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SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


IN 


WASHINGTON 


BY EZRA MEEKER 


AUTHOR OF “WASHINGTON TERRITORY WEST OF THE CASCADE 
MOUNTAINS,” “HOP CULTURE IN THE UNITED STATES,” 
“PIONEER REMINISCENCES OF PUGET SOUND,” 

“THE TRAGEDY OF LESCHE? “THE: Ox 
TEAM,” “EIGHTY-FIVE YEARS 


OF A BUSY LIFE,” “PIO- , 
NEER’S STORIES FOR 
CHILDREN.” 


SEATTLE, WASHINGTON 
1921 





Copyright 1921 by 
EZRA MEEKER 


Published December, 1921 








ALLSTRUM PRINTING COMPANY 
Tacoma, Washington 


ACKNOWLEDGEMENT 


Y acknowledgement is due to Maurice 
Fitz Gerald for the three fine stories 
of Indian Wars of Washington, of 

which he was a part as scout with General 
O. O. Howard and for other material and in 
securing and compiling data for this work; 
to Clarence B. Bagley for his advice and 
information supplied; to the management 
and employees of the Seattle Public Library 
in their effort to lighten my personal labors 
in searching out historical facts and com- 
piling them ready for my use; to several 
state officers—all to whom I applied—for 
valuable data; to Geo. N. Salisbury of the 
U. S. weather Bureau department for the 
complete tables of temperature and rainfall 
as far back as observations had been taken 
and, finally to hundreds of friends—past the 
thousand mark — who by their advance 
orders encouraged the incurring of so heavy 
an expense putting on the work at a time 
of such high cost of printing. 


TABLE OF ILLUSTRATIONS 





Opposite Page 


Seventy Years of Progress in Washington....Frontispiece 


TNSCription s Pare. ee ceca eee, nee 5 
Ezra Meeker and Oliver Meeker .........................------- 19 
WmMancipators! | veialni ON Res Aa ee Uo ea ee ee 152 
Harvest ee ee UA ead teenie hea ce een ee 182 
A -Modern2Washington) Dalry. cae eee 203 
Orchards ol) Washington i see 207 
Grapes ANG Pears i eae oe aioe ae eae eed eee 211 
AUBerryield ol) WaSDINO COM cree ee cece 218 
Apples. ‘and’ Peachesw.28.t) cen no 2 ees 215 
SWIMS ee oer cue acetate ee 249 
Tim ber soi WAS GIN Stone ae ew. ieee oe, een 253 
AVIBCION) ete Re ee ae ei EE 2 eee 313 
0) Sa tlied BOIS oh teas Rl en LM hha eee mu OR Lean LAr No 349 
Maurice FitzGerald i020, ipeecenetier, 0) cee ae pes 351 
Ci eto sua WOT ree il ac My See eee cece re naan 367 
ONTO.) OSED Ta pitee ee aa ca ee coe te nara ere 370 


The Oxteam Expedition (11 Illustrations) ..Back of Book 


Table of Contents 





CHAPTER I. 
et cV ee FUMBLE) Oh oa UI RARE se IEE er! aa a EL ed OPE 11 
CHAPTER II. 
Pe LOA TIC ZOUNCY me CALISUICS iekelaed ne eee wedi 20 
CHAPTER III. 
PORE LIGVELODINGN Uwe ci areca actey cob eage sec raconue vat eas 23 
CHAPTER IV. 
MRAMSUDOLCLALION TANG LLAVGL iy) iy woes ae uranic HEMEL. 35 
CHAPTER V. 
MERTON OWAEY-OL Mises deh aly ach ce nese sc eye cast besten cete 48 
CHAPTER VI. 
OLAV COTN ESD OCIS AAI LNB dae mts eV EA Gay VR MB WS ew 55 
CHAPTER VII. 
bik CS uo ge (3 Gok Wa) a heen Ory A tle ean oui a ata ea bY eI, Site 66 
CHAPTER VIII. 
PRE CATICN DE unt ote Ne Uy Lene Ue Laue i ae) 712 
CHAPTER IX. 
eek Ta Yad Ep eee aha pita eae A A a ce gi) a nas ei eae YS 76 
CHAPTER X. 
TMV ITILVETSIL VS oid wiles lieu atebrrdeedtan At tat ant. te dakts 85 
CHAPTER XI. 
Wy Heninio cone Slates COHCQC fier eretests aver teccon verses ahi 92 
CHAPTER XII. 
PP LOMITISGIELILIOTIS ee cetc tte Peter ice ada saas Cols ear tewtena sd bags 98 
CHAPTER XIII. 
Cenc) a) ANWR 0 O50 ol Toy eer amatiaer ya gey ae appar tebcane Mab te Ae ie ans ae 108 


PACE SMEPICOLICS AF eee hep etacs ia ea RN NEU Spr orentannes ccnp abate 114 


VIII. CONTENTS 


CHAPTER XV. 


American® Red si Cross}. cee ttc ek pee: eee Lig 
CHAPTER XVI. 
Kniohts)ol) Columbus) io) Ae eee 128 
CHAPTER XVII. 
SAIVATION PATI Y (uc eS Ae 134 
CHAPTER XVIII. 
OMIM Go tA sean iy eV AG) Cn eo 0U a ee nee 138 
CHAPTER XIX. 
INTIPSIM ONS Ce CUA eS ale ve PL a CMe Se eee 142 
CHAPTER XxX. 
Prohibition oe ae oe ee ed 145 
CHAPTER XXI. 
POMancipation yf ee I mp a ease 150 
CHAPTER XXII. 
Inventions and) Discoveries’). ea eee 160 
CHAPTER XXIII. 
land Of) Milk ‘and Honey eee es ree 169 
CHAPTER XXIV. 
Back) tor the army Wee ype sO ee 174 
CHAPTER XXV. 
BETTI CUE T Coen eee eae ee eee ee eee i ae act cda ey Meee ee 180 
CHAPTER XXVI. 
Dairies; and Condensaries i300 cs ee eae eee 203 
CHAPTER XXVII. 
Horticulture yh Oe ee | a ee ee 207 
CHAPTER XXVIII 
bo clio] Eb te: 1 af MENON ARETE OMI A NEN mere I i 216 
CHAPTER XXIX. 
Dorved-Om lands a ees ie cence ened ae 220 


ATTA ALTON ee) a i Ed CMa Oa ee en 225 


CONTENTS IX. 


CHAPTER XXXI. 


NU MLOr OT OWEDN ecm One Lt aaa eC AN UT yee ty 2 
CHAPTER XXXII. 
MEATUS ACLU OS ee eed. ANIM LSS Ca NS Ls 246 
CHAPTER XXXIII. 
ALD AGEL YS) yee Ueeh a kdap ae CR Le Sp AAEM OA AILS lf SAREE RNG eee 253 
CHAPTER XXXIV. 
VETIVER VEN AGN CRRA eel CU UENNED EY PRE DARA | (0 se DUA | 266 
CHAPTER XXXV. 
CCEA | AILS 1 ao EE ANU ICH Ra Ny RAE a BA Ug 272 
CHAPTER XXXVI. 
PUT STGRI OM rer parr Late) en NAL aI GLOGS BA LO eee MeN MAREN’ HE Eh 278 
CHAPTER XXXVII. 
rn emanciienin pilin ean ctr prec Mts wie! Ngee ay 9 hi 236 
CHAPTER XXXVIII. 
CE PLRNM CEN C2 GEE | Rep autre Niel MORTON ARES ali A Anh EL Bila ed COE AU 297 
CHAPTER XXXIX. 
(EA Ret ep a lol SH a yg 108) RET A ar Aso Oy Ae Se laren a ONE MEAS UN Ae AR oe 306 
CHAPTER XL. 
[Netg CURT AN Tg Tag te A OPO) ae AT CCS AS CUR Se AUER Cte DLL OEY 310 
CHAPTER XL 
PLS SPE ae met eu rd Ra Nm Mar OL ASEAN G CELL MSU de 320 
CHAPTER XLII. 
Pcidents. On tie! OLegOn Wa LAL yeu Cth, ce ued sy uae 329 
CHAPTER XLIII. 
PUVETEOR TTA TARTS Cor neler ke RE ARR EUS NL ALU TN 345 
CHAPTER XLIV 
PETAL AUT WVGEAT Sante ae ee) MTU a ORCI at gd 351 
FIallerise REET tice L eee el al 351 
STETTOC IS LIOL Cen ices tere NRRL Rely eee Sune al 359 
Chieti osepn a Campalonwers once ue 370 


CHAPTER XLV: 
“Washington Territory West of the Cascades” Addendum 


GREETINGS! 
N THIS, my ninety-first birthday and 


publication date of this volume, with 

thankfulness in my heart for the many 
blessings vouchsafed to me by Divine Provi- 
dence, with good health and cheerfulness of 
mind, I extend this greeting to friends and 
strangers alike; to the few Comrades of “Ye 
olden time” left in this mundane sphere and to 
the generations that have followed in the suc- 
cession of years. 


That world conditions are different than 
when I first saw the light of day 91 years ago, 
or when Washington was created, (now so 
near 70 years ago), or even 5O years, within 
the memory of many now living in our midst 
is only evidence of the inscrutable ways of 
Providence measuring the cycles of time for 
the betterment of the race. 


In acknowledging that conditions are 
better; that the average comforts of life are 
greater; that the march of the nations toward 
a higher civilization has advanced; that altru- 
ism is more prevalent; that happenings of the 
races has progressed and improving, is only 
an acknowledgement of divine power. That 
there may come a time when crime in the 
world will cease; when war between nations 
shall be no more; when suffering will have 
disappeared, all ardently wish even to the 
point of a hope. 


Realizing we have a duty to perform un- 
der God’s overruling providence; that each has 
in his power to better world conditions; that 
we are instruments in the hands of God to 
carry forward His plan, let us all accept the re- 
sponsibility with cheerfulness and joy and strive 
for the upbuilding and happiness of the race. 


EZRA MEEKER 


CHAPTER I. 
REMINISCENT 


“Oh, that mine enemy should write a book.” 


Writing a Book at 90—What to Name It—Crossed the_Plains 
Nearly 70 Years Ago—In Washington Ever Since—Decision 
Arrived at—“Washington’s 70 Years of Progress” —Cabin on 
the Majestic Columbia—Food Prices Sky High—Whisky 
Alone Cheap—Cry of Cougar Heard at Night—Catching 
Saw Logs Brought Down by Freshet—Made Good at it— 
Location not Satisfactory—Decided on Moving to Sound. 


Well, here I am in my ninety-first year, writing a 
book. An enemy has no terrors for me, however much 
I may regret ill-feeling on the part of anyone, as, in the 
natural course of events, I shall soon be called to another 
sphere of action; but in this sunshine of ninety years 
of life I owe no man a grudge, and from outward ap- 
pearance, no one holds aught against me. 


“And what are you going to name your book?” I 
am asked. A gifted authoress once told me that she 
had never selected a title until the book was written, 
and then fitted the title to the subject matter in the 
book. I couldn’t do that if I would, and what’s more, 
I wouldn’t if I could. I must have a definite mark to 
shoot at; some objective point to concentrate upon; 
some push behind to urge me on. The authoress is 
undoubtedly right from her point of view, but that will 
not serve me. So, I have selected a title in advance 
of the writing. 


Things were very different when I was born, ninety 
years ago, from what they are in the world today. I 
have had in mind to write of affairs in my life of ninety 
years. Bearing in mind that ten years of my boyhood 


be SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


days did not impress me like later years, and that to a 
considerable extent my intention is to bear personal 
testimony where possible toward the correct relation of 
events, I could not conclude to name the whole period 
of my life as a part of the title. Then to what extent 
shall I curtail the time, as I had determined to write of 
one theme, “Progress”; and what territory should I 
cover? Shall I undertake to cover the world’s progress? 
Or, only the United States? Neither of these suited my 
fancy, in fact, each loomed up as such a big job that 
my resolution quailed. Anyway, that was not what I 
had had in mind. 


Nearly seventy years ago I had come out on the 
Plains with an ox-team, accompanied by a precious 
young wife and the finest baby boy in the world (our 
opinion, you know) bound for the Oregon country. 
I was young then, not yet twenty-two, full of ambition; 
and by the way, have some left yet. My wife was not 
yet twenty, but full of confidence in the future; the 
baby boy but eight weeks old when we crossed the 
Missouri River, but better natured than his father had 
been reported to be when a “brat,” as one woman (I 
won't call her lady) once called me to my mother’s face. 
Well, as I said, we thought ours was the finest, cutest 
baby in all the world. Why, we had not been on the 
road long till my wife would put a blanket on the 
ground, right on the dirty ground, mind you, and dump 
the baby on it and leave him there while she got the 
camp supper; it was not long till he would roll around 
and actually suck his thumb. We thought it was the 
funniest thing in all the world. Well, that’s the way 
with all young parents, I guess. 


The crossing of the Missouri River and crossing 
the Plains to the Oregon country was a great event in 
my life, following closely on the greater event of a 
happy marriage before I had reached the twenty-first 
year of my life. Why not affix the date of my writing 
to these two great events? That didn’t yet seem satis- 
factory; it was too personal; besides, it was not what 


REMINISCENT 13 


had been running in my mind when the thought of 
writing presented itself. 


We had reached the Oregon country in safety, some- 
what reduced in strength, and for myself, the loss of 
twenty pounds in weight; but our ambition remained 
with us. 


We had come to the Oregon country to get a farm 
such as Uncle Sam then gave to settlers, one hundred 
and sixty acres each, to man and wife, separate owner- 
ship, and the first thing to look after was to find the 
land. 


If the reader will take the trouble to look at the 
frontispiece, he will there see a cabin pictured (No. 
7). That is an exact picture of the cabin we built on 
the spot where Kalama town now stands, on the right 
bank of the Columbia River, about forty miles distant 
from Portland, Oregon. 


In a few weeks after we had got under shelter in 
our cabin, another child was born. Congress named it 
Washington Territory, and lo and behold, we were not 
living in Oregon, but in the new Territory! Another 
great event! Here we were, with our fortunes cast 
with the destiny of a new State, although at the time 
but two persons, with a fraction over (whites, I mean, 
for there were fifteen thousand Indians), to a town- 
ship of land of thirty-six sections—23,040 acres—vir- 
tually an uninhabitated country, of a verity (surety) 
at the beginning. We loved the very thought of that 
child, remained with it in its long territorial minority, 
rejoiced when it was clothed with State Manhood thirty- 
six years later, and are yet here when nearly two million 
people occupy the space where less than four thousand 
could be counted at the beginning. Here, now, was 
another great event in one’s life. Not a single indi- 
vidual, save possibly one other adult, who was here at 
that time, is left but myself; all gone to their long 
home; the generation of that day has passed and a 
majority of a second called, and lo and behold, I am 


14 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


left! Why, I thought, that’s the date; take the three 
great events, averaging the dates and rounding the 
numbers for convenience, and call it seventy and we 
have the key to the title, “Washington’s Seventy Years 
of Progress.” 


In the fac-simile copy of my first book, reproduced 
and bound under this cover, entitled “Washington Terri- 
tory West of the Cascade Mountains,” the reader will 
find the boundaries defined of that portion of the State 
lying West of the Mountains named in the title; also 
in the same book a description and boundary of the 
eastern part and remainder of the State, from the pen 
of Philip Ritz. A history of this book and interesting 
events connected with its publication will be related 
later. 


For the present, we must go back to the cabin ‘‘where 
rolls the Oregon,” a majestic River more than a mile 
wide, and a channel deep enough for what we thought 
at the time, great ships to navigate, drawing 
eighteen feet of water—a mighty River indeed! We 
discovered that at intervals the current ceased to flow 
down stream and sometimes would go the other way. 
We had always been taught that water wouldn’t run 
up hill, but here it did, or at least appeared to, for 
the current would run up-river way. Some mysterious 
power, seventy miles distant at the mouth of the river, 
met the down-river current; the rush of the ocean 
tides, piled up the contending currents of water till 
the mastery rested with the sea and the flow of the 
river water checked, and as I have said, turned up- 
river way. 


The fire on the cabin hearth burned bright and 
cheerful, albeit things around about us didn’t seem so 
bright. A deep snow had fallen in December. The 
price of cattle feed went up sky-high; in fact, one 
might say, couldn’t be bought for love or money. We 
had to give up our last and favorite cow to save the 
last yoke of oxen; flour sold at fifty dollars a barrel, 


REMINISCENT 15 


potatoes, three dollars a bushel—everything high except 
whisky, and that we didn’t want. I had never drunk 
the stuff but once and that was when I was a boy 
eight years old. Some brute or fool had discovered 
myself and two other boys playing in the basement 
of a mill at Lockland, Ohio, and gave us some whisky 
to drink. We didn’t know what it was, but soon 
began to feel funny, then ugly and fell to fighting near 
a great big pile of bran, got down in the bran and got 
our eyes and ears full of it. Father found me in this 
fix, took me up to the top story of the mill and gave 
me a good trouncing, as he called it—beating, as I 
thought of it, and sent me home. I don’t remember 
that he had ever struck me before and I am sure he 
never did afterwards. My! but didn’t my blood boil 
with indignation; I hadn’t intended doing anything 
wrong—didn’t know any better, and then to be beaten 
for it—well, it sobered me off and I ran home as fast 
as my legs could carry me, to my mother. The tender 
stroke of my mother’s hands to my torn heart; the 
tears that dropped from her eyes on my hands, made 
such a lasting impression upon my mind that I never 
forgot it. But I will write about this whisky business 
and of the progress made by the adoption of that 
righteous act—Prohibition, later. 


But let us get back to the cabin. It was the first 
home we ever owned. We had not “kept house,” in 
Indiana and had been a year on the road, simply 
sojourned in Iowa for the winter; hence it is small 
wonder that we clung to the cabin in a restful mood 
with the hope that we might find it a permanent home. 


The cabin stood about a hundred yards back from 
the river, just above the river bottom, and on the 
rather steep slope of a solid, rocky bank, with a door 
and projecting roof on the river view end, and with 
three or four rather steep steps to reach the floor level. 
The side walls of the cabin were barely high enough 
to enable us to stand up straight inside when the roof 


16 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


was on; the clapboard roof protected us from the rain 
and served as ceiling above our heads, while the ridge- 
poles served in the place of a closet where extra 
articles, when not in use, might be stored. At the 
back end, a low cobble-stone chimney served to keep 
the inner cabin clear of smoke from the cheerful fire 
that not only warmed the cabin, but likewise served 
as the kitchen range, without cover, upon which to 
cook the simple food, and to provide light as well. 


We had graded into the hill a little for the rear end 
of the cabin, so that, with the rise of the hillside next 
to the chimney, one could look down to the fire below 
without craning his neck. 


On several occasion, of nights, we heard noises, not 
like the howl of a wolf, but more like the scream of a 
frightened woman, which we thought, and I think so 
yet,—-was a cougar prowling in the brush and timber 
near by. The little wife became uneasy, fearing the 
“thing”? might come down the chimney, but I quieted 
her fears by claiming there was no more danger of 
that than that Santa Claus as pictured, would come that 
way. Afterwards, I learned that these animals were 
dangerous when pressed by hunger and that a child 
had been killed by one. Anyway, I would prefer to 
have a good stout cabin wall between me and one of 
them than to meet it in open combat, as did one of our 
pioneers, a Mr. Stocking, who, be it said, killed his 
antagonist in a hand to hand fight. 


The furniture, all home-made, consisted of a table 
made of some drift lumber, picked up in the Columbia 
River, stools instead of chairs, a folding bed with 
wooden hinges near the floor, to close up against the 
wall during the day. Moss between the logs, closely 
packed (caulked will express it), served to keep gusts 
of wind out and confine the heat of the fire to keep the 
cabin warm and comfortable, albeit the roof supplied 
abundance of ventilation. 


REMINISCENT 17 


The site upon which this cabin stood is but a little 
over a stone’s throw from where the Northern Pacific 
Railroad depot at Kalama now stands. The cabin has 
long since disappeared, but I can yet identify the spot 
upon which it stood. 


We had taken this squatter claim from sheer neces- 
sity to secure a place where I could provide a roof 
over our heads and shelter from the storms then pre- 
vailing (January 1853), not because the location suited 
us; it was far below the ideals pictured in our imagi- 
nation when preparing to leave Indiana in search of a 
Western home. We could not go further at the time. 
The trip across the plains with the ox and cow team 
had exhausted our scant accumulations, and so with 
cheerful submission to necessity, the claim was taken, 
the cabin built and clearing land begun. 


Soon after, a dire calamity overtook the pioneers 
of the up-river region. The snow melted rapidly, accom- 
panied by warm rains; the floods came; the Columbia 
River became a vast field of driftwood, parts of houses, 
hay stacks, lumber, sawlogs, in a word, something of all 
kinds of property imaginable. 


We, (when I say we now I mean myself, brother 
and an Indiana neighbor boy) instantly sailed out in 
our small boat, catching saw logs and towing them into 
a place of safety, working even by moonlight as well 
as all day—no eight or five hours a day there. When 
the flood subsided we tackled giant trees that stood 
near the water’s edge and handlogged for a month to 
supplement our drift logs, when lo and behold, we 
finished with Eight Hundred Dollars in our pockets, 
and I had money enough to go to Puget Sound. 


Now, I have been purposely personal in this nar- 
rative, because I could in no other way illustrate what 
pioneer life meant at that particular time. Many other 
pioneers had a like experience and could have told a 
similar story, but nearly all have joined the majority in 
the unknown mysterious life. 


18 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


But just now, let us take a further peep into pioneer 
life in the cabin. We had left the great Mississippi 
Valley with its wonderful fertile prairies, its vast extent 
then sparsely inhabited, to go to the Oregon country, 
yet a land of mystery—unexplored, uninhabited, one 
might almost say. The same might be said of Iowa. 
I remember one bitter cold day of the winter of 1851-52 
of traveling thirty-five miles between cabins, in the 
western part of Iowa,—a long stretch of rich, unoccu- 
pied land that held no attractions for me, as I wanted 
to get out to where ships could “go down into the sea,” 
not to be a sailor or to follow the sea, but to be out. 
accessible to the great wide world. We did not for 
an instant give up the resolution that we were going 
to the Oregon country to be farmers, which resolution 
by the way, we steadily adhered to, as the sequel will 
show; but here now, as we looked out of the cabin 
window, what did we see? A stony hillside skirting 
the valley; a narrow valley covered with forest and 
brush, subject to overflow in front; great forests of 
giant timber, and in the nearby surroundings of the 
cabin, utterly precluding the thought of neighboring 
farms in the future; no neighbors nearer than three 
miles; no road; nothing, in a word, that we had 
pictured in our own minds to find. I had practiced 
deceit with my wife in assuming a cheerfulness I did not 
feel; I came to know that she on her part, was doing 
the same thing; but this could not go on always, so one 
day we made a confession, and whether manly or wom- 
anly or not, turned loose our disappointment in tears and 
soon felt the better for it. 


A week after the “confession,” accompanied by my 
brother Oliver, we struck the trail for Puget Sound, 
: with the sky as our roof, Mother earth as our bed, 
sweet sleep as our comforter and a keen appetite to add 
pleasure to the trip. Pleasure did you say? I can 
imagine some readers inquiringly exclaim. Yes, real 
genuine pleasure. I could sleep as soundly as if on a 
bed of down; enjoy a rest denied the sluggards or lag- 





G¢ LV YUAAITO WHALOUE 66 LV YAMHHW Vaz 





REMINISCENT 19 


gards searching for soft jobs. Nature was putting on 
her best new dress for it was spring time; the flowers 
shone bright; the silver tips on the evergreen trees 
brighter, like the home Christmas tree; the snow-capped 
mountains in the distance and no less fascinating snow- 
covered mountain ranges in sight. The deep toned 
hoot of the grouse answering the call of his mate, the 
thrumming of the pheasant like to the roll of distant 
thunder, all lent irresistible charm to the scene to draw 
one’s mind from the fatigue of the trail. Then the 
everlasting, never-ending green of the forests; the sub- 
dued, variegated verdure of the carpet beneath; the 
moss, the ferns, the budding wild fruit; the fragrance 
of the primeval forests, combined to enhance the pleas- 
ures of the scene. 


I have never regretted that trip to the sound, the 
result of which the reader, if possessed of patience to 
follow the thread of the “Progress of Washington,” 
will know, as all subsequent years of my life have 
been identified with the territory and state, from the 
beginning. 


CHAPTER II. 


STATE AND COUNTY STATISTICS 


First Governor of Territory Appointed—Arrived November 25th, 
1858—Heavy Responsibilities on His Shoulders—Less Than 
4,000 Eligible for Citizenship—Election Ordered—Legis- 
lature Convened February, 1854—Creation of Counties Begun 
—Continued to Present Time—39 Now—Pend Orielle Last 
Created—Table of Statistics. 


The appointment of a Governor and full complement 
of territorial officers quickly followed the passage of 
the act creating the territory, but the organization was 
delayed for nearly a year awaiting the arrival of the 
Governor. The appointee, Isaac I. Stevens, had been 
loaded down with responsibilities. He was charged 
with the duty to reconnoiter (survey, we pioneers called 
it) the northern zone to determine the feasibility of 
constructing a railroad from the Great Lakes to the 
new territory and did not arrive at the capital until 
November 25th, 1853. He was also charged with the 
responsibility of making treaties with the Indians. 
His first duty, that of making the survey, resulted in a 
grand work; a monument to his energy and ability to 
perform the duty assigned to him. 


A census had been taken developing the fact of 
there being less than four thousand people entitled to 
citizenship within the borders of the territory (less 
than two to the township). 


An election was immediately ordered and on the 
twenty-seventh of February, 1854, a legislature con- 
vened and the territory became a live political unit in 
fact as well as in name. 


STATE AND COUNTY STATISTICS 21 


A potent, and we may almost say a determining fac- 
tor, that resulted in the division of the Oregon country, 
into two territories was the great difficulty of reaching 
the capital. It seems now, bordering on the ridiculous 
to create a territorial government where there were 
scarcely citizens enough to fill all the offices. Doubt- 
less there existed a dominating political reason causing 
the central government to lend a willing ear to the 
proposition of creating a new territory in the fact 
there were ‘More political pegs than holes” and such a 
move would supply many new “holes.” After all, it 
transpired the move proved to be a wise one. 


While the division lessened the difficulties and delays 
of reaching the capital, there still remained the hazard 
oftentimes of long detention. At the close of the first 
legislature one of the brightest members lost his life 
almost in sight of Seattle by the swamping of the canoe 
in which he was traveling on his return from Olympia. 
In fact, at that time, there was no other way he could 
travel from the capital to his home in Seattle. No 
roads were opened parallel with the Sound; no ferries 
established on the two dangerous rivers to be crossed; 
no passenger boats of any kind on the Sound and no 
alternative existed other than to accept the hazard of 
a winter trip in a canoe. It is different now as the 
reader will see by turning to other chapters of this 
volume. 


The creation of new counties by the first legislature 
began at once and has been continued intermittently 
until the State is divided into thirty-nine; the last, Pend 
Oreille, March 1, 1911. 


By scanning the table following, the reader can at 
a glance, see the name, date of organization, area and 
population in decades from date of organization as 
reported by the U. S. census. 


SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


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CHAPTER IIL. 


RAILROAD DEVELOPMENT 


Beginning of Railroading in the U. S.—Almost Contemporaneous 
With Birth of Author—Opposition Encountered at First— 
The Days of the Stage Coach—Plans Advanced for Building 
of Railroad to Coast—The N. P. Most Important for De- 
velopment—Opposition from Both California and Oregon— 
In June, 1870, First Work Begun—Meeting With Jay Cooke 
in New York—Road Financed—Development in Washing- 
ton—Slow at First—Serious Obstacles Encountered—First 
R. R. in State—Columbia River and Puget Sound Road 
Completed—Great Development in Later Years—Network of 
Roads Now in State—Hlectric Roads—Great Possibilities 
in Future. 


In as important a subject as that of railroads to be 
considered in this chapter, it is permissible to go back 
of the arbitrary date of seventy years to get a perfect 
retrospective view from the beginning, a little over 
ninety years, and note its growth from infancy. 


As stated elsewhere in this volume, the beginning 
of railroads in the United States dates about the year 
1827 when the idea first seized upon the minds of our 
forbears to transport freight on cars to run on a con- 
tinuous track. This idea soon expanded to carrying 
passengers as well and the foundation was laid for the 
great development that followed. I may almost say I 
was born contemporaneously with the birth of railroads 
(1827-1830) in the United States and have the unique 
experience vouchsafed to but few of having witnessed 
the whole transformation of world affairs and particu- 
larly of the United States because of it. As already 
noted, for two decades and even longer a very pro- 
nounced opposition to the building of railroads was 
manifest. As a boy and as a lad in my “teens” I 


24 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


often heard excited controversy on the subject, but like 
the opposition to the introduction of labor saving ma- 
chines it finally disappeared. Of course the first track 
and cars were very crude affairs and fit subjects for 
condemnation for other reasons than for destroying 
the wagoner’s business and closing the roadside inns all 
along the line. Quite recently (1915) I drove along 
the line of the old National road (known also as the 
Cumberland road) from Washington city to the near 
vicinity of St. Louis and drank in the scenes of the 
old stage stations; and could all but imagine hearing 
the horn to note the arrival; see the hurry and scurry 
to unhitch and hitch the four or six-in-hand; hear the 
fading sound of the grating wheels as they turned 
the last corner. The remains of these stations are 
there yet where the roaring fire crackled and sent 
forth good cheer, too often to be supplemented by 
the contents of the decanter; where statesmen, on their 
way to and from the Capital, tarried, slept and ate; 
where the news of the day posted within served instead 
of newspapers of today; where stories of frontier life 
were exchanged, stories of heroism and suffering, of 
altruism, of merriment to gladden the pioneer heart. 
Small wonder the pioneers of that day were loath 
to give up the joys of the stage coach for the jolting 
railway carriage of early experience. 


The stage coach disappeared from the Cumberland 
road only to appear again in greater glory under more 
trying and dangerous surroundings on the Plains of the 
then West as a forerunner of the railroad soon to follow 
—opening the way for the irrepressible unrelenting 
movement West. The introduction of the stage coach 
into Washington was an adventure following the ox 
teams of the pioneers who came braving an element 
of danger; both paving the way for the greater financial 
hazard of the railroad. 


The Northern Pacific Railroad though not the first 
in point of time built within the borders of the terri- 
tory, easily became the most important in the develop- 


RAILROAD DEVELOPMENT 25 


ment of the embryo state. The earliest mention of a 
projected transcontinental railroad of which there is 
any record was by a Dr. Samuel Bancroft Barlow in 
1834, advocating the building of a road over the North- 
ern Pacific route. He must have been a man of vision 
as he used the identical arguments later put forward 
immediately preceding the building, and assembled facts 
that would seem incredible in view of the developments 
in railroad building prior to that date. Then came Dr. 
Parker, the Missionary, predicting in 1835 the building 
of a railroad over the same route as he followed the route 
of the Oregon trail in company with Marcus Whitman 
through the South Pass to the rendezvous at Ft. Bridger. 


Then followed Asa Whitney in 1846, again using 
the same arguments for a railroad from Lake Michigan 
to Puget Sound; shortest route; lightest snow; continu- 
ous soil suitable for settlement; tapping the Oriental 
trade, etc., familiar talk heard later. Whitney spent 
a fortune and seven years of effort to get a land 
grant, failed and died in poverty. 


At a railroad convention held in St. Louis (1849), 
participated in by Stephen A. Douglas and other prom- 
inent men in which Whitney’s map was used describing 
the route from Chicago to Council Bluff, through the 
South Pass, over the Cascade Mountains to Fort Nis- 
qually on Puget Sound; but the vehement Benton’s 
attention was arrested and we then first heard a south- 
ern route mentioned. 


One more adventurer, a Dr. Carter, in 1848 or 
1849 rushed to the front to secure a charter for a 
railroad from Lake Michigan by way of the South 
Pass to San Francisco with a branch to the mouth of 
the Columbia River. His career was short lived and 
nothing came of his effort. 


It is well to note that all these projects of a trans- 
continental line looked to the South Pass (the Oregon 
trail route over the Rocky Mountains) known then and 


26 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


ever since admitted to be the most feasible route across 
this formidable barrier. Then why did not the Union 
Pacific, the first continental road, build through this 
pass, the reader will ask. I met General Dodge, chief 
engineer of the road—who pointed the way—at Council 
Bluffs, Iowa, in 1911, a few years before his death, 
and asked him this same question. General Dodge 
informed me he did recommend building the road 
through the South Pass but was over-ruled by the 
directorate because of the discovery of coal south of 
the pass and the line was located to reach the coal 
fields, though admittedly over a less favorable through 
route. 


When I last saw General Dodge he was a very old 
man, yet stood erect and with his mental faculties unim- 
paired. He talked freely of this episode and seemed 
to regret that he had been overruled, believing that a 
branch line to the coal fields would have been a better 
solution of this important matter. The General came 
out in company with many others to join the group in 
the moving picture scene on the streets of Council 
Bluffs, with my Oregon trail ox team outfit, just arrived 
from the Pacific Coast, in the background. The film 
is deposited in the Washington State historical room 
at Tacoma with the wagon, also the oxen mounted. 


An eminent engineer, Edwin F. Johnson, through a 
long investigation ending in 1853 advocated a route from 
Lake Michigan via Fort Colville to Bellingham. John- 
son made the fatal mistake of laying his information 
before Jeff Davis, then Secretary of War, who imme- 
diately formed a combination of Southern Leaders all 
agreed that no railroad should be built to the Pacific, 
north of the 35th parallel. The discovery of gold in 
California brought speedy developments overshadowing 
the Oregon country in population and wealth, giving 
statehood and votes in Congress and presented a barrier 
for a Northern line that could not be overcome for 
many long years. So long as California could prevent 
the building of a Northern line direct to the East, 


RAILROAD DEVELOPMENT 2E 


just so long could she hold the trade of the North 
country, and held Oregon and Washington firmly in 
her grip until the Northern Pacific line was built to 
the Oregon railroad connection; then Oregon took the 
place of California as far as Washington was concerned, 
throttled direct trade to the East as far as possible 
and secured all of the trade from the Eastern half of 
Washington, appropriated the profits of the whole 
transcontinental line by the unconscionable rates charged 
on the short line through the Columbia river gap and 
held the Northern Pacific in its grip and at the mercy 
of the Oregon interests. 


Encouraged by their success the management came 
out boldly against the direct line to Puget Sound over 
the Cascade Mountains but reckoned without their 
hosts as the sequel shows. 


Next in order came the so-called survey by Isaac 
I. Stevens, in 1853—reconnaisance—under Government 
authority, demonstrating the feasibility of the Northern 
route and raising high hopes of a speedy construction 
of the road. Finally in 1864 the congress granted a 
charter and a land grant of twenty alternate sections 
on each side of the line in States and forty in terri- 
tories to the Northern Pacific Company along the line 
substantially as outlined by Governor Stevens upon 
which the road was finally built. Congress had pre- 
viously granted lands and guarantee of bonds to the 
Union and Central Pacific for a line from the Missouri 
River to San Francisco but refused to go further than 
to grant lands to the Northern Pacific. Political and 
local jealousy combined contributed to this result. The 
slave power as before mentioned had opposed any meas- 
ure in congress looking toward giving aid to a Northern 
line; then came the specious plea that one transcon- 
tinental line would suffice to accommodate the trade for 
many decades. So long as the Southern interests could 
defeat or delay the building of a Northern line, so long 
the San Francisco interests could control the Northern 
trade. And so it went from decade to decade, dis- 


28 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


appointment following disappointment until forty years 
elapsed from the time the first company was formed 
to build over the Northern Pacific route before the 
final completion of the road during the year 1887, when 
the last spike was driven on the Cascade division direct 
to Puget Sound over the Cascade mountains. 


In June of 1870, at a point named “‘Thomson’s Junc- 
tion” in the State of Minnesota, a few miles northwest 
of Duluth (then but a village on the shores of Lake 
Superior) construction work was begun. In common 
parlance the line began nowhere and ended nowhere. 
In blissful ignorance of what was happening in the far 
East a syndicate of 83 pioneers were gathering their 
resources to meet the printing bill for the book “‘Wasz- 
ington Territory West of the Cascade Mountains’. On 
my part about twice a month for the summer I would 
gather my manuscript and data together and “Strike 
out” for Olympia, a walk of thirty-five miles. I can 
truly say they were pleasant walks—walks of abstrac- 
tion, hence one might almost say without fatigue. As 
before written I had entered upon the work with reluc- 
tance: I did not believe myself competent to do justice 
to the subject; with scant school days I knew the 
difficulty that would beset me. To my surprise as the 
work progressed, the syndicates committee began to 
commend the effort in such extravagant language that 
caused me to almost distrust their candor. As the 
“Little book’, as we were wont to call it, is reproduced . 
and bound within the cover of this volume, each reader 
must judge for himself or herself as to its merits or 
demerits. For six years after congress granted the 
charter promoters struggled to obtain funds to warrant 
undertaking construction work and ignominiously failed. 


Finally Jay Cooke appeared on the field, or rather 
the discouraged promoters sought him out to assemble 
the funds necessary to construct the line, estimated at 
a hundred million dollars. It was at this juncture 
I met Mr. Cooke in New York as related elsewhere. 
After a short season in New England I hastened to 


RAILROAD DEVELOPMENT 29 


Philadelphia and entered into the campaign of publicity, 

.not only to advertise the railroad securities but all the 
territory adjacent to the route including our own terri- 
tory of Washington and Puget Sound in particular. 
Mr. Cooke, in taking over all my books and paying a 
liberal price for them, jocularly remarked they could 
not tolerate competition in advertising the Northwest 
and upon my arrival in Philadelphia assigned me a 
desk in the second story above the bank saying, in 
lighter vein, he had no room for volunteers; in other 
words I would be placed on the pay-roll of their adver- 
tising department. After my experience in New York 
and New England and now in Philadelphia, the world 
seemed bigger than I had thought of it in my pioneer- 
ing experience in a region of scant population, or per- 
haps it might be more accurate to say of my own little- 
ness, but Mr. Cooke’s demeanor reassured me to think 
of myself as a cog in the wheel of the great machinery 
of life. 


The six printing presses were running (the same, 
I was told with pride, that turned off the advertising 
matter for the United States bonds during the war 
of the rebellion) that had saved the Government from 
bankruptcy and had won the war, printing advertising 
matter of the proposed railroad and the country through 
which it ran. Each day, and sometimes twice a day, 
a truck carried off to the Post Office a load of this, a 
ton weight some days or even more; eleven hundred 
newspapers were carrying advertisements of the great 
project, many with editorials supplied from the room 
above the bank. I was bid to “make myself at home” 
and as the spirit moved me to write correspondence 
as from Olympia on Puget Sound or in form of editor- 
ials for papers. Mr. Cooke frequently would send for 
me to meet intending investors in his office, sometimes 
to be looked upon as a curiosity, sometimes as a martyr 
having been buried “out there” away from civilization 
for twenty years, yet always with genuine, civil treat- 
ment by both ladies and gentlemen, for both thronged 


30 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


the office at times. At the receiving windows of the 
bank two grey headed tellers were counting in the_ 
money in payment for bonds—tellers I was told who 
had grown grey in Mr. Cooke’s employ—whom I often 
met in the capacious dining room in the basement of 
the bank where all employees were invited guests for a 
lunch (a good dinner I called it) large enough to seat 
sixty or more persons. With three full tables, all the 
employees of the bank, a jolly merry crowd, turned loose 
as boisterous as ever a lot of school children at play. 
The call at Mr. Cooke’s office referred to gave me an 
accurate insight into the policy of the company as Mr. 
Cooke spoke with great candor to inquiring visitors. The 
work he said was begun on the Columbia River that 
the terminus might not be established at the Sound 
until the line was completed to the north boundary of 
Washington to secure the land grants of forty sections 
to the mile of completed road which he believed would 
sell for more than enough to pay for the construction. 
Branch lines under different names were to run in to 
tidewater at vantage points while the main line was 
finished to the Canadian boundary. Guests of high and 
low estate thronged to “Ogoutz’: generals of the army, 
cabinet officers, senators, ambassadors, financiers, none 
too high not to accept the bounteous hospitality offered, 
while there seemed to be none too low in social scale 
not to receive as cordial invitations from the great 
democratic financier. 


Mr. Cooke had built a palatial residence—castle 
would more accurately express it—a fifty-room palace at 
a cost of a million dollars a few miles out from the 
business center of Philadelphia. He named it “Ogoutz 
Place” after a noted Wyandotte chief. As many as 
eighty guests had been seated in the great dining room 
at one time. On the evening which I spent at the 
residence there were at least thirty besides the family, 
upon the occasion of Truman Evarts’ visit to Phila- 
delphia. Mr. Cooke thought it would be fitting to have 
the two western stories told to his invited guests and 


RAILROAD DEVELOPMENT 31 


so invited me to meet Mr. Evarts at the home. It was 
truly a remarkable story told by Mr. Evarts of his 
experience in the region now a part of the Yellowstone 
Park. Lost thirty-seven days in the wilderness, without 
food, fire or shelter, he wandered, living on thistle roots 
until his mind wandered and was finally rescued near 
death’s door. The expedition from which Mr. Evarts 
was lost confirmed the reports of this wonder of won- 
ders made by individual adventurers that heretofore 
had been received with incredulity until confirmed by 
organized exploration parties. 


Seventy years ago there was not a single mile of 
railroad in the state of Washington, nor for many years 
thereafter. This is not to be wondered at, there being 
only a small number of white people then domiciled 
within the confines of that extensive territory. It also 
must be borne in mind that the natural obstacles to 
railroad construction were many and great throughout 
all this Northwestern region. Rugged mountain ranges 
to be crossed, mighty rivers to be spanned; immense 
primeval forests to be penetrated and vast stretches 
of sandy waterless plains to be graded and ballasted. 
These were enough to appall the most daring financier 
and the most adventurous speculator; and were it not 
for the wonderful natural resources and advantages pos- 
sessed by the territory to more than offset the impedi- 
ments mentioned, it would undoubtedly have taken a 
much longer time than it has to cover the state with a 
network of steam and electric railroads as we find it 
today. 


The first operating steam railway in the state was 
the “Baker” road from Wallula on the Columbia River 
to Walla Walla, commonly known as the ‘rawhide” 
road. It was in operation, part of the thirty odd miles 
between these points, in 1871. Ten years previous to 
that time the Oregon Steam Navigation Company had 
a six-mile steam tramway from the upper to the lower 
cascades on the Columbia, in connection with their river 
steamers. But it can hardly be called a railroad. 


ah SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


The purpose of the Baker road was to carry the 
surplus wheat and flour of the productive Walla Walla 
Valley to the bank of the Columbia where it was trans- 
ferred to river steamers and thence taken to Portland. 


On the return, merchandise of all kinds was brought 
back for supplying the rapidly increasing population of 
that thriving town and surrounding country. 


This road lessened the transportation charge from 
Walla Walla to Portland $5.00 per ton. 


In May, 1870, ground was broken at Kalama on the 
Columbia River by the Northern Pacific R. R. Co., 
and in 1871, 25 miles built Northwards. On December 
16, 1873, the last spike was driven on Commencement 
Bay and a little later the first through train from Col- 
umbia River to the Sound arrived at tidewater. 


Not long afterwards it was extended to Seattle, 
thence Northwards to the Canadian boundary line. 


It can readily be seen that railroad development in 
our state was at the beginning of very slow growth, 
owing principally to the difficulty of getting capital 
interested in such enterprises. J. Cooke and Co.’s 
failure materially retarded the opening up and develop- 
ment of the entire Northwest from Minnesota to the 
Pacific. 


But time seems to cure everything. In 1887 the 
N. P. was completed to the Sound. 


From that time on, as the great advantages of the 
State became better advertised and its superb location 
in relation to expanding oriental commerce became 
recognized by the big business men of the country, the 
great railrad magnates vied with one another in push- 
ing construction of their roads, so as to partake in the 
benefits to be derived from the immense traffic destined 
to enter the unequalled harbors on the sea coast and 
within the land-locked Sound. 


RAILROAD DEVELOPMENT oS 


Now five transcontinental railroad lines reach Wash- 
ington with mileage within the borders of the state 
and traffic service as follows: 


Total No. of Persons Tons of Freight 
Mileage Carried One Mile Carried One Mile 


Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul ...... 1,089.21 36,047,246 618,954,319 
eseeete Nortneri i os oe ea ee be 1,586.70 100,127,943 753,761,721 
ROSCOE Me MOT 1 ree aa Wie 5: 2,978.02 135,766,979 1,508,790,421 
Oregon and Washington R. R. 

PNG WNC IO, aie Bete ec an sl 1,443.34 1,064,165 8,498,513 


Canadian Pacific—Train from boundary to Seattle over Northern Pacific or 
Great Northern track; Spokane, International. 


There are, besides the transcontinental lines enter- 
ing the state, twenty-five independent local steam rail 
lines, aggregating 1268.81 miles, carrying annually 
7,597,140 passengers and 356,713,480 tons of freight. 


The steam railways have now active competitors 
for business in twenty electrical railways within the 
state with an aggregate mileage of 1093.42 and carry- 
ing 156,567,509 passengers one mile per annum. 


The foregoing figures for steam and electrical rail- 
way development in the state of Washington are cer- 
tainly remarkable considering the fact that all this 
has been accomplished in the short space of 40 odd 
years. 


Greater progress than this no state in the Union 
has had. 


The ox gave way to the railway, the horse-car to the 
electric and gasoline motor and steam power. Now 
we are in the midst of a mighty struggle between steam 
on one side and gasoline and electricity on the other. 
It is a battle royal of the giants. Whether steam as a 
power will lose and drop out of the contest, is problem- 
atical; no man can tell; many, though, believe such 
will be the result. The recent electric operation of 
seven hundred miles of a transcontinental line—400 of 
it in our State—by the Milwaukee, where heavy trains 
pass over the mountain range daily, hauled by the elec- 
tric locomotive, motor, as we usually speak of them, 


34 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


is a feat not thought possible a few years ago; but 
here now it is an accomplished fact and has passed 
out of the domain of experiment. 


As though this demonstration was not sufficient, 
the “‘tug of war” between the electric and steam loco- 
motives recently held near this City, where, after the 
result of the contest hung in the balance for a short 
period, the electric monster towed the steam giant off 
the field with the latter’s wheels spinning on a sanded 
track furiously resisting. 


We are now cutting most of our lumber, grinding 
most of our grain, propelling all our urban and inter- 
urban cars, many of our steamships and turning the 
wheels of manufactories by this mysterious power. 


What wonder next in the march of events? 


CHAPTER IV. 


TRANSPORTATION AND TRAVEL 


In Pioneer Days Traveling Difficult—Trip to Sound—Magnifi- 
cent Scenery—First Roads—Military Road Through Naches 
Pass—Pioneers Take a Hand in Work—Immigrants on 
Plains—Difficulties Encountered—Improvements of Later 
Years—State Highways Now Numerous—Large Appropria- 
tion Last Biennium—The Automobile an Important Factor 
—History of Its Development—Now Indispensable to Busi- 
ness—Important Factor in War—National Highways Neces- 
sary—Measure Before Congress—Automobiles in State. 


In the early days of pioneer life if we wanted to 
go anywhere we either walked, paddled a canoe or 
rowed a boat. If we wanted to move anything we either 
packed it on our backs or by horses (sometimes on an 
ox), often by a sled but rarely by wagon. 


I write of a time prior to general road construction. 
I had a little of this experience myself in a walk from 
the Columbia River to Puget Sound with a forty-pound 
pack on my back and can truly say I enjoyed life; 
slept sound arid had a keen appetite; wonders upon 
wonders unfolding before me every day and when we 
first caught sight of the four snow capped mountain 
peaks at one view, we forgot ever having been tired 
or hungry, or for that matter, everything else than 
the grand scenery. Then when we came on the great 
network of bays, channels and islands of Puget Sound 
and views of the mountain ranges to the East and to 
the West, it seemed like an enchanted land of solitude 
held for us to enjoy and possess. We literally had to 
“paddle our own canoe,” or row our own boat, if we 
traveled on the waters of the Sound which we did 
for thirty days. 


36 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


The pioneers soon turned their attention to what 
they called roads; such as would be called trails now, 
but were wide enough to let wagons through by wind- 
ing about to avoid trees, big or little, leaving the sur- 
face much as nature had formed it, stumps, roots and 
all. “Dreadful,” some of my readers may exclaim. 
Yes, but it beat packing on the back of man or beast; 
besides, the pioneers didn’t stop to think about it: their 
errand was to “Get there,” and they did, as the sequel 
shows and came through with stalwart frames, healthy 
children, contented cheerful minds and, with many, a 
clear conscience of having done a duty to God and to 
mankind. 


The first through road from the Columbia River to 
the Sound began at Monticello, near the mouth of the 
Cowlitz River and ended at Tumwater, at the extreme 
Southern Point of Puget Sound, a distance of seventy 
miles. This on paper was a military road but I am not 
aware of any expenditure of the Government ever being 
made to either survey or improve it. Monticello was 
more a name than a town, being the farm house and 
outbuildings of Uncle Darb Huntington, as we all called 
him, with a blacksmith shop, store, two or three fam- 
ilies and a stable. Here the passengers were dumped 
off the little steamers from Portland and other Colum- 
bia River points, and here, in the earliest days, the 
hapless traveler either struck the trail (afterwards sup- 
planted by the road), or would tuck himself with others 
into a canoe, like sardines in a box, where an all-day 
journey up the Cowlitz River was his fate, unmoved 
and immovable except as an integral part of the frail 
craft that carried him to “Hard Bread’s” tavern for 
the night. We have taken a peep into Hard Bread’s 
hostelry in another chapter, and of the trail and canoe 
passage, but that was before the days of the road 
now under notice. At first, travelers to the Sound 
ascended the Cowlitz to the landing further up the 
river than where the mud-wagon road left the Cowlitz, 
and from the landing were sent on their way by saddle- 


TRANSPORTATION AND TRAVEL o7 


train or over the makeshift of a road cut by the Sim- 
mons-Bush party in 1845, over which they dragged 
their effects on sleds to the head of the Sound, or to 
be specific, to the mouth of the Deschutes River, after- 
wards and now known as Tumwater, two miles south 
of Olympia. 


I have no history of the construction of the later 
road all the way up the right bank of the Cowlitz to 
the mouth of the Toutle River (Hard Bread’s), and 
thence deflecting northerly to the Chehalis, where the 
old and new routes were joined, and soon emerged into 
the gravelly prairies where there were natural road 
beds everywhere. The facts are, this road, like “Topsy,” 
just “growed,” and so, gradually became a highway one 
could scarcely say when the trail ceased to be simply 
a trail and the road actually could be called a road. 
First, only saddle-trains could pass. On the back of a 
stiff jointed, hard trotting, slow walking, contrary mule, 
I was initiated into the secret depths of the mud holes 
of this trail. And such mud holes! It became a stand- 
ing joke after the road was opened that a team would 
stall with an empty wagon going down hill, and I came 
very near having just such an experience once, within 
what is now the municipal limits of the thriving city of 
Chehalis. 


After the saddle train, came the mud wagons in 
Which passengers were conveyed (often invited to 
walk over bad places, or possibly preferred to walk), 
over either the roughest corduroy or deepest mud, the 
one bruising the muscles, the other straining the nerves 
in the anticipation of being dumped into the bottomless 
pit of mud. 


Now (1921) there is a hard surfaced road most of 
the way (and soon will be all the way), over which 
automobiles “Speed” thirty miles an hour between the 
points named and extending Northward to the British 
Columbia line and Southward to Vancouver, Washing- 
ton, and on through Oregon to the California line, and 
thence through California to the Mexican border. 


38 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


Congress, early in the year 1853, appropriated 
$20,000.00 to build a military road through the Naches 
Pass from Fort Steilacoom on Puget Sound to Walla 
Walla, (Wallulu as we know it now), on the left bank 
of the Columbia River, a distance roughly estimated at 
225 miles. This fund, only a “Drop in the bucket” of 
what would be required to accomplish such an object, 
did not become available to expend that year, was 
placed under the control of Capt. George B. McClellan 
who, the next year dissipated a portion of it in reputed 
exploration, finally turned over the remainder to be 
expended by E. J. Allen, a pioneer of 1852, who had 
been at the head of the pioneer working force, opening 
the road through the pass the previous year, as will 
be related later in this chapter. The pioneers would 
not wait; the immigration of 1853 was on the Plains, 
wending their way to the Oregon country; all would go 
down the Columbia or over the mountain south of that 
river into the Southern section of the old Oregon terri- 
tory unless instant action was taken to open a road 
over the mountain direct to Puget Sound; so the sturdy 
settlers resolutely took the seemingly impossible task in 
hand, sent two parties into the field and demonstrated 
that a way could be opened and secured the passage 
through of nearly a hundred wagons and three hundred 
people during the year 18538. At times the people and 
their cattle were on the verge of starvation. This “Way” 
could hardly be called a road. It is a tragic story but 
too long to tell in detail for lack of space. How they 
whip-sawed lumber from drift-wood and built a boat 
to cross the mighty river Columbia a few miles below 
its junction with the Snake; how they toiled in the 
sage plains parallel to the Yakima Valley, then with- 
out a white settler in it; how they struggled up the 
canyon of the Naches, sometimes cutting their way 
through tangled brush and timber; sometimes traveling 
over rounded boulders imbedded in sand bars, or in the 
river, ascending the mountain range to be compelled to 
let their wagons down the Western slope with ropes of 
raw-hide from cattle killed on the spot, all reads like 


TRANSPORTATION AND TRAVEL 39 


fiction, which it is not, but is a true story as I happen 
to know by experience. Now tourists may drive their 
automobiles most of the way and it is to be hoped, 
soon may all the way. 


It was a hazardous undertaking this and one may 
well say rash when it is known there were less than 
four thousand people all told in the new territory; but 
the pioneers did not shirk the task and sent forty of 
the eight hundred workers of the territory to clear a 
way that the immigrants might follow. 


One incident must suffice to relate the difficulties 
confronting the immigrants as told by the writer long 
years ago when memory served him better than now 
and witnesses then more numerous, most of whom have 
Since passed on to the beyond. 


“About twenty miles north of the great mountain 
of the Cascade range is a picturesque, small scope of 
open country known as Summit Prairie, in the Naches 
Pass, some seventy miles easterly from Tacoma. In 
this prairie, a camp of immigrants was to be seen. Go 
back they could not; either they must go ahead or 
starve in the mountains. A short way out from the 
camp a steep mountain declivity lay squarely across 
their track. As one of the ladies of the party said, 
when she first saw it, ‘Why Lawsee Massee, we have 
come to the jumping off place at last.’ This lady felt 
like many others of the party, that they had come to 
the end of the world (to them), and the exclamation 
was not for the stage effect, but one of fervent prayer 
for deliverance. 


“Stout hearts in the party were not to be deterred 
from making the effort to go ahead. Go around this 
hill they could not; go down it with logs trailed to the 
wagons, as they had done before, they could not, as the 
hill was so steep the logs would go end over end and be 
a danger instead of a help. The rope they had was run 
down the hill and found to be too short to reach the 


40 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


bottom. One of the leaders of the party, James Biles, 
(I knew him well), turned to his men and said, ‘Kill 
a steer,’ and they killed a steer, cut his hide into strips 
and spliced it to the rope. It was found yet too short 
to reach the bottom. ‘The order went out, ‘Kill two 
more steers.’ And two more steers were killed, their 
hides cut into strips and spliced to the rope which 
then reached to the bottom of the hill; and by the aid 
of that rope and strips of the hides of those three 
steers, twenty-nine wagons were lowered down the 
mountain side to the bottom of the steep hill.” 


Now, a hundred and twenty-five miles of the way is 
covered by a road easily traversed by automobiles, 
forty of which is hard-surfaced, leaving less than forty 
in its primitive condition. 


By a recent official report we learn there are 2,976 
miles of State highways in the State, of which 1,945 
are improved; that is, either smooth gravelled or hard- 
surfaced with brick or cement: this does not take into 
account the network of local county roads to be found 
in each of the thirty-nine counties of the State exclu- 
sively under control of County authority, of a larger 
ageregate mileage. 


The report shows that during the bi-ennium just 
closed an expenditure of $11,725,330 in the aggregate 
was made and all on the policy of “Pay as you go.” 
The voters of the state have so far set their faces 
like flint against incurring state indebtedness and-are 
able to say, “Here we are without indebtedness and have 
a billion dollars assets in our roads and fourteen state 
institution buildings to show on the credit side of the 
ledger.” 


The total appropriation for state roads for the 
bi-ennium of 1921-22 is $12,490,000 all from state 
revenue; the policy is continued, “Pay as you go and 
keep the state out of debt.” 


TRANSPORTATION AND TRAVEL 4] 
THE AUTOMOBILE 


Comes now a new substance, Gasoline, to contend 
with the giants of power for a place “in the Sun;’ 
to plow our soil, harvest our crops, enter our service 
in a multiplicity of ways, besides contending with steam 
and electricity in movement of freight and passengers. 
When and how this contest will end, no man can foretell. 
Whether the supply of the basic substance from which 
gasoline is made will eventually fail, or if it does, 
a new source of force will take its place, we can only 
conjecture. We know as long as the seasons follow in 
succession and the rains fall; the rivers continue to 
flow, the supply of electric power will never diminish 
or fail us, and so we feel assured that the automobile 
and the motor truck, the trackless car, has come to 
stay, and to believe that the electric automobile and 
motor cars will in due time take possession of the 
field. 


In all the vast changes that have taken place, per- 
haps there is no single instrumentality that has played 
a more important part in the daily affairs of men than 
the “Horseless wagon’, commonly known as the auto- 
mobile. 


For hundreds of years, progressive men have racked 
their brains in efforts to devise a vehicle that could be 
driven on an ordinary highway by some motive power 
other than the horse. But although at times a near 
approach was made to successful construction of such a 
vehicle, yet there was always encountered some prob- 
lem that could not be solved. So the untiring labors of 
those ambitious inventors came to naught. 


It was reserved for an ingenious Frenchman named 
M. Leon Serpollet, by application of the instantaneous 
generator in 1894, to overcome all serious difficulties, 
and by so doing he has been an instrument in the 
hands of Providence to revolutionize the transportation 
of the world. And by the way, it needed revolutioniz- 


42, SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


ing. How vividly an old timer can remember the horrible 
conditions of what were called roads in pioneer days in 
this and other states; the mud holes, rocks and stumps 
only partially removed, the occasional impassable place 
that had to be corduroyed, and the steep hills that were 
almost impassable with even an empty wagon. All these 
things confronted the man who had taken up land for 
a homestead and upon which he sought to raise and 
market sufficient produce to keep himself and family in 
food and clothing. Without roads upon which he could 
take to market his surplus grain, vegetables and dairy 
products, he was compelled to live upon his own pro- 
duction. 


For years this condition had to be endured because 
the building of roads in such a State as Washington, 
with its immense primeval forests, its many ranges 
of high and rugged mountains, its mighty rivers and 
its vast stretches of sand and sagebrush, rendered such 
a task beyond the ability of a new and struggling com- 
monwealth to undertake. But the advent of the track- 
less car changed all this. Its advantages as a vehicular 
means of local travel soon became apparent; and later 
its great sphere of usefulness in the speedy and econ- 
omical transportation of freight, caused such a wide- 
spread and insistent demand for good roads, that pub- 
lic sentiment became thoroughly aroused, so that the 
counties separately and the State as a whole, appro- 
priated large sums for the construction of first class 
roads in every portion of the State. And still the good 
work goes on and will continue to go on until every nook 
and corner in the State will have a hard-surfaced road. 
Yes, the fever has even taken hold of Congress and 
large sums will soon become available for the building 
of several national highways traversing the land from 
North to South and from East to West. Who can 
doubt that this unity of purpose has been brought 
about through the universal interest of the American 
people in the improvement of automobile transportation. 


TRANSPORTATION AND TRAVEL 43 


When one views the continuous stream of auto travel 
at this date passing through the streets of our cities, 
both for transporting freight and personal locomotion, 
he would naturally infer that every kind of traveling 
is being done by automobile. While surely this would 
be a misconception, yet it is increasing so rapidly that 
it may become an absolute verity in the not distant 
future. Even now in long distance freight hauls, where 
the highways are suitable, auto freight trucks are enter- 
ing into competition with the railroads. And the time 
may come when the trackless car may not only supple- 
ment but largely take the place of our present railroads. 


The automobile has certainly made business more 
convenient and life more easy and enjoyable than in 
ye olden time. 


But whether the ‘“‘Buzz-wagon” is more conductive to 
the health and vigor of humanity than the old method 
of locomotion is very questionable. Its constant use 
impairs to a greater or less extent, the use of the limbs 
and tends to corpulency. However, the people like it 
and it is here to stay; and there is nothing to be gained 
by finding fault with it. For all must admit that it 
is an indispensable adjunct to high-pressure civilization. 


While all kinds of motor power have been used for 
propelling the automobile, gasoline has up to this time 
given the best satisfaction and is almost universally 
used for that purpose. However, there seems to be a 
widespread belief that the time will come when that 
mysterious agency, electricity, will become sufficiently 
amenable to human control to replace gasoline, steam, 
and everything of that nature now being used. 


Nor has the automobile been only of surpassing 
importance in improving the methods of transacting 
business in all branches of industrial activity; on the 
farm, in the logging camp, with the big manufacturing 
establishment, aiding the speedy delivery of merchan- 
dise from the wholesale to the retail merchant and 


44 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


from the merchant to his customers at their homes; 
bringing the suburban resident from his remote home 
to his employment in the city without the loss of valu- 
able time; taking the physician to the bedside of the 
stricken patient in a few moments, where a slight delay 
might often prove fatal; all these of prime importance 
in our civil life. But it has also been found of vital 
importance where gigantic armies are contending for 
the mastery in the field of battle. In the great World 
War, we can all remember how a number of the fastest 
cars were always in readiness at Staff Headquarters 
for conveying the Military Commanders from one 
strategical point to another in the quickest possible 
time, when failure to get there in the nick of time might 
mean irreparable disaster. 


At the most crucial period of that great contest, 
when the victorious hosts of the German Imperial 
Army, flushed with recent successes over English, French 
and Belgian forces, were driving headlong towards 
Paris, their main objective, and when at the first battle 
of the Marne the destiny of the allied cause lay trem- 
bling in the balance, the automobile it was that saved 
the day and turned a seeming defeat into a glorious vic- 
tory. In order to check the advance of the Germans at 
that fateful crisis, it was necessary to have large rein- 
forcements hurriedly brought up in support of the left 
wing of the Allied Army which was bearing the brunt 
of the enemy attack, and if compelled to give way, the 
road to Paris would be open for the Huns. There were 
100,000 troops in Paris but apparently no way of getting 
them to the front in time. At this critical juncture, 
Rene Viviani, Commander of the City, commandeered 
every auto in the metropolis, both passenger cars and 
trucks, loaded every fighting man in the city upon 
them and rushed them to the front. 


In a few hours, this formidable contingent appeared 
upon the scene of activities, inspired the hard-pressed 
allied soldiers with new courage, at the same time send- 


TRANSPORTATION AND TRAVEL 45 


ing dismay into the ranks of the enemy. In an irre- 
sistible advance, the gallant French Army drove the 
enemy back across the Marne; threatened his right 
Wing, causing a general retreat. The day was saved. 
A Great Battle was won! And the automobile achieved 
an imperishable record in the annals of war. 


But that was in Europe. Right here in our country 
the time may come when the trackless ear will play 
an important part in saving the day. Let no man delude 
himself with the idea that the day of wars has passed. 
Nations and individuals have engaged in deadly combat 
since the dawn of history and we feel no assurance that 
they will not grapple for mastery till time shall be no 
more. 


Whenever a man’s honor is assailed, his person 
assaulted or his property confiscated, he feels like fight- 
ing; and if there is red blood in his veins he will 
fight. So it is with nations. No country worth the 
name will stand to be bullied or imposed upon by another 
country. It is contrary to human nature to tamely 
submit to insult. Leagues of Nations, or International 
Conferences may at times be able to settle some differ- 
ences, or negotiate some compromise, but as sure as the 
sun shines in the heavens there will come a time when 
racial hates, commercial rivalries, or sectarian animosi- 
ties will become so strong, and popular feeling so 
inflamed that nothing less than the arbitrament of war 
can settle the disputes. Now the only way to minimize 
this inevitable danger is to be thoroughly prepared 
for all eventualities. This country has experienced the 
lack of preparedness on more than one important occa- 
sion and a recurrence of such a humiliating condition 
should never be allowed to occur again. Being pre- 
pared is a safe insurance against danger and disaster. 


One of the most important things in the line of 
preparedness, for a country like this, of such vast 
extent, is to have every means of transportation in first 
class condition, so that men and material could be 


46 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


moved expeditiously to any point on either of our coast 
lines in numbers or quantities as may be needed. In 
order to accomplish that result, there must be more, 
many more good roads, so good that thousands upon 
thousands of motor cars heavily laden could travel over 
them at a high rate of speed. The few lines of railroads 
now traversing the continent would be totally inadequate 
in such an emergency. Therefore, great national high- 
ways should be constructed at the earliest possible 
moment, traversing the country from the Atlantic to 
the Pacific. Then we could feel as if we were able 
to meet any emergency, even though our army should 
remain numerically small. 


Nor is it alone as a matter of defense that such 
highways are now becoming of vital importance. Before 
we realize it, our present transcontinental railroad sys- 
tems will be unable to handle the increasing freight 
and passenger traffic from coast to coast, and it does 
not seem probable that any new through lines are likely 
to be built in the near future. Then there must ensue 
a paralysis of business, which is neither pleasant nor 
profitable to contemplate. 


In 1915, Congressman Humphrey, of Washington, 
introduced a bill in the House for the purpose of 
initiating measures leading to the construction of a 
National Highway from St. Louis, Mo., to Olympia, 
Wash., said road to follow as nearly as practicable, 
the route of the old “Oregon Trail’; said highway to be 
known as “Pioneer Way.” 


The author of this volume appeared before the House 
Committee on Military Affairs at that time and made 
a plea in behalf of the construction of said highway, 
alleging reasons why favorable action should be taken 
in the matter by Congress; namely, that from a senti- 
mental point of view, it would be a fitting tribute 
or monument to the hardy pioneers who traveled across 
mountains and deserts to penetrate the “Land of Mys- 
tery”, the Oregon country, which has now become one 


TRANSPORTATION AND TRAVEL AT 


of the most desirable and prosperous regions of the 
United States. 


Secondly, it would be a great factor in stimulating 
industrial activity in the many States through which it 
would pass, and afford a grand opportunity for the 
trackless car to demonstrate what it could accomplish 
in competition with the steam railroads in carrying 
freight across the continent. Stress was laid upon its 
absolute necessity as a feature of military preparedness, 
so that the country might not be caught napping when 
the emergency arose. He called attention to the won- 
derful developments that must inevitably come in the 
transportation business of the country through the 
universal employment of the trackless car for the move- 
ment of freight and the carrying of passengers. 


This measure, first introduced by Mr. Humphrey in 
the House, has been kept alive in the Senate by Senator 
Jones of Washington, who once succeeded in passing 
it through the Senate and it is now pending in Congress. 


It is proper to add in concluding this chapter that 
the State of Washington stands very close to the top in 
the number of automobiles owned according to popu- 
lation. 


In 1920 there were in this state 180,214 registered 
motor cars of all kinds while the population numbered 
1,356,621, making a showing of one motor car for 
every seven and a half inhabitants. 


This is certainly a splendid showing and conclusively 
demonstrates that the “Evergreen State” maintains her 
old-time preeminence as a wide-awake, up to date and 
progressive commonwealth. 


CHAPTER V. 


TRIP TO NEW YORK 


Starting Out, 1870—Traveling Through Mud in Dead-Azle 
Wagon—On the “Briny Deep” in Decrepit Boat—Arrival in 
New York—Meeting With Horace Greeley—At Farmer’s Club 
—Flowers From Pacific Attract Attention—New England 
Audiences Amused at Author’s Appearance—Sharks in New 
York—Good Results From Publication of Book. 


On the fifth of December, 1870, at 3 o’clock in the 
morning, dark as pitch, I started for New York City 
with my precious cargo of 2500 copies of the book 
referred to and fifty-three varieties of flowers gathered 
the two preceding days in the gardens and commons 
of Olympia growing in the open air. 


These flowers were gathered at the instance of Mr. 
H. R. Woodard, of West Olympia, who assisted in gath- 
ering and arranging them for their long trip to the 
Atlantic seaboard. It will be more accurate, however, 
to say that I assisted him, as Mr. Woodard is entitled 
to the credit of making the collection ; otherwise, I 
would not have thought of doing it. 


The conveyance to the Columbia River consisted 
of what by courtesy was known as the stage, but in 
fact a mud wagon, well named indeed, as the 
sequel will show. It was a “dead axe” wagon, i. e., 
without springs and would give a fellow an appetite 
for dinner long before the dinner hour. And such 
mud! I am shy of telling the exact facts, lest someone 
would accuse me of exaggerating. 


I cannot recall how often we got out to pry up the 
wheels and lighten the load, nor how far we trudged 


TRIP TO NEW YORK A 


along to ease up the load. I exclaim again, such mud! 
In several instances, the space between the spokes would 
become clogged and loaded down and compel the driver 
to stop and clean it out. It’s different now. Now one 
can skip along over almost the whole route on a hard- 
surfaced road, the Pacific Highway, as smooth and 
solid as the best paved city street; and travel as far in 
three hours as the mud wagon could in three days. 


Portland was reached in due time and after a few 
days’ delay I boarded the steamer bound for San Fran- 
cisco, and cast my fortune on the waters of the great 
Columbia River and the wide sea of the Pacific. 


The steamer was small, for a sea-going vessel, old 
and decrepit, as no other could then be obtained for 
the route. The terrors of the Columbia River Bar 
Seemed present in the minds of the passengers as we 
floated on the placid waters of the great river. A recent 
wreck on the bar fanned the feeling of uneasiness in 
the minds of the passengers. The stench from bilge 
water and oil-burning lamps was enough to sicken 
one without drawing on the imagination. As we 
entered the approach to the bar, several ran to the 
rail, in which I led, to feel incensed, and to wonder how 
anyone could be so heartless as to laugh at the calamity 
overtaking others. 


NOTE: As I write, a vague feeling of uneasiness 
. at the pit of my stomach has seized upon me at the 
thought of the scene I am trying to describe. I could 
readily have punched the culprit for laughing, follow- 
ing my inclination; but no sooner did I get relief than 
I could not restrain an immoderate laugh at the antics, 
shall I say, of an elderly priest who gripped the rail, 
dug his toes into the deck of the little ship and uttered 
a wail so long and so prolonged,—a gurgling groan so 
ridiculously funny,—that we all laughed until compelled 
to join in the circus. 


The gong sounded for all hands to go below as there 
were breakers ahead and soon an utter blackness over- 


50 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


shadowed us followed by a deluge of water down the 
stairway. An impromptu prayer meeting opened a 
session. For myself, I had reached my stateroom in 
utter collapse with a feeling of despair akin to despera- 
tion not to care whether the ship went down if I could 
only be relieved of the agony within me. At intervals 
on the trip, I could hear the old priest wail from a 
distant room, to which I would almost invariably 
respond in chorus with a mental resolution that I 
never—no, never—would I go to sea again; I would 
walk a year first. 


It’s different now. Great steamers a thousand feet 
long, of 50,000 tonnage, eight stories deep or high— 
whichever way we may prefer to express it—sink far 
below the surface of disturbed waters by the waves, 
with outside fins or inner U-shaped water tanks to 
automatically counteract the roll of the ship and mini- 
mize the motion, make life not merely endurable, but 
delightful at sea, where one’s feet may tread a steadied 
deck, where stench of the bilge water is banished; the 
oil lamps driven off by the odorless electric lights; 
the cramped quarters of the narrow bunks have given 
way to the comfortable bed—in a word, where all the 
modern comforts and luxuries of a first-class hotel 
may be experienced on the modern floating palaces of 
the present day. 


Having, subsequent to the time of the trip described, 
crossed the Atlantic eight times on the greater and 
more comfortable ships, I can testify from experience to 
the progress made in the comfort of travel by sea. 


At the date of which I write, the depth of water 
on the Columbia River Bar precluded the entrance 
to the Columbia of large steamers. Now, by the work 
of enterprising citizens of Portland and continued appro- 
priation by the government, the channel has been deep- 
ened from the sea to the City of Portland so that 
palatial steamers of heavy draught can reach that city 
in safety. I call that “Progress”, and again with a 
big “P” and spelled in big letters. 


TRIP TO NEW YORK 51 


Arriving in San Francisco exhausted by sea-sickness 
as before noted, a feeling of depression seized me with 
an iron grip. My mind harked back to the cabin home 
in Puyallup; to the little wife; the children that made 
the cabin so cheery; the pets in the log barn; and even 
to the song birds of the nearby forests—in a word, 
I was homesick. I could not brook the idea of backing 
out and meet the derision of the people where everybody 
knew everybody; for nearly every man, woman and 
child knew of the venture, and would know of the 
result; and besides, there was that dread sea-sickness 
to confront me at once if I turned back. And _ go, 
without delay I took train over the Central and Union 
Pacific for Omaha and, figuratively speaking, burned 
my bridges behind me. I think it took eight days to 
make the trip to New York, most of the way without 
sleeper or dining car, and part of the way in the 
smoker with stifling clouds of smoke and vile stench of 
an unventilated car full of people, two in each seat, 
and some sitting upon baggage in the aisle. For four 
days and nights I did not catch a wink of sleep other 
than that which came over me sitting bolt upright 
alongside a companion traveler. It’s different now in 
the palace sleeper and appetizing diner. One must 
have experienced both trips to appreciate the latter, 
and the measure of PROGRESS which again we will 
spell with a big “‘P” and in big letters. 


MEETING HORACE GREELEY 


I had read the New York Weekly Tribune for eight- 
een years while living in the Territory, and felt almost 
as though I had a personal acquaintance with the noted 
editor, and immediately sought an interview with him. 
I did not have to wait long until I climbed the rickety 
wooden stairs to the second story—and which I think 
was the top story—of the building, and a wooden build- 
ing at that, and into the presence of the great man. 
He was a corpulent man, as I remember him, with a 
benevolent countenance that seemed almost to say, 


U, OF IL, LIB, 


52 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


“TI love you,” and at once banished all feelings of bash- 
fulness that might have overtaken a green countryman, 
literally just out of the woods. 


The flowers before mentioned had been well pre- 
served between the leaves of my scrap books and had, 
to a great extent, retained their natural color. Loving 
fingers of lady friends had artistically arranged them on 
sheets of tinted paper. Mr. Greeley examined the col- 
lection with great interest. 


“TI have long known,” he said, “that the Pacific 
Coast possessed a much milder climate than that of 
the Atlantic; but I did not realize so great a difference.” 
Mr. Greeley continued talking while writing a letter 
of introduction to Chairman Ely of the Farmer’s Club, 
a remarkable feat, talking on one subject and at the 
same time writing upon another, the like of which I 
had never before heard. 


AT THE FARMER’S CLUB 


In due time, I presented Mr. Greeley’s letter to 
Chairman Ely, and instantly received an invitation to 
display my flowers and speak before the Club. The 
flowers did indeed make a fine display and attracted 
great attention. Following the advice of Mr. Greeley, 
I had prepared a history of the flowers and a brief 
description of Washington, all of which was published 
in the New York Tribune, and two or three other 
leading papers of New York, numerous papers in the 
East, and again in London (at the instance of the 
Northern Pacific Railroad Company) until the aggre- 
gate issues reached over two million copies. It was 
indeed a great advertisement, and all because of the 
foresight of one unassuming man, a lover of nature, 
Mr. Woodard, before mentioned. 


JAY COOKE 


It was my good fortune to become quite intimately 
acquainted with Jay Cooke, who had acquired world- 


TRIP TO NEW YORK D3 


wide fame in the sale of United States bonds during 
the war of the rebellion. Unquestionably his work 
hastened the development of our territory. Upon 
presenting a copy of my book to Mr. Cooke, he at once 
invited me to accompany him to Hartford, Connecticut, 
where he was going that same evening to meet invited 
guests of capitalists to a banquet provided by him. 
The flowers again came to the front, and attracted 
great attention. Mr. Cooke took up the whole edition 
of my book that I had taken East, and commissioned 
me to tour New England, talk to the people, exhibit 
my flowers, which I did at Worcester and other 
cities, and finally to the Horticultural Club in Tremont 
Temple, Boston. 


S My appearance in New England cities and before 
New England audiences certainly did attract wide atten- 
tion and all sorts of comments. I am not conscious 
of attempting to put on any “Western Style,” in fact, 
I know I did not, and yet to my surprise people seemed 
to look upon me as a typical Westerner, and as I after- 
wards learned, but did not at the time suspect, sup- 
plied quiet amusement to many. 


I had never been in a large city or within reach 
of a daily mail. I did not eat with my knife, suck 
coffee from a saucer with a gurgling sound, drink out 
of my finger bowl or use my napkin on my olfactory 
protuberance as some would-be wag pictured Western 
manners. 


I did however get caught (luckily at a hotel) in 
unthinkingly dropping a lump of butter into my coffee. 
The titter that went the rounds of the darky waiters 
dressed in swallow-tail coats amused me—but I didn’t 
do it again. I had acquired the habit, in my camp life 
before the advent of condensed milk ‘and to this day 
prefer the butter to that of thin cream or even rich 
milk. 


54 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


I had been warned to look out for ‘“Sharks’—confi- 
dence men—who would in some way fleece me, even if 
they didn’t rob me. Sure enough, one of them accosted 
me the first day on the streets of New York. “Would 
you like an introduction to Jay Cooke, who would cer- 
tainly take one of your books?” Of all things, that 
was what I did want, not realizing that I did not need 
an introduction other than presenting a copy of my 
book; and this was the way I blundered into the 
presence of Mr. Cooke that led to a successful result 
of my trip. The fellow was recognized at the bank on 
the corner of Wall and Nassau Street and a right royal 
welcome accorded me as the sequel shows. While await- 
ing the appearance of Jay Cooke, the brother, Pitt 
Cooke, embraced an opportunity to warn me against 
my erstwhile friend and after the interview with Jay 
Cooke and engagement to go to the Hartford with him, 
managed to show me out of the bank at a side door, 
leaving the “friend” sitting in the bank. How long he 
stayed or what became of him, I never knew. 


While the publication of the little book, followed by 
the blundering method of its promulgation did secure 
best possible results, yet the culminating factor of 
great events, the beginning of work on the Northern 
Pacific Railway finally unloosed the iron bands of 
isolation and brought many immigrants to the territory. 


CHAPTER VI. 


CLIMATE 


Great Diversities of Climate in State—Western Portion Very 
Mild and Equable—Inland Empire Has More Variation— 
Lure of Climate Brought Author to Coast—-Disappointment 
At First—Entire Satisfaction Afterwards—No Mistake Has 
Been Made—U. S. Weather Bureau Reports To Tell the Tale. 


The full and complete tables of temperature and 
rainfall that follow, prepared by the United States 
Weather Bureau, specially for this work, covering the 
whole State and for the whole period of time in which 
observations have been made, leave but little to be said 
on climate of the State. 


The wide variation in rainfall and temperature 
registered at the various stations, shows how utterly 
impossible it is to give a special description other than 
applicable to restricted localities. 


On the eight Coast stations west of the Puget Sound 
basin, the annual mean precipitation is 96.4, varying 
from 1387 inches at Quiniault to 62.4 at Berth Head 
with mean temperature at 50.7. 


On the western slope of the Cascade range the 
temperature runs lower. As the altitude increases, 
precipitation becomes greater than in the Basin in 
closer proximity to the waters of the Sound and near 
tide water level. 


Even in the Puget Sound division where the would- 
be wag said it “rained every day in the year and 
Sundays too,’ the difference in the annual rainfall 
varies from a minimum of 20.7 inches at Port Townsend 


56 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


to 55 at Olympia. At Tacoma, thirty miles north from 
Olympia the annual precipitation drops to 42.2. 
Twenty-five miles further north at Seattle, to 34.3. 
At Bellingham, 80 miles still further north it is but 
30.5. For the whole annual precipitation in the Puget 
Sound basin with observations at fifteen stations, aver- 
aging twenty years, the average has been 38.7 inches, 
temperature 49.9, with variations of not more than three 
degrees in temperature over the whole district. 


Then note the equable annual range of temperature 
in the basin of Puget Sound: at no point higher monthly 
mean temperature than 64 (Seattle), or lower than 35 
(Clearbrook) ; the days are never hot or sultry and 
nights invariably cool—so cool as to require almost the 
same bed covering in summer as in winter. 


The range between the highest and lowest monthly 
mean temperature at Seattle is 24 degrees; at Tacoma 
24; at Olympia 25; at Bellingham 22. 


The summers are too cool to produce corn, melons, 
grapes, peaches, etc., to perfection, although each are 
produced for home consumption, particularly corn, 
but for all the hardier vegetables and fruits the climate 
is ideal, especially for the apple and small fruits. 


Mast of the Cascade Range of mountains, commonly 
known as Eastern Washington, or the Inland Empire, 
the range of temperature between winter and summer 
is greater, although the winters are not severe. The 
summer temperature is suitable for producing corn, 
and the more tender vegetables, fruits and melons in 
great abundance; in fact the peaches and grapes pro- 
duced in large quantity have acquired a national fame; 
the apples world-wide, as shown elsewhere in _ this 
volume. 


As a young man of twenty-two with my young wife, 
I can truly say that it was the lure of climate that 
drew us to the Oregon country and brought the final 


CLIMATE 57 


decision to undertake the memorable trip over the 
Oregon Trail. To say that we realized what that trip 
involved would not be ingenuous; but it proved to be 
an undertaking far more strenuous than we had counted 
on and I think such was the case with nearly all of 
the pioneers of that day. With two feet of snow fall- 
ing within sixty days after arrival, our ideals as to 
climate vanished. Discouragement and discontent reigned 
Supreme among the newly arrived immigrants. I 
believe nine-tenths of them would have left the country 
immediately if they could, but they couldn’t get away; 
in less than a year most all could have gone but by 
that time they didn’t want to go. Those that survived 
the trip averaged stronger and more stalwart men and 
women than the throng that crossed the Missouri 
River. It goes without saying that the greater number 
that dropped by the wayside were from the weaker 
physical class, though many strong men and women 
succumbed. Fully five thousand laid down their lives 
in the struggle on the Oregon Trail that one year 
alone (1852) and of course, the average that succeeded 
were of the class that were strongest; and so, when 
we speak of the pioneers as a class of stalwarts (which 
they were), it is well to remember the sad story that 
eliminated the physically weak. 


The sun shone brightly through most of the month 
of February following (1853), and in early March days 
Wwe made gardens and our spirits grew apace with the 
garden stuff and our dreams of the Oregon climate 
seemed to be realized; then when the later planting of 
hardy vegetables grew all through the month of Nov- 
ember, we were happy in the thought we had made no 
mistake in choosing the Oregon country for our future 
home. 


The reader must remember this occurred before there 
was a Washington (territory) and that a part of the 
experience related, while within the borders of what 
became Washington, was then a part of and known as 
Oregon. 


58 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


I have resided here sixty-eight winters and during 
that time have seen several pass without enough snow 
to whiten the ground; then again several with from 
two to three feet in depth, but never to remain long 
under the sweep of the Chinook wind from off the warm 
Japanese stream of the Pacific that here hugs the coast 
closely; in other words, nature’s fickle mood is with 
us as elsewhere on the globe, leaving us_ without 
an ideal climate made to order, but be it said boldly, 
a beautiful climate and healthy without comparison. The 
prevailing winds from off the wide expanse of the 
Pacific Ocean, the oft cleansing of the atmosphere 
(washing, shall I say?) from frequent rains, the refresh- 
ing cool nights that invariably appear as old Sol 
disappears, the absence of sweltering, enervating heat 
in summer and lurking malarial germs, all combine to 
provide surroundings to invigorate the system; then 
the waters from the springs and rivulets that abound, 
even bursting out on our smallest islands, often hun- 
dreds of feet above the salt sea tide levels, the ‘Pure the 
sparkling water” is not only a thing of beauty but 
of wonderful comfort and life inspiring utility: always 
“soft” as rainwater and as pure. 


I have often and often looked around about me to 
view these great evergreen forest trees to wonder if 
they did not breathe and absorb from the atmosphere 
that which we call impurities. These giants draw their 
substance from air and moisture and not from Mother 
Earth. One might almost carry the ash of one of these 
monsters in his hat; in other words it is certain the 
evergreen forests that are now “the world’s storehouse 
of timber” depend upon Mother Earth where they 
stand, only as an abiding place and not for sustenance. 
I can here only record the fact and leave to scientists 
to demonstrate how the result is accomplished and the 
effect upon the impurities of the surrounding atmos- 
phere, if any. 


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CHAPTER VII. 


HEALTH AND LONGEVITY 


Death Rate In Washington Very Low—But Little Over Half 
What It Is in 26 Registration States—Equable Climate and 
Pure Water Largely the Cause—Healthy Blood of Pioneers 
Also Contributes—Advance of Science Has Done Wonders— 
Possibility of Increasing Span of Life—Washington Most 
Healthy Spot on Earth. 


The United States census report discloses the fact 
that the death rate in units of 1000 in Washington 
(state) is but little over half that in the twenty-six 
registration states, shown in detail by the table follow- 
ing: 


1917 1916 1915 
OOM aE Viaje Mommas lene Prd PI 13.9 13.5 Lou 
COOIGTACO Te ee Ne ce 10.9 10.3 BG Ba 
ZONNOCTICIIL dette ce cued pean 16.5 16.3 14.9 
NGA ets eae 14.0 13.6 bag 
ATISAS Hoke? ee Teas aes Pie 10.9 10.1 
KentUCky ence ct ca epee 13:7 12.6 12.3 
BER) TEV ey te ah nee ee ie 15.1 15.? 15.6 
IMT ET VIDIO tet elven eee he hace Wis 16.5 15.8 
Massachusetts: ....22..022-212.0.2. 15.0 Td.2 14.5 
NMACDIV ani meee eh day 15.2 i tayal 13.4 
WVLINTIESOLA eee tee acd. eee: 10.3 10.7 10.1 
WY RISTT OV A os DO 2Dt Ges Api tle ae De one Bie 12.9 12.0 
MOLES We ect reas 13.9 12.6 11.4 
New Hampshire .................... 16.8 16.1 16.1 
New fd OP BGV foie en ees 14.6 15.0 13.8 
NGWitVOE Ki eres oy Bini cer i 14.7 14.8 14.6 
INOTUENMCATOMNA i clue 14.0 1 173 
QI ee eee Pho iN dl 14.8 14.4 13.0 


Pennsylvantar yc cee ae 14.8 14.6 13.8 


HEALTH AND LONGEVITY 67 


PMc omisland 5.2020 6200s Las 15.5 14.8 
POUCH MOATOMNA cis al 14.5 LOSS ey eet 
37 ali Sa CAA a Ay opt ey 10.4 10.4 9.9 
Peer miOninprterd tree wi Maat 15.0 15.6 14.7 
CS ETE, AAO ne ae Se 14.3 14.7 14.2 
Re LN LOT tc hae 00 7.6 Teh 8.1 
Via Se ET AR 11.5 11.8 10.8 

aha Wig HERTS NR MUINY Aid la eT aA 14.0 13.9 13.3 


The equable climate of Washington lays a solid 
foundation for good health and longevity. The absence 
of extreme heat or cold as shown by the official report 
to be found in this volume extending over a period of 
sixty years, abundantly proves this fact. Then it is 
scientifically proven that a moist atmosphere is a clean 
atmosphere. That when rain falls, or fog prevails, 
the air, so to speak, is washed and all impurity, if any, 
is removed, of which there is precious little coming 
from off the wide sweep of the Pacific Ocean and carried 
inland far beyond the eastern confines of the State by 
the prevailing winds. 


We are blessed with pure water. The snows upon 
the high mountain ranges feed the rivulets and springs, 
the first forming rivers, the latter bursting out in 
springs on widely distributed areas, even on the islands 
of the sound at high elevation and along the fifteen 
hundred miles of shore line beaches of Puget Sound. 
Supplies of the precious fluid, as one may say, being 
found almost everywhere. 


The cities of the State have taken advantage of the 
opportunity offered and have safeguarded the watershed 
from which to draw their supplies and have secured 
an abundance of this elemental conservator of health— 
pure water. 


“In 1900 the average age at death in the registration 
States of the United States was 36.8 years. For the 
cities it was 32.4, for the rural districts 44.51 years. In 
1913 the average age at death for the United States 


68 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


registration area was 39.2 years for males and 40.6 
for females and 39.8 for the entire population.” 
(Whipple, page 375, “Vital Statistics.”) It is now 
(1920) 44 years, average for males and females. 


Turning to the birth rates, the Health Department 
of Seattle in 1918-19 published the report for the State 
for 1907 to 1919, inclusive, showing an average of 
17.8—in other words, two births for every death for 
the period the tables cover for births and deaths—no 
race suicide here; no necessity for an open door policy 
for immigration. 


Coming back to the death rate problem, we should 
note some abnormal conditions, bearing on the amaz- 
ingly favorable showing for Washington State in the 
tables quoted. Although the figures no doubt are cor- 
rect, the tables do not tell the whole story and hence 
to a small extent may be misleading. 


If a person, for instance, looks out upon a thronged 
street in Seattle where I am writing, he can discover a 
lack of the usual percentage of old men he could see 
upon the streets of some older settled sedate cities 
such as, for instance, Philadelphia, with a death rate 
of (25.68) in 1918, or Boston (22.24), or Pittsburgh 
(25.65). 


Again, a small percentage of our old men go south, 
which is perhaps reflected in the higher death rate of 
California as a state for the same period, 1915-16-17, 
showing the rate of 13.7, 13.5, 18.9 for the same res- 
pective years named for Washington; thus showing 56 
per cent greater rate than in Washington. 


Then again we should note the recent reported in- 
crease of our population, are nearly all below the middle 
class age and of a virile selected active class, willing 
to do and dare, that contribute to the result shown. 


And again, may I not with propriety point with 
pride to the blood of the pioneers, who founded this 


HEALTH AND LONGEVITY 69 


State, coursing through the veins of an active class 
of native sons and daughters who have come upon the 
stage of action while their forbears sleep beneath the 
sod of the State they loved so well—the pioneer that 
survived the ordeal of the “battle of the plains,” leaving 
so many of the physically weaker behind to sleep beneath 
the sands. 


When we compare the cities of the Southern State, 
the ratio is increased, though the tables are incomplete 
and preclude complete comparison. It is noticeable that 
in both cities—San Francisco and Los Angeles—the 
birth rate is less than the death rate. The death rate 
of San Francisco for 1918 was 20.08, birth rate 16.90; 
for Los Angeles 15.68, birth rate 14.75. 


In bulletin 30 (1909) prepared for the Nationat 
Conservation Commission by Professor Irving Fisher 
of Yale University and member of the commission, this 
statement is made: “The length of life in Sweden 
and Denmark is over fifty years; in the United States 
and England forty-five; in India less than twenty-five. 
The tables for Massachusetts for 1893-1897 show an 
average duration of life in that State of forty-five years 
as compared with forty in 1845, and thirty-five an 
estimate of 1789, based, however, on doubtful returns.” 


In the registration area of the United States (i. e., 
where records are kept in 26 states) the average death 
rate is 14 per 1000; in France it is 20; in India 42. 


Washington now has a law to prevent marriage alli- 
ances among criminals, paupers, and the feeble minded 
and all persons suffering from transmissible diseases, 
and for certain crimes. It is now provided in Indiana that 
confirmed criminal imbeciles and rapists, when it is 
deemed advisable by experts shall be unsexed. Under 
this law over 800 prisoners have been sterilized to date 
(1909). The recent Washington law provides for sim- 
ilar treatment. 


70 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


Antiseptic surgery has in the last century been the 
greatest triumph of the medical profession. It has 
greatly reduced the mortality from operations and is 
illustrated by the figures in army operations, and tables 
are given to verify the statement. A large part of the 
decrease in death rate can be attributed to scientific 
sanitation, hygiene, and medical discoveries. 


“The hygiene of school children is especially impor- 
tant because of its application to human life in its 
earliest stages. There is a world wide movement, led 
by Switzerland and some other countries of Europe, to 
obtain and to apply knowledge of how to educate the 
mind without weakening the body. As it is, school 
children are especially exposed to contagious diseases 
which under present conditions, often sweep through a 
school before the local health board even hears of it.” 


Life is lengthening. During the first three-quarters 
of the nineteenth century the rate was about twenty- 
nine years. At present life in Massachusetts is length- 
ening at the rate of about fourteen years per century; 
in Europe about seventeen. 


At the date of my birth, ninety-one years ago (1830), 
the average of life in the United States was a little less 
than thirty years; it is now forty-four. The recorded 
data is fragmentary and imperfect but I am satisfied 
the figures named above are approximately correct. 
In Geneva the records go back over three centuries 
showing the following life span: 


Sixteenth century, 21.2; 17th century, 25.7; 18th 
century, 33.6; 1801 to 1883, 39.7. 


I repeat that this wonderful progress became possible 
because of the advance in the science of medicine, sur- 
gery, and sanitation. If once an intelligent citizenship 
will fully co-operate in sanitation with the medical pro- 
fession, to which it is able to point the way, there is 
no reason why the span of life may not be increased 


HEALTH AND LONGEVITY 71 


to a hundred years from that of less than half a 
hundred as now. It is a far cry from twenty years as 
in the 16th century to forty-four in the United States 
in the 20th, all attributed to the progress of our civili- 
zation and to science of medicine, sanitation and preven- 
tion of epidemics that more than doubled in four cen- 
turies. 


With the pure air, pure water, and most equable 
climate, Washington heads the list as the most healthy 
spot on earth. I do not write this in a vainglorious, 
optimistic mood, but as a record of a sincere belief, 
resulting from painstaking research for facts to prepare 
for writing this chapter. It has been a revelation. 


CHAPTER VIII. 


LIBRARIES 


Free Library System of Recent Date—Libraries Have Existed 
Since Dawn of History—Only for the Favored Few— 
Pioneers Established Libraries—Territorial Government Es- 
tablished Library at Olympia—Seattle Public Library— 
Carnegie Endowment—Organized Work for Blind—Amerv- 
canization Work of Library—The People’s University. 


One might almost say that the last quarter of a 
century, beginning in 1895, gave birth to the free 
library system as seen in so many libraries of the 
present day. A wonderful change has taken place in 
the management of libraries, a new era has displaced 
the old, a marvelous system has been ushered in that is 
destined to revolutionize the use of books by the public. 


Libraries, so called, doubtless existed back to pre- 
historic time, but were really store houses of books for 
safe keeping rather than for use by even the favored 
few. Libraries are no longer confined to rich families. 
Like the free schools and free roads, they are for the 
benefit of all. 


The pioneers of Washington were accustomed to 
educational privileges. They were not slow in estab- 
lishing Public Libraries. 


The Steilacoom Library Association was formed in 
1854; Port Madison in 1860; Good Templars’ Lodge 
of Olympia in 1869 and Seattle in 1862, in connection 
with the University. 


The splendid library at Tacoma is the outgrowth of 
the old Mercantile Library, started in 1886 by the 
ladies of Tacoma and was given to the city in 1894. 


LIBRARIES ico 


Public Libraries all over the northwest grew out of 
such beginnings as these. 


The Pioneer Public Library of Washington, the 
State Library at Olympia, was established by the Ter- 
ritorial Government and was the pride of Gov. Stevens 
who made the initial purchase of 2,500 volumes at 
his own expense. 


In 1898, Allen C. Mason established a free library 
in North Tacoma. The history of this library and the 
way in which it built up North Tacoma shows that 
education, by this system, is a popular and far reach- 
ing method. Mr. Mason maintained this library at 
his own expense and subsequently gave it to Tacoma. 


Dexter Horton started the funds which saw the 
initial purchase of the Seattle Free Library in 1890, 
the same year in which the Everett Public Library 
was established. 


The Seattle Public Library report for 1920 gives 
the following figures: 
Date of organization, 1891. 


Date of opening present central library building, Dec., 
1906. 
Cost of Central library building, $348,734. 


Amount of Carnegie donation: 


IPGHUPATPLOP REV co ru ML ia Wise ole ser $220,000 

Sie DrANCOMMDLArlog, Mau iewuee cue ee, 190,000 

Fund promised for Fremont branch, 
aboutttow hbeyerected( 2.8 ve bs 35,000 


No. of volumes Jan. 1, 1921—335,509. 
No. of borrowers Jan. 1, 1921—80,481. 


No. of books circulated for home reading in 1920 
1,826,904. In addition, different reading rooms 
used by over a million people. 


Maintenance fund provided by city for year 1921, 
$312,405.35. 


74 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


No. of branch libraries—9 (7 in permanent buildings 
and 8th soon will be). 


No. of deposit stations—10. 
No. of school rooms supplied with books in 1920—438. 


There are 49 Public Libraries in the State of Wash- 
ington, 9 of which have received the benefit of the 
Carnegie endowment. This fact, coupled with the 
foregoing table, which gives a representative use of all 
libraries (in proportion to the population of the local- 
ity in which it is situated) is almost astonishing when 
we realize the influence a Free Public Library has upon 
the populace. 


Aside from the free reading rooms and the loaning 
departments, the rural circulating library and the mag- 
azine departments, the reference rooms are coming 
more and more in use. The children are specially 
eared for in the juvenile departments where, aside 
from the loaning and research departments, thought 
and care is given to the child mind in the telling of 
stories and oral work out of school hours and during 
vacations. 


One of the noblest achievements of the present 
Library workers is the organized work for the blind. 
There are 1,000 blind persons in the State of Wash- 
ington, and they may receive books in embossed type, 
thru the mails, free of charge. 


The war work, carried on by most of the libraries, 
has developed into a bureau in conjunction with the 
U. S. Employment Bureau, for ex-service men. Thous- 
ands of vocational reading lists have been sent out to 
the men, thereby helping them to prepare themselves 
for positions. 


The men in mining camps and remote logging dis- 
tricts are sent the old readable patched books free; and 
any one living far from the library may, for a small 
sum, have books sent to him by parcel post. 


LIBRARIES 15 


In connection with the library and its benefits, it 
is fitting here to mention the great monument Edward 
S. Curtis has given to the U. S., in his book “The 
North American Indian”. The complete work will 
consist of 20 volumes of illustrated text and 20 port- 
folios of Indian pictures. The work is to be sold at 
$3,000 a set. It has the approval and patronage of 
Pres. Roosevelt, J. Pierpont Morgan, and Andrew Car- 
negie, and that of the officers of the Smithsonian Insti- 
tute at the time of its submission. 


The Americanization work of the library, while the 
newest department in its activities, is very important. 
Night schools, teachers of immigrants, women’s clubs, 
naturalization classes and other organizations have 
come to depend upon the public library—the people’s 
University. 


CHAPTER IX. 


SCHOOLS 


The Pioneers Interested In Schools—Crude Buildings Were Used 
—At Times But Few Scholars—But Foundation Laid For 
Unequalled System—First Public School In Vancouver, 1883 
—Steady Progress Made—Now Fine School Buildings In 
Every Locality—Nearly 300,000 Pupils Receiving Instruc- 
tion—More than 10,000 Teachers In State—High Schools 
Important Branch of Educational Work—In Last Decade a 
Great Increase In Attendance—Washington Second in U. S. 
According To Population—Normal Schools of State Doing 
Splendid Work—Progress the Watchword. 


The Pioneers turned their attention to schools the 
first thing after they had secured a roof on their 
cabins. In one instance, at least, this work was under- 
taken while the family lived in a big stump. I know 
several instances where the family lived in the stump 
of the ancient-growth cedar. I utilized one as an office 
at the Lewis and Clark Fair at Portland in 1905, fifteen 
feet in the clear inside. This was a fir. I have seen 
larger cedars. 


These improvised schools were often attended by but 
a few children and were not so much in the nature of 
“public” as “private” schools. But they served excel- 
lently and were really the beginning of the public schools 
which developed into the unequalled system we have 
today. 


Many of the pioneers, while not illiterate, regretted 
not having a better education, were themselves intent 
upon giving their children a better chance than they had 
had. I knew one who could neither read nor write, even 
his own name, who finally held an important office and 
submitted to be taught to mechanically make a series of 


SCHOOLS 77 


marks to represent his name; this man joined with 
the majority to hasten the day his children could attend 
school. 


Of course, the houses were crude affairs, generally 
log cabins with the clapboard roof that answered for 
the ceiling overhead, sometimes with puncheon floor— 
not often though; in low squat buildings as though 
night overtook the builders before the last round of 
logs were in place. 


The teachers were generally content though salaries 
were ridiculously low, the children eager to learn 
and so the younger generation of that day were 
not illiterate. Those who are living now, 1921, are 
very old men and women, but a great many have joined 
the “Great Majority’. The reader must remember, 
the period covered is three score or more years ago. 


The first public school we have record of in the 
Northwest was opened at Vancouver (now Washing- 
ton) in 1833. John Ball was its teacher. He was 
shortly succeeded by Solomon H. Smith, who taught 
for 18 months. There were 25 pupils enrolled at this 
school and since all grades were indicated, it must have 
been a hard task. 


A. W. Moore opened a school in Olympia, Jan. 1, 
1853. In 1854, Bernard Cornelius established a school 
also in Olympia. 


From July to December of 1854 there was a school 
at Steilacoom taught by Mrs. Sherwood Bonney and 
Miss Eveline Babb. Thirty pupils were enrolled at 
this school. 


In 1854, Mrs. Blaine, wife of a Methodist minister, 
opened a day school in Seattle. Some of Seattle’s 
pioneers tell with a great deal of mirth of this school 
house which was a room in Mrs. Blaine’s cabin accom- 
modating eight or ten pupils. Rev. Daniel Bagley suc- 
ceeded her as teacher and out of this little school really 


78 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


grew the movement which developed the University 
of Washington. Mr. Bagley was a forceful, determined 
minister with a keen zest for educational progress. 
He was chosen chairman of the committee which had 
charge of the building of the University and borrow- 
ing $20 for “office expenses”, he forged ahead with 
the co-operation of the community. 


The first permanent public school building was 
opened in Seattle in 1867 and the Holy Names Academy, 
parent of many of its kind, was established in 1868, 
and later became legally entitled to confer the academic 
degree. 


The first State Board of Education came into life 
when the Territory became a State in 1889. In 1909 
a new code was formed which gave us the present 
(1921) State Board.. This board must consist of 
Supt. of Instruction, Pres. of U. of W., Pres. Washing- 
ton State College, Pres. of one of the Normal Schools 
and three well qualified persons appointed by the 
Governor of the State. 


From the small building of Mr. Bagley’s school to 
the imposing High Schools of today is a long, long way, 
a way of sacrifice and heroic service; but in looking 
back I am glad I had the opportunity of contributing 
my services in this great achievement. 


I have seen business colleges, fraternal schools, kin- 
dergartens and vocational schools springing up every 
place. 


From the beginning of pioneer days, many fine 
institutions of higher education, of a private or denom- 
inational character, have been established in this State, 
such as Whitman College, at Walla Walla, Puget Sound 
University and Whitworth College, Tacoma; Vashon 
College; Colfax College, and the Gonzaga College, Spo- 
kane. 


SCHOOLS 719 


The State School for the Blind was established at 
Vancouver in 1888 and the State Institution for the 
Feeble Minded at Medical Lake in 1905. Both institu- 
tions are under the control of the Board of Public 
Instruction. 


There are 2,554 school districts in the State of 
Washington at this writing (1921) with 7,680 mem- 
bers of boards, prohibited by law to receive pay for 
their services. 


The last registration of pupils (1920) receiving 
instruction in public and private schools shows an 
aggregate of 278,378, with 10,197 teachers. 


There is now (1921) a Normal School for training 
teachers at Cheney, Bellingham, Ellensburg, Pullman 
College, Whitman College, and the State University. 


The sale of school lands was the first medium by 
which funds were provided for school purposes. The 
school law provides a system whereby the state, county 
and school district may tax itself for school funds. 


Besides the public schools and the mediums for 
higher education and the many Catholic institutions of 
learning, there are so many private and vocational 
schools that it seems absurd to think there should be one 
illiterate child #n the whole Northwest. 


By referring to the table which follows, it is shown 
the greater part of teaching in the schools of Wash- 
ington is by women and at a much less salary than 
is paid to men. 


The aggregate salary paid to teachers for the year 
ending June 30, 1920, is $2,487,442.87 to men, and 
$9,343,988.94 to women; a total of $11,831,431.67. 


80 


SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


Average Salary 


Men 


$1,341.00 
1,141.15 
1,261.09 
1,384.81 
1,328.75 
1,170.73 
1,198.48 
1,167.55 
1,068.68 
1,109.50 
1,292.25 
1,092.14 
1,171.66 
1,631.42 
1,184.35 
1,390.00 
2,025.75 
1,256.65 
1,649.89 
1,048.80 
1,291.11 
1,281.36 
1,267.62 
1,123.40 
1,554.64 
982.50 
1,757.15 
908.00 
1,455.51 
1,154.28 
1,532.67 
1,587.08 
1,034.96 
1,357.00 
916.66 
1,602.28 
1,408.70 
1,285.99 
1,530.18 


No. of 
Different Teachers 
Employed 
Counties Men Women 

VAGSIVIG te oi cne.s 15 126 
Asotin ane 20 55 
IBEn ton (ine 22 92 
Cinelan ieee t! 28 178 
Clallam) ire 14 87 
Clarke en acs. 51 202 
Columbia ...... 17 60 
Cowlitz = -......... 19 110 
Douglas _........ 24 21 
Perry hi 6 45 
Franklin © ..... 10 61 
Garfield  .......... 7 43 
Grant Maoh: 21 100 
Grays Harbor 388 260 
island nee 6 45 
Jefferson ........ 10 49 
Win) ae 825 1,751 
WKaitsary aus gene 17 167 
Kettitasi ew 22 155 
Klickitat ..2:.... 24 106 
AGW ES yi heeee cee 67 264 
Tancolnili es 36 195 
Mason t2..2 ae 8 47 
Okanogan ...... 26 170 
Pacifiei 22022 17 132 
Pend Oreille. 9 59 
Pierceneas: 131 728 
San Juan........ 6 25 
Skaciti cee 39 241 
Skamania ...... 7 80 
Snohomish .... 87 427 
Spokane ........ 166 840 
Stevens 2.002... 39 165 
PP Hurstor wipes 37 138 
Wahkiakum . 38 on 
Walla Walla. 35 208 
Whatcom _...... 65 836 
Whitman ...... 78 332 
Yakima’ ........ ie 396 
Totalswucsh: 1,624 8,573 


$1,531.97 


No. of High 


School Teachers 


$ 928.20 15 


829.78 14 
962.72 21 
954.84 44 
947.11 9 
928.50 37 
864.15 10 
818.30 16 
877.38 11 
763.74 4 
989.26 10 
832.97 4 
860.77 10 
1,141.53 50 
801.90 5 
850.66 9 
1,466.88 428 
931.79 20 
1,028.50 34 
843.56 3 
863.26 55 
893.43 82 
830.10 6 
799.02 21 
929.97 24 
834.50 6 
1,164.53 165 
786.00 4 
933.25 45 
841.91 a 


1,046.85 103 
1,129.22 223 


807.67 24 
956.90 27 
839.19 1 
1,129.03 48 
982.39 83 
928.50 fal 
1,040.31 89 


$1,089.93 1,795 


Employed 
Women Total 


Average Salary 


Men 


$1,193.00 
1,269.00 
1,230.00 
1,294.62 
1,500.00 
1,249.27 
1,360.47 
1,035.00 
1,462.50 
1,437.50 
1,300.00 
1,212.50 
1,506.14 
810.00 
1,570.00 
1,929.01 
1,174.53 
1,688.48 
1,275.00 


1,569.74 
1,611.57 
1,330.00 
1,459.00 

855.00 
1,507.69 
1,417.82 
1,292.46 
1,631.85 


$1,617.37 


Women 


$1,110.00 
1,078.75 
1,168.06 
1,131.61 
1,242.57 
1,083.58 
1,055.70 
921.54 
1,159.28 
967.50 
1,182.22 
1,100.00 
1,039.37 
1,384.90 
888.75 
1,004.28 
1,674.52 
1,169.68 
1,180.55 
962.72 
952.40 
1,059.64 
882.00 
1,055.52 
1,036.05 
967.50 
1,363.60 
886.00 
1,124.59 
776.25 
1,219.75 
1,378.09 
1,027.07 
1,089.65 
1,349.21 
1,187.75 
1,080.07 
1,287.23 


$1,303.79 


In the biennial report of Josephine Corliss Preston, 
State Superintendent, for 1919-20, it is shown that the 
total value of school houses and grounds in the State 
amounts to $38,338,564. And of apparatus, furniture 
and books $5,368,704. This is a splendid showing for 
a young state and indicates the progressive spirit that 


animates the people in the matter of education. 


The school census for 1920 showed 363,746 of school 


age and enrollment 290,107. 


February 5th, 1884, the directors of the Seattle 
schools passed and recorded a resolution; “that the 
use of the raw-hide as a means of inflicting corporal 


SCHOOLS 81 


punishment, is hereby forbidden by the Board.” This 
was a step in advance of what I can remember when 
the ferrule was used on the open hand so severely some- 
times as to raise a blister; the brutal teacher holding 
the pupil’s hand rigidly, inflicting the cruel blow 
with his right hand without mercy or compunction. 
Then again, lest we forget, I can remember when the 
“tippling” school master was tolerated and had tippled 
outside the sober point, this from experience as a five 
year old being paddled black and blue by a half-drunken 
Master (I won’t call him teacher), in Ohio eighty-five 
years ago. 


Here’s another item in Seattle school experience: 


“Again, the new school desks did not arrive until 
the Christmas holidays, so that for three months a 
thousand pupils sat on boxes, barrels, kegs, stools,—in 
short, on any and everything ;’—extract from the school 
report to the school directors of Seattle, July 3rd, 1889. 


I can beat that story from my own memory of 
having to sit upon rough saplings, (or logs, shall I say,) 
with legs too long for my legs, leaving my bare feet 
dangling in the air. 


Yes, times have changed; yet we still have the 
growler with us. 


There is, however, another side to the pioneer school 
life. The children were eager to go to school, eager 
to learn, many had to walk a mile, some two miles and 
even three miles to get to the school and that after 
having done up the chores, often involving milking a 
cow or two, getting the wood or other stunts incident 
to farm life. Then they had drawn plenty of fresh 
air into their lungs during the morning hours and 
their long walk and found plenty of it inside the school 
room, rushing in from the cracks between the logs. 
Healthy? Healthy is no name for it; “boiling over” 
with an exuberance of spirit prompting to do most 
anything to “work it off’, even to locking the school 
master out until he would treat. 


82 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


Well, it seems now almost a new world and while 
remembering their pranks we must remember these 
rollicking school girls and boys have made the nation 
what it is, the greatest of any on earth. One great 
saving point, they had the counsels of Father and 
Mother and the lesson of self-reliance in the roughing 
experiences. 


HIGH SCHOOLS 


The High School is a very important branch of our 
educational establishment. No feature of the public 
school system has been undergoing greater curricular 
changes in the last quarter of a century than that of 
the high school. In these years the high school’s func- 
tions have been greatly extended and many of its old- 
time courses changed and modified. Greater freedom 
of election in the kind of studies the pupils wish to 
pursue is now given than formerly; and many of the 
subjects that were mandatory are now optional. This 
is as it should be. When pupils have successfully 
passed through the eight grades of the common school, 
they have arrived at an age well along towards maturity 
and should be accorded the privilege of choosing the 
course of studies that will best fit them for the line 
of activity they intend to follow in the future. Com- 
pelling students to master subjects for which they had 
no taste or aptitude, as was formerly the custom, was a 
most vicious system, and entailed a loss of valuable 
time both to the instructor and the student. 


The increase of high school attendance has com- 
paratively far outstripped the increase of the popula- 
tion of the state. Since 1910 the high school attend- 
ance has increased 114 per cent. Washington now 
ranks second in this respect in the United States. 


During the year 1918-19, there was a high school 
enrollment of 37,317; in 1919-20, 42,419; an increase of 
5,102 in a year. 


The branches which show the greatest ratio of 
increase in the year last past are: French and Spanish, 


SCHOOLS 83 


General Science, Chemistry, Mechanical and Free-hand 
Drawing, and Sociology. The following show a decrease: 
Latin, Political Economy, Physical Geography, Physiol- 
ogy and Botany. In the remaining studies there has 
been practically no change. 


On the whole, the high schools of the state have 
made remarkable progress. 


STATE NORMAL SCHOOLS 


When Washington was admitted to statehood in 
1889, one of the first acts of the legislature, which 
convened the following year, was for the establishment 
of a State Normal School. 


Ellensburg, by reason of being centrally located, 
was chosen as the site for the new institution intended 
for the training and preparation of teachers for our 
public schools. 


Its real beginning as an operating institution was 
made in 1891 in five rooms on the second floor of the 
public school of Ellensburg. 


The faculty consisted of the principal and three 
teachers. 


A very modest beginning certainly. But here as else- 
Where in the state, the march of progress has been 
rapid. There are now seven fine buildings occupied 
in which thorough instruction is being imparted to 
several hundred students destined for future teachers of 
the state. 


The Bellingham Normal was created by Act of the 
Legislature, 1895, and $40,000 appropriated for first 
building; but it was not until 1899 that the school 
was formally opened for work, with an enrollment of 
about 100 students. 


There are now four large and well-equipped build- 
ings occupied besides the central heating plant. 


84 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


Plans for a new women’s dormitory are completed 
and construction will soon begin. It will cost $250,000. 


There is also a Normal School situated at Cheney, 
Eastern Washington, which is developing into a very 
large institution. 


Certificates issued for the last biennium numbered 
867. 


The legislature has established another Normal at 
Centralia, but failed to make the necessary appropria- 
tion for its maintenance, so that it is not yet opened. 


In addition to the schools mentioned, the University 
of Washington and the State College at Pullman, provide 
courses of study for those wishing to follow the teaching 
profession and grant diplomas to such. 


CHAPTER X. 


THE UNIVERSITY OF WASHINGTON 


Washington Proud Of Its University—A Very Modest Beginning 
Obstacles Encountered and Overcome—Its First Location 
Now in Center of Seattle—Present Site Beautifully Situated 
—Imposing Halls and Colleges—Splendid Equipment—E«x- 
cellent Faculty—Students Prepared For Learned Profes- 
sions—Enrollment Increase Phenomenal—Valuable Land En- 
dowments—Future Prospects Loom Large. 


The people of this state have many things for which 
they should be thankful, as well as many of which 
they should feel justly proud. Nature has certainly 
been lavish of her gifts and man has wrought with 
hand and brain to improve and develop the raw material 
with unflagging energy and the application of the most 
consummate judgment and skill. 


In expanse of virgin forests, in unexcelled water 
power, in the number and natural advantages of her 
land-locked harbors, in the fertility of her soil, in the 
beauty and grandeur of her lofty mountains, she stands 
without a peer. 


In the space of the allotted lifetime of a man, since 
the first hardy pioneers began to carve out homes for 
themselves in this new, and, at that time, unsettled 
wilderness, there have sprung up, as by the wand 
of the magician, beautiful and populous cities, humming 
with the industry of hundreds of factories, with wharves 
and piers to which can come in safety, the largest 
ships that traverse the seas. In these also are thous- 
ands of beautiful and artistic homes and commercial 
buildings that can vie with any to be found in far older 
cities. 


86 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


Transportation routes, by rail, by water and by 
hard-surfaced roads are numerous and_ up-to-date. 
Agriculture and horticulture have been carried to a 
high degree of perfection and a school system has been 
developed that is the equal, if not the superior, of 
those of the oldest and wealthiest commonwealths of 
our land. 


These are a few of the things that the people of 
this state have reason to be proud of. But more worthy 
of praise and more lasting in its effects than any of 
these, is the great University which was given birth 
in the little water-front village of Seattle only sixty 
years ago, and which has grown in that short space 
of time to be one of the largest and most important 
seats of learning in the land. 


It was a modest beginning indeed, heralded by no 
sound of trumpets, when the first buildings for this 
infant educational institution were erected on the fringe 
of the wooded hills where is now pretty near the center 
of the commercial life of the great city of Seattle. 
And to think that some of those who helped to grub 
the stumps from around those unpretentious buildings 
are still living here in Seattle, helps to impress upon 
us, how young this seat of learning really is, that is 
destined, under proper management, to be one of the 
main factors in making the State of Washington famous. 


With what prescience these few enthusiastic men 
must have been gifted, to attempt in a little struggling 
burg in the remotest frontiers of civilization, the estab- 
lishment of the foundations of a university for develop- 
ment of higher education. It baffles belief. Yet here 
are their names: Arthur A. Denny and Charles C. Terry, 
who donated the ground, Daniel Bagley, Commissioner 
in charge of the original buildings, and A. S. Mercer, 
the first president and Mrs. O. J. Carr, the first teacher. 


There cannot be found in the history of universities, 
another instance where the start was made under such 


THE UNIVERSITY OF WASHINGTON 87 


adverse conditions. One unique trouble was the diffi- 
culty of finding students willing to take advantage of 
the opportunity offered of acquiring an education. Pres- 
ident Mercer had to visit every logging camp on the 
Sound to try and induce young men to come and enter 
the school. He had great difficulty in getting any to 
respond to the invitation. Finally, securing twelve by 
promising to pay them $1.50 a cord for chopping wood 
on the grounds. A year after the opening, there were 
about sixty pupils in attendance; the majority residents 
of Seattle; the others came from Portland, Victoria and 
Olympia. 


For years it was a hard struggle to keep going at all, 
and in the year 1868, owing to financial and political 
troubles, it was closed for about two years. 


Never did an institution of learning have to contend 
with more serious obstacles than the University of 
Washington in its younger days. Not indeed, until 
within the ten or twelve years last past, was it able to 
assume anything like the commanding position which 
it now holds. 


But from what has been said, it must not be inferred 
that it has attained anything like the high standards 
of culture to be found in those universities which have 
been in existence for centuries. No one should expect 
a University of such youthful years as that of Wash- 
ington to be able to turn out such finished scholars 
in every branch of human knowledge as Paris, Oxford, 
Cambridge, Vienna, Heidelberg, Gottingen or Bologna, 
in Europe; nor as Harvard, Yale and Princeton, in our 
own country. It now has a larger enrollment than many 
of these; but numbers do not necessarily imply excel- 
lence. Perhaps, if entrance were not so easy of attain- 
ment, the result would be better. Entrance to a uni- 
versity was supposed to imply a preparatory course in 
college. Here high-school graduation is deemed suffi- 
cient. 


88 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


But time will right all these minor defects, if they 
are defects. The old Universities of learning have an 
atmosphere, an indefinable something that is felt though 
not seen, that permeates the whole institution and binds 
the alumni in a kind of non-obligation free masonry 
that departs only with life. It takes a long time to 
create this atmosphere in comparatively new institu- 
tions; they have to get along without it. 


Except in the higher branches of scientific or phil- 
osophical research, the Washington University is pre- 
pared to impart a full and sufficient knowledge of every 
branch of learning required in the professions of 
Law, Journalism, Pharmacy, Mining, Business Admin- 
istration, Teaching, Fishery, Fine Arts, Engineering, 
and Forestry. From the beginning, a Preparatory 
School was maintained as a part of the University, 
because a great many of those seeking registration had 
not received adequate instruction in the other schools. 
This was abandoned in 1902. 


From the beginning of the present century, the 
enrollment increased by leaps and bounds. In 1900 
there were about 600 students enrolled, in 1921 upwards 
of 7,000. This is a phenomenal increase. It is very 
doubtful if there is a University on earth that can show 
such a percentage of increase. So much for progress. 


In 1895 it was seen that the location of the Univer- 
sity must be changed. The buildings were becoming old 
and unsuited; more space must be had for the expan- 
sion of the institution; and the city was rapidly build- 
ing up all around it. From the financial standpoint, 
also, there would be a great advantage, by leasing or 
selling the present location and acquiring much cheaper 
property in the suburbs where the University would be 
away from the noise and bustle of commercial activities. 
The change was made and a superb location secured 
which is now covered with imposing and picturesque 
halls and other buildings situated in artistic irregularity 
amongst beautiful trees, surrounded by verdant and 


THE UNIVERSITY OF WASHINGTON 89 


well-kept lawns, bordered with flowers and shrubbery. 
It is indeed a thing of beauty and a joy forever. 


Many of the graduates of this University have 
attained prominence in the professional and business 
world, but the scope of this article will not admit of 
giving a list of these. However, there is one name 
among the number graduating in 1885, that deserves 
especial mention, for to him is owing in no small degree, 
the prominence attained by this young giant among 
the great Universities of America; that graduate is 
Edward S. Meany. He is a part and parcel of the 
institution. Other brilliant and progressive men have 
performed great services in advancing the interests of 
the University; but Professor Meany is more closely 
identified with its growth and development than any 
of the others. His untiring zeal in gathering and pre- 
serving all the historical data connected with the early 
settlement and development of the State of Washington, 
deserves the gratitude of all our citizens. 


There is yet another whose name must not be omit- 
ted for he has ever been actively identified with the 
University as with the city of Seattle. The man who 
sixty years ago helped to clear the site for the Univer- 
sity, Clarence B. Bagley. He was one of the first 
enrolled in the infant institution when there were only 
about thirty scholars in attendance and has lived to 
see it reach the astounding number of more than 7,000 
in 1921. These figures tell the whole story of the rise 
and progress of our famous seat of learning. 


Biennial appropriations also show the vast strides 
made by the University during the past 25 years. Bien- 
nium 1895-6-7, $90,000; biennium 1920-21-22, $2,506,- 
044. No comment is necessary. 


The faculty is composed of men and women of ster- 
ling qualities and high mental attainments and gives 
general satisfaction. Should the same progress be made 
in the next sixty years as in the three score just passed, 


90 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


the enrollment then would reach such an incredible 
number as to be entirely beyond the range of possibil- 
ities. Progress will be made, and great progress, no 
doubt, in the coming years, but in the matter of enroll- 
ment, the ratio of increase in the past can not be 
approached. 


The old university site consisting of ten acres situ- 
ated in the center of the business district of the city 
of Seattle is held under a 47-year lease, bearing date 
of 1907, by the Metropolitan Building Company, bring- 
ing at present $40,000 per annum. This is a very 
valuable piece of property and will unquestionably 
increase greatly in value during the coming years. 


The present campus originally consisted of 341.76 
acres; but from accretions caused by the recession of 
Lake Washington and the “fill” from the dredging oper- 
ations of the Government canal, upwards of a hundred 
acres have been added. 


This has been a very valuable acquisition to the 
university campus, affording an opportunity of making 
the grounds much more attractive than could possibly 
have been done without this additional acreage. 


The magnificent concrete stadium constructed 
through the efforts of the Associated Students of the 
University is a most desirable adjunct to the campus. 


The total value of the University property, at the 
present time, is approximately $10,000,000.00. 


The operation and maintenance of an institution of 
such large proportions necessarily entails a heavy 
annual expenditure; much larger than the income 
derived from its present resources. 


To meet the deficiency the State Legislature every 
biennium appropriates a sum usually sufficient to keep 
all obligations paid up, as well as make provision for 
the inevitable annual increase in operations and main- 
tenance. 


THE UNIVERSITY OF WASHINGTON 91 


At the session of the Legislature last winter the 
question of cutting down expenses in every line, right or 
wrong, seemed uppermost in the minds of the members. 


In accordance with such a program the estimate for 
the University was slashed to such an extent as to 
hamper seriously the efficiency of the institution. 


This is unfortunate. The University is well deserv- 
ing of support and encouragement from the people 
of the state and should not be made to suffer for 
sins of extravagance in other lines. It is to be hoped 
that the next legislature will manifest a more enlight- 
ened consideration for the needs of this great institu- 
tion in equipping mentally the young men and women of 
our commonwealth to meet all the requirements and 
help solve some of the problems of this very progress- 
ive and epochal era. 


CHAPTER XI. 


WASHINGTON STATE COLLEGE 


Known As “Agricultural College’—Illustrates Wonderful Prog- 
ress of This Age—Situated At Pullman—In Very Rich 
Farming Region—Its Timber and Land Endowments Large 
—Valued at $10,000,000—Instruction Given Includes Many 
Subjects—Enrollment About 3,000—Agriculture and Engin- 
eering Featured—Modern Languages and Fine Arts Not 
Neglected. 


The following exhaustive history of the founding, 
progress and scope of the State College at Pullman, 
Washington, known as the “Agricultural College,” viv- 
idly illustrates the wonderful progress of the age in 
which we live. All such institutions of our nation have 
sprung into existence within the life-time of our state, 
and which, be it said, is at the front in aspirations and 
accomplishment with others of the nation at large. 


We “Old Fogies”, as some of the younger generation 
are wont to call the few left of the preceding genera- 
tion, may feel that perhaps the young giant—the Col- 
lege—has wandered far afield from the original design 
of the founders and that their ambition has led them 
into too wide fields of advance studies for the best 
concentration on the work the name implies, “agricul- 
ture.” Be that as it may, this writing is not intended 
as a matured criticism—more as the shadow of a 
thought passing in the brain of an elderly gentleman, 
the survivor with the third generations of average life, 
and of the life of such institutions under review. 


As a citizen of the state I can but express a glow 
of pride when viewing the achievements of the college 
made possible by the zeal of the faculty under the inspi- 
ration of its President and to bid them God speed in 
the good work. 


WASHINGTON STATE COLLEGE 93 


The State College of Washington is located at Pull- 
man, in the heart of one of the richest farming regions 
in the United States. It is about eighty miles south of 
Spokane, on the Northern Pacific and O. W. R. & N. 
railways. 


Though but little more than a quarter of a century 
old, this College ranks among the four or five largest 
educational institutions in the West. Its land and tim- 
ber endowment, not yet fully realized upon, is valued 
at approximately ten millions of dollars. About nine 
acres of floor space are occupied by class rooms and 
laboratories. Nearly three hundred teachers, scientists, 
administrative officers, extension specialists, and other 
employes, were on the employment rolls in 1921. 
There is a 70-acre campus, a nine-acre athletic field, 
and farm and experimental grounds aggregating six 
hundred acres. 


The buildings and equipment have a present vaiue 
in excess of $1,750,000. The instruction given includes 
home economics, mechanic arts and engineering, agri- 
culture, sciences and arts, veterinary science, mining 
engineering, music and fine arts, education, pharmacy, 
military science and tactics, physical education, and 
vocational training in a department of elementary sci- 
ence. The total enrollment in 1921 approximated 3,000 
students, from Washington principally; also from Cen- 
tral and South American countries, the Orient, Europe, 
Palestine, India, and elsewhere. 


This College is one of the “land grant’ institutions, 
so-called, of which there are more than fifty in the 
United States, all founded by the federal Morrill Act 
of 1862. Supplementary legislation broadened the col- 
leges by adding the agricultural experiment stations in 
1887, the “extension service’ in 1914, and, at other 
times, making additional provision for instruction in 
engineering, agriculture, and the sciences and arts. 


More than one hundred agricultural bulletins have 
been published by the agricultural experiment station, 


94 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


mainly as the result of studies covering crop destroyers, 
diseases of plants and animals, soil problems, and in 
fields of applied engineering science—farm and home 
sanitation, highway construction and maintenance, irri- 
gation engineering and reclamation. An extensive 
study undertaken by the department of geology resulted 
in the publication of a book by Dr. Solon Shedd, entitled, 
“The Clays of Washington.” The publication revealed 
the location, quality and uses in manufacture and indus- 
try, of many native Washington clays. The school of 
mining has made a survey of the mining resources of 
Washington. 


The State College of Washington and its sister 
institutions the nation over, combine investigation and 
teaching. Agricultural students, for example, are 
taught more from the soil, plants, and developing plant 
and animal life generally, than from books. A new 
truth discovered in the experiment station laboratory 
means a new truth available for the students. The 
same holds for the engineering students, particularly 
those whose work takes them through the mines, the 
electrical and waterpower plants, and other large 
engineering projects of the state. 


“HWngineering and agriculture” are held to be of like 
importance in the founding act of the land grant 
colleges—the First Morrill Act, of 1862—and are so at 
the State College of Washington. The new Mechanics 
Arts Building in form and outward appearance dupli- 
cates James Wilson Hall, the new agricultural building. 
The courses in engineering are strong and well devei- 
oped, including civil, electrical, hydro-electrical, mining, 
mechanical and automobile engineering. The ex- 
pansion in mechanical engineering is _ particularly 
marked in recent years, particularly as relating to auto- 
mobiles, farm tractors, and all kinds of farm machinery. 
“Chemical engineering” is of comparatively recent devel- 
opment among the great engineering sciences, to which 
the State College and its sister universities and colleges 
throughout the country are so strongly devoted. It is 


WASHINGTON STATE COLLEGE 95 


simply an application of chemical science to manufac- 
turing and productive industry of many kinds, and 
holds splendid opportunities for ambitious young men 
and women. 


Though stressing engineering and agriculture the 
State College of Washington and its kind do not by 
any means exclude the liberal arts and sciences. The 
State College has a strong school of music which is 
well attended. From the School of Music springs, 
naturally, the College “Glee Club” and various choruses 
and musical organizations. 


Also, there is at this institution, a department of 
foreign languages. Spanish and French are rapidly 
expanding courses, Spanish particularly, the latter 
expansion looking, probably, to the increasing commer- 
cial contact of America and the Latin nations south. 
There is an equally strong department of English which 
emphasizes training in public speaking and journalism. 
The course in geology is well established, and has made 
a good record with its graduates. 


At the present time there is hardly a town of any 
size in Washington but that has in it one or more gradu- 
ates of the State College’s school of pharmacy, either 
as drugstore employee, manager, or proprietor. The 
college of veterinary science is nearly as well repre- 
sented. There are nearly two hundred teachers of 
manual training in Washington and the Northwest, of 
State College training. In languages, science, agricui- 
ture, athletics, and other lines of teaching, the total 
number of W. S. C.-trained teachers is much larger. 
Recently the department of physical education undertook 
the training of teachers of athletics for the public 
schools of Washington, which by law are required to 
give work of this kind. 


The “extension service’ added by the Smith-Lever 
Act of 1914, now has .departments and ramifications 
which reach to practically every city, town, neighbor- 
hood, and home—particularly rural homes—in Washing- 


96 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


ton. The teaching and demonstration of this depart- 
ment are conducted cooperatively with the U. S. depart- 
ment of agriculture, the plan in Washington being 
duplicated in every state. In Washington the extension 
service operates through the county agricultural agents, 
the home demonstration agents—field workers in home 
economics—the boys’ and girls’ clubs, the extension 
schools, the farm management and demonstration ser- 
vice, and correspondence courses. 


Quite recently a new “general college extension” ser- 
vice was founded, which includes teaching other than 
agricultural. This department operates in four depart- 
ments of non-agricultural extension teaching which are 
first, that of educational moving picture films and stere- 
opticon slides; second, the department of correspondence 
courses, including American government and politics, 
journalism, vocational education, methods of teaching 
agriculture, “the high school”, general psychology, sci- 
entific methods of study, social psychology, elementary 
algebra, shop mathematics, practical woodworking, sec- 
ond year French, college algebra and “the junior high 
school.” 


The engineering experiment station of the State 
College uses the services of nearly a score of engineering 
specialists, and is continuing, extending, and adding to 
work in engineering investigation which touches upon 
many different fields of applied engineering sciences. 


Another line of engineering study involves experi- 
mental work on the fundamental principles underlying 
the design of carburetors; another, a mathematical anal- 
ysis of the technical and economic relations involved in 
the prevention of loss by radiation from steam pipes. 
These, as are the other engineering “projects” now in 
hand at the State College, are deeply scientific, even 
though bearing upon problems of a most practical 
nature. 


Other fields of engineering investigation are, the 
experimental development of certain refinements in 


WASHINGTON STATE COLLEGE i 


electrical measuring instruments; studies of road build- 
ing materials of Washington; and the preparation of a 
popular bulletin on the use of hoists and tackle in 
the industries of Washington. 


The engineering laboratories are equipped with stan- 
dard instruments for checking a wide range of elec- 
trical measuring instruments and for chemical and 
physical tests of almost any industrial materials, includ- 
ing coal, timber, cement, and building materials of all 
sorts; and for physical, chemical and metallographic 
analyses and tests of metals, and for complete studies of 
road-building materials. Many engineering bulletins 
have been published as the result of the engineering 
studies made at the State College in the last two 
decades, and they relate to home and farm sanitation, 
water, electrical power developments, road _ building, 
drainage, irrigation, and practical uses of electricity. 


CHAPTER XII. 


STATE INSTITUTIONS 


Twelve Institutions Maintained By State—How Managed— 
Results Achieved—Rapid Growth—Brief Sketch of Origin 
and Progress. 


The Board of Trustees of the State Reform School, 
Western Hospital for the Insane and State Soldiers’ 
Home, and the Board of Directors of the State Peni- 
tentiary were abolished by the Legislature in March, 
1897, and a State Board of Audit and Control created 
to replace them. 


Again, in 1901 the Legislature changed the system 
of managing the State institutions and created a Board 
of Control having a complete jurisdiction over all state 
institutions which has functioned up to 1921. 


In the new system established by the last legislature 
(1920-21) a department consisting of one director and 
assistants will henceforth direct, manage and control 
every one of the following named institutions: 


Western State Hospital. State School of Deaf. 
Eastern State Hospital. State School of Blind. 
Northern State Hospital. State Penitentiary. 
State Custodial School. State Training School. 
State Soldiers’ Home. State School for Girls. 


Washington Veterans Home. State Reformatory. 


Twenty years ago there were only six public insti- 
tutions maintained by the state; now there are twelve. 


In 1914 the value of all buildings under manage- 
ment of the Board of Control was $5,771,250; in 1921, 
$9,043,661. 


STATE INSTITUTIONS 99 


In all these institutions farming is carried on, prin- 
cipally by the inmates, whereby a large percentage of 
the vegetables, meats, dairy and poultry products, as 
well as fruits, necessary for the various institutions, are 
produced. 


Both the School for the Blind and School for Girls 
have been under women Superintendents for several 
years. In 1920, however, the School for Blind was 
placed in charge of a male superintendent. The Wo- 
men’s Industrial Home and Clinic was in charge of a 
woman up to the time of its closing by reason of gov- 
ernor’s veto of appropriation. 


Where women have been in charge they have been 
exceptionally successful. 


It is deemed important in connection with the scope 
and purpose of this volume to give a short sketch of 
the origin and progress of each of these worthy and 
necessary institutions. 


WESTERN STATE HOSPITAL 


Wherever human beings exist individuals will be 
found who from one cause or another become bereft of 
their reasoning faculties and thereby become in con- 
formity with the common instincts of humanity, entitled 
to the watchful care and custody of their fellows who 
suffer from no such affliction. 


More than a century ago when this northwestern 
country was yet a wilderness almost untrodden by the 
foot of a white man, we read the story of an unfortunate 
trapper who lost his mind in the Rocky Mountains. 


In 1803 an American fur trader was operating some- 
where in the Rocky Mountains. One of his houses was 
attacked by Indians and all the occupants, except one 
man, were killed. 


This man, wandering about through the hills and 
valleys of the desolate region suffering from exposure 


100 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


and the loss of his companions, became demented. In 
this condition he was found by some Indians who took 
him to their camp and cared for him for years, always 
treating him with the greatest consideration, believing 
that he was, in some mysterious way, in closer touch 
with the unseen powers than normal people. In this 
condition he was found by some of the members of 
the John Jacob Astor Fur Co., in 1810, while on an 
expedition on the Columbia River. The man’s name 
was Pelton. The Indians having no name for demented 
and thinking that “pelton” was descriptive of the man’s 
condition, they adopted the word and it is now found in 
the Chinook dictionaries as signifying ‘“‘crazy.” They 
eall a silly or foolish woman “pelton-clootchman.” 
Other cases of insanity soon appeared in the territory 
and a contract was entered into with the Sisters of 
Charity, at Vancouver, to care for the insane at the 
rate of $8.00 per head per week. 


In 1870 the legislature purchased: old Fort Steila- 
coom for $850. Some time afterwards the land on 
which it was situated was granted to the Territory by 
Congress. In 1871 the Asylum was opened, and in 
1887 the old structure was replaced by a new building. 


The name was changed to “Western State Hospital’ 
in 1915. 


The institution is now composed of many large and 
imposing buildings surrounded by beautiful and weli- 
kept grounds, and has in connection a highly improved 
farm. It is fully equipped to take care of the inmates 
in the most thorough and up-to-date manner. 


The property is valued at $726,046. 
Daily number of inmates, 1920, 1,344. 


EASTERN STATE HOSPITAL FOR INSANE 


In January, 1888, the town of Medical Lake donated 
the land for the hospital site. The Legislature appro- 
priated $60,000 for the building; and in 1902 a new 


STATE INSTITUTIONS 101 


wing was built at a cost of $45,000 and an infirmary 
at a cost of $4,000. Since that time the buildings have 
been greatly enlarged and improved. The present daily 
number of inmates is 1,171. 


The farm comprises a tract of 934 acres which fur- 
nishes a large part of the food supply for the inmates. 


NORTHERN STATE HOSPITAL 


This institution is beautifully located a little more 
than a mile north of the town of Sedro-Woolley close 
to the N. P. R. R. The buildings are on the cottage 
plan and are very attractive. A tract of about 1,056 
acres of excellent logged-off land was purchased for 
the institution in 1909. 


It is being rapidly cleared and put in cultivation 
principally by labor of the inmates. The daily number 
of inmates is now 876. 


More buildings are needed to prevent overcrowding. 


It is under first-class management. 


STATE CUSTODIAL SCHOOL 


Until 1906, the feeble-minded, blind and deaf chil- 
dren of the state were taken care of at the School for 
Defective Youth, at Vancouver. They were then seg- 
regated and the feeble-minded given a separate school 
at Medical Lake called the ‘State Custodial School.” 
The thinking people of the state long felt the injustice 
of neglecting those who were unable to care for them- 
selves while making lavish expenditures for the educa- 
tion and welfare of those who suffered from no such 
disadvantage. 


The school buildings have been rebuilt on the cottage 
plan and now have a capacity of 800. The present num- 
ber of inmates is 594. 


102 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


STATE SOLDIERS’ HOME, ORTING 
This institution for the old soldiers was built in 1890. 


The property was then valued at $106,830. The 
members now number 240. The grounds are well kept 
and the atmosphere is as homelike as could be expected 
in an institution of that character. 


Those of the members physically fit have to take 
part in cultivating the land and taking care of the crops. 


The barracks building cost $91,000 and is one of the 
best in the State. 


WASHINGTON VETERANS’ HOME, RETSIL 


The Veterans’ Home was built in 1907, on a tract of 
land comprising 75 acres. Veterans and their wives 
live here in cottages and apartments, and the widows 
of Veterans also have homes here. 


Daily average number of inmates 459. 


SCHOOL FOR THE DEAF, VANCOUVER 


At an early date a school for the care of the deficient 
children was established at Vancouver where blind and 
deaf were cared for together with the infirm of all 
descriptions. The mentally deficient were removed to 
Medical Lake in 1906, when the State Custodial School 
was established there for the care of the feeble-minded, 
while the blind and deaf were still kept under one 
management. 


In 1909 the School for the Deaf was established and 
ever since they have been kept by themselves. 


The present number of pupils is 101. 


The average cost per head for the deaf in the 64 
institutions for that purpose in the U. S. is $390 per 
annum. Our school costs the State $290 per head per 
annum. 


STATE INSTITUTIONS 103 


The silent or manual system of speech for the deaf 
and the oral speech method used in different parts of 
the world, after much controversy were merged into 
the American combined system. It is a most interesting 
sight to see the students singing a hymn by signs while 
the music is being played. The children help to farm 
and do gardening, but work done by them is voluntary. 
A regular graded system of school work is carried out, 
with extra emphasis placed on manual training and the 
arts and crafts that will make self-supporting citizens 
in spite of the handicap of not being able to hear. 


SCHOOL FOR BLIND, VANCOUVER 


In 1909 the blind were segregated from the deaf 
and domiciled in their own splendid buildings which 
will bear favorable comparison with similar institutions 
in older and wealthier states. All expenses incurred 
in the care and custody of the blind children of the 
State are met by the State, and a school for adults in 
the summer adds variety as well as usefulness to the 
institution. Various kinds of handicraft are taught 
here and some of the brooms made by the children are 
used by other institutions of the State. The record 
for good health among the blind children and the spirit 
of optimism prevailing among them are really wonderful 
and elicit the admiration of those who investigate con- 
ditions along these lines. 


The music department is given special attention, 
as it may be an important factor in the life of the child. 
It is under the direction of H. P. Demming, a blind 
graduate of the Perkins Institute. At Easter time, 
1920, the new organ was installed, to the great delight 
of the children. Francois Richter, of Portland, master 
organist, assisted by Margaret Carney, both blind, gave 
a grand concert. 


Some of the graduates of the blind school are doing 
splendid work in behalf of their fellows, as for instance. 
Robt. Irwin, who after graduating from Harvard Uni- 


104 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


versity, was called to Cleveland, Ohio, and made super- 
visor of classes for the blind in the high schools there. 
Others from our school for the blind have graduated 
from Universities and been an honor to the institutions. 
This is simply to show that blindness after all is not 
such a handicap as one might suppose. 


All the blind ask is an opportunity to fit themselves 
for self support and usefulness. 


The average daily attendance is 41. 


STATE PENITENTIARY, WALLA WALLA 


In 1883 a Territorial Commission was appointed for 
selecting a site for a Penitentiary. Prior to that time 
there were prisons of a kind in many of the counties 
and the Territorial legislature let a contract to a private 
company to build a penitentiary at what is now known 
as Bucoda, Thurston County, for the keep and employ- 
ment of convicts, under the system commonly known 
as “farming out.” 


The contract system was continued for several years 
but was neither creditable to the Territory nor beneficial 
to the unfortunate inmates. Its abandonment meant 
progress. 


Walla Walla having been selected as the most desir- 
able location for a penitentiary, in 1886 the first build- 
ing was erected there at a cost of $60,000. From time 
to time ever since improvements have been made and 
new buildings added until it has become a very large and 
imposing bastile. 


The outside appearance is quite attractive and the 
grounds outside the walls and around the residence of 
the warden are beautifully kept. But through lack 
of sufficient funds the sanitary condition of the insti- 
tution, not being modern, is not what it should be. War- 
den Drum did everything possible to make the institu- 
tion up-to-date, but through lack of sufficient appropria- 


STATE INSTITUTIONS 105 


tion his hands were tied. In his last report he says 
that owing to inadequate appropriation, he was unable 
to keep the inmates decently clothed and felt ashamed 
when visitors came to the place at the appearance of his 
wards in ragged raiment. 


These conditions should be remedied, so that the 
state in this as in other matters should be in the 
vanguard of progress. 


The Jute Mill, where the greater part of the inmates 
are kept employed, is 303 feet long by 174 feet wide. 


The auditorium, or chapel, will seat L025 Uae Le 
present number of inmates is 608. 


Up to 1914 there were 945 prisoners paroled under 
the indeterminate sentence act, 106 left the state, 31 
returned, and 93 violated their parole and were returned. 


100 prisoners have been committed to the insane 
asylum in the past 20 years. From 1901 to 1913," 15 
suffered the death penalty for first degree murder. 


The institution has cost the State to this date 
$2,149,189. The expenses are continually increasing. 


In the 1918-19 report Warden Drum SOV eS Ohne th 
would be some encouragement to society to believe that 
the prisons were to some degree accomplishing their 
intended purpose. However, a very casual examination 
into the condition dispels any rising hope that such 
was the case. 


“There is neither a promise nor a justified hope 
that the future generations will have less crime to 
contend with by reason of continuing our present non- 
effective methods of handling prisoners.” 


This grave summing-up of conditions by so compe- 
tent and conscientious a citizen as Warden Drum should 
prompt our thinking people to take energetic action 
towards a better system—a system tending to the reform 
of the prisoners and lessening crime and safeguarding 
our threatened institutions by the continued increase 
of crime. 


106 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


STATE TRAINING SCHOOL, CHEHALIS 


The name of “Washington State Reform School’ 
was changed in 1907 to that of “Washington State 
Training School.” At that time the legislature passed 
the indeterminate sentence act, and established a sys- 
tem whereby the first consideration could be given to 
youthful criminals, or what might be termed incor- 
rigible boys over whom their parents were powerless 
to exercise any control. These youthful delinquents 
being placed in an institution of this kind where strict 
discipline is maintained and attractive work of a 
beneficial nature both to the inmate and the institu- 
tion provided, naturally leads to a gradual development 
of the better qualities of their natures and inspires 
them with a desire to abandon their wayward habits 
and become useful and law-abiding citizens. The advan- 
tages of acquiring a good education are also afforded 
these boys which they seem to appreciate, judging by 
the number who have graduated every year from the 
eighth grade. 


A high school department had also been inaugurated 
with a membership of 40 boys. 


This school has an excellent band which is a source 
of pride and pleasure to the institution. 


Shop-line industries are taught here as well as 
farming and gardening by practical methods. 


The average number of inmates in daily attendance 
is 287. 


STATE SCHOOL FOR GIRLS, GRAND MOUND 


This school was opened in 1913 for the care and 
custody of girls who have wandered from the straight 
and narrow path in order that they may be reclaimed 
from their vicious tendencies and be transformed into 
useful and creditable members of society. The present 
number of inmates is 107. 


STATE INSTITUTIONS 107 


The girls do their own farming with the exception of 
plowing; cut their own wood; raise their own garden 
stuff, sew, crochet and attend school half a day. The 
special courses given fit the girls for vocations they 
desire to follow after leaving the institution. 

The girls have concerts and musicales and all sorts 
of wholesome fun and the morale of the institution is 
said to be excellent. The intention of the founders 
was to have a separate room for each girl, but owing 
to the lack of space this has not been carried out. How- 
ever, the girls are not crowded and life is as homelike 
as it can be made. 


STATE REFORMATORY, MONROE 


This institution is in all respects very similar to the 
Penitentiary as to management and discipline. It was 
designed for the incarceration of youthful and first- 
offending criminals, so that they might not have to 
mix and associate with the older and more hardened 
offenders confined in the Penitentiary. Lack of funds 
has been felt as keenly here as at some of the other 
state institutions. 

There is an extensive farm in connection with the 
institution, of which 115 acres are now intensively cul- 
tivated. More than half the subsistence for the entire 
populations, both officers and inmates, is now taker 
from the land. 


WOMEN’S INDUSTRIAL HOME AND CLINIC, 
MEDICAL LAKE 


In 1920 a group of buildings formerly occupied 
by the Custodial School was refitted and remodeled to 
accommodate 68 women. 

This institution was established by enactment of the 
legislature of 1919, and opened for commitments on 
Sept. Ist, 1920. There is a garden and fifteen acres 
in berries belonging to the home. 

While the home is just in its infancy it has already 
given promise of being a very useful addition to the 
other progressive institutions of our State. 


CHAPTER XIII. 


THE CAMP FIRE GIRLS 


Organization Perfected—Its Policies and Principles—Purposes 
—New in Washington—Rapid Growth—In Summer Camps 
—Program For Day—Blue Birds—Nestlings—Costumes— 
Now In Infancy—Bright Future. 


The Organization of the Camp Fire Girls, National 
in its scope, was first perfected in New York City with 
Prof. Luther Gulick as its head, in 1910. From that 
time it has spread throughout the country. 


It is similar to the Boy Scouts, adapted to the needs 
of girls of all ages, non-sectarian in its principles and 
strictly not a “class” organization. 


It appeals to all wholesome-minded girls, regardless 
of financial station in life. All honors are awarded 
strictly upon individual merit. 


It gives the girls a much-needed opportunity of a 
few weeks of life outdoors in camps, coupled with 
instruction, which makes the camp life of inspirational 
value to the girl. There, in bloomers and blouse, she 
may be natural, creative and free. 


PURPOSE No. 1. 


To make our future women better American citizens. 


METHODS OF ACCOMPLISHMENT 


1. Teaching the fundamentals of the United States 
Constitution and the general principles underlying our 
form of government. 


THE CAMP FIRE GIRLS 109 


2. Teaching the value of co-operation and stimulat- 
ing its practice. 


3. Inculeating a sense of true Democracy. 


4. Cultivating the habit of thrift and encouraging 
the spirit of self-support. 


5. Instilling in the individual girl a sense of respon- 
sibility toward society and the need for unselfishness 
and service to others. 


PURPOSE NO. 2. 


To inculcate in girls a love for the out-of-doors, 
with its sequence of mental and physical vigor. 


METHODS OF ACCOMPLISHMENT 


1. Knowledge of nature lore and camp craft. 


2. Participation in outdoor sports (hiking, swim- 
ming and games). 


PURPOSE No. 3. 


To improve the quality of American home life. 


METHODS OF ACCOMPLISHMENT 


1. Stimulating a love for good housekeeping, cook- 
ing, sewing and care of little children through a system 
of awards to those who excel. 


2. Teaching them the value of beauty in home 
surroundings. 


3. Instruction in sanitation and personal hygiene. 


The Camp Fire Girls were organized in Seattle, 
Wash., July, 1919, with less than a hundred members 
and grew so rapidly that in 1920 the membership had 
increased to 1,000. April 1, 1921, shows a registration 
of 1,725 members with 115 groups each having an 
older girl or woman for leader. 


110 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


The Office was established Oct. 16, 1920, which is 
the general meeting place of the girls and their guard- 
ians. The fact that 2,500 visitors registered at the 
office between Oct. 16, 1920, and April, 1921, shows 
the interest the movement has drawn about itself. 


Classes are held in First Aid and all useful hand 
crafts, and new groups are constantly being organized. 


In 1920 the summer camp on Blake Island during 
ten weeks operation gave outings to 650 girls in relays 
of about 1380 every two weeks. 


The total cost of building, equipment and main- 
tenance of the Camp was $8,776.95. The total donations 
received amounted to $38,103.50, leaving a balance of 
$5,673.45 to be raised by the girls themselves. 


This was met by funds earned through a vaudeville 
entertainment staged by Camp Fire girls, sales of 
candy and other commodities, supplemented by board 
of 85 cents a day paid by the girl campers. Careful 
management made possible the payment of all expenses 
and a net balance of $456.54 now on hand. 


The program for the day in summer camps varies 
according to the weather and the specific needs of the 
girls. The following sketch will be found interesting. 
It is the program of the Seattle Camp Fire Girls in 
their camp, 1920. 


6:40—Rising bugle. 

6:45—Morning dip. 

7:20—Setting up. 

7:40—Non-sectarian morning “sing” and the Lord’s 
Prayer. 

8 :00—Breakfast. 

9:00—Clean up tents. 

9:30—Games (basket ball, base ball, hiking, rowing, 
each group under a teacher specially trained 
for that particular line of instruction). 

10:30—Folk dancing, interpretive dancing, basketry 
and pottery. 


THE CAMP FIRE GIRLS 111 


11:30 to 12:30 free. 
12 :30—Dzinner. 
1 to 2—Quiet hour. 
2 to 3—Ceremonial gown decoration and count book. 
3 to 4—F ree. 
5:00—Campfire songs. 
6 :00—Supper. 


The quiet hour is observed in napping and there is 
no talking after taps at 9:30. Every evening the girls 
arrange a different social program. Probably the most 
inspiring sight of all is to see a crowd of these young 
women, with their faces turned toward the setting sun, 
singing the last verse of “Nearer my God to Thee”, 
followed by taps. 


To Miss Mary Hughes, Mrs. Ann Simmons, Miss 
Clifford Kent, Miss Myra Snow and Miss Blanche Smith 
should be tendered a grateful appreciation for the 
pioneering they did, as well as to Miss Ruth A. Brown, 
the Executive Secretary of the Camp Fire Girls in the 
Puget Sound country. 


The Blue Birds are the girls too young to become 
Camp Fire Girls. The organization is the younger sister 
of the Camp Fire Girls and fills a long felt need in 
the entertainment of the younger girls in an instructive 
manner. 


The Blue Birds are all under twelve years. Their 
Motto is “Blue Birds Sing, Blue Birds Help, Blue 
Birds Grow.” Their Watchword is, “Si-He-Gro,” a 
word having an Indian sound, but simply made up of 
the first parts of the words Sing, Help, and Grow. A 
group is called a “Nest” and the girls beginning as 
“Nestlings,” progress to “Fledglings’” and then to 
“Flyers.” 


A simple little dress of grey galatea, with feathers 
of blue and brown and greyish-white, added as they 
sing and help and grow, is their effective costume. 
The Fledglings wear a little blue cap. The Flyers, a 


112 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


pair of wings. The Honorable Maurice Maeterlinck, 
who originated the Blue Bird for Happiness, is the 
Honorary Vice-President of the Camp Fire Girls and 
Blue Birds. 


Any guardian of a Camp Fire group may start a 
nest and its activities will depend entirely upon the 
ideas of the trained guardian. 


The Blue Birds have a simple, effective little cere- 
mony and each Bird has a symbol which she works out 
with her guardian. It is just as important to her and 
stands for just as much in her little heart as the 
Square and Compass do to the Mason. 


While the Seattle Camp Fire Girls lead the North- 
west in numbers and activities, there are many flourish- 
ing groups in all parts of the State. Everett, Tacoma 
and North Yakima are particularly active. 


The Camp Fire Girls have just secured the location 
for a permanent summer camp on Vashon Island, Wash- 
ington. 


The property, a heavily wooded strip of waterfront 
containing 158 acres, boasts of a good dock, five springs 
and a splendid bathing beach. Besides the 17 houses, 
14 of which have fire-places, Sec. Ruth Brown is on 
the ground with 20 carpenters, building several dozen 
tents for the opening of the summer camp. 


The ceremonies of the Camp Fire Girls are very 
beautiful, dignified and inspirational. 


The Camp Fire Girl, having served her time faith- 
fully, becomes a Woodgatherer and thereby promises: 


“I will strive to grow strong like the pine tree, 
To be pure in my deepest desire; 

To be true to the truth that is in me 
And follow the Law of the Fire.” 


After attainments involving months of work she 
may become a Fire Maker. This is the desire of the 
Fire Makers: 


THE CAMP FIRE GIRLS 113 


“As fuel is brought to the fire 
So I purpose to bring— 
My strength, 
My ambition, 
My Heart’s desire 
My Joy, and 
My sorrow 
To the fire of Human-kind; 
For I will tend as my fathers have tended 
And my father’s father 
Since time began 
That fire which is called 
The Love of Man for Man, 
The Love of Man for God.” 


A girl may become a “Torch Bearer” after she has 
shown the real powers of Craftsmanship and worked 
her way painstakingly into the order. 


The Torch Bearer’s Desire is: 


“The Light that has been given to me I desire to pass 
Undimmed to others.” 


The organization is just in its infancy. It bids fair 
to attain a glorious maturity! 


CHAPTER XIV. 


THE Boy Scouts 


In reviewing the many progressive movements of our 
day, one of the most important, in our estimation, is 
that of the “Boy Scouts” of America. Its aims and 
purposes undoubtedly tend towards the betterment of 
the physical and moral condition of the young men 
of this as well as of succeeding generations. And 
what can be of more importance than that. 


It seems necessary in touching upon the subject of 
the “‘Boy Scouts” to disabuse the erroneous idea enter- 
tained by a great many people that the Boy Scout 
movement is of a quasi-military character. This im- 
pression no doubt has arisen from the boys having 
to undergo a certain amount of disciplinary training 
and don a uniform of military cut. But that is as 
far as it goes in assuming a military character. Its 
instructors do not advocate or extol the profession of 
bearing arms. On the contrary pains are taken to 
inculeate the principle that to become a useful mem- 
ber of society the boy must become proficient in the 
arts of civil life so that he can not only advance his 
own interests but at the same time be a benefactor 
of society. This is deemed a much more honorable pur- 
suit than fitting oneself to scientifically slay his fellow- 
man. Why, the opposition to militarism is so strong 
that the practice of giving military instruction in the 
schools is disapproved. 


Notwithstanding the emphatic opposition of the 
organization towards imbuing the minds of the youth 
of the nation with the military spirit, yet should 
the dire necessity arise when young men would be 
called upon to take up arms in defence of their country, 
or in any just conflict, it is unquestionably true that 


THE BOY SCOUTS 115 


those who have undergone the boy scout training will 
be better equipped to fill the requirements of the mil- 
itary service than those who have not had that advant- 
age. 


The Boy Scout movement had its origin during the 
Boer War. In that memorable conflict there were 
many displays of gallantry and grit by both the 
contending forces, not the least of which was the 
remarkable defence of Mafeking by a small number 
of British soldiers under General Baden-Powell, against 
a superior number of besieging Boers. During that 
protracted and terrible siege, the British force was 
reduced to the direst extremities. The incessant duties 
of the soldiers in defending the town were so arduous 
that Baden-Powell was constrained to call for help 
from the boys of the town. They responded with 
alacrity. 


Many of the duties which the soldiers had been 
performing, such as carrying water and fuel and bear- 
ing messages were assumed by the boys and performed 
in a very satisfactory manner, leaving the soldiers 
free to give their undivided attention to repelling the 
attacks of the enemy. The usefulness of the boys in 
this emergency, when brought under proper manage- 
ment, so impressed Baden-Powell with the possibilities 
to be attained by a large number of boys ranging from 
twelve to fifteen years, that, at the close of the war, 
he resigned his commission, and took up the work of 
organizing the boys of Great Britain on a large scale. 


That war, also, developed the fact that the British 
“Tommy”, being recruited in great part from the 
denizens of the big cities, was perfectly helpless to take 
proper care of himself when thrown upon his own 
resources in a sparsely settled and frontier region. 
This incapacity greatly impeded successful military 
movements and prolonged the war. 


All these considerations influenced Baden-Powell in 
taking up the work of organizing Boy Scouts, so that 


116 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


the future young men of the nation might become more 
resourceful and conversant with all the requirements of 
an active outdoor life. He is still at the head of the 
movement in Great Britain. 


In 1910, through the efforts of a wealthy Chicago 
man named Bryce, the Boy Scout movement was 
introduced into the United States. Here, although 
resembling the parent organization in Britain, it has 
become Americanized and improved like everything 
adopted from the British Isles. Money in liberal amount 
was donated to pay the necessary office help and 
headquarters established in Washington, D. C., with 
Colin M. Livingstone as executive head of scouts and 
James E. West executive secretary, who still holds that 
position. 


In May, 1911, through the efforts of Josiah Collins, 
the Boys Scouts movement was organized in Seattle and 
Major E. S. Ingraham was appointed first Secretary, 
which position he held continuously for seven years, 
part of the time without any salary and the remainder 
with only a mere pittance. Still he devoted himself heart 
and soul to the work, because he was a firm believer 
in the great good that would be accomplished by the 
growth of the organization in the state. It is now 
fulfilling his fondest hopes, although, officially, he is 
not, at the present time, connected with the organiz- 
ation. 


The Park Board and Rotary Club, in addition to 
some public-spirited citizens have contributed towards 
defraying the necessary expenses of the headquarters. 
The scoutmasters give their time gratis. 


There are now upwards of 1200 members in Seattle 
and some 5000 in the State. 


The Seattle scouts have a permanent camp of 160 
acres at Jackson Cove, on the west side of Hood’s 
Canal and at the base of the Olympic mountains. It is 
beautifully located and well fitted up and the boys spend 
a delightful time there during the summer months. 


THE BOY SCOUTS 117 


There are camps with paid executives at Spokane, 
Tacoma, Bellingham and Everett and other towns in 
the State are now preparing to have camps established. 


There are upwards of half a million boy scouts now 
in the U. S. and increasing rapidly in numbers. During 
the war they proved themselves very efficient in contrib- 
utory work, aiding the Red Cross, selling bonds, ete. 
More than a million dollars worth of liberty bonds were 
sold by the boys. They seemed to be able to reach 
people that no other agency could approach. Their 
intelligent and conscientious work during that trying 
period has elicited the highest praise from represent- 
ative men in every walk of life in the nation. 


Theodore Roosevelt was so impressed by the great 
good that he foresaw the scout movement was destined 
to accomplish, that, had he lived, he would have been 
tendered, and in all probability would have accepted the 
leadership of the movement. His premature death pre- 
vented the fruition of this desirable consummation. But 
the movement has got the inherent qualities within 
itself to move forward alone without the aid of any 
commanding personality, however desirable such a stim- 
ulus might be. 


A flood of light is thrown upon the aims and pur- 
poses of the Boy Scout movement by perusing the oath 
taken by the boy when he enters the ranks. Here it is: 

“On my honor I will do my best— 


“1. To do my duty to God and my country and obey 
the Scout laws; 


“2. To help other people at all times; 
“3. To keep myself physically strong, mentally awake 
and morally straight.” 


Character development is the real objective of the 
Boy Scout movement. 


Scoutcraft includes: Instruction in First Aid, Life 
Saving, Tracking, Signaling, Cycling, Nature Study, 


118 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


Seamanship, Campcraft, Woodcraft, Chivalry and all 
of the handicrafts. 


A knowledge of these things makes the boy both 
efficient and self-reliant. His initiative gives him the 
power to overcome all ordinary obstacles encountered in 
outdoor life. His self-assurance compels success. The 
obligation that binds him to do at least one good turn 
daily is worthy of commendation. He must be so help- 
ful as at all times to be prepared to save life and help 
injured persons. 


He is courteous, friendly and kind, even to dumb 
brutes and hurts no living creature needlessly. In 
addition to these he is taught the benefit of being thrifty; 
and in order to advance in the organization he must 
have a small deposit of at least a dollar or two in 
a Savings Bank, of money earned by himself. 


These are a few of the things inculcated and prac- 
tised in scoutcraft, and who can say that they are not 
essential in the development of a manly character. 
All praise to the Boy Scouts! May they multiply and 
prosper. 


CHAPTER XV. 


THE AMERICAN RED CROSS 


“The Greatest Mother’—Relieved Sufferers In All Lands—Or- 
ganized Through Efforts One Woman—Purposes—Emblem of 
Order—Splendid Work in Spanish American War—Gradual 
Growth—Real Powerful Achievements—World War Opened 
Large Field—Headquarters Northwestern  Division—Rapid 
Increase of Membership—Activities In War Time—Home 
Service—In Behalf of Ex-Service Men—Junior Red Cross— 
Its Duties. 


No story of progress in the United States during the 
past seventy years would be complete without an account 
of the humanitarian achievements of our people through 
the American Red Cross. Composed of persons of all 
races, creeds and conditions, this great organization has 
been given another name which symbolizes the affection 
in which it is held—it is called “The Greatest Mother.” 
Through the Red Cross the heart of the nation has been 
revealed to millions of sufferers from war, disaster and 
pestilence in this country and throughout the world. 


It was largely as the result of the efforts of one 
woman that the American Red Cross was organized. 
During the Civil War, Clara Barton witnessed the 
pitiful condition of a train-load of wounded soldiers. 
From that day until the close of the war she devoted 
her time and energies to administering to the needs 
of sick and wounded men. Behind the battle-lines, 
amid the dirt and disease which were everywhere, she 
was an angel of mercy to wounded and dying soldiers 
of North and South alike. 


After the war, Miss Barton went to Europe for a 
rest. There she became acquainted with the Red Cross 
which had been organized in the countries signing the 


120 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


famous “Red Cross Treaty” in Geneva, in 1864. She 
observed the splendid work accomplished under the 
Red Cross flag for wounded soldiers on both sides in 
the Franco-Prussian war of 1870. With “Humanity and 
Neutrality” as their watchword these organizations 
made no distinction in their service to wounded men on 
account of nationality. She returned to America, deter- 
mined to work for the establishment of a similar organ- 
ization in this country. Her efforts were crowned 
with success. The American Red Cross was organized 
in 1881, with Clara Barton as its first president; and 
in 1882 the United States signed the Geneva Treaty. 


In the constitution of the society, adopted in 1881, 
it was declared the purpose of the organization ‘to 
organize a system of national relief and apply the same 
in mitigating the sufferings caused by war, pestilence, 
famine and other calamities.” The association also 
pledged itself to “hold itself in readiness in the event 
of war or any calamity great enough to be considered 
national, to inaugurate such practical measures, in miti- 
gation of the suffering and for the protection and relief 
of sick and wounded, as may be consistent with the 
object of the association.” 


If there was any doubt regarding the need and 
value of such an organization as the American Red 
Cross, this doubt was soon dispelled. Fortunately it 
was many years after the formation of the society 
before men wounded in battle needed its services. But 
there are other forces as destructive as war. Scarcely 
had the constitution of the society been adopted when 
there came news of disastrous forest fires in Michigan 
causing widespread death and destruction. ‘Our relief 
rooms were instantly secured,” reads the report of 
this first relief activity of the American Red Cross, 
“and our white banner, with its bright scarlet cross, 
which has never been furled since that hour, was 
thrown to the breeze, telling to every onlooker what 
we were there to do, and pointing to every generous 
heart an outlet for its sympathy.” 


THE AMERICAN RED CROSS 121 


This disaster, in which the American Red Cross 
met its first test, was followed by many others in the 
succeeding years. Floods in the Mississippi and Ohio 
valleys, cyclones in all parts of the tornado belt, yellow 
fever in southern states, the Johnstown flood, hurri- 
canes at sea, disastrous fires in many cities, epidemics 
of disease, the San Francisco earthquake, and scores 
of other calamities wrought destruction of property 
and caused death and destitution. Always, when local 
funds and initiative were not sufficient to cope with 
these emergencies, the people turned to the Red Cross 
with the assurance that thorough and _ constructive 
assistance would be immediately forthcoming. 


Meanwhile, during the Spanish-American War, the 
American Red Cross gained experience in war-time 
relief work which was of value twenty years later 
when this nation entered the great world conflict. The 
Red Cross flag was seen in army camps, on the high 
Seas, and in Cuba, Porto Rico and the Philippines. 
Women all over the country responded to the call and 
produced thousands of articles, which contributed might- 
ily to the comfort and welfare of men in camps and 
especially in hospitals. Supplementing the medica] 
department of the army, the Red Cross furnished hos- 
pital supplies and sterilized water, and in every possible 
manner contributed to the well-being of the soldiers 
and sailors. 


In Washington (State), the Red Cross was organized 
in many communities, for the special purpose of caring 
for Washington soldiers and their families. In Seattle, 
Tacoma, Walla Walla, Spokane, Bellingham and per- 
haps in other cities Red Cross organizations were 
formed. While there is no report of the amount of 
work accomplished in the state, it is certain that Wash- 
ington soldiers were greatly benefited by the activities 
of the loyal women who worked so faithfully. Further- 
more, the basis was well laid for Red Cross activities 
in later years. 


122 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


Space does not permit an account of the relief ex- 
tended to sufferers in foreign lands—especially in Ar- 
menia and Russia—by the American Red Cross. It 
is sufficient to state that people stricken by sword or 
by famine found in the ministrations of Red Cross 
workers evidence that the people of America were 
responsive to suffering in other lands. 


In 1905 the American Red Cross was incorporated 
and made a truly national institution, with the President 
of the United States as its president and the War 
Department as its auditor. Its authority, therefore, 
rests upon an act of Congress, and is the officially rec- 
ognized public relief organization of the nation with 
broad powers to serve suffering humanity both in war 
and in time of peace. 


This, in brief, is the history of the American Red 
Cross before the outbreak of the World War in 1914. 
It is a history of gradual growth and increasing activi- 
ties, and especially of accumulating experience for the 
supreme test which followed the United States’ declara- 
tion of war in April, 1917. Before this date the organi- 
zation “pursued a helpful but on the whole rather a 
pacific and uneventful course.” Its real power for 
achievement has been demonstrateed since that date. 


The story of what the American people accomplished 
through the Red Cross during the war would fill vol- 
umes. A brief account of the principal activities in the 
state of Washington and in the Pacific Northwest, how- 
ever, will be typical of what occurred all over the 
country. 


Very early in the war it was recognized that it 
would be impossible to direct the operations of the 
Red Cross effectively from a single headquarters in 
Washington, D. C. Accordingly, fourteen Divisions 
were created—thirteen in continental United States and 
one to have supervision of American Red Cross Chap- 
ters in our insular possessions and in foreign lands. 
One of these Divisions was the Northwestern, com- 


THE AMERICAN RED CROSS 123 


posed of Washington, Oregon, Idaho and Alaska, with 
headquarters in Seattle. 


Similarly an active campaign was inaugurated for 
the establishment of Red Cross Chapters including every 
community—for the local Chapter is the basis of the 
Red Cross organization. By June 30, 1918, there were 
35 Chapters in Washington, 24 in Oregon, 39 in Idaho, 
and 15 in Alaska. These Chapters varied in size from 
a single city with the immediately surrounding country 
to an area composing six or seven counties. Each 
Chapter, in turn, had Branches in towns within their 
jurisdiction; and there were still smaller groups known 
as Auxiliaries. In Washington, for instance, on Decem- 
ber 31, 1918, there were 401 Branches. 


Comparatively few people in the Northwest were 
members of the Red Cross before the war, but in the 
first Roll Call in December, 1917, a total of 690,270 
in the Northwestern Division enrolled as members, 
335,367 of whom were citizens of Washington. One 
year later this number had increased to 814,912, with 
430,008 in the state of Washington. Thus through 
Chapters, Branches, and Auxiliaries, acting under the 
direction and supervision of the Division Office, thous- 
ands of people gave of their money and, more important, 
of their time and strength, in order that this section 
of the country might do its full share of the great 
work entrusted to the American Red Cross. 


The care of the millions of men in our army and 
navy, especially when they were in hospitals because of 
wounds or sickness, and of their families while they 
were absent in the service of the nation, was the first 
task of the Red Cross. To this end the new machinery 
of the organization was set in motion with surprising 
rapidity and with results that faithfully refiect the 
determination of the American people that the war 
should be won. A few figures will illustrate the volume 
of work accomplished. 


124 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


During the year 1918 the women of the Northwest, 
working at Red Cross workrooms and in their homes, 
produced articles valued at more than $3,000,000. 
The total number of articles for the last six months of 
this same year was 3,316,000. Of these 2,161,238 were 
surgical dressings, 330,322 were hospital garments, 
376,119 were miscellaneous hospital supplies, and 
349,978 were knitted articles. In addition 98,343 refu- 
gee garments were produced for the people of Europe. 
During the same year the 275,000 children who were 
enrolled in the Junior Red Cross contributed $66,370.70, 
and produced thousands of articles for soldiers and sail- 
ors and children overseas. 


Red Cross Canteens, operated by Chapters and 
located at the principal railroad stations in Washing- 
ton, Oregon and Idaho, served 146,426 soldiers, 27,639 
sailors, 4,026 marines and 34,673 dependants during the 
last six months of 1918—thus bringing to these men con- 
tinuous evidence of the solicitude of the people for whom 
they were offering their lives. The number of men served 
in this manner increased enormously after the signing 
of the Armistice when the men were being demobilized. 
In January, 1919, for instance, 104,111 men were sup- 
plied with 2,528 gallons of coffee, 21,327 sandwiches, 
83,220 dozen doughnuts, 4,820 cookies, 98,651 packages 
of cigarettes, 8,669 chocolate bars, 1,974 pounds of 
candy, 40,658 postal cards, 75,102 magazines, and 
thousands of other articles. | 


At Camp Lewis, Vancouver Barracks, the Puget 
Sound Navy Yard, and all the forts and posts where men 
were in training, the Red Cross maintained offices and 
representatives to assist the army and navy in main- 
taining the efficiency and morale of the men in service. 
In the army hospitals Red Cross workers visited the 
men in the wards, wrote letters for them, ran errands 
for them, and supplemented the treatment provided by 
the hospital authorities by giving the men numerous 
Red Cross gifts which administered greatly toward their 
comfort and contentment. From the warehouses sweat- 


THE AMERICAN RED CROSS 125 


ers, socks, helmets and numerous other articles were 
distributed to the men, especially when they were about 
to entrain for other camps in this country and overseas. 
Emergency loan funds were also available to men called 
home by death or illness in their families or by urgent 
business situations. 


Important as were all these activities affecting the 
physical well-being of the men in service, they were 
certainly no more fully appreciated than was that phase 
of Red Cross work which was given the name “Home 
Service.” Upon each Red Cross Chapter was placed 
the duty of aiding and protecting the families of the 
service men living within their jurisdictions. In all 
the army and navy camps and posts there were Red 
Cross representatives whose duty it was to keep in 
touch with the men and be prepared to assist them in 
solving problems arising out of their absence from 
civilian life. Thus, if the service man was worried 
about affairs at home the Red Cross camp service 
worker could immediately communicate with the local 
Chapter and aid would be given to the family or 
assistance rendered in adjusting some business difficulty. 
On the other hand, if the family was worried about 
the welfare of the men in service, the Chapter workers 
could communicate with the representative in the 
camp and the man would be visited and a report of 
his welfare returned to the Chapter. In this way the 
Red Cross helped greatly in maintaining the morale of 
both the fighting forces and the civilian population. 


The extent of this service is indicated by the fact 
that in one month, namely April, 1919, the number of 
service men’s families to whom service was rendered by 
Red Cross Chapters in Washington alone was 18,094, 
while the financial assistance given these same families 
amounted to more than $46,000. In addition thousands 
of discharged soldiers and sailors were aided each month 
in filing papers connected with their government insur- 
ance, allotments, compensation, travel pay and other 
claims arising out of their war service. Special empha- 


126 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


sis has been placed, and is still being placed, upon ser- 
vice to the men disabled during the war. 


Another responsibility placed upon the Red Cross 
during the war was the recruiting of nurses for the 
army and navy. In the Northwestern Division between 
November 1, 1917, and December 31, 1918, 616 nurses 
were thus recruited and assigned to service. The story 
of the part played by the Red Cross Nurse during the 
World War has been told in song and has been imper- 
ishably recorded in the annals of the great struggle. 


This resume indicates only very imperfectly the 
outstanding activities of the American Red Cross in 
the Northwest during the war and the period of demobil- 
ization. No mention has been made of other vital 
phases of the work, such as motor corps service, the 
furnishing of nurses and supplies during the influenza 
epidemic, relief in cases of disaster like the Cle Elum 
fire, and the many activities of the Junior Red Cross 
in addition to the production of articles. Above all, 
no words are adequate to describe the sacrifices, in 
money, in time and in strength, made by hundreds of 
thousands of men, women and children in order that 
their Red Cross in the Northwest might not fail the 
nation in its time of need. 


Although the war closed nearly three years ago the 
American Red Cross will ‘carry on” in behalf of ex- 
service men as long as there is need for its services. 
Especially will it fulfill its sacred pledge to stand by 
the men disabled in the service of their country. In the 
United States Public Health Service Hospitals at Tac- 
oma, Port Townsend and Boise, the Red Cross main- 
tains staffs of workers. Similarly all the Red Cross 
Chapters in Washington and the Northwest are continu- 
ing their services to former soldiers and sailors and 
their families with the same zeal they exhibited during 
the war. 


At the same time the Red Cross is laying the foun- 
dation for an enlarged program of service. It was 


THE AMERICAN RED CROSS Ay 


universally felt at the close of the war that this orga- 
nization should not again be allowed to return to its 
pre-war basis. The mission of the Red Cross in times 
of peace is believed to be no less vital than in war. 


Consequently throughout the Northwest the Red 
Cross Chapters are undertaking new fields of service to 
their communities. Viewing preventable disease as a 
public calamity, the Red Cross has entered the field of 
public health. Health centers are being established, 
county public health nurses are being employed by 
Chapters, and women and girls are being instructed in 
the principles of home hygiene and the care of the sick. 
Social service similar to that rendered to soldiers and 
their families during the war is being extended to all 
disadvantaged families. Through the Junior Red Cross 
the children in the schools are learning lessons of citizen- 
ship through unselfish service to others. Preparedness 
to meet disasters, the teaching of first aid and life- 
saving, and the operation of salvage shops, are other 
activities in which Chapters are engaging. 


Thus, with organizations in every community, the 
American Red Cross is one of the important means 
through which people are striving to make life in Am- 
erica healthier, safer and happier. 


CHAPTER XVI. 


THE KNIGHTS OF COLUMBUS 


By LAURA WooD HUGHES 


Why Organized—Chief Activities—Official Recognition—Colum- 
bus Day—Self-Sacrificing Labors “Overseas”—Brought Com- 
fort to Thousands—Ministering to Wounded—Operated 
Largest Doughnut Factory—First Relief Workers to Cross 
Rhine—Minstrel Shows Appreciated—Free Instruction for 
War Veterans—School and Club House in Seattle. 


Michael Joseph McGivney, priest of the diocese of 
Hartford, Conn., dreamed the dream that became the 
Knights of Columbus, and great was the need of such 
an organization. The rush of Irish Immigrants from 
their own country, was met with disapproval and sus- 
picion by Protestants and Catholics alike. It was 
Father McGivney’s ambition to weld together a body 
of men with high ideals who would slowly break down 
the religious prejudice by living benevolent lives of 
service to humanity. 


In 1882 the charter of the Knights of Columbus was 
formally issued and the fraternal order became incor- 
porated nationally. 


In 1885 the order was carried into Rhode Island. 
Its quiet, steady growth continued until, at the end of 
1899, the order was active in 20 states—the foremost 
Catholic fraternity and benevolent society in America. 


In January, 1919, the number of insured members 
was 128,935. The Mortuary Reserve Fund and Death 
Benefit aggregated $8,740,276.15. 


THE KNIGHTS OF COLUMBUS 129 


Until the commencement of the war, the chief activ- 
ities of the Knights were promoting higher education, 
endowments of beds in hospitals and a keen participa- 
tion in furthering any and all movements consistent 
with good citizenship and high ideals. During the war 
along the Mexican border and with Manila, the Knights 
contributed $10,000 to the relief fund and $20,000 was 
contributed for the relief of the sufferers of the Middle 
West during the floods of 1918. 


In 1912 the Knights of Columbus won a long sought 
and much deserved recognition when Columbus Day 
was Officially set aside by legislative enactment and made 
a day upon which the Nation could co-operate in honor- 
ing the man who set forth, with the fear of God in 
his heart, to find the New World. The Knights parti- 
cipated in the celebration of unveiling the Statue of 
Columbus in Washington, D. C., with a generous dona- 
tion of funds and the old discoverer was at last put 
upon an equal memorial footing with our fearless his- 
tory makers. 


Not so much in statistical, tabulated form or in 
publicity sheets has the War Work of the Knights of 
Columbus been printed, but in the hearts of men who 
will ever associate the elderly, fatherly Knights “Over 
Seas” with self sacrifice and brotherly love. By a 
thousand tales, each different, each dripping with its 
agony and heroism, the weight of the human value of 
the Knights of Columbus at the Front might be meas- 
ured. It is the story of “Man’s Humanity to Man.” 
It is the story of “Uncle Jo” Kernan, over sixty years, 
carrying his heavy pack of chocolates and smokes and 
chewing gum to the boys in the trenches. It is the 
story of ‘‘Pop’’ Bundshie, trundeling his kitchen over 
the shell-swept road to some secluded spot where he 
could administer comforts to his boys. It is the story 
of the brave “Yank” who, when all other means failed, 
hesitated not at all to risk his life to drop from his 
air craft into the cut-off trenches, the “goodies” wrapped 
in paper and marked “K. C.” It is the story of gifts 


130 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


of little comforts for our lads, of personal service with- 
out benefit of remuneration, save the undying gratitude 
of 550,000 men who enjoyed the hospitality of the 
Knights of Columbus, some time during service. 


The reason, the emotion, the traditions of men called 
for religion in this time of the world’s greatest conflict. 
The Catholic lad died unhappy without the last rites 
of his faith, and the non-catholic, as earnestly longed 
for a kindly smile, the touch of a hand and a word 
about the future life he was being hurried into. At 
Toul there were six hospitals and 20,000 wounded and 
dying men with their quota of Catholic lads, and but 
one chaplain. No Protestant soldier accused a Knight 
of obtruding his religion upon him, for he too was 
served with faith and love. All loved the “Fighting 
Shepherds of the Fighting Flocks.” 


One day Sec. Thomas, carrying his heavy pack of 
“goodies” to be distributed to the boys in the first and 
second line trenches, came upon a lad lying in a ditch, 
wounded unto death. He was begging for a chaplain. 
None was nearer than Baccart, seven miles away. Sec. 
Thomas hastened to Baccart and returned with the 
chaplain before the lad became unconscious. This inci- 
dent led the chaplain to telegraph to New York for 
motorcycles for the use of the K. of C. secretaries 
and as soon as the factories could turn them out, hun- 
dreds were shipped to France. 


Fifty-four volunteer chaplains were supported in 
France by the Knights. They had 250: huts, overseas, 
ranging from some poor deserted peasant’s home to a 
palace along the Rhine, which were used as clubhouses. 


In the hospitals the Knights distinguished themselves 
by carrying the helpless, giving anesthetics for hours 
at a time, shaving, writing letters, reading for those who 
had no eyes, lighting cigarettes for those who had no 
fingers, and above all never missing a chance of slipping 
in a song and dance or anything that would brighten 
the down-and-out fellow. The boys in the hospitals 


THE KNIGHTS OF COLUMBUS 131 


came to watch for the Knights as they would have 
watched for a dear Uncle or Father. A piece of soap 
was the most imperious of bribes and no one who was 
not at the front during the last year of the war can 
realize how precious an ounce of sugar or a piece of 
chocolate was. Once, when undergoing an operation 
without anaesthetic, Warden McLaughlin tells how a 
poor lad braced up and smiled and went through the 
ordeal because a Knight came along and put a chocolate 
drop in his mouth and did a skit that made the boy 
laugh and take heart. 


The Knights can modestly claim to have operated the 
largest doughnut factory in the world. It was started 
by the “Doughnut Kings,” Knights Gramling and Cava- 
naugh. Their bi-weekly “doughnut barrage’, with a 
daily output of 60,000, increased at this time, will ever 
be a dear memory to the boys. The doughnut spoke of 
“Mother” and of “Home” in that devastated country, 
as nothing else did. It’ was the symbol of hospitality, 
a tiny oasis in that desert of brown bread and coarse 
chow. 


During the period of the war, the thousands of 
Knights who were in service were carried as ordinary 
risks, the order assuming the entire war risk. In 
Boston, a hostelry, providing 708 free beds, baths, shine, 
shave, and breakfast, was the first of many of its kind 
on both sides of the water. To every man embarking on 
a transport from France, the Knights gave gifts of 
candy, “smokes”, handkerchiefs and shaving sets. 


At the signing of the armistice, the first relief work- 
ers to get into Germany were Secretaries James Fitz- 
patrick, M. Nolan and Thomas Roche, who crossed the 
Rhine with tons of supplies. Everybody seemed to 
co-operate with them and in a short time, clubs were 
opened and used by thousands of men. Shower baths 
were provided with soap for all, reading rooms opened, 
athletic games and all forms of entertaniment possible, 


182 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


that would make the soldiers better contented during 
the period of waiting. Wholesome living conditions 
were also provided. 


This story would not be complete without mention 
of the great Minstrel Show and the Fair and what the 
doughboy termed “piece de resistance” of the last 
year of the war—the Great Circus. The Minstrel Show 
toured the country, stopping at every occupied town. 
The Fair was a great success in so far as it occupied 
happily, the time of thousands of homesick men for 
days and days and the Circus with its great company 
of performers going about from place to place, was 
one of the greatest factors in the contentment of the 
lives of the soldiers. As the Circus passed on, from 
Bordeau to Coblenz, more than half a million men, 
high officials and privates, side by side with their feet 
in the sawdust, munching peanuts and popcorn, wit- 
nessed the big event. 


As the boys began to arrive home, free receptions 
were arranged by the Knights, in which such acquisi- 
tions as the famous Lemonade Wagons, free beds, intel- 
ligence bureaus and all sorts of benefits, were tendered. 
In the State of Washington, at Camp Lewis, the Knights 
have three permanent buildings. There are a number 
of beds endowed in different hospitals by them, and their 
relief fund, which is outside of their regular sick bene- 
ficiary, is amazingly large. 


The Knights of Columbus, with James J. Gorman 
as their Grand Knight, came to the Pacific Coast in 
1902. In Seattle is to be found one of their most 
beautiful club buildings. It is a four-story, modern 
brick structure on Harvard Avenue. 


The building was opened in 19138. Here are held the 
juvenile and adult classes in physical instruction, under 
trained men; business men’s classes and ladies’ classes. 


THE KNIGHTS OF COLUMBUS 133 


The second floor is taken up entirely with the ball 
room. The third floor is given over to the Club and 
library. On the fourth floor the lodge rooms are 
located. During the war, 60 cots were put up here 
for the free use of soldiers and sailors and they were 
always occupied. 


The Knights of Columbus school, under Mr. Gorman, 
is progressing in the old Seattle College building, on 
Broadway. 


The recent membership of the Knights of Columbus 
in Seattle alone is over 2,000. At this writing (1921) 
Ralph A. Gemmil is the Grand Knight. 


CHAPTER XVII. 
THE SALVATION ARMY 


“A man may be down but never out.” 


Purpose of Organization—Humble Beginning—Established in U. 
S.—Rapid Progress—Statistics of Army—Organized in 
Washington—Active in Uplift Work—To the Rescue 
Distress—Splendid Work in Great War—Gratitude of “Our 
Boys’—Increasing Popularity—Usefulness Generally Recog- 
nized. 


“Give the hungry man some food,” said Gen. Booth, 
“and then he will listen to your message.” It was this 
conviction in the heart of William Booth, a poor preacher 
of London, that: led him to plead with his Conference to 
be permitted to hold open-air meetings in the streets 
of London for the “Submerged Tenth”, as he called them. 
At the close of the Conference, the presiding Minister 
arose and demanded that Booth tender his resignation 
or give up the “undignified” practice of preaching in 
the streets. 


For one undecided moment he stood with bowed 
head. It took great courage to withdraw from a church 
in which he had labored for years. But as he stood, 
his young wife, Catherine, arose and in clear, unafraid 
tones, cried out, “Do not do it, William, do not give 
up our poor people,’”—and he did not! Courageous 
Woman! 


Immediately Booth organized the first Christian Mis- 
sion where hundreds of the “‘scum”’ of London came who 
never before had been inside a place of worship. In 
1879 the Mission was organized on a quasi-military 
basis, adopting the name of “Salvation Army,” with 
Gen. Wm. Booth as its head. The local societies were 


THE SALVATION ARMY 135 


called “Corps” and the evangelists, “Field Officers.” 
Bands were organized with their bass-drums stimulating 
to “Forward March,” and the first War Cry was pub- 
lished. 


In 1880 a little company of Army Officers landed in 
the U. 8S. and then began a struggle for recognition 
which called for unlimited patience and tact. Against 
frightful odds, mud-slinging, and in some places ‘‘rotten- 
egging”’, they slowly won their way to a place in the 
hearts of the people. In 1894 Gen. Booth was invited 
to open the U. S. Senate with prayer. 


There are now in the U. S. 963 corps and out-posts. 


Much temporary relief is given at once at the 
Separate centers, as one may determine for himself if he 
spends a few hours in almost any of the Army offices. 


The Salvation Army first came to the Northwest in 
an early day and the first flag was unfurled in Seattle. 


Staff-Captain Riggs, under Lieut.-Colonel J. W. Cous- 
ins, Divisional Commander, with headquarters in Seattle, 
at this writing (1921), is Secretary of the North- 
western section comprising Washington, Idaho and 
Oregon. Besides its War work, the Salvation Army 
has been particularly active in building Rescue Homes 
and Young Women’s Boarding Homes. One of the 
latter has recently been opened in Bremerton, Wash. 
In Portland, one of the Rescue Homes took care of 
1,088 girls last year (1920). 


“Whatever the lot of men,” said Lieut.-Col. Roose- 
velt, “the Salvation Army is found with them.” 


In San Francisco, when scarcely the earth had ceased 
to shake, they were there on the ground with food and 
clothes. 


In the Klondike rush, with its frightful disappoint- 
ments and hardships and crime and despair, a few good 
‘women in poke bonnets and blue serge upheld the 
standards of our race when they were well nigh trod- 
den down. 


136 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


In the floods of Galveston, Jamestown and Dayton, 
the Salvation Army boat, laden with warm clothes and 
food, was first on the scene, and the Mayor of Halifax, 
when that city had been rocked and wrecked by explo- 
sion, said, ‘Without the Salvation Army and their 
wonderful, intelligent, unbroken day-and-night efforts, 
I do not know what I should have done.” 


They are always ready, for they are taught in their 
39 Training Schools thruout the land to deny self, to 
endure hardships and above all, to obey orders. 


But it was not until the Salvationists, one hundred 
thousand strong, working shoulder to shoulder with 
“Our Boys, Over There,” and its tens of thousands co- 
operating at home, that the world took off its hat to 
them. 

When the good news came, thru Col. Barker, then 
in France, to Commander Evangeline Booth, that Gen. 
Pershing had given orders for the Salvation Army to 
open work with the Expeditionary Forces, the Com- 
mander gathered about her the little company of pioneers 
who had been trained for the work, and “gave them 
such a charge as would make an angel search his 
heart.” 

Upon arrival at Bordeaux, they were outfitted accord- 
ing to orders, with French regulation Khaki uniforms, 
with red epaulets and were given the rank of Military 
Privates. 

Late in the summer of 1917, on the evening air 
of Demage, France, the sound of the old familiar hymn, 
“Nearer, my God to Thee,” sung by an unafraid girl- 
voice, fresh and young, brought a thousand desperate, 
homesick, discouraged American boys together to hear 
the simple story they had been taught at Sunday School 
“back home.” It was full of significance to them and 
with one voice they took up the air and sang away some 
of the blues and when the hot chocolate and doughnuts 
had been passed around, one lad was heard to say that 
after all, war was not so bad. It was their first ‘‘mother 
touch” since the beginning of war. 


THE SALVATION ARMY 187 


From this time on, the Salvation Army became 
more and more popular. In circus tents, old barns, dug- 
outs, huts and the open air they worked, nursing, cheer- 
ing, feeding, with heroic self-sacrifice. 


The first doughnuts were patted out and cut with a 
broken bottle and baked in a pan that only held seven. 


But before long the same lassies were supervising 
the making of 5,000 per day. It is not possible to 
determine just how many tons of materials were baked 
up into doughnuts during the war, but the Salvation 
Army Doughnut Trucks were dear to the hearts of 
the boys. 


The Army quarters were known as “huts.” It is 
recorded by an eye-witness that in one day one of the 
huts was used for early mass, conducted by a Catholic 
Priest, a Jewish service, preaching by a Protestant 
Preacher, besides the regular Salvation Army meetings. 
Their co-operation with the Red Cross and the Y. M. 
C. A. was marked. Their work had many phases. At 
one place, Col. Barker bought $10,000 worth of netting 
to spread over the faces of the sick soldiers. 


I would like to digress here to say that if you, my 
reader, at any time see a young man making fun of the 
costumes and customs of the Salvation Army, depend 
upon it, he was not “Over There,” for every soldier who 
trod the Fields of Flanders or trailed his tired feet thru 
the French mud or stumbled among the ruins of Bel- 
gium, will defend the Salvationists with their honor 
as they would the Stars and Stripes. 


At Camp Lewis during the war, the Hut was the 
meeting place of thousands of mothers who came to see 
or learn about her boy. The Camp Lewis Hut is still 
popular at this writing, April, 1921, and the Salvation 
Army Hotel is a prominent factor in the housing and 
the life of the people of the Camp. 


The watchwords of the Salvationists are “Service” 
and ‘‘All men are Brothers.” 


CHAPTER XVIII. 


Y. M. C. A. AND Y. W. C. A. 


Need om an Organization for Moral Uplift Felt—In 1876 a 
Y. M. C. A. Organized in Seattle—Spread Into Other Locali- 
nial ia Growth From 1902—Y. M. C. A. Now in Every 
Large Town in the State—In 1894 An Effort To Form A 
Y. W. C. A. in Seattle—In 1900 Reorganized—Ever Since 
Expanded Rapidly—At Present Time In Flourishing Con- 
dition. 


In the earlier days of Washington history, as now, 
there was a felt desire on the part of the people for all 
the elements of civic strength, moral influence as well 
as industrial progressiveness. It was felt that the 
moral character of the young men who were coming 
in such numbers to the growing state should be con- 
served and strengthened. Therefore, in 1876 a move- 
ment was started that within two months culminated 
in the organization of a Young Men’s Christian Asso- 
ciation, in Seattle. 


This action on the part of Seattle people soon had 
its influence on other communities and other branches 
of this great organization were formed. For a num- 
ber of years the growth of the Association was quite 
rapid, but in large part it was not on a permanent 
basis. In those days throughout the country, Associa- 
tions were formed to operate in rented rooms, usually 
on the upper floors of business buildings. Later, after 
the experimental period had closed, permanent build- 
ings were required as the preliminary condition to 
organization. 


Previous to 1900, Washington, Oregon, Idaho and 
British Columbia were united in an organization to 
promote the formation of Association in the Pacific 


Vee M AOL ACVAND AY.» Wot Ce AL 139 


Northwest, but about that time Washington broke away 
from the rest of the Northwest and formed its own 
organizing agency. In 1902 a building era for the 
Y. M. C. A. in this state began and during the follow- 
ing eighteen years buildings increased in number from 
three to 18 and in value from $80,000 to $1,721,975. 
During this period the Associations and branches 
increased from five to 17 in number, while the paid 
employes increased from 14 to 92. In 1912 the number 
of members was 1,797, in 1920 they numbered 11,912, 
with a great increase in those activities that reach 
thousands of young men and boys who can not be 
counted as members. At the beginning of 1921 there 
were city Young Men’s Christian Associations in Bell- 
ingham, Everett, Seattle, Tacoma, Olympia, Hoquiam, 
Yakima, Ellensburg,, Walla Walla, Wenatchee, and Spo- 
kane. There were student associations at the State 
University, State College, College of Puget Sound, Whit- 
man College, Cheney Normal School, and Bellingham 
Normal School. An industrial Association was flourish- 
ing at Raymond, an army organization at Port Town- 
send and a navy Association at Bremerton. One rural 
organization had been organized for Pierce County. 


The Young Men’s Christian Association work in 
Washington is affiliated with the movement on this 
continent which has 868,892 members, and with that of 
the world, which is now seventy-six years old, and has 
8,797 branches and 1,330,532 members. 


a W.Co As 


“Hvery Great Institution,” says Emerson, “is but 
the lengthened shadow of a single man.” If we follow 
the trend of an event to the heart of it, whether it be 
the great pageant of Pioneers crossing the Plains in 
Prairie Schooners to form a new empire, or the comple- 
tion of a great war ship or an air craft, we will 
find that in some one heart, the germ first began to 
develop. 


140 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


In the early 60’s, among the effects of George Wil- 
liams, a poor draper, who died in London, was found 
a sketch of the plan to form a Young Woman’s Chris- 
tian Association. These plans were dated forty years 
before his death. The first branch was organized in 
Great Britain in 1859, with Mrs. Roberts as its head. 
In America the soil had been made ready for the seed 
by Mary Lion and Charles Funney in establishing 
Holyoke Seminary and Oberlin college; and fostered and 
tendered by such noble souls as Lucy Larcum, Harriet 
Beecher Stowe and Louise May Alcott. 


On March 3, 1866, thirty women met in the home 
of Mrs. Henry Durant, Mt. Vernon Ave., Boston, and 
organized the first Y. W. C. A. in the United States. 
Two rooms were furnished and in two years it had 
far outgrown its quarters. Two buildings were then 
secured, remodeled and furnished at a cost of $40,000. 
On the list of subscriptions for this fund, there appears 
the name of Henry W. Longfellow. From this time on 
the movement spread to every city of any size in the 
U. S. as well as to every country where Christianity 
has gone. 


The object of the Association is to provide an all- 
around development, physical, mental, moral and social 
for girls and women who have not the best advantages 
at home. To the girl in the city, the girl in the 
country, the girl in the shops, the foreign-born, the 
college girl, and the colored girl—all these are provided 
for in the different departments. The advantages of 
education, of securing advice and employment, as well 
as becoming in close touch with the best in art and 
literature and crafts of all kinds, is unlimited. 


In 1894 Mrs. Daniels, who had come to Seattle as 
the bride of Rees P. Daniels, attorney, from Washington, 
D. C., urged the women of Seattle to co-operate in form- 
ing a branch of the Y. W. C. A. A temporary organ- 
ization was effected. Mrs. O. C. Shorey offered the 
use of her store-room on Third and Columbia St., an 


Vermeer A AND) Yenwe Cs Ae Tat 


organ and other furnishings were donated by interested 
parties and the real work commenced. Later, Mrs. 
John Wood brought by-laws and Constitution from 
Minneapolis and the Constitution of the Seattle branch 
was formed from these. Mrs. Maud Welbon was chosen 
president and Miss Martin, Miss Robinson and Miss 
Devoe were untiring workers. 


In 1900 the National board sent Miss Elsie West to 
re-organize the Y. W. C. A. and Mrs. Wood was chosen 
President. With the old Olympic Hall on Second Ave., 
as headquarters, a lunch room, bathrooms, classes, etc., 
were installed. The total number of membership was 
62, but in six months it had grown to 610. The Curtis 
Building was leased and likewise outgrown; and in 
1904 the old quarters of the Old Rainier Club were 
secured, the membership increased to 977 and other 
departments were added to its activities. With a mem- 
bership of 1,338 in 1906, the first camp on Vashon 
Island was established, a boarding house for girls 
started and the plans laid for the Alaska-Yukon-Pacific 
Exhibition building. This venture left a credit of 
$12,000, which was the nest-egg for the new building 
of their own. 


In 1914 the eight-story building, the best of its 
kind this side the National Building, New York, was 
erected on Fifth Ave., Seattle, and now, (1921), the 
building is used annually by 22,000 persons, with 12,000 
in free departments and 10,000 in paying departments. 
On an average 1,000 girls are housed in this building 
monthly and 126,805 meals are served annually. 


The Work of the Association as carried on in Seattle, 
tho on a somewhat smaller scale, is much the same 
in nature all over the Northwest. With the Vocational 
school, physical education, placement bureau, clubs, hous- 
ing department, advisory and emergency board, Ameri- 
canization board, extension and industrial department, 
colored branch and girls’ homes, the Y. W. C. A. takes 
care of the needs of its 5,000 members in the Seattle 
branch alone. 


CHAPTER XIX. 


NURSING 


Health of People Neglected—Ancient Nations Indifferent—Ad- 
vent of Christianity Wrought Change—Medical Science 
Made Slow Advance—Nursing Knowledge Inadequate—In 
Past 70 Years Made Great Progress—Florence Nightingale 
Deserves the Credit—Wars Have Been the Cause of Progress 
—Nurses Work in Great War. 


The maintenance of the health of a people is per- 
haps the most important function of a government; 
and yet, in the annals of human history, we find that 
no other branch has been so neglected. In.ancient times 
we learn that very little care or attention was bestowed 
upon those who were so unfortunate as to be maimed, 
or wounded in battle, or stricken by disease. 


In Egypt and India we have proof that consider- 
able knowledge was possessed of the efficacy of drugs; 
and the advantages of sanitation were well known to 
the Egyptians, but there is nothing to show that any 
provision had been made or thought given to the neces- 
sity of nursing the sick. 


The jewish law-giver, Moses, developed remarkable 
codes of sanitation and hygiene both for family and 
community life. He is supposed to have gained this 
knowledge during his sojourn in Egypt; but he has 
undoubtedly improved upon it and stands to this day 
as one of the world’s great sanitarians. Jewish nurs- 
ing was done in the home. 


In Greece and Rome medical science and surgery 
made great advances, although nursing, fully as import- 
ant, received scant consideration. Men nursed the 
wounded soldiers. 


NURSING 143 


The advent of christianity wrought a change. The 
great talents and ability of the Roman ladies for such 
duties were then called into play through the influence 
of the teachings of the Man of Gallilee. The disciples’ 
love for their great Teacher took the form of service 
to whomever needed it; especially the sick, neglected and 
destitute. 


One of the most striking features of the new 
religion was the active strenuous work it brought to 
women. It exalted them to a higher plane than they 
occupied under paganism. It is surmised that during 
the life of St. Paul the first organized effort to succor 
the sick poor was made through the instrumentality 
of a woman—a deaconess of the church. 


Down through the centuries we find from the time 
Fabiola founded the first free public hospital under 
christian auspices in 390 A. D. sisterhoods devoted to 
the care of the sick and destitute did everything 
within their power to mitigate the sufferings of 
the afflicted. But medical science made very little 
progress during many centuries; consequently the nur- 
ses, although animated by the highest purposes and 
purest motives were lacking in proper organization and 
technical knowledge, which, to a degree, rendered their 
efforts abortive. 


It is in the past seventy years that the nursing pro- 
fession has attained the high standard of excellence 
which it holds today. And strange as it may seem, 
cruel wars have been largely instrumental in bringing 
about this desirable result. 


The Crimean War of 1854 gave that splendid phil- 
anthropic woman, Florence Nightingale, the opportunity 
to create the modern nursing order. An opportunity 
which she had hitherto sought in vain. It was the 
battle of Solferino in 1859 and the lack of system 
manifest in caring for the wounded upon that bloody 
battle field, that prompted Henri Dunant to found that 


144 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


noble society, the Red Cross, which has performed such 
wonderful work in the alleviation of human suffering 
in the past sixty years. 


In the last and greatest war of all time the advance 
made in surgery, medical science and co-operative nur- 
sing have been truly marvellous. Such terrible conflicts 
develop, especially in women, all the humanitarian 
impulses of human nature towards life-saving efforts, 
and bring into relief all the defects and weaknesses 
of an organization engaged in such work, thereby tend- 
ing towards more thorough teaching and careful prep- 
aration for future contingencies. 


The skill and system and heroism displayed by the ° 
American Red Cross and American nurses in that 
great conflict and the remarkable record made by them 
in caring for the sick and wounded on every battle 
field of that colossal contest, will take a first place 
in the annals of human achievement and add imperish- 
able luster to American efficiency. 


The prestige of nursing has been raised by the war. 
The men in the Army and Navy greatly appreciated 
the nurses’ work, and the civilian population has learned 
more of her value to the country. The “flu” epidemic 
quickened the general understanding of the importance 
of public health nursing. Interest in nursing as a 
profession for young women has been greatly aroused. 
In almost every hospital in the state of Washington 
young women are taking a three-year course of train- 
nig to fit them for graduation as nurses. Our State 
University also gives a course of nursing. It is both 
a useful and honorable profession, and offers an inter- 
esting as well as a remunerative field for intelligent 
and aspiring young women. 


CHAPTER XX. 


PROHIBITION 


Great Movement for Moral Uplift—Crime Reduced—Eighty 
Years Ago Whisky in Common Use—Even Preachers Tip- 
pled—This State Slow in Ratifying—But Legislature Voted 
Unanimously—Liquor Interests Snowed Under—Prohibition 
To Stay—Experience When a Boy—A Drunken School 
Master—Gilded Saloons Deadly Work—Drunken Voters— 
John Barleycorn Dies Hard—Prohibition Not a Failure— 
C. B. Blethen’s Testimony—Like Saul Saw the Light— 
Glorious Progress. 


Any concentrated movement tending to empty the 
prisons, increase the bank deposits, provide better food 
and clothing for children, protect helpless mothers in 
the household, decrease business of the morgue, elevate 
the morals of a nation, protect the rising generation 
from the pitfalls of sin and dissipation, is entitled to 
be hailed as a harbinger of good tidings, a sign of 
progress second to none of the century. 


Such is prohibition. Abundant statistics can be 
cited where arrests fell off fifty per cent or more, im- 
mediately following prohibition; prisons with less than 
half the inmates and, in numerous instances, empty 
jails, with savings accounts of work people more than 
doubled in an incredibly short time after prohibition 
prevailed. 


The statistics show a result so uniform and one 
may almost say universal that the fact must be ac- 
cepted and cause assigned beyond all question of argu- 
ment; it is admitted by opponents of prohibition as 
true, in a majority of cases, and claimed to be true, in 
all cases, by the friends of prohibition. 


146 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


To illustrate what a tremendous reform prohibition 
has accomplished we need to go back in history a little 
way. Eighty years ago as a ten year old lad I wit- 
nessed the decanter (sometimes a jug) on the side 
board or convenient corner of the cupboard containing 
whisky ready to serve to visitors; later the jug in the 
harvest field, log rolling, or barn raisings, or in fact 
at all assemblies one might say except churches; heard 
the talk of where the parson had “taken too much’; of 
the deacon who was too fond of his ‘‘nip.” 


Do you doubt it, reader? If so, go a little farther 
back to find statute law prohibiting the preacher from 
imbibing and heavy fines to be paid in tobacco for 
drunkenness. 


Washington did not march at the head of the column 
in ratifying the federal constitutional amendment; but 
when she did act through her legislature it was by a 
unanimous vote of both houses. The contest had been 
long and arduous. The state had gone ‘“bone-dry” in 
1918 by a vote of the people—96,100 for, 54,322 against. 
A statutory prohibition law had been adopted at an 
election held in 1914, not so stringent as the later law, 
by an initiatory vote of 189,840 for and 171,208 against, 
in one of the most spirited spectacular elections ever 
held in the state. 


During the year 1916 a desperate effort was made 
by the liquor interests to nullify in a measure the law, 
but they were overwhelmingly defeated in an initiative 
election. 


Prohibition in Washington has come to stay even if 
it were possible to repeal the amendment to the federal 
constitution; and with the twin. measure of progress, 
the enfranchisement of women, is cherished by those 
who fought the battle and now approved by a large 
majority of those opposing the measure when passed. 


My first recollection of school days is of an old squat 
log house in Ohio, when a brutal teacher got me across 
his knee with my face down so he could conveniently 


PROHIBITION 147 


reach my nether end and paddled me until the exposed 
part became black and blue after I had gotten home, 
at least Mother said it was; I couldn’t see but could 
vividly feel and believe when I sat down to my supper 
of mush and milk. My brother, who in after years we 
called “Uncle John” and who became so prominent in 
Odd Fellowship in Washington, was present and de- 
scribed the struggle as “a fight to the finish’; for I 
scratched and kicked, bit the teacher’s knee (and I 
had good teeth then) and did all I could to resist. 
After he desisted and ordered me to my seat, instead 
of minding him, I struck for the door, outran him 
(for he was drunk, or at least had been drinking) and 
reached home in a great rage. 


A little later in life, in Indiana, I can remember 
when it was fashionable in certain circles to entertain 
with whisky on the table, upon a casual call. Whisky 
was cheap then, 25 cents a gallon with corn at 15 cents 
a bushel; but let me be just to the pioneer tipplers, 
boisterous drinkings were not as prevalent as when 
later the enticing gilded saloon came so prominently to 
the front. Still later in life I witnessed disgraceful 
scenes in pioneer days in our Washington, when whisky 
was comparatively cheap. If the reader will turn to 
another chapter of this volume he will find a record of 
where a bushel of potatoes could be exchanged for a 
gallon of whisky. 


It was the gilded saloon that did the deadly work 
of enticing the young men to their destruction and 
undermining the morals and welfare of the nation. 


Once upon a time in pioneer days I stood in my 
door of the block house we had built in Indian war 
times in the Town of Steilacoom and, which, by the 
way, is one of the very few of the seventy-five built, 
yet preserved, and saw more than twenty drunken and 
half drunken men pass on their way to cast their vote 
in the election then progressing. This “gang,” shall I 
call them, was herded by a stalwart saloon keeper of 


148 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


the town, of Scotch descent—I could give his name, 
but refrain. One of his victims, too drunk to stand 
alone, had to be supported by two assistant herders. 
I followed at safe distance and at the polls saw those 
who were steady in balance enough to hand the tickets 
to the election officers and for those too drunk the 
ballot taken from their hands by a third party finally 
to be deposited in the ballot box. I have seen in more 
recent days right here in Seattle and also in other 
cities of the state saloons with counters filled by men, 
drinking, talking uproariously, part of them young 
men just out of their “teens”; and yet we hear a 
rumble of words from the boosters arrayed against 
Progress to restore their “right” of self destruction 
and demoralization of the nation. 


True, “Johnny Barleycorn dies hard,” as expressed 
in common parlance, but nevertheless is dead, though 
perhaps we might say, figuratively, not buried. 


We still hear the rumble of words that would have 
the nation go back to pre-prohibition days; to the time 
when over two billion dollars annually were expended for 
liquor; when the outlay for intoxicants was more than 
double all the expenses of the Federal Government. 
One standing argument, if we may admit it as an 
argument for the sake of discussion is, that prohibition 
does not prohibit; that the law is continually being 
violated; that the craving for stimulants induces men 
to become criminals who otherwise would be law abiding 
citizens, in a word, that prohibition is a failure. 


If prohibition is a failure, because the law is 
violated, then our civilization existing under a code of 
laws is a failure because all man made laws are broken. 

It was my good fortune to be in that never to be 
forgotten and memorable battle of ballots that crushed 
the life out of the anti-prohibition party in the State 
of Washington in a fiercely contested election with 
98,843 votes against prohibition and 245,399 for. 


PROHIBITION 149 


During the first dry year’s experience, arrests for 
all offences in the state fell off from 18,225 in 1915 to 
10,650 in 1916, the law taking effect Jan. Ist, 1916, 
expenditure for intoxicants from eleven million dollars 
in 1915 to four hundred thousand in 1916. 


- In the battle of ballots referred to we encountered 
the fierce opposition of C. B. Blethen, Editor of the 
Seattle Times. He actually believed that prohibition 
would prostrate business in the state and fought pro- 
hibition to a finish. 


Six months after prohibition had taken effect, Mr. 
Blethen, like Saul of Tarsus, saw a great light, and 
like Saul became a teacher, and no more ardent pro- 
hibitionist can be found within the bounds of the state. 
Mr. Blethen recorded in his paper that instead of ruin 
to business an increase of 20 per cent occurred in a 
hundred retail stores; when customers began to pay in 
cash instead of soliciting credit; that labor efficiency 
in the logging camps increased 20 per cent; collections 
became easier; deposits in savings banks increased with 
many new accounts. 


In closing a full page article he wrote: ‘Out here 
in the State of Washington we are pretty dry now, 
but we’re going to be drier. And the drier we get the bet- 
ter business will be—that has been proved in this first 
great year. More and better clothes, more and better 
food for the wife and kiddies. More and better busi- 
ness for everybody; fewer and fewer people in the 
jails or behind in their bills. Can you beat it?” 


But Mr. Blethen was not the only one that saw the 
light. Johnny Barleycorn began to wriggle and showed 
signs of life resulting in another battle of ballots after 
ten months of prohibition with the result of nearly 
three to one against him with a stern admonition to lie 
still and confess he was dead. 


Glorious Progress this. 


CHAPTER XXI. 


EMANCIPATION 


Emancipation of Women as Important as That of Negro— 
Husband Was Supreme—Avenues of Advancement Closed to 
Women—The Apostle of Emancipation—Labored for Cause 
During Long Life—At Close of Rebellion Prospect Looked 
Gloomy—Influential Men Desert Cause—First W. R. Con- 
vention Held—Intolerance Rampant—Years of Struggle— 
Final Triumph—Eli Whitney’s Patent—The Cotton Plant of 
Ancient Origin—The “Power Gin’ Revolutionized the Indus- 
try—Lifted A Burden From Shoulders of Women—Caused 
A Great War—Brought About Abolition of Slavery—Great 
Advancement Of All Classes Followed—Beneficial Results 
Felt On the Coast—Slavery Hideous Institution—Auction 
Sales In Missouri—Pro-Slavery Brutality—World Better 
Since Emancipation. 


During my life time the emancipation of the women 
of the nation has been a no less momentous and progres- 
sive event, in the annals of the land, than that of the 
emancipation of the Negro. Some of my readers may 
look upon this assertion as an exaggeration; let us 
examine and see if it is not literally true. 


The slave holder, by the laws of this free (?) coun- 
try, was entitled to the earnings of his slave; so was 
the husband entitled by law to the earnings of his wife. 


The slave holder was entitled by law to control the 
children of his slave; so was the husband entitled to 
the control of his wife’s children; he might take them 
entirely from the possession of the mother, place them 
under the control of another and in his will he might 
cause the outrage to continue even after his death. 
What more could a slave holder do with the children 
of his slave? 


EMANCIPATION 151 


The negro slave could not sue in court; neither 
could a white man’s wife. A negro slave could not be 
taught in schools or, in fact, otherwise; the women of 
this free (?) nation were forbidden to enter the 
schools for higher education—a slavery different in 
degree only. 


The negro slave could not acquire or hold prop- 
erty; neither could the American white man’s wife. 


The negro slave could not inherit property; neither 
could the married American woman. 


The negro slave could not hold any office; neither 
could the American white woman. 


A negro slave could not speak in public; neither 
could a white woman. Perhaps this was not pro- 
hibited by statute law, but almost as absolutely by 
the law of public opinion. 


The negro slave could not enter the professions; 
neither could the white woman, married or unmar- 
ried. 


Seventy years ago there appeared an apostle of 
emancipation for negroes and white women in the 
person of a modest unassuming Quaker girl, Susan 
B. Anthony. Born between the months, date of the 
birth, (Feb. 15, 1920) of the two great emancipators 
of the centuries, George Washington and Abraham Lin- 
coln, Miss Anthony stands shoulder to shoulder with 
these two great historic names, in inflexible purpose, 
unyielding to clamor, innate honesty and endowed with 
mental caliber to impress her design upon the minds 
of others. 


She labored assiduously for the abolition of slavery 
and the great reform of prohibition while struggling 
for woman suffrage for sixty years and died March 
13th, 1906, past the age of 86 without having finished 
her great work; but the seed planted has accomplished 
what she so valiantly and persistently fought for. The 


152 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


slaves have been manumitted and enfranchised, women 
enfranchised and national prohibition accomplished. 


I met Miss Anthony the first time in Washington 
City at the Highteenth National Woman’s Suffrage 
Convention, held in February, 1886, and had oppor- 
tunity during three days of observing her while pre- 
siding over the convention. She had just reached the 
age of sixty-six and was a little bent by the years of 
service that she had borne, but for poise and tact 
and quick-witted action, I have never seen her superior. 


Probably no period of her life was more clouded 
in doubt and beset by disappointment than immed- 
iately after the close of the war of the great rebellion. 
Leaders of the republican and anti-slavery parties ad- 
vocating the enfranchisement of the former negro 
slaves cowardly abandoned the advocacy of woman 
suffrage in the fear that prejudice against woman 
suffrage might defeat the measure for negro enfran- 
chisement. Such men as Garrison, Phillips, Greeley, 
Curtis and a host of others of the most prominent men 
of the nation, who had been in close co-operation with 
Miss Anthony, now suddenly ceased to favor woman 
suffrage and persuaded most of the prominent leaders 
identified with the cause to follow them. To Mr. 
Tilton and Wendel Phillips, who attempted to persuade 
her, Miss Anthony, “highly indignant, declared that 
She would sooner cut off her right hand than ask the 
ballot for the black man and not for women,” kept 
firmly on the course she believed to be right and in 
the lapse of years had the satisfaction of greeting 
most of them back into the ranks for the cause. 


The negroes, when their right to vote was granted, 
followed the lead of the party that had secured their 
freedom and almost to a man voted against woman 
suffrage. 


Miss Anthony had devoted many years of her life 
to secure freedom and enfranchisement for the negroes, 
but did not allow the incident, however disappointing, 





COPYRIGHT BY 
UNDERWOOD & UNDERWOOD 


Elizabeth Cady Stanton Susan B. Anthony Lucretia Mott 


EMANCIPATORS 





EMANCIPATION 153 


and might truly be said exasperating, to swerve her 
from her life work to secure freedom for all. 


In July, 1848, the first Women’s Rights Conven- 
tion was held in Seneca Falls, New York. This was 
the first organized movement in the United States for 
the enfranchisement of women. Miss Susan B. An- 
thony, Mrs. Elizabeth Cady Stanton, Lucretia Mott, 
three most earnest workers, attended, and there began 
ineir life work that has made their names immortal by 
their persistent contention for the right of women to 
full citizenship and which after many years of weary 
labor finally succeeded. } 


I can well remember the arrogance and brutality 
manifested by the slave holders and their Northern 
sycophants for two decades before the emancipation 
of the slaves and with what hot indignation I exper- 
ienced it, that led me almost to the brink of belief in 
the doctrine of total depravity. Now, after seventy 
years of strenuous work, I can not say I wholly for- 
give the wrongs inflicted by this class under the color 
of law and by mob-violence upon the downtrodden 
negro. 


It was only upon later investigation that I came to 
realize that the spirit of tyranny was not confined to 
the slave holder, but likewise buried in the breast of 
many, both North and South, and was manifest against 
the unprotected by law, whether white or black, women 
or men. To illustrate a few incidents will suffice. 


The Sons of Temperance had announced a meeting 
of all the divisions of the State (New York) and in- 
vited the Daughters to send delegates. Miss Anthony 
Was appointed, her credentials were accepted and a 
seat in the convention given her. When she arose to 
speak to a motion, the presiding officer informed her 
the sisters were not invited to speak, but to listen and 
learn, whereupon she and other sisters left the hall 
and were called “bold, meddlesome, disturbers,’ and 
hooted as they passed out. 


154. SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


Again at another meeting “Ably Keller Foster” 
(who had been admitted as a delegate) tried to speak, 
but shouts of “order” drowned her voice, and after 
holding her position for ten minutes she was finally 
howled down. After they (the ladies) left the brick 
church meeting there were many speeches made con- 
demning the action of women in taking public part in 
any reform, led by Reverend Fowler of Utica, Rever- 
end Hewitt of Bridgeport, Connecticut, and Reverend 
Chambers. The last said he rejoiced that the women 
were gone, as they were now rid of the scum of the 
convention. 


Mayor Barton, who had threatened to resign rather 
than put the motion that Miss Anthony should be on 
the business committee, made a speech which the press 
declared too indecent to print. 


Again in New York City, September, 1853, Wendel 
Phillips accompanied her to Metropolitan Hall, where 
she delivered her credentials to the secretary, and 
after they were passed upon, the president, Neal Dow, 
informed her that she was a member of the conven- 
tion. Later, when she arose to speak to a motion, 
he invited her to the platform and then pandemonium 
broke loose. There were cries of “order, order,” hisses, 
Shouts of “She shall not speak,” and above all the 
voice of Reverend John Chambers, who, pointing his 
finger at her, cried over and over again: “Shame on 
the woman.” Miss Brown stood for an hour and a 
half on the platform in the midst of this bedlam, but 
was finally compelled to leave the hall. 


Upon another occasion in New York City (October, 
1858) Miss Anthony was greeted with a perfect storm 
of hisses. Finally, in towns where there were not 
enough people to create a disturbance, the meetings 
passed off quietly, but they were mobbed and broken 
up in every City from Buffalo to Albany. 


These quotations fromthe “Life Work of Susan B. 
Anthony,” by Ida Husted Harper, will suffice to illus- 


EMANCIPATION 155 


trate the intolerance of a large class of people. In 
many cases such demonstrations were often led by 
clergymen who, like the slave holder, tried to justify 
themselves by quotations from St. Paul. 1. “But suffer 
not a woman to teach nor to usurp authority over man 
but to be in silence.” 2 “Let your women keep silence 
in the churches, for it is not permitted unto them to 
speak.” 3 “Wives submit yourselves unto your own 
husbands as unto the Lord.” 4 “Servants be obedient 
to them that are your masters according to the flesh, 
with singleness of your heart as with Christ.” 1. 2nd 
Timothy 3 12-12. 2. 1 Cor. 14-34. 3. Ephesians 5-22, 
4, Ephesians 6-5. 


The Legislature of Washington by act passed in 
the year 1883 conferred the right of suffrage upon 
women. This act was declared void by the District 
Court at Spokane. This ruling was confirmed by the 
Supreme Court of the territory August 14, 1888, as 
will be seen by investigation, if not railroaded through 
the court, was at least put through at railroad speed. 


George Turner, in his plea before the Court, said: 
“We claim that Section 5 of the act which limits the 
power of the legislature to confer the right of suffrage 
to citizens of the United States, or to persons who 
have declared their intention to become such, etc., is 
to be read as if the word ‘Male’ was inserted before 
the word ‘Citizen.’ Those who insist. on the inter- 
pretation of Statutes according to their literal reading 
refuse to understand the philosophy (?) of the law.” 


Small wonder there came into the minds of many 
citizens a contempt for the law as administered and 
which extended to the legal profession and our courts. 


The next effort for woman suffrage was more suc- 
cessful. The following States had granted State wide 
suffrage: Wyoming (1869); Colorado (1895); Utah 
(1896); Washington (1910); California (1911); Kan- 
sas, Arizona and Oregon (19}2) ; Montana and Nevada 
(1914); New York (1917); Michigan, Oklahoma and 


156 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


South Dakota (1918). Finally in 1919 a resolution 
was passed by Congress submitting to the States a 
proposed amendment to the Federal Constitution ex- 
tending suffrage to women and later ratified by three- 
fourths of the States and became a part of the Con- 
stitution and the supreme law of the land. The Amend- 
ment reads: “The right of citizens of the United States 
to vote shall not be denied or abridged by the United 
States or by any State on account of sex.” And the 
great battle was ended and victory for the right won. 


February 15, 1921, a memorable scene in the “Hall 
of Fame,” under the dome of the great Capitol Build- 
ing at Washington was witnessed upon the occasion of 
unveiling of Statues of Susan B. Anthony, Elizabeth 
Cady Stanton and Lucretia Mott, in the presence of a 
great throng of women from all parts of the Nation 
who had assembled to honor the heroines and martyrs 
in the great cause of the enfranchisement of women 
and relief of suffering. 


For two hours the Capitol Building was literally 
turned over to the newly enfranchised women of the 
Nation to enshrine the heroines of the suffrage cause 
within the Hall of Fame (and in close proximity) 
where stand the likenesses of Washington and Lincoln. 


Progress this; and let us record it in large letters! 


When Eli Whitney in 1793 invented and secured a 
patent (signed by George Washington in 1794), for a 
cotton gin, he builded far better than he knew or any 
of his generation could foresee. 


Before the dawn of history folklore and fable 
reveals existence of the cotton plant, “Where grew a 
wonderful tree which yielded wonderful buds when 
ripe, that would burst and expose to view tiny lambs 
whose fleeces gave a pure white wool which the na- 
tives made into garments.” This, in the far East, 
before the dawn of civilization in Western Europe, 
or the advent of Christianity into the world. The 


EMANCIPATION 157 


fleeces of these “lambs” (the cotton buds) laid the 
foundation for the art of spinning and weaving, all 
hand work, that in turn grew into a vast traffic by 
camel train across the arid desert, and by tiny ships 
at sea. 


When Columbus in 1492 landed on the newly dis- 
covered shore, the natives met him with cotton yarn 
and thread for purpose of trade, thus demonstrating 
the existence of the wonderful tree that produced 
“Lambs with Fleeces,” white as the driven snow, soft 
as eider-down, strong beyond compare. The cotton 
fibre adhering so tenaciously to the ripened seed pre- 
sented an almost insurmountable obstacle for separa- 
tion by hand—a few pounds a day only to a diligent 
worker—thus very materially restricting its free use; 
but when the perfected power gin separated seven 
thousand pounds an hour, the way lay open for the 
unrestricted use of the precious boon by the inhabi- 
tants of the world, both rich and poor. The cotton- 
gin did for the cotton industry what the perfected 
McCormick harvester did for the cereals, opened the 
way for free use of the bounties of nature. Well do 
I remember the back-breaking experience with the 
sickle or hand cradle and have looked upon McCormick 
almost as the savior of mankind for food, and can 
now think of Whitney’s achievement in the same light 
in clothing the multitude of the lowly as well as of 
high estate. 


The lower animals are born with their clothing 
ready made. The dog has his coat of hair; the bird, 
a beautiful suit of feathers; fishes, their silver scales; 
the seal, the beaver, the otter, his cover of fur, but 
with man, “The eyes of them both opened and they 
knew. that they were naked; and they sewed fig leaves 
together and made themselves aprons.” “Unto Adam 
also and to his wife did the Lord God make coats of 
skin and clothed them.” 


From the earliest dawn of history, we read of 
clothing made of plaited leaves, inner bark of trees or 


158 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


skins of animals and finally from the fiber of plants, 
laboriously made by the hands of the single toilers until 
the advent of civilization or semi-barbarism measured 
step by step the emergence from barbarism to civiliza- 
tion in better clothing. 


Whitney’s achievement revolutionized the world, 
built up great empires, became the direct cause of 
war and finally resulted in the abolition of slavery. 


Without an unlimited supply of cotton, England 
could not have reached the zenith of power she did 
and the same may be said of other Empires of the 
world. Cotton became King with the United States as 
its empire and like many another King in the flesh, 
ruled with an iron hand until its insufferable intoler- 
ance and tyranny brought on revolt and overthrow 
from the throne. 


We will now go back a little way in the history 
to inquire how this came about. The founders of our 
Government knew they compounded with a wrong 
when they agreed to let slavery live within the borders 
of the new republic, but justified their action in the 
belief the institution would be unprofitable and soon 
disappear and so it did in the Northern States and so 
it would in the South had not the opportunity offered 
for the unlimited profitable production of cotton, made 
possible by the invention’ and introduction of the 
cotton-gin. The cotton industry grew apace and with 
its growth fastened slavery upon the nation, believed 
by the slave-holders to be permanent. 


The present generation can scarcely realize the 
hideous blemish of slavery upon the nation. The fol- 
lowing notice published in an almost adjoining State 
to where I lived at the time, with other following per- 
sonal experiences of intolerance will illustrate: 


“PUBLIC SALE, State of Missouri, County of Pike, to 
whom it may concern: The undersigned will on Tuesday, A. D. 
1846, sell at public outcry, for cash on premises, where Cook 
Creek crosses the old mission road, the following chattels, to-wit: 


EMANCIPATION 159 


6 yoke of oxen, with yoke and chain; 2 wagon beds; two nigger 
wenches; 4 buck niggers; 3 nigger boys; 2 plows; 25 steel traps; 
| barrel pickled cabbage; 1 hogshead of tobacco; 1 lot of 
nigger shoes; | spinning wheel; | loom; 13 fox hounds and a lot 
of other articles. I’m gwine to California. 

Richard Door, Crier. 

James Smith, Owner. 

Free head cheese, apples and hard cider.” 


The King (Cotton) decreed to rule or ruin. The 
war of the rebellion came; emancipation followed; the 
King dethroned and the temporal ruin fell upon 
him while the blessing in disguise wrought better con- 
ditions and eventual prosperity. 


A couple of years before this notice appeared in 
Missouri, I had, as a boy of fourteen, experienced brutal 
treatment by the pro-slavery sympathizers (mob) on 
the streets of Indianapolis; reviled and threatened be- 
cause I had free soil papers in my hand for delivery 
to subscribers—in one instance forcibly taken from 
me and destroyed before my eyes; an inoffensive, in- 
dustrious colored man had been set upon by a mob 
and murdered on a street of Indianapolis not a block 
away from where, at the time, I was working; a few 
miles out from the City I knew the Quaker father of 
the girl I did not “leave behind me” on the road to 
Oregon did not hesitate to harbor the hunted slave 
escaping from his brutal master. Small wonder with 
such experience that I should follow the footsteps of 
two brothers, respectively two and six years older, and 
with them become intensely anti-slavery and that I 
have remained so all these years since. 


How can any one say the world is not better than 
in the days of slavery and the slave trade? How can 
any one listen with patience to the tirade of agitators 
teaching the doctrine of discontent; that the laboring 
mass is downtrodden, oppressed and should rebel? 


Let the reader answer. 


CHAPTER XXII. 


INVENTIONS AND DISCOVERIES 


Atlantic Cable Bound Two Continents—Attempt to Reach 
Europe By Telegraph Line—McCormick Reaper—Immense 
Increase in Farm Values—Improvement In Printing Presses 
—Edison’s Achievements—The Wonderful Wireless—Patents 
Issued By Government Very Numerous—Success of Fulton’s 
Steamboat—First Baldwin Locomotive—Morse First Tele- 
gram Baltimore to Washington—Great Boon of Sewing 
Machines—List of Most Important Patents—The Average 
of Human Life Increased. 


In 1866 the first message that flashed under the 
ocean by the successful operation of the Atlantic cable 
bound the nations of the two continents of Europe and 
America together as one family, and soon after en- 
circled the whole world. 


Despairing in the accomplishment of this great 
achievement, an attempt to reach Europe by a tele- 
graph line through British Columbia, Alaska and Russia 
had progressed across the State of Washington with 
work on the line far to the North. The remains of 
the line may yet be obtained, though the Indians ap- 
propriated most of the wire and growth of timber 
obliterated the trail made by the builders. The line 
crossed the Puyallup Valley where I lived at the time, 
and over the line came the terrible news of the assassin- 
ation of Lincoln to spread dismay far and wide. To 
this day we have a highway known as the “Telegraph 
Road,”’ so named because it is along the line followed 
by the builders of this projected telegraph line. 


It was during the same year that the McCormick 
reaper was successfully introduced, though really in- 
vented in the year 1831. By successive stages over a 


INVENTIONS AND DISCOVERIES 161 


period of thirty years perfection was reached by the 
introduction of the self binder, when the invention 
became the greatest in results of any in the world; 
without this famine would now stalk the land unless 
a vast exodus from our cities to the country should 
occur to maintain the equilibrium between food pro- 
duction and consumption. The commercial value of 
all the branches of industry that owe their existence 
and prosperity to McCormick’s invention of the reaper 
is beyond conjecture. “The value of farms has in- 
creased from one billion dollars in 1866 to twenty 
billion in 1906—more than four times of all the manu- 
facturing enterprises in this country.” (Scientific 
American). 


From 1860 to 1870 great improvements were made 
in printing presses and application of power. As a 
boy of fourteen I worked in the press room where the 
power was a negro turning a crank with an output of 
nine thousand single sheets in ten hours; and have 
since seen the perfected Hoe Press turning off its tens 
of thousands an hour of double, quadruple or greater 
numbers and sizes. 


Then followed the decade of 1880-1890 with the 
wonders of Edison’s achievements in electrical work; 
the telephone, the incandescent light, the phonograph, 
and, it is recorded, nine hundred and seventy-four other 
patented inventions to bewilder the world. In this 
same decade the Bell telephone, improved by Edison, 
came into commercial use and soon ceased to be a 
novelty to amuse the curious. In quick succession 
came the wireless telephone to carry the human voice 
through space from ship to ship at sea. Can we be- 
lieve it? Yes, is there any more marvel in this than 
in the variegated colors of a flower? 


The jotting down of these few inventions has 
whetted my appetite for more and I can well believe 
my readers may be of the same spirit. While this 
wandering into a farther dim past is doing violence 


162 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


to my text “Seventy years of progress,” yet I feel an 
indulgent reader will follow if for no other reason 
than curiosity. 


From the days our Government was formally estab- 
lished to the present time, one million, one hundred 
twenty-five thousand patents have been issued, thus evi- 
dencing an intense activity in grasping the forces of 
nature for the use of mankind. 


Washington, when he built Mount Vernon, had to 
set his blacksmith at work to make nails, for there 
were no cut nails until 1775; then he could not have a 
circular saw to manufacture his lumber before that 
same year. Seven years after, viz.: 1782, steam engines 
came into use; finally the following year a _ balloon 
went up into the air for the first time; all plows had 
wooden mold boards until 1782 when a Scotchman 
named James Small cast one of iron and with iron 
shares. The next year James Cartwright, an English- 
man, revolutionized the world by inventing the power 
loom. It took a long time, though, to displace the hand 
loom; a half century afterwards I saw my mother beat- 
ing the filling in with her strong right arm, and my 
own life partner, the girl I did not “leave behind me” 
when I came to the Oregon country, strengthened her 
arms and body at the loom and wheel in her younger days. 
John Fitch, an American, has the honor of building the 
first steamboat in the United States; but we are not 
told it was a success; we will come to that later. 
Then an attempt was made by Oliver Evens in 1789 
to introduce a steam wagon (automobile) but that 
too failed if for no other reasons than for lack of 
smooth roads. 1788 an Englishman invented a grain 
threshing machine, but he must have kept it well to 
himself, for I know by experience fifty years after we 
were still threshing by the flail, or tramping out by 
horses. A wood planing machine was introduced in 
1791, or at least it was in England, invented by Samuel 
Bentham; 1792 gas was first used as an illuminant, but 
we for long years used the dim light of a candle or the 


INVENTIONS AND DISCOVERIES 163 


saucer of lard with a cotton wick in the center for 
our chief illumination. 


In 1794 Eli Whitney, an American, revolutionized 
the cotton industry by the use of the cotton gin of 
which there appears a full account in another chapter. 
In 1806 an ingenious Frenchman named Jeandean in- 
vented a knitting machine. The very next year (1807) 
Robert Fulton built his famous steamboat and navi- 
gated the Hudson River with it. A year after John 
Stevens, an American, built a steamboat called the 
Phoenix and went to sea in it. What a voyage! We 
wonder what kind of a boat it was. In 1825, Joseph 
Aspin, an Englishman, made the first Portland cement. 
In 1827 the first friction matches appeared. Prior to 
this our ancestors, to produce fire, must need either 
preserve coals buried in ashes, use the flint, or by fric- 
tion as practiced by ancient peoples, including our own 
native tribes that first possessed this fair land. 


I remember we used to be very saving in the use 
of matches, and many are the times I lighted my 
mother’s pipe with coals of fire. 


Of great importance, the next year (1830) port- 
able steam fire engines were introduced; and chloro- 
form the following year; the first to preserve the ma- 
terial resources of the country, the second to alleviate 
the sufferings of mankind. 


In the midst of these great events, I first saw the 
light of day on the 29th of December, 1830. Born of 
stalwart parents, scantily clad until in my “teens,” fed 
on simple diet, principally the products of corn, my 
younger days were passed in blissful ignorance of what 
wonderful changes lay before the world. Not so with 
many matured minds who foresaw the impending trans- 
formation and lent their energies to hasten it. Look- 
ing back over the vista of years I can but wonder at 
the change that has come in this short period as com- 
pared to the centuries which had preceded it; a period 
of one century that had equalled in advance of human 


164 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


knowledge and achievements that of all preceding his- 
torical records. What the prehistoric days could dis- 
close we are left to conjecture. I look forward with a 
firm faith for greater things to come in the no distant 
future. 


1832—In this year “Old Ironside’ locomotive was 
built, the pride of a Baldwin, the founder of a house 
that has endured to this day in this same line. I visited 
their extensive works in Philadelphia eighteen years 
after I had built my first cabin in the Puget Sound 
Basin, to find a vast network of machinery and an army 
of mechanics industriously constructing what was then 
thought to be the acme of perfection—mere pigmies 
as compared with the hundred ton monsters of the 
present day. 


1833-1834—-Witnessed the introduction of the ‘“‘saw 
tooth cutter’ for reapers and mowers by Obid Hussey 
and Cyrus McCormick, a step towards the grand 
achievement in later years. 


1839—We now skip to 1839, when Louis Daguerre 
first produced a photographic positive, universally after- 
wards known as tintype or daguerreotype, to excite 
the wonder of the generation then living, and opened 
the field for the notable achievements of the present 
day. I have one of those precious tintypes of my 
father (born in 1804) before me as I write, and one 
of myself taken nearly seventy years ago (see illus- 
tration). Compare these with modern day photo- 
graphs if you wish to realize the wonderful progress 
made in the passage of years. 


1843—And so it came about we had the typewriter 
(a very crude affair) in 1843, invented by Charles 
Thurbur, but did not come into general use for many 
years. 


1844—-In 1844, Prof. Morse sent his first telegram 
from Baltimore to Washington and demonstrated the 
practicability of transmitting messages by wire to dis- 


INVENTIONS AND DISCOVERIES 165 


tant points. Five years afterwards, passing along the 
National road near Indianapolis, I heard the hum on 
the wires caused by the wind and thought it was the 
transmission of messages, and confess, as a boy, to a 
feeling of awe, or one might almost say superstition. 
I had never seen a telegraph line before, but had heard 
the exclamation of a neighbor woman: “Why, Lawsy 
Massy, I can’t see how they send letters over that 
thing without tearing them all to pieces;” and neither 
could I, but I couldn’t get away in a hurry, as I was 
riding a grist of corn to mill and the supper depended 
on its safe-keeping. That same year the electric are 
light was invented, but like many other inventions, did 
not go into use for many years after. 


1845—The next year, 1845, the cylinder printing 
press and the pneumatic tire were both patented and 
laid the foundation for future achievement. 


We come now to an epochal time to lighten the 
burden of hard labor from off the shoulders of our 
women. Elias Howe invented the sewing machine, 
and from that day to the present this great boon has 
been enjoyed by the women of the land. Be it said, 
though, as facilities for rapidly multiplying stitches 
came, there came with it a desire for more and more 
(stitches) not obtainable under the old system, until 
some are ready to exclaim there is a greater burden 
than ever. 


From this date to the birth of our territory (March 
2, 1853) there first came into notice artificial limbs, 
chloroform in surgery, the time-lock, Corliss engine, 
cylinder printing press, electric locomotive, self-raker, 
combined harvester and half-tone photographic printing. 
For convenience of ready reference a few of the more 
important are given in tabular form. 


Total patents issued 1790-1918: 1,125,000. 


1775—Cut Nails. 
1775—Circular wood saws. 
1782—Steam engine, of the modern type. 


166 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


1783—Gas balloon. 

1784—Iron moldboard for plows. 

1786—First steamboat in United States. 

1787—Steam road wagon. 

1788—Grain threshing machine. 

1790—Wood planing machine. 

1792—Gas first used as an illuminant. 

1794—Cotton gin. 

1800—Art of lithographing. 

1801—Wood mortising machines. 

1802—First phonograph experiment. 

1802—Planing machine. 

1803—Steel pens. 

1804—Steam locomotives on rails. 

1806—Knitting machines. 

1807—Steamboat navigated on the Hudson. 

1808—First steamboat to make a trip to sea. 

1810—Revolving cylinder printing press. 

1814—-First circular wood saw in the United States. 

1815—Modern safety lamps. 

1821—Conversion of the electric current into mechani- 
cal motion. 

1820—Calculating machine. 

1825—Portland cement. 

1825—First railroad passenger train (England). 

1826—First railroad in the United States near Green- 
ing, Massachusetts. 

1829—First steam locomotive in United States. 

1830—First portable steam fire engine. 

1831—Chloroform. 

1832—Old Ironside locomotive built. 

1834—McCormick reaper. 

1844—-First telegram sent. 

1844—Electric arc light. 

1846—Ether as an anaesthetic. 

1846—Artificial limbs. 

1846—First piano key-board player. 

1847—Chloroform in surgery. 

1847—Hoe’s printing press. 

1851—Electric locomotive. 


INVENTIONS AND DISCOVERIES 167 


1851—Ice making machine. 

1853—First efficient type-setting machine. 
1856—Sleeping cars. 

1857—Coal oil first sold in United States. 
1858—Cable car line. 

1861—Driven wells. 

1861—Barbed wire. 

1862—First iron clad. 
1868—Oleomargarine. 

1869—Air brakes. 

1872—Automatic air brake. 

1873—Twine binder. 

1873—Self binding reaper. 

1875—Roller flour mills. 

1876—First Portland cement plant in United States. 
1876—Telephone. 

1877—Phonograph. 

1877—Gas engine. 

1878—Typewriter. 

1878—Half-tone engraving process. 
1879—Steam plow. 

1884—Linotype machine. 

1884—Trolley car. 

1885—First electric railway in United States. 
1887—Incandescent electric light. 
1880—Kodak snapshot. 

1889—First practical horseless wagon—the automobile. 
1891—-Power loom. 

1892—Gasoline motor. 

1893—Motion picture machine. 
1895—Electric locomotive. 

1895—X-rays. 

1895—Motorcycle. 

1896—Wireless telegraphy. 
1898—Submarine. 

1903—Aeroplane. 

1912—-Machine gun (Lewis). 


The science of medicine, surgery and _ sanitation 
have, during the century under review, increased the 


168 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


average of human life full fifteen years—from twenty- 
nine to forty-four—more by preventing epidemics than 
by curing the sick. Further, the introduction of the 
use of ether in surgical operations to prevent pain 
was one of the greatest events of the century thus 
stripping the surgeon’s table of its agonizing horror, 
and contributing to the happiness of the human family 
by preventing suffering. 


The spread of democracy over so wide a civilized 
region of the world is decisive testimony of a better 
world. We here, living under the noble flag of the 
Stars and Stripes, scarcely realize what has taken 
place within the century, especially since the stain of 
slavery has been wiped off our emblem of Liberty; slave 
trade suppressed the world over, prohibition enacted 
and our women enfranchised. Our own precious gov- 
ernment has led the way to achieve these great results 
and is now the beacon light of the world leading on- 
ward and upward. In the ripening of years with our 
wide experience and matured judgment; with our 
minds moving us to strive for the betterment of man; 
with a will to strive to do God’s Will, let us look for- 
ward with hope and faith that in the distant future 
the world will finally reach the goal of universal hap- 
piness. 


CHAPTER XXIII. 


LAND OF MILK AND HONEY 


No Bees on Coast When Immigrants Came—First Bees on Puget 
Sound Received by Author 1856—Sent By Old Partner 
Wiliam Buck—Honey Business Has Grown To Huge Propor- 
tions on Coast—The Great Varieties of Clover Here Made it 
Possible—Clover Also Helped to Develop Dairying—Now 
Indeed Has This Land Become a Land of Milk and Honey 
—Bees Familiar to the Ancients. 


And «God called..* “*  ** :\unto’ Moses ..* 74%. * 
and said: And I am come down to deliver them out of 
the land of the Egyptian, and to bring them out of 
that land unto a good land and a large, unto a land 
flowing with milk and honey.” Ex. 3:8. 


When the author crossed the Missouri River in 
May, 1852, on his way to the Oregon Country, he left 
the honey bee behind him. Not a bee was to be seen 
on the Plains, and to the surprise of many and chagrin 
of all found there were none in the Oregon Country, 
or, in fact, none west of the Rocky Mountains. 


Further, they found that the sugar maple tree also 
was absent from the forests, and hence found not only 
their home supply of sweets cut off, but likewise their 
spring outing of the sugar camp, a joy forever, gone. 


The great achievement of the century, the production 
of sugar from the beet, had not then been introduced 
into the United States, though produced in Europe for 
near half a century. 


William Buck, an intrepid enterprising pioneer, who 
was my partner on the Plains until we reached the 
forks of the road, one leading to the Oregon Country, 


170 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


the other to California, later brought two shipments of 
bees across the Isthmus of Panama, a hazardous though 
successful venture. 


To accomplish this he shipped thirty hives from 
New York by steamer, packed them across the Isthmus, 
there to re-ship by sea to San Francisco, and thence 
to San Felipe by wagon, where he arrived safely with 
the loss of several swarms; a second trip was equally 
successful, and from this start sprung the great re- 
sults of shipping honey by the train load from the 
Pacific to Atlantic Coast, and we are yet only in the 
beginning of reaping the benefit of the harvest so 
industriously garnered by our friends, the little busy 
bees, from the hidden source of the clover and modest 
flowers that beautify our fields. 


My father used to tell me that wherever red clover 
would grow that I need not hesitate to plant other 
seed with confidence of getting returns; that where 
clover would grow we could be certain to have plenty 
of milk and butter, fat hogs, fat cattle, in a word, live 
in a land of plenty. 


Now we have the varieties of clover and alfalfa in 
cultivation that will give us both milk and honey in 
greater abundance; that is, clover in which the honey- 
bee can reach the precious nectar which it cannot do 
with the old variety, the red clover, that we raised 
almost exclusively in my boyhood days. 


One morning, while at breakfast, I think it was in 
1856, but am not certain as to exact date, a man 
knocked at my door and when met with greetings, said 
that four swarms of bees had just been landed on the 
wharf for me by the Steamer ‘Sea Bird” from San 
Francisco (I think that was the name of the steamer, 
but again am not certain.) At that time a steamer 
line had been plying between San Francisco and the 
ports of Puget Sound, and quite regularly, twice a 
month, a steamer landed at Steilacoom, where I then 
lived. 


LAND OF MILK AND HONEY 171 


If the bees had been landed in my door yard from 
mid air I could scarcely have been more surprised. 
Where on earth did they come from? I do not think 
I finished my breakfast at that time, being too eager 
to ascertain more about the strange shipment. 


The mystery was soon solved by a letter from my 
old time partner of the plains, “Billy Buck” (as I 
always called him) giving a brief account of his ven- 
tures and of his success. 


Afterwards I learned that Buck sent a few swarms 
to a Mr. Knowles, then living in Oregon, and after- 
wards in the Cowlitz Valley in Washington. From 
these shipments, so far as I have been able to ascer- 
tain, has sprung the great business on the Pacific slope 
of garnering thousands of tons of honey annually, 
where none were secured before. 


Progress, this? Yes, Buck deserves a monument for 
this great achievement. 


By hieroglyphic record in the British museum we 
learn the honey bee was known to the ancients 3633 
years b. C. and by numerous references in our scrip- 
tures, in the days of the prophets. 


Evidently in those days no “Bee keeping’ was 
practiced. “Chased you as bees do.” Deut. 1:44. ‘“Be- 
hold there was a swarm of bees and honey in the car- 
cass of the lion.” Judges, 14:8. 


During many years of the last century the bee 
hunter flourished and was looked upon as a gifted 
being, while scant attention was paid to aid the little 
bee in his work. 


I can well remember when the bee was “robbed,” 
by destroying the life of the swarm with fumes of 
sulphur, killing the queen as well as the workers and 
contents of the hive, containing bee-bread, partly ma- 
tured young bees and in many cases blackened old comb 
was appropriated. 


172 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


It is different now when the bee keeper can lift the 
frame with its load of beautiful comb filled with pure 
honey and if he wants only the honey can place the 
frame into the centrifugal swift revolving motion, drain 
off his honey and replace the expensive honey comb 
back into the hive to be filled again and again; or he 
may introduce the cheaper manufactured comb in 
which the little busy inmates of the hive will deposit 
his precious load fresh from the fields. 


In no other branch of rural industry has there 
been greater progress than in the occupation of bee 
keeping; profitable as a business, pleasant as a pas- 
time, ennobling in its effect upon the individual, to 
remain a cherished memory in life. 


In the United States Department of Agriculture 
Bulletin No. 685 (June 20, 1918), I find this item: 
“The leading commercial authorities in the United 
States on honey bees and production estimate that the 
total production is considerably in excess of 200,000,- 
000 pounds. 


Table showing the production of honey in the three 
Pacific Coast states in dates shown. 


1859 1869 1879 1889 1899 1909 1920 
Washingtor ................ 5256 256386 20005 156435 530790 503580 1,596,206 
QPEROD Pine roanken 821 66858 122348 435028 979140 S89981) . case a 
California. © .nc2.n Lecco 12276 2943826 574029 8929889 3667788 10264715 .............. aa 


George H. Himes, that painstaking historian of 
Portland, Oregon, in response to my inquiry many 
months after the foregoing was written, sent me the 
following: 


“T. T. Eyre, an Englishman, a pioneer of 1843, was 
living on a farm a few miles east of Salem in 1858, and on 
July 3rd of that year wrote a letter giving an account of the 
introduction of bees in Oregon, which appeared in the Oregon 
Farmer, of August, 1858, Vol, t, No!) 1): From. this letter 


I condense the following: 


“William Buck, of San Jose, Cal., left New York on 
Nov. 5th, 1855, with 30 hives of bees for California and 
arrived with one-half of them. In F. ebruary, 1856, he started 


LAND OF MILK AND HONEY Lis 


out with 42 hives, and managed to get through with seven. 
A third trip was made in 1857, and he arrived at San 
Francisco with 83 hives, half of which he saved. 


“In the winter of 1856-57 Mr. Buck brought ten hives 
from California to Oregon and in the fall of the latter 
year he brought thirty more. The price was $100.00 to $125.00 
per hive. At the date this letter was written there were nine 
hundred hives in California, three hundred twenty-four hives in 
Oregon, fourteen in Clark County, Washington Territory. I 
personally know there were more than fourteen in Washington 
Territory, as S. D. Ruddell and David J. Chambers had several 
swarms, as well as the Pattison families, Andrew J. Chambers 
also, on Chambers’ prairie. (I had nineteen more myself. M.) 


“The first attempt to introduce bees in Oregon was by one 
Dr. Wood, of Polk County, across the plains. He was able 
to get them through, or almost through, when he lost them 
all by upsetting a wagon. That was in 1852, I believe, although 
I cannot verify that, at present.” 


CHAPTER XXIV. 


BACK TO THE FARM 


Movement From Country to City a Menace—Farm Life Should 
Be Made More Attractive—Good Roads Will Be Great Help 
—Schools and Churches Should Be Encouraged—Country 
Boy Generally Superior To City Raised—Make Farming 
More Profitable—Admission of Ignorant Foreigners Not a 
Remedy—Improved Conditions On Farms. 


Back to the farm is a subject in the minds of 
many, and a theme for outspoken condemnation of the 
movement from the country to the city, but one may 
preach till the “crack of doom” without results unless 
he can reach the pockets of the people as well as their 
reason and withal make country life as pleasant as 
city life. 


In the beginning, less than four per cent of the 
citizens of the new born nation lived in the cities, 
while now more than fifty per cent are huddled to- 
gether, having bid goodbye to country life. This 
movement away from the farm is a serious menace 
to the moral and material welfare of our nation; and 
I am moved to add the perpetuity of our institutions. 
I will not, however, go that far, believing that even- 
tually the situation will become so acute that other 
influences will work to check the flow from country 
to city. 


Had it not been for the wonderful advance in agri- 
cultural labor-saving devices, famine ere this would 
stalk the land. The great increase in population and 
great disparity between producers and consumers 
would have rendered it physically impossible to pro- 
duce and harvest enough food to feed the multitude. 


BACK TO THE FARM 175 


Another factor, the virgin soil of a continent, yielding 
its wealth, has contributed to present resulting plenty. 
We have been living off the fat of the land; mortgaging 
the future’ to the detriment of later generations to 
follow, and shame of the present. This seems a harsh 
word, but is true. One instance alone (and there are 
many) will suffice. In England, with a climate and soil 
not so responsive as vast areas of our nation the aver- 
age yield of wheat is more than double that of the 
United States, and this upon land farmed for cen- 
turies. The abandoned farms of New England are a 
mute witness to the waste of our heritage. 


A more cheerful outlook is before us. The govern- 
mental experiment stations and farms point the way 
to better methods of farming, although as yet, only a 
beginning. Our own state college alone is sending out 
over a hundred specialist lecturers for each year; 
doubtless the same campaign is now prosecuted else- 
where in the nation, forming an influential army in 
the good work. The enthusiastic good roads sentiment 
pervading the whole continent is a leaven pointing to 
better ways to make country life more attractive, 
cheapen transportation from farm to market, induce 
greater numbers of small farmers to make the farm a 
home instead of merely a business venture, make pos- 
sible the country high school by transporting children 
to a common center, build up church centers because of 
greater numbers of population accessible, and finally, 
greatest of all influences, promote contentment and 
love of country. 


I venture to say the average boy raised on a farm 
is better, physically, morally, and shall I add intel- 
lectually, in the sense of applied attainments, than the 
average city lad. The American people should give the 
subject “Back to the Farm” their most serious thought 
as a subject fraught with grave danger to our better 
civilization. 

“Forewarned, forearmed” is an adage we should not 
forget. History warns us of our danger; historians 


176 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


have recorded many instances of decadence of nations 
from this cause. The tragic disintegration of the 
Roman Empire that is directly traceable to this cause 
is a standing warning; the pilot that looks ahead, 
steers his ship clear of danger points; the alert traveler 
is always alive to shun pitfalls that« might be his un- 
doing; the discreet business man will carefully scan 
the future before he enters into an enterprise; the 
housewife will note the tomorrow’s call to look ahead; 
in every phase of our civilization we feel this caution 
to look beyond the present; then why, as a part of 
this great and growing nation, should we as individuals, 
shut our eyes and cut off our vision to the peril of 
the future. I say again: “Forewarned, forearmed.” 


But, as I have said before, unless we can reach the 
pockets, that is, show that farming can be made profit- 
able in the larger meaning of the word, preaching will 
not avail. It has been my fortune to have been a 
farmer nearly all of my life—forty-two years on one 
quarter section our government assigned me as a home- 
stead, hence I may be pardoned if I should assume 
in part of what follows to relate experience while re- 
cording history from other sources. 


Let us now read a lesson in Roman history as re- 
corded by that gifted author and accurate historian 
“Guglielmo Ferrero” in his recent work “Ancient Rome 
and Modern America.” 


“From the third century onwards, the excessive 
urbanization in the Roman Empire, which had been 
the cause of the splendor and apparent wealth of the 
preceding century, began to change into a dissolving 
force, which drove that brilliant world back into 
chaos from which urbanization had evolved it. Little 
by little the expenditure of the urban civilization, the 
cities and their increasing luxury, out-distanced the 
fertility of the countryside, and from that moment, 
the latter began to be depopulated and sterilized by the 
cities. With each succeeding generation, the impulse 


BACK TO THE FARM a tyiti 


toward the cities became stronger. The numbers and 
requirements of the modern population increased.” 


That is precisely what has occurred in the United 
States during my ninety years of life, covering as we 
know by the average span of life, near three genera- 
tions. Again quoting from the same author: 


“In order to feed, amuse, and clothe crowded city 
population; to carry through the construction of the 
magnificent monuments, whose ruins we still admire; 
to provide work for the industries and arts of the 
cities; agriculture was, little by little, ground down by 
ever increasing burdens. The impulse towards the 
cities increased, and one day the Empire awoke to 
find its cities were swarming with beggars, idlers, 
vagabonds, masons, plasterers, sculptors, painters, 
dancers, actors, singers—in short, the whole tribe of 
the artisans of pleasure and luxury. But in the fields 
which were expected to feed all their men who had 
crowded into the cities to work or to idle, there was 
a dearth of peasants to cultivate the land * * * 
Aggravated by one of the most tremendous blunders 
in the annals of history, the crisis became insoluble. 
The agriculture of the Empire, and with it, the Empire 
itself, received its death-blow.” 


The author from which these quotations are taken 
believes this civilization has greater strength to combat 
the evils outlined than in the Roman age, but will be 
able to do so, because it does not contain within itself 
the germ of the cancer which destroyed the Roman 
world. 


These reflections, while disquieting, are not con- 
clusive as to the final outcome, nevertheless, it is the 
duty of all who love their free institutions to ponder 
well these problems that confront the nation. 


In an argument discussing this subject, the asser- 
tion was made that the country-raised youth of the 
present generation would not stay on the farm, and 


178 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


that the remedy lay in the continuation of our foreign 
policy of admitting foreign laborers admittedly ig- 
norant and therefore content to accept what was termed 
an inferior position in life. If this argument had not 
gravely been made by a native born citizen, I would 
hardly dare record it. The proposed remedy would be 
more dangerous than the disease and would only hasten 
a catastrophe instead of preventing it. 


How any man or boy, woman or girl, can from 
choice eschew the country and prefer the city life is 
past my power of comprehension, but I know there 
are thousands, shall I say millions, that do and to 
ascertain the cause while recording the ninety years of 
progress during my life is my sincere desire, and find- 
ing the cause, point the remedy. 


Let us now indulge in some old time reminiscences 
back nearly to my fourth birthday. 


I can remember when the sickle, the hand cradle, 
the hand rake and mowing scythe were the only harvest 
tools we had. At that time there were no more than 
20,000,000 inhabitants in the United States and nearly 
all lived in the country—certainly not more than eight 
per cent of these in the cities; now the ratio is re- 
versed and fifty per cent of the hundred and ten million 
have gone to the cities. Had not McCormick and othcr 
inventors come to the rescue with the harvester, mower, 
sulky rakes and like inventions, we could not now 
thresh all the grain raised by the old methods of the flail, 
or tramping out process. The steam threshing machine 
again came to the rescue. The roller flouring mills 
have displaced the old fashioned burrs requiring the 
tedious frequent dressing. The exchange of fiour for 
the grist of wheat has gone into the discard. I can 
remember going to mill with a few sacks of grain and 
wait my turn for the grist to be ground, sometimes all 
day and not infrequently over night as well. These 
“Ways” are gone and who will dare say the new are 
not better. 


BACK TO THE FARM 179 


I can remember when the “Razor Back’ acorn fed 
hog was common, with his long snout, long curled tail, 
long hair and lean ham; now the improved breeds, too 
numerous here to catalog, have occupied the field to 
more readily assimilate food, arrive early at maturity, 
supply a carcass of more than thrice the weight and 
of quality in which there can be no comparison with 
its predecessors, the “Razor Back.” Progress, shall 
I say. 


I never but once remember an accusation of being 
erazy alleged against me and then only by non-progres- 
sive farmers. Having come into possession of a 
farm with a large number of long “snouts,” I mar- 
shalled my men with guns in their hands and shot 
every one of them, big and little, old or young, and rid 
the place of a real nuisance. It was the only way out 
from a heavy loss. 


Then take the long horned, slab sided, visible ribbed, 
light quartered “scrub stock” of cattle common in our 
pioneer days; now followed, transformed, shall I say, 
by intelligent breeding to the ideal beauties seen in 
our dairy barns at the fat stock shows, on thousands 
of farms, and extensive ranges of the wide west. The 
“Dunghill” fowls of the barnyard have in a measure 
disappeared and numerous improved breeds have taken 
their place, cared for by the intelligent guardians in 
clean, well ventilated quarters, to yield their increased 
quota of eggs or better quality and increased quantity 
of meat. Take the horse, our boon companion, one we 
are loath to exchange for the more rapid movement of 
the automobile, a comrade, shall I say, compare the 
serub stock so long prevalent with the massive Per- 
cheron, the Clydesdale or the fleet trotters; to name 
the extremes will suffice to show the progress. 


CHAPTER XXV. 


AGRICULTURE 


In the Beginning no Faith in Agricultural Possibilities—People 
Thought Territory Unsuited for Farming—Nine Out of 
Ten Came Here to be Farmers—Inland Empire Classed as 
Desert—Now More Than Half Value of Agricultural Prod- 
ucts Over There—Dry Farming Around Walla Walla— 
Large Crops Raised—Pioneer Reminiscence—Hop Culture 
in the Puyallup—Immense Yield—Industry Ruined by 
Hop Louse—Agricultural Table—Both State and Counties. 


In the beginning of the life of Washington the 
belief prevailed, notably among our so-called statesmen, 
that the new Territory and future State could never 
aspire to become an agricultural country. The frown- 
ing forests of the western portion and wide expanse 
of arid land of the eastern section seemed to forbid 
aspiration in the line of rural life. Nor did the early 
settlers, the pioneers, who afterward builded so well 
realize the great latent heritage that lay beneath their 
feet until by the gradual process of development the 
fact dawned upon all that we possessed the great prize, 
the foundation seat of agriculture, and civilization, in 
our soil, climate, and mountain streams, a combination 
seldom, if ever equaled elsewhere on God’s footstool. 


I first traversed the great Yakima Valley from 
above the mouth of the Naches to the Columbia 
River in September, 1854, which was long before 
a single white man or woman had made settlement in 
that region and but few had ever laid eyes upon it 
except a few passing immigrants arriving from off 
the great Plains, the then so called “Great American 
Desert.” In common with thousands: of others I did 
not think of this “Plain,” which I had traversed two 


AGRICULTURE 181 


years previously, (1852) as other than a desert country, 
nor did I dream that the valley I had just passed 
through possessed a dormant agricultural value. 


It was an irrepressible restlessness that moved the 
older heads to do and dare; that peopled the western 
trails and landed many on the shores of the Pacific 
with their restlessness tempered yet not suppressed 
and. prompted action to battle with zeal the serious 
problems of life that confronted them upon arrival. 


I venture to say that nine out of ten who traversed 
the trail to the Oregon Country came from the farm 
and came to Oregon to be farmers and founders of a 
new state, or states in what was then known as the 
“Wil-a-mettee” Valley of widely exaggerated extent. 


Many fell by the wayside as they travelled; others 
succumbed after the journey was ended; but the great 
body of bone and sinew, resolutely took up the task, 
“worked off” their exuberant spirits and prepared for 
the serious duties of life confronting them were even 
then grey-beards at the beginning of the struggle. 


We did not have at the beginning the tools of 
later day workers. The hand cradle was a relief from 
the sickle; the hand power wind-mill to separate the 
grain from the chaff, a great improvement over the 
earlier way of the blanket wielded by two stalwarts 
while a third “fed” the mixed grain and chaff to the 
artificial air current. 


It fell to my lot to have a part, at the beginning, 
with the life of our Washington, to pull up the agricul- 
tural hill on the slope toward the summit, that later 
hands have moved forward, with no summit yet in 
sight. 

The flail early gave way to the tramping floor, and 
the grist mills soon banished the boiled whole wheat 
from the dinner table. 


Ere long there came the mowing machine, the 
harvester, then the threshing machine; followed by the 
combined harvester and thresher; preceded by the sulkey 


182 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


plow, the seeder, the disk harrow; in a word, all of the 
improved agricultural machinery of the age, not forget- 
ting the tractor plow. 


In early days we did not look upon the Inland 
Empire, otherwise known as the Columbia River Basin, 
or Kastern Washington, as an agricultural country. The 
prevalent belief that this whole region, with but 
restricted exceptions, would be devoted to the grazing 
of herds of cattle or flocks of sheep soon changed under 
the intelligent culture of the pioneer farmers, whose 
vision pointed the way to successful agricultural and 
horticultural pursuits. 


If the reader will possess patience long enough to 
scan the statistical table by counties, numbered four, 
(herewith reproduced), by the census bureau, he will 
there discover that more than half of the value of the 
agricultural products (including fruit) of the state 
is produced in the nineteen counties lying east of the 
Cascade Range of Mountains in this once condemned 
region. 


Of live stock in the State valued at $77,572,000, 
the same percentage holds good for the eastern counties, 
with the exception of dairy cows and poultry which 
is held by the Western Division. 


I came from the farm in Indiana to the Oregon 
country to be a farmer in Oregon. As I have said else- 
where, I never came to Washington, Washington came 
to me; in other words, resided within the boundaries 
of the new territory when created, and so far as I 
know, the only survivor of adults here at the birth 
of the territory. 


I have never established residence elsewhere outside 
the boundaries of the territory and state and for forty- 
one years resided upon and cultivated our homestead 
quarter section in the Puyallup Valley; hence to an 
extent can write from first knowledge. Our experiences 
(I am speaking of myself and wife) in the beginning 





GRAIN HARVESTER IN INLAND EMPIRE 





MODERN CULTIVATION IN EASTERN WASHINGTON 


ms 


an 


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AGRICULTURE 183 


represented extreme primitive pioneer life, that pointed 
the way to prosperous days, though I will not say 
happier days for the whole period of fifty-eight years 
we walked together were happy days. 


One unheralded, unexpected event in our _ lives, 
and in the lives of many others was the introduction 
of hop culture in the Puyallup Valley. My father, 
Jacob Redding Meeker, encouraged by a brewer of 
Olympia, Charles Wood, planted about a peck of hop 
roots on his farm near Sumner, in the Puyallup Valley 
in the Spring of 1865. He gave me a few sets or 
cuttings—roots we called them—about the size of my 
little finger and not much longer, which I planted the 
same year. The plants grew apace; bore a considerable 
crop the same year and marketed at Olympia—180 
pounds at 85 cents a pound—brought more than my 
father received for all other crops grown on his place 
that year. Attracted by this result, his adjoining 
neighbor, E. C. Mead, mentioned elsewhere, and partner, 
L. F. Thompson, procured a barrel of roots the next 
year from California. I also planted more. From this 
small beginning, in the following twenty-two years, 
more than twenty million dollars was paid out to hop 
growers of this territory and Oregon. My own exports 
to London reached the sum of over half a million 
dollars annual average for several years which caused 
me to follow or precede our shipments for four years 
where I remained ‘‘on the market” for six months of 
each year. The fact developed, that in our moist 
cool climate coupled with our method of handling the 
crop, we were able to compete in the world’s markets 
in quality and at a cost of production far below that 
of the older districts of the Atlantic States or of Europe. 
The English growers ceased to renew their yards, 
plowed up thousands of acres until the total destruction 
reached fifteen thousand acres. 


I can truly say the result following the introduc- 
tion of hop culture in Washington amazed the world 
and the hop growers as well. 


184 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


A little ancient history of current events will not 
only be interesting, yet likewise illustrate the wonderful 
results. 


I wrote, under the headlines “Farm and Home” 
and the Seattle Post Intelligencer, published October 
30th, 1887, “The biggest story out’, as follows: 


Thomas Sharkey lives in the White River Valley, 
and is a respectable and truthful citizen. He tells us 
he has seven acres and one hundred hills of hops, or 
in round numbers, seven acres and an eighth; that in 
the year 1884 he harvested off this yard 25,990 pounds 
of hops, weight as sold; in 1885, 20,050 pounds; in 
1886, 25,180 pounds; in 1887, 16,508 pounds; 87,728 
pounds of hops in four years sold off this seven and one- 
eighth acres. This is an average of over 3,000 pounds 
per acre for four consecutive years and is hard to 
beat in any country. 


Mr. Sharkey hesitated to tell this, fearing his word 
would be doubted and referred by name to the parties 
purchasing and to his neighbors as to measurement of 
the land. To ease his mind and fortify his assertion 
we will try to tell a bigger story than he dare tell, 
and turn the doubting ones away from his track. 
Joseph Meeker, of Puyallup, raised over four thousand 
pounds per acre; George Livesly, of Sumner, raised 
three thousand eight hundred and thirty-eight pounds 
per acre. If these gentlemen named desire to be 
protected, then we propose to throw ourselves into 
the breach and say that in the Puyallup yard, on the 
home place, we have had a yield of one box to five 
hills, where there were a thousand hills to the acre, 
and that the boxes averaged twenty-four pounds to 
the box, and that there were several acres of such. 


Now, if anyone here will tell a bigger story, then 
we will subside and write about something else; but 
until then, this must be set down as “The biggest story 
out.” 


And so when the hop yield in New York State was 
not more than 800 pounds per acre and in the English 


AGRICULTURE 185 


yards less than 600, small wonder a near panic came 
in the hop growing districts of the world. 


I can truly say that for twenty-two years I never 
raised a crop of hops that I lost money on, though 
many of my neighbors could not tell the same experience. 


One day we discovered the hop louse in our yards; 
letters and telegrams and samples poured into our 
office at Puyallup from many of our correspondents to 
whom we were sending our weekly hop circular. The 
mysterious aphis had come into every yard; where 
from, we could not even conjecture. We knew that the 
pest would cut down the yield, almost destroy the 
quality and, of course, increase the cost of production 
unless successfully combatted. After a five years’ 
struggle, the victory rested with the aphis that pro- 
duced the live young faster than we could destroy 
them; our grand quality was destroyed; our market 
ruined; our occupation gone and there was no other 
alternative than to haul down the flag and destroy 
the hop yards. 


Practically every variety of agriculture and horticul- 
ture developed in temperate zones has been successfully 
undertaken in the State of Washington by adaptation 
to its distinctively marked climatic divisions, with the 
result that the range of product is unsurpassed by 
any region of similar extent and equalled by few. 


West of the Cascades, as shown by the tables of 
statistics herein published, the region is one of abun- 
dant precipitation and mild temperatures because of 
the moisture laden sea breezes that are among the 
effects of the warm ocean currents. A large propor- 
tion of the humidity is condensed in the high altitude 
of the Cascades to form the eternal snows of the 
crests, from which glaciers feed the rushing streams on 
either slope. 

Beyond the Cascade Mountains in Central Wash- 
ington, in the area drained by the Columbia, the cli- 
mate is arid, with long summer days of bright sunshine. 
The soil varies from lava ash through a scale of rich 


186 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


clays and loams; is very fertile when irrigated, but 
without water supports nothing but sage brush and 
secant crops of grass, long accepted as the sign of a 
desert; but in latter days of demonstration rather as 
a witness of potential wealth through irrigation. 

There are large areas, however, exceptions to this 
general statement. Along the Eastern and Southeastern 
border of the State where wheat, and in fact, all other 
crops, are produced in large quantities without irrig- 
ation, as will be shown in the census report by counties. 
A curious phenomenon (I think that is the proper 
word to express it) exists where in certain districts, 
increased productivity of the higher levels prevails 
over that of the lower plain. True stories could be 
told of the marvelous yield of wheat on these high 
hills and steep hillsides, even up to a hundred bushels 
per acre—of ten thousand bushels to a quarter of a 
section (160 acres) and similar annual yields all with- 
out irrigation. In the river bottom lands in the Puget 
Sound region, it is the lower levels filled in by the 
silt issuing from the glaciers that produce the larger 
crop. The theory as to the richness of the higher 
level soils of the eastern section of the State, is that 
in the hills they have been built up by the winds as 
in the ages past, as with sand dunes, and the finer part- » 
icles now comprising the soil carried to the higher 
points; hence give up plant food more freely. What- 
ever the cause, the fact remains that such are the most 
fertile. 

Although almost a complete digression from the 
subject in hand yet I am tempted to print some pioneer 
“Stuff”, I wrote more than twenty years ago, illus- 
trating this point of feasibility of farming large areas 
of the non-irrigible lands in the so-called Walla Walla 
Valley, a part of the ‘Inland Empire’, to give a glimpse 
into pioneer life in the wheat growing district. 

“When in 1854 my father came to the Oregon 
country from across the plains, I met him not far from 
where the City of Walla Walla now stands. I had 
reached the coast two years before and had settled on 


AGRICULTURE 187 


Puget Sound, which was soon after included within 
the bounds of Washington, so I can truly say and have 
often said that I never went to Washington, but that 
Washington had come to me. 

Word had come that my father’s party was in 
distress and so I made that never to be forgotten trip 
through the Naches pass over the mountains on the back 
of a pony and on down the Yakima River to Wallula, 
where, securing a fresh horse near noon day, by hard 
riding, at nightfall I found the party; camped with 
them, and in due time, piloted them to the Sound; 
another trip long to be remembered by all, old and 
young, who took part in the struggle, all gone now to 
their haven of rest except myself. I shall never forget 
how enthusiastic my father expressed himself over 
the “Grand Country” over which they had just passed; 
—the Grand Round, Wild Horse Creek, and Walla 
Walla valleys with the grand scenic view of the rich 
foothills of the Blue Mountains, and the higher, more 
distant dark timber back ground, the ‘‘back bone” of 
this great range. I did not, at the time, enter into 
the spirit of his enthusiasm, having my mind set on 
the country ‘over by the sea” but I see now with 
what unerring instinct or, judgment, if you will, my 
father sized up the country through the vision of his 
matured mind, for he had reached the half century 
mark shortly after the trip was ended. 

The place where that meeting with my father and 
his party occurred could not be far from the historic 
spot where Whitman was butchered and where that 
dreadful massacre of November, 1847, occurred, when 
fourteen people were destroyed, fifty others suffered 
in captivity the indignities of Indian warfare until 
ransomed by the agents of the Hudson Bay Company. 
The horrors of that day was still fresh in the minds 
of the people. Although the war that followed was 
ended and apparent peace prevailed, yet the little 
party kept their guns within reach and a watchful eye 
to guard against surprises. As I so recently traversed 
this valley and noted its wonderful fertility and beauty, 


188 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


I cease. to wonder why the mission was established in 
the then lonely valley of Walla Walla; or why my 
father became so enthusiastic over what he saw and 
with an almost prophetic eye, apparently knew what 
the future would bring forth. 


Whitman had come into the valley eighteen years 
before the time of which I have written. While as a 
missionary he had not neglected the work of religious 
teaching, yet his efforts had been strenuously directed 
to the more important labor of developing the land- 
planting crops, building a mill and other work, neces- 
sary for the maintenance of his mission. He was an 
industrious, persistent man, and we are told so much 
so as to be called by some imperious; and being a 
physician and not a preacher, small wonder that he 
should turn his attention to the material interests of 
the Indians as well, or perhaps more, than their 
spiritual and thus run counter to their ways of ances- 
tral breeding that could not be changed in a generation 
and so, in a way lost their confidence and finally 
incurred their hostility. We have another like incident 
in the case of N. C. Meeker, who fell at his post in 
Colorado, a sacrifice to his zeal and mistaken efforts 
to change the habits of the Indians, as we might say 
in the twinkling of an eye, instead of following the 
only practicable course, as prescribed by nature’s 
laws, of evolution. But I am not to write of the mis- 
sion or of the mission work except where their labors 
are intimately connected with the “Trail”. At the time 
of which I have written, when I met my people so near 
the spot where the tragedy had occurred, not a living 
soul (except the Indians) were seen. The mission had 
vanished; the mill had been destroyed; the cabins 
burned; the fields overrun by the roving bands of 
horses, the fences gone—nothing left but the sad 
uncared-for graves of the dead at the foot of the littie 
hill nearby, where the monument now stands. 


AGRICULTURE 189 


The Oregon Trail of 1848 ran to and through the 
mission grounds, hence this spot is doubly sacred we 
might say, and in fact some of the victims of the out- 
break were of the homebuilders recently arrived from 
across the Plains. Of the immigration of 1843, the first 
wagon train to make the passage this far, it is safe 
to say, all came to the mission. History records that 
nearly a thousand men, women and children came that 
year—more than three times as many as all of the 
homebuilders that had come before—and, having 
opened their own wagon road for near six hundred 
miles, we feel these people are entitled to the honor 
of having the track they followed adopted as the 
“Old Oregon Trail,” “The Trail that led to Empire.” 
In later years, hundreds of thousands followed this 
Trail, though afterwards, numerous parallel trails were 
travelled and a great many so-called “Cut offs’ which 
in too many cases proved the undoing of those attempt- 
ing the newer and untried routes. The Trail of 18438 
came into the lower lands from off the Blue Mountains 
nearby where the town of Pendleton now stands, nearly 
eighty miles distant from the old Hudson Bay Post 
of Walla Walla (now Wallula), situated on the Col- 
umbia River north easterly from Pendleton; and all 
of that immigration wended their way to that point, 
with their wagons and stock. Between these two points 
the Whitman mission was passed within four miles 
of the city limits of Walla Walla. Here the first 
substantial help came to the weary immigrants and 
again more substantial aid at the fort. Here, a part 
of the people constructed boats and floated down the 
Columbia River, but most of them turned sharply to 
the southwest and followed the left bank of the Col- 
umbia almost all the way to The Dalles, through the 
shifting sands of the narrow Columbia bottom and over 
the rough and rounded boulders so thickly strewn in 
places as to almost make progress impossible. On all 
this stretch, no visible marks of the Trail is to be 
found except near the John Day River where the 
precipitous bluff facing the Columbia compelled the 


190 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


immigrants to leave the bottoms and climb the hills 
which as Fremont says, “Well deserve the name of 
mountains’, and he knew for he was there at the 
time the struggle was going on. That drive down the 
Columbia must have been one of the most disheartening 
experiences of the whole trip and but for the hope that 
the end was near, the obstacles, would have been over- 
whelming. As before written, no traces of the Trail 
are visible all along the Columbia, but we know there 
was where they came. The shifting sand dunes have 
arisen in many places, only to be swept away with the 
change of the fickle winds that at times rush up the 
Columbia gap, to again form in another place and 
assume another shape, making the outlook drear, as 
though indeed it was a “God forsaken” country with 
no hope for the habitation of man. And yet I am 
credibly informed that these same shifting sands a 
little farther up the river with precisely the same con- 
ditions as here described, have been brought under 
control, rich crops harvested and high acreage values 
obtained, simply by the touch of water, either for 
alfalfa or fruit. It is simply amazing to see what won- 
derful changes water has brought on the apparently 
sterile desert lands. 


I remember having had some keen experience with 
these shifting sands, when in 1854 I wrapped myself in 
my saddle blanket and lay down for the night just 
opposite the old Fort (Walla Walla, now Wallula) 
while waiting an opportunity to cross the river. I 
came near being buried alive as I lay in deep slumber 
after a hard day’s ride in the hot sun of a September 
day. At this place, the old Oregon Trail on the left 
bank of the Columbia was abandoned and a new route 
across the river opened to the Puget Sound country 
up the Yakima Valley to a point a little way north of 
the present city of Yakima and thence through the 
Naches pass over the Cascade Mountains. I had 
come, as before noted, to meet my father’s party known 
to be on the Plains. I had spent six anxious days 
in the saddle or afoot in the search with no tidings 


AGRICULTURE 191 


when at nightfall the bank of the river had been 
reached, a barrier to further progress I could not alone 
overcome. I think there are well authenticated instances 
where man and horse swam the Columbia. I knew 
that it was impossible for me or my pony to accom- 
plish a crossing alone. I had tried hard during the 
day to get the Indians to cross me six miles above 
but found them sullen and offensively arrogant and 
met with a flat refusal. This however, was a year 
before the systematic murder of all whites found in 
the country east of the Cascade Mountains. The first 
pioneer train (1853) had gathered enough drift wood 
together out of which to whip saw lumber sufficient 
to build a boat and crossed their wagons over the mighty 
river. For three years this Northern branch of the 
Oregon Trail was kept open; and many wagons reached 
the Puget Sound country in that way—through the 
Naches Pass. 

In the Walla Walla district, much of the land will 
yield good crops without irrigation, as noted else- 
where; although a large area is under the ditches lead- 
ing the water out upon it. 

A quite recent experience of irrigation from artes- 
ian wells has raised high hopes for an abundant supply 
of water in otherwise unavailable sections, but as yet, 
these wells seem to have been confined to a restricted 
district of five, now sunk to the depth of 600 feet, in 
the City of Walla Walla. Each throws a heavy stream 
under a sixty pound pressure with a seeming unfailing, 
and one might say almost unlimited, supply of pure 
soft water. 

The valley of Walla Walla is not a valley in the 
common acceptance of the term; with a stretch of bot- 
tom land bounded on either side with high table land, 
but is a large scope of well watered country, aggre- 
gating some seventy townships, approximately a mil- 
lion and a quarter acres of arable land. The river 
is formed by tributaries rising in the Blue Mountains 
from the south and east which emerge from the foot 
hills into an undulating plain of table land interspersed 


192 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


with level bottoms in the aggregate of very large 
area and very fertile, all, or nearly all, both table 
and bottom alike profitable for general farming, or 
fruit and vegetable culture. 


When I made my second trip to London (I think it 
was the winter of 1885-86) while waiting for our hop 
shipments to arrive, I visited that quaint old town of 
Reading on one of their market days. After their 
dinner I talked to the assembled farmers and remem- 
ber, among other things, said that they could produce 
wheat in the Walla Walla country at the cost of a 
shilling (24 cents) a bushel; that the soil was easily 
plowed; the seasons for planting and harvesting long, 
and that the transportation charges to their market was 
low. An outcry of incredulity or amazement arose from 
all along down the whole length of the table, the gist 
of which was that such figures spelled ruin to the — 
English farmer. Questions were poured in on me so 
fast that I could not possibly answer all of them. Dr. 
Blalock, then as now, (since deceased), of Walla 
Walla, was my authority for the cost of production, 
having given me the figures in detail; the farmers of 
Reading knew the cost of freight and when afterwards 
the information was given that at the then prevailing 
price the Walla Walla farmers were making money, 
while the English farmers admittedly were losing, 
one may not wonder the figures given aroused general 
interest. For a long series of years the English wheat 
acreage declined and the land was seeded to pasture. 
The Doctor would not now say he could produce wheat 
at a shilling (24 cents) a bushel, neither would he 
have to accept 50 cents a bushel as he did then. With 
the vastly improved farm machinery and a more system- 
atic application of business principles, even with the 
much higher priced land and doubled wages of day 
laborers, wheat now can be produced at a cost of sixty 
cents a bushel. I have this latter figure as to cost 
of production from the lips of an extensive wheat 
grower of Walla Walla country, who be it said spoke 
from the standpoint of experience. 


193 


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SLON GNV SLINUA 





AYIVA NOLONIHSVM NUYACGOW V 





CHAPTER XXVI. 


DAIRIES AND CONDENSARIES 


Milking in Pioneer Days—Gradual Progress—Dairying Now Big 
Business—Washington Ideal State for Dairy Business— 
Climate and Vegetation Just Right—-Creameries and Con- 
densaries Now Numerous—Will Be Among Foremost States 
for Milk Production—The Milk Condensary—Founder of 
Process—Great Public Benefit—Method Still Followed— 
Great Expansion of Local Company—Figures Tell Tale. 


I cannot remember when milking cows was not a 
delight to me—fun, you might say, for if a hapless 
chum should happen to come too near he would be liable 
to get a squirt of milk in the eye, for I was a good 
shot in the game. 


I hardly ever left the milk house after the milk 
was strained until a cup full of the precious fluid 
had found its way into my stomach as a padding to the 
breakfast that followed. 


These were times when the old wide flaring shallow 
tin pans were in use exposing as wide a surface of the 
milk to the air as possible, later to be skimmed, the 
cream transferred to the dasher churn. 


I can well remember the back breaking work when 
the butter wouldn’t “come” and Mother wouldn’t let 
warm water be added, to “bring it.” 


These, too, were times when the butter was put 
up in rolls of all sorts, shapes and sizes to be sent to 
the store and traded for sugar or salt, or maybe a 
bit of calico or ribbon or anything that struck the 
fancy of the women of the household. 


204 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


Then came the deep cans of the Cooly creamer, 
excluding the air from the milk while the cream 
“rose”, followed by the separator to deposit the cream 
in one vessel and milk in another; and finally the 
“creamery” where method prevailed and the dairy 
became a great business in the place of a “pin money” 
adjunct. 


The dairy interest has reached great proportions 
in Washington where the grass remains green so long, 
and where the nights are always cool and where the 
water is so pure. 


The census report of 1920 states the value of milk, 
cream and butter fat and of butter and cheese made 
on farms for the year 1919 as $27,620,231. 


Receipt from sale of dairy products, $25,412,685. 
Total, $53,032,916. 


The State of Washington is peculiarly adapted for 
successful dairying and stock-raising. The climate, 
vegetation, facilities for transportation and marketing 
all combine tu make it one of the most favored states in 
the Union for the carrying on of such industries. 


The western portion of the State offers more advan- 
tages than the eastern for dairying, owing to the 
greater amount of precipitation which causes the pas- 
tures to remain green much longer than on _ the 
other side of the mountains, also because the climate 
is more equable. But in many parts of eastern Wash- 
ington, especially where irrigation is carried on and 
alfalfa raised in abundance, dairying is a most suc- 
cessful industry, and that section can boast of possess- 
ing some of the finest dairy herds in the State. 


Since pioneer days this industry has made most 
remarkable progress. In the quality of the cows, the 
manner of feeding and caring for them, the methods 
of milking and handling the milk, and the disposal of it; 
all have changed. Modern, scientific methods now pre- 


DAIRIES AND CONDENSARIES 205 


vail over the careless, slip-shod fashion of former days. 
Only in isolated instances and in out-of-the-way places 
do we now find butter making carried on by farmers. 
There are either creameries or condensaries, in almost 
every locality to which the milk is sold by the farmer 
and conveyed from his door-yard by wagons provided 
by the manufacturing plants so that the farmer’s duties, 
with regard to the milk, cease when he places it in the 
cans provided for the purpose. 


The dairying industry and the annual value of its 
products have been increasing by leaps and bounds, 
and it is not beyond the range of reasonable possibil- 
ities that before many years shall have elapsed she 
will be among the foremost states in this line. 


There are now 19 condensaries, 19 cheese factories 
and 110 creameries in the State. 


The scope of this volume will not permit of going 
into minute details of the rise and progress of the milk 
products industry. But there is one branch that owing 
to a peculiar coincidence, as well as to the great 
importance of the thing itself, compels us to devote 
a little extra space to giving a brief outline of its 
birth and growth. I refer to the milk condensary. 


It is always a pleasure to pay tribute to any man 
who by his inventive genius, or other exercise of unusual 
powers has proved himself a benefactor of the human 
race, even though his motives may have been other 
than altruistic. 


In 1853, the year that this extreme northwestern 
portion of the United States was cut loose from “Old 
Oregon” and made a territory, the American, Gail 
Borden, applied for a patent on a process that he 
worked out for condensing milk. His right to be 
called the inventor of the manufacture of condensed 
milk has never been questioned, although his patent 
was not granted until 1856. It was for producing 
concentrated sweet milk by evaporation, having no 


206 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


sugar or other foreign matter mixed with it. However, 
as early as 1856, it is known that Gail Borden manufac- 
tured sweetened condensed milk, sold under the famous 
“Eagle Brand” label. And by the way, who does 
not know what a great blessing that Eagle Brand of 
milk has been in nourishing infants whose mothers were 
unable to furnish the natural article? Physicians have 
asserted time and again that its use has resulted in 
saving the lives of thousands and thousands of little 
ones in the last sixty years. 


Since the introduction of the process of milk con- 
densing, invented and patented by Borden, numerous 
modifications of the processes, have been invented in 
this country and abroad. Most of these have proved 
commercially unprofitable and Borden’s method still 
prevails almost everywhere. 


The beginning of this infant industry—not unlike 
the Territory given birth at about the same date— 
was modest in the extreme. It took years to overcome 
the obstacles that usually beset a new enterprise; but 
about the close of the Civil War it began to get a 
firm foothold and ever since it has grown rapidly. 
Today it has upwards of fifty factories from Maine 
to this State, and is very strong financially. 


At the present time the Pacific Coast Condensed 
Milk Company—a Western institution—is the largest 
of the kind in this State and has made wonderful 
progress since it first came into existence less than 
twenty years ago. 


The total value of condensed milk manufactured in 
this State in 1915, was $5,618,050; in 1919, was 
$15,044,708. That looks like progress! 


The total value of all dairy products in the State 
for 1915, was $19,735,694; for 1919, $39,936,441. Again, 
that looks like, and is, Progress. 


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HdIdNad AUNWINI AHL AO SCUYVHOUO 





CHAPTER XXVII. 


HORTICULTURE 


Fruit Raising Great Industry—Apple Leads All Others—Oldest 
Apple Tree In State—Immense Cherry Trees—Four Feet 
In Diameter—The Apple Tree Cultivated In Ancient Times 
—Phenomenal Increase of Crop in State—Washington Apples 
At New Orleans Exposition—Best Display—Bright Outlook 
For Future—Pears Raised In Great Abundance—Thrive On 
Hither Side of Cascade Range—Excellent Peaches Produced 
On East Side—Industry Advancing Rapidly—Small Fruit 
Business Very Profitable—Recent Development Great—Con- 
siderable Grapes Raised On East Side. 


The fruit business of the State has grown to be a 
great industry. The apple, of course, leads all other 
varieties and, in fact, is of greater value than all others 
combined. 


The oldest apple tree in the State has just passed 
the venerable age of ninety-six years and is yet in 
bearing. This is a seedling springing from seed planted 
at Vancouver, Washington, by the Hudson’s Bay Com- 
pany in 1825. I have seen another at the age of 
seventy years planted at Fort Nisqually in 1834 by the 
same company; both from seed sent from England by 
sailing ships around Cape Horn. 


The apple tree in this climate comes into bearing 
very early. I have had a considerable crop three years 
from planting—all the growth could bear up under, 
and in fact more. I am opposed to propping a tree 
and prefer to “thin out’? and spare the tree. Some of 
my planting of thirty years ago are yet bearing. My 
first planting in Puyallup nearly sixty years ago gave 
way to make room for Pioneer Park in the City of - 
Puyallup, else I have no doubt would still be bearing. | 


208 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


George H. Himes, Secretary of the Oregon His- 
torical Society, has just sent me a “piece of wood from 
the last cherry tree that belonged to his (Luelling) 
original stock of 1847,” which he has labeled ‘Royal 
Ann Cherry Wood.” 


These were the first grafted fruit trees West of the 
Rocky mountains and the beginning of the fruit in- 
dustry of the Pacific Coast. I have seen cherry trees 
on the Indian reservations I think at least four feet in 
diameter. These facts demonstrate that in this cli- 
mate fruit trees bear early, grow rapidly and have a 
long lease of life. 


The apple is “one of the most widely cultivated 
and best known and appreciated of fruits belonging to 
temperate climates,” and “is successfully cultivated in 
higher latitudes than any other fruit tree, growing up 
to 65 degrees N. latitude, and is generally distributed 
throughout the three continents of Europe, Asia and 
America. It has been cultivated from time immemor- 
ial. Charred remains of the fruit are found in the 
prehistoric lake dwellings of Switzerland” (see illus- 
trations Standard Encyclopedia of Horticulture, Volume 
1, page 312). Now widely cultivated and immensely 
variable, the apple is grown in every temperate climate 
and is probably the most important commercial fruit 
of any variety. 


While writing of the apple, my mind harks back 
seventy years ago to “Old Indiana Days” of the apple 
parings; the quartering and stringing of the apples 
to hang up to dry; to the apple butter, the tart, the 
apple pudding, and not forgetting the apple pie, and 
above all the bright-eyed, rosy cheeked girls—veritable 
sprites in the eyes of a lusty youngster of twenty; 
sprites that played on the loom instead of the piano, 
made music on the spinning wheel as well as on the 
guitar and cooked as palatable a meal as could be 
obtained at Delmonico’s. But I must have done with 
this and get back to Washington State and down to 
something of our present day doings. 


HORTICULTURE 209 


In a bulletin of the 1920 U. S. Census report just 
received, under the heading of “Farms and Farm Prop- 
erty for Washington, Table 39, we find a summary of 
the apple crop valued for 1909 and 1919: “Year 1909, 
2,672,100 bushels, value $2,925,716; 1919, 21,568,619 
bushels, value $38,823,641.” 


Thus it will be seen during the decade from 1909 to 
1919 the value of the apple crop of 1919 is approxi- 
mately ten times the value of 1909 and three-fourths 
the value of all the fruit crops of the State. 


As before indicated, there is something in the air, 
the climate, or the soil, or all three, of Washington to 
produce the apple to perfection. I have long felt this 
“in my bones” as the saying goes, but I did not expect 
to live to see the industry reach so great a world wide 
importance as has come within the last decade. 


Thirty-five years ago (1885) Governor Squire ap- 
pointed me as commissioner to the second New Or- 
leans Exposition and in his letter proffering the 
appointment said there were no funds to sustain the 
work, but he would recommend an appropriation when 
the legislature met, which would be after the exposi- 
tion opened. 


I accepted the appointment, issued circular letters 
to the effect that I would contribute my time and per- 
sonal expenses, but would not pay or promise to pay 
one cent for exhibits; but would receive, transport 
and install such as would be contributed and gave a 
schedule of what was wanted. 


There was instant and universal response, and 
figuratively speaking, we were soon “covered up” with 
exhibits. Among these were a large quantity of fruit, 
particularly apples, I think over forty varieties. 


Now for the sequel. The exposition management 
offered diplomas for the best plate of fruit of any 
varieties exhibited. Fifty-five awards were made, of 


210 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


which Washington took thirteen first and two second 
class. Nine States had exhibited. All agreed the 
awards were fair; that Washington had the best display 
of apples in the exposition and was entitled to the 
diplomas. I then and there in broad daylight had a 
dream. I dreamed some day Washington would come 
to the front as a fruit producing State whenever we 
could get transportation to reach distant markets. 
The dream has come true; it is, however, only par- 
tially fulfilled; the census report shows we produced 
nearly fifty million dollars worth in 1919, to be exact, 
$47,837,647 as against $4,244,670 in 1909. 


Now that we have great steamer lines from Puget 
Sound, recently established, to Europe and the Atlantic 
seaboard through the Panama Canal, and soon will have 
free tolls, which means cheaper freight to our eastern 
coast and Europe. I will dream that if I live that long, 
at the end of another decade, I will see a hundred mil- 
lion dollars worth of fruit shipped out of Washington 
in the year 1929. 


Every cloud with its silver lining must have a dark 
ground. European nations have been killing off men 
faster than children are born; the art of printing has 
reached a period of perfection; paper money is manu- 
factured day and night. Until Europe recovers from 
her madness, we may not reasonably expect a speedy 
recovery and consequent normal trade; but it will 
come in time, to insure a bright future for the fruitage 
of Washington. 


PEARS 


There are varieties of pears that I would choose to 
satisfy my craving for fruit before any other kind; 
but this does not continue as with the apple. Never- 
theless, we seek a variety, and pears are one link in 
the chain of fruit luxury, I should say necessity, for 
if we want continued good health, we must have fruit 
as a part of our diet. 


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HORTICULTURE 211 


Did you, dear reader, ever notice the class that 
lived on what we used to describe as ‘“Hog and Hominy” 
diet—that had a certain sluggish movement—a little 
dullness in the eye and maybe in the whole head—fat 
and good natured, but not famed for intellectual 
achievements. I have seen some such. 


We feed our pigs corn because we want to fatten 
them; but we don’t want to raise our children on the 
same exclusive diet. We want our youngsters to have 
that which will brighten the brain; keep the whole 
system in good working order and develop the normal 
man or woman intellectually as well as physically. 


I firmly believe that the universal fruit eating habit 
of our people in Washington has largely contributed to 
place the State on the enviable pedestal of health re- 
ports as shown by the statistics. 


I did not wait to dig out the stumps before planting 
my first orchard and one-fourth of it was pear trees; 
that was sixty or more years ago. In two years we 
had a “sprinkling” of fruit; the third year all we 
needed and the fourth year abundance and a lot to 
spare. I verily believe the regular eating of fruit 
has prolonged my life (now past ninety) and kept 
mental clouds off my mind. 


The remarkable record develops the fact that not 
a single county of the State (thirty-nine in all) fails 
to show pear culture; large local consumption, how- 
ever, very materially reduces the shipments to distant 
markets, and hence, a less aggregate value shown in 
the tables of statistics. This fruit thrives on both 
sides of the Cascade Mountains. 


There is not a county in this State without its fruit 
orchards and plenty of fruit for the youngsters and in 
the aggregate, as shown on another page, near fifty 
million dollars worth to spare the last year, reported 
(1919). 


212 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


The U. S. Census for 1909 reports the production 
of pears in Washington at 310,804 bushels, of a value of 
$328,895, and for 1919 1,728,759 bushels, at a value of 
$3,025,331. 


The trend of pear culture, as with many other var- 
ieties of fruit, is toward the Pacific Coast States. Wash- 
ington is keeping up with the procession, as will be 
seen by the preceding figures, showing the crop output 
has more than quadrupled in a decade with 183,346 
trees reported as of non-bearing age. 


The total value of the fruit crop of the State, in- 
cluding almonds and English walnuts, is given by the 
census report as $4,274,124 for the year 1909, and 
for 1919 $47,827,647. The three leading fruits, apples, 
pears and peaches, in 1919 produced the sum of $45,- 
170,521, the remainder by plums, prunes, cherries, 
apricots, figs, grapes and nuts as noted. 


THE PEACH 


Next to pears in quantity produced, the peach is a 
close second, but exceeds the pear in aggregate value 
of the totals of the two. 


The exact figures given us by the census report is, 
for the State 84,494 bushels in 1909 and 1,544,859 in 
1919. The values for these respective years is for the 
crop of 1909, $1,925,761, which is increased to $3,321,- 
449 for 1919. 


The output of each most important fruit is shown 
by tables of the counties of the State. The careful 
reader will note that while but one county fails to re- 
port any peaches grown, many show a nominal out- 
put, the bulk of the crop is grown in the four counties 
of Yakima, Chelan, Spokane and Walla Walla, all east 
of the Cascade Mountains, commonly known as the 
Inland Empire. 





NOLONTHSVM HO GTHIWACdHA V 





HORTICULTURE 213 


The quality of the peaches of Washington competes 
favorably in the markets with those from other States 
and doubtless the quantity will be largely increased in 
the immediate future by the 50,254 non-bearing age 
trees reported. 


SMALL FRUITS 


E. C. Mead in 1885 sent east for a few blackberry 
roots of an improved variety and planted them on his 
farm near Sumner in the Puyallup Valley. He soon 
began to market the product locally and later at nearby 
cities of the State. This was the foundation of a busi- 
ness that has assumed large proportions. The variety 
became locally known as the “Mead Blackberry” and 
later as the “Snyder.” 


I had, at the time, a blackberry vine without name 
—probably the evergreen, growing in my garden with 
a stalk as big as a ten year old child’s wrist, that 
measured exactly two rods in length. I managed to 
take this with me and exhibit it at the New Orleans 
Exposition, mentioned elsewhere in this volume. The 
quick growth and enormous yield soon demonstrated 
the possibilities of this combination of soil and cli- 
mate to produce small fruit on a large commercial 
scale culminating, in the last government report re- 
ceived, in the “farm value” of $3,490,388 during the 
year of 1919, and which was largely increased in 1920. 
The canneries, of course, report a much larger value, 
including cost of cans or other containers, labor, sugar, 
transportation, etc., probably in all double the farm 
value. 


The census report for 1919 shows the production 
of small fruit in the State is as follows: 


BEI CUTICS Mert iss. eas sn ee 6,377,368 quarts 
MERE TTGR ptr OR Vik aed och ke sk 4,599,678 quarts 
Blackberries and Dewberries .............. 3,691,065 quarts 
foi Tobe ee Pete UR rR ed ae 1,157,778 quarts 


LULA GLEBE) Rs Ue NE Se El ROE RL 16,884,745 quarts 


214 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


The rich alluvial deposit of the numerous river bot- 
toms described in the photographic copy of ‘Western 
Washington,” reprinted in this volume, shows a large 
aggregate acreage of this land, all, or nearly all, suited 
for small fruit culture, besides a larger acreage in the 
aggregate of the logged off lands; though much of 
this is not suited for such crops. 


There have been marvelous results in recent years 
and the industry, growing apace, has become one of 
the great staple crops of the State. 


A little bit of pioneer reminiscences of a third of 
a century ago may not be uninteresting to strangers 
and would-be berry growers, now embarking in small 
fruit culture as a commercial venture. 


October 9, 1887, I published in the Post Intelligencer 
of that date, under the heading of “Farm and Home,” 
a letter from T. F. Patton, from Alderton, Puyallup 
Valley, in which he wrote: 


“T set out my first blackberry yard in the year 
1876, and have had very good success until this year. 
From some cause that I don’t understand, my yard 
appears to have a blight that seems to make its ap- 
pearance first on the top of the bushes, and extends 
downwards until the whole bush dies, even after the 
fruit has formed. The consequence is I have only about 
one-third of the usual yield. 


“IT will give my success for last year; I had near 
two acres in berries. I sold enough berries to buy 600 
pounds of granulated sugar and made two hundred gal- 
lons of wine, besides having enough for ourselves and 
supplied several neighbors. The wine was sold for 
$1.25 per gallon, by the barrel. I think enough was 
sold to neighbors to pay all the expense of picking, so 
the profit would appear to be $125.00 per acre net. 
The wine gives very good satisfaction, and is pro- 
nounced by good judges as splendid. I have made 
180 gallons this year, notwithstanding the blight.” 








THE PEACH 


HORTICULTURE 215 


Of course, my good friend has gone where wine 
making is not practiced. Neither if he were yet here 
could he make wine from his berries, but he could 
doubtless get more money from his crop, to be made 
into jam, or shipped thousands of miles in their fresh 
state, which at that date he could not do. 


I wrote and published in the same issue that “We 
have repeatedly made the assertion that blackberries 
could be produced pound for pound, nearly as cheap 
as potatoes. The blight mentioned by Mr. Patton is 
new. In all our experiences of over thirty years, we 
have never had a failure. They used to grow so vig- 
orously on the home farm (Puyallup) that two rows 
supplied us with all we could eat and more, too, with 
upright stocks of such vigorous growth that in one 
case there was a lateral nineteen feet. A single hill in 
the same row produced 21 pounds of berries at one 
picking. What we want is more small fruit—enough 
to make a cannery possible.” 


GRAPES 


In the eastern division of the State, grapes of ex- 
cellent quality are produced and marketed. The pro- 
duction during the decade ending in 1919 has increased 
from 1,704,025 lbs. in the year 1909 to 3,961,036 in 
1919 with an increase of aggregate value during the 
respective years from $51,412 in 1909 to $316,882 in 
1919, thus showing the culture to have been profitable 
and will doubtless be largely increased as the country 
is settled and developed. 


CHAPTER XXVIII. 


BEET SUGAR 


Inception of Industry Last Century—Beet Sugar Not Inferior 
to Cane—Large Area of State Suitable for Sugar Beet 
Culture—More Beet Sugar Used Than Cane—Process of 
Manufacture Described—Expansion of Industry Assured— 
Inland Empire to be Beneficiary—Irrigation Will Accom- 
plish the Grand Result. 


In old Indiana days we young folks used to have 
gay times at the sugar camps, sometimes dancing on 
Mother Earth till the wee hours of the morning while 
the pot boiled and boiled till the sugaring-off time came. 


Here in Washington we have not had the sugar 
camp for the reason that we have no sugar maple 
from which to draw the sweet sap. 


A little over a hundred years ago, Napoleon, as a 
war measure, encouraged French chemists to discover 
the way to produce sugar from the beet by giving 
large subsidies and from these efforts the problem was 
solved by demonstrating the practicability of drawing 
sugar from the soil through the medium of the beet 
as well as the cane and maple tree. Finally it has 
come about that over half of the sugar of the world 
is produced from the beet. 


A wide popular opinion prevails that beet sugar 
is inferior; that its sweetening quality is less than 
cane; that an offensive flavor remained with the sugar 
in spite of all efforts to remove it. Chemists have 
demonstrated time and again that beet sugar is ident- 
ical with cane sugar. By improved processes of manu- 
facture all impurities are now removed and not the 
faintest trace of an offensive odor remains. Scranton’s 


BEET SUGAR 217 


International Library says, “The term sugar at present, 
in a general sense, is reserved almost exclusively to 
denote crystalized sugar from the tropical plants and 
the sugar, whether derived from the tropical cane or 
the sugar beet, is almost pure sucrose.” 


Washington State possesses suitable soil and climate 
for the production of the beet in quantity sufficient 
to supply the United States with all the sugar required 
by the hundred million of people in the nation. 


A quarter of a century ago the author investigated 
the question as to the feasibility of establishing this 
industry here in Washington by visiting several sugar 
factories in Germany and the then recent factory in 
Alvarado, California. We found that the beet grown 
on soil west of the Cascade Mountains was singularly 
rich and pure, but for climatic reason endangering a 
second growth, destroying its sugar producing quality 
before the crop could be harvested, it was not feasible 
to produce sugar from the beet on a large scale in 
the warm moist autumns of Western Washington. Beets 
grown in the eastern portion of the State were proven 
even richer in sugar, but not so pure. Subsequent to 
that date (1885) improvements in the process of 
manufacture has enabled the manufacturer to cheaply 
remove this impurity and to demonstrate beyond all 
question that sugar can be produced in the region 
we know as “The Inland Empire’, Eastern Washington, 
to compete with any district in the nation. This is 
abundantly proved by the successful operation of sev- 
eral large factories in the region referred to. 


During the year of 1918-1919 the production of 
refined beet sugar in the United States as reported in 
the year book of the United States Department of 
agriculture for 1918 was, for the continental division 
740,100 short tons (of 2,000 Ibs.). Louisiana produced 
during the same period 263,450 short tons, “chiefly 


218 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


raw’, and in all other states 3,500 tons, a total of 
266,950 tons of sugar from the cane as against 740,100 
tons from the beet. 


It is interesting to note the rise and progress of 
this great industry beginning seventy years ago with 
a production in the United States of 448 tons of beet 
sugar and ending at the period just named in a gain 
of annual production of nearly seven hundred thousand 
tons the greater and constantly increasing gain begin- 
ning with the present century. 


The memories of the old time sugar camp remain 
as “a joy forever’, in the mind of the author who 
wields his pen at the age of ninety, when, after the 
hard day’s work of gathering the sap, the night work 
came on with its gaiety of the assembled youngsters. 
The sap would run when the weather was favorable and 
wouldn’t wait and so the day gathering must be got 
out of the way before the next day’s supply came. 


Of course there was a great deal more than mere 
fun for the youngsters in the production of maple 
sugar. Sugar was scarce and high priced; all except 
that produced from the maple tree was shipped up the 
Mississippi and hauled in wagons from the Ohio River 
to Indianapolis near where the author then lived. I 
can remember when in extreme cases a bushel of corn 
would be exchanged for a pound of sugar—corn 15 
cents a bushel, sugar 18 cents a pound, when measured 
by money, but the scarcity and high price of money 
drove many to barter and trade. These were times 
when farm hands worked for from eight to twelve 
dollars a month and fifty cents a day was considered 
fair wages. 


Three years ago, during the great war, I planted 
a few rows of sugar beets in my Liberty garden and 
made some syrup over the kitchen fire, from the product 
following the directions given in a bulletin, issued by 
the U. S. Agricultural Department of Washington, No. 


BEET SUGAR 219 


823, giving in detail how to proceed, from the raising 
of the beet to the deposit of the syrup in suitable 
vessels for safe-keeping. 


Any one can get one of these bulletins free by apply- 
ing to the department or examine one at their local 
library. 


The process is simple: Slice the beets thin, soak 
for an hour in hot water, boil down to the consistency 
wanted and place the product under seal till used; be 
sure and skim carefully while boiling; by boiling long 
enough one can get sugar of dark color. A rod of 
ground will easily yield three bushels of beets; a bushel 
of beets will produce in syrup the equivalent of eight 
pounds of sugar. I have raised beets that yielded 
twice the amount stated above and have had beets at 
least 20 per cent richer, hence a statement that one 
can rely on producing the equivalent of 25 pounds of 
sugar to the square rod, 4,000 to the acre, is not an 
exaggeration. 


There are several million acres of land in the State 
suitable to the production of the sugar beet when water 
is supplied to irrigate. 


By reading the chapter on water power in this 
volume, where the possibilities of supplying water is 
outlined, the reader will not need to draw on his 
imagination for visions of the future, for the history 
of what has been accomplished is a safe guide to 
judge the future. 


With an aggregated potential water power, greater 
than any other state of the nation, to make possible 
the irrigation of the higher levels by pumping; with 
the millions of acres of suitable soil, coupled with a 
favorable climate, the future expansion of this industry 
is assured and with it the great future of the Inland 
Empire of Washington, once referred to as a part 
of the “Great American Desert” by uninformed states- 
men of the past. 


CHAPTER XXIX. 


LOGGED-OFF LANDS 


Mostly In Western Part Of State—Character Dissimilar—Some 
Excellent—Some Worthless—Big Trees Don’t Indicate Rich 
Soiul—Improved Methods of Clearing Land Now Being Em- 
ployed—Numerous Settlers Now Upon Such Lands—Years 
Of Personal Experience With Logged-Off Lands—Large Por- 
tions Can Be Profitably Cultivated. 


That part of the State lying West of the Cascade 
Range of mountains is a timbered region, of varied 
soils, graduating from the very richest to be found 
anywhere on the earth’s surface to the poorest imagin- 
able—some of it not even fit for “Goose Pasture,” as 
the Western phrase goes, meaning of no value for 
agriculture. 


As will be seen in the chapter on lumber, this 
region jointly with Western Oregon and British Colum- 
bia, is the timber storehouse of the world, and of the 
cone bearing evergreen species, hence the name ‘“Ever- 
green” State as now so widely applied to Washington. 


A popular fallacy has pervaded the minds of many 
that where such tremendous growth of timber is pro- 
duced, the soil of necessity must be rich. Such is 
not the case, although there are areas of rich soils 
where the evergreen timber grows, but is not pro- 
duced from the soil. The fir, or in fact, any of the 
evergreen cone-bearing timber when burned leaves but 
a small percentage of ash. The growth is not from 
the soil, but is from the surrounding atmosphere and 
moisture. The evergreen casts no leaf in autumn like 
the deciduous growth that annually returns a part of 
its nourishment drawn from Mother Earth. 


LOGGED-OFF LANDS 221 


Widely distributed and in the aggregate of large 
areas through this region are river bottom alluvial de- 
posits and marginal tide lands adjacent to Puget 
Sound and Grays Harbor of great value for agricul- 
ture; but it is of the logged-off lands, the hill lands 
to be considered in this chapter. 


In the early settlement of the territory sixty or 
more years ago, and I may say later, in this State, these 
lands were shunned and looked upon as worthless for 
agricultural purposes—appalled by the herculean task 
of clearing ready for the plow by individual effort. 


Latterly by the use of powder to shatter the stumps 
and the application of steam power, with cables to 
draw to a selected center and derricks to lift the broken 
pieces and swing to points where cone piles have ac- 
cumulated up twenty feet high or more, the task has 
not seemed so discouraging; in a word, by machinery, 
the land may be profitably cleared where by the indi- 
vidual effort it could not be done. 


Notwithstanding the handicap in cost of clearing 
we find a large population settled upon these lands— 
upon the more favored portion—but the greater portion 
is left as the logging crew had abandoned it, appar- 
ently to be treated as waste land. 


Having had over forty years’ experience as a 
farmer within the borders of this territory and state, 
in close proximity to these lands described, and having 
had my “fingers burned” in an attempt to clear some 
of it with a keen experience of loss, I may be pard- 
oned in saying that I am writing from the book of 
experience that taught me caution. Nevertheless, I 
sincerely believe, and may I not say know, there is a 
great future value in a part of these lands if system- 
atically selected and improved in accordance to what 
they are best fitted for. 


It required thirty years of persistent agitation accom- 
panied by object lessons of individual effort to con- 


222 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


vince the people that the nation would be benefitted by 
the irrigation of our arid lands and that it could best 
be done in a large way by the Government, either by 
the state or nation and in a way that would cost the 
Government in the long run not a dollar—simply using 
its eredit. This at least is being done to an extent 
under the Cary Act, which we know is the forerunner 
of greater projects. 


The amazing results of this irrigation work has 
convinced the most incredulous of the wisdom of this 
movement of reclamation really begun in earnest less 
than twenty years ago. Here was a vast area of land 
almost worthless as it lay, but by the touch of water 
becomes the most productive soil of any on the con- 
tinent—where once the desert, drear and parched, pre- 
vailed, now smiling farms, gardens, and orchards, be- 
yond all dreams of the enthusiast, occupy the land, 
yielding thousands upon thousands of carloads of prod- 
uct of an aggregate value of $250,000,000, the partic- 
ulars of which may be seen elsewhere in this volume. 


What is true as to the result of irrigation of our 
arid lands in the eastern portion of the State may be- 
come true by application of the same principle applied 
to the logged-off lands of Western Washington in a 
region extending near two hundred and forty miles 
from the south to the north boundary of the State 
and of near a hundred miles in width. After deducting 
the water area of Puget Sound and river valley with 
here and there prairies, the timber area that will come 
under the description of logged-off lands is nearly, if 
not quite, as large as the arid area of the Inland Empire 
of Eastern Washington previously described. 


Thus it will be seen that there is a vast work before 
the generation to come. It is a work that ought to 
be undertaken by the Government, not in the spirit of 
paternalism but because it can be done by the govern- 
ment in a way for the greatest good to the greatest 
number, impossible to accomplish by individual effort. 


LOGGED-OFF LANDS 223 


First there should be a careful survey of a given 
area to determine what land should be cleared and 
what should be reforested; second, clear only such 
as is fitted for agriculture; third, clear only such land 
where the title is transferred to the Government at a 
valuation to be agreed upon; or by condemnation of 
unoccupied tracts by valuation. 


Fourth, after the land is cleared ready for the 
plow, to be sold in suitable tracts to home builders only, 
who must reside on the tract, at a price to cover the 
cost of the clearing and added appraised value before 
clearing, on long time payments and low interest. 


Fifth, reforest such portions as are unsuited for 
agriculture. If the reader will refer to other chapters 
in this volume where the rapid growth of timber in 
this moist mild climate is shown, he may well conclude 
with the author that with a proper system of refores- 
tration, the supply of timber may be continued for the 
use of countless generations to enjoy without limit of 
time. 


This last is most important, as it can not be done 
otherwise than by Government action. The continued 
welfare of the nation, of future generations, is depend- 
ent upon such action. The time is not far distant 
when, with the present wasteful system, or rather lack 
of system, our timber resources will be exhausted and 
the nations of the world will suffer with us; for it 
can be truly said this, is the timber storehouse of the 
world. Sixty-eight years is a long time in the life of 
one man but is a short time in the life of a nation. 
I have lived here these sixty-eight years within 
the borders of this territory and state and have 
seen wonderful results in limited areas of nature’s 
efforts to repair the damages inflicted by the hand 
of man. In that period I have seen stately trees grown 
from tiny saplings to three or more feet in diameter 
and one hundred and fifty feet or more in height, a 
thing of beauty and of value. Thirty-two years ago I 


224 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


planted on my grounds at Puyallup a “Sequoia Wash- 
ingtoniana”’ (popularly known as the “big tree of Cali- 
fornia”) a sprig not bigger than my thumb. Recently I 
put a tape line around the base of it to find the tiny 
sprig had grown to be fifteen and a half feet in cir- 
cumference and still growing lustily. The curious may 
see this tree growing within the bounds of the thriving 
city of Puyallup. 


I once tramped from Maidstone, England, to Tun- 
bridge Well, and there first saw the beautiful holly 
that in places lined the roadside. I thought it was the 
most beautiful sight I had ever seen, and upon my 
return home straightway planted holly. I remember 
particularly one of these in fifteen years had reached 
the height of thirty feet with a dense foliage from the 
ground up, the horizontal limbs extending fifteen feet, 
the top a single tip, thus forming a perfect pyramid 
as beautiful as anything I saw in England. And why 
not? The climate of Western Washington is much 
the same as that of England—an ideal climate for the 
growth of timber nearly the whole year round, and 
the holly tree grows here in as great perfection as 
any I saw in England. 


eit 


CHAPTER XXX. 


IRRIGATION 


Beginning of Irrigation in State—Wonderful Progress Made— 
The Face of Nature Changed as by Magician’s Wand— 
Essential to Assure Good Crops in Eastern Portion of 
State—Coming Into More General Use in Western—Future 
Results Will be Marvelous—Table of Crop Returns. 


No region of the world, according to men who have 
made a life-time study of agriculture and horticulture, 
has a wider spread of production from its soil than has 
the state of Washington. In some measure this is due 
to climatic and meteorological conditions, with the lofty 
Cascade range dividing the state into two sections, dis- 
tinct in considerations of temperature and precipitation. 
As a geographical division it is a happy one through the 
variety of resources and industries to which it con- 
tributes, and in realizing the possibilities along such 
lines there is call for a co-operation and common spirit 
of progress that will permit no political or civic division 
to parallel the topographic demarkations effected by 
the mountain crests. 


Due to the climatic range thus indicated, agricul- 
ture in the state has a wide scope, from the imperial 
wheat fields of the Inland Empire in the eastern section 
and the great grazing grounds of cattle and sheep, to 
the intensive culture of small fruits on the western 
slope, with truck gardening and dairy industries tribu- 
tary to the large city markets and the industrial plants 
that have installed processes of condensing the milk and 
preserving the fruits on a colossal scale. Between the 
extremes of the grain ranch that covers sections, and 
the berry or truck tract that may be limited to an acre 


226 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


there lie tracts where fortunes await in apples, peaches, 
plums and pears, where alfalfa and clover and timothy 
thrive as basis of stock feeding, where money is made 
from poultry and bees as side-lines or as independent 
undertakings, where culture of every kind of vegetable 
is successful; or where variety is realized in its possi- 
bilities by combination of root crops, grain and forage 
with poultry flocks and dairy herds, and fruit trees 
for what has been called “three-story” farming. 


In the records of what has been accomplished by 
Washington agriculturists, one of the greatest chapters, 
probably the one of most compelling interest, has to 
do with the magic of water. 


For centuries, during the Dark Ages when shad- 
owed men in cloisters were keeping alive the spark of 
learning that was a heritage from the classic era, 
there was unremitting quest of the “philosopher’s 
stone”, the mysterious element by which it was thought 
the baser commodities might be turned into gold. The 
purpose was foiled, however much the toil may have 
found reward in the beginnings of chemistry. Yet 
for ages, in the greater laboratory of out doors, Nature 
had been fulfilling the conditions by which the men of 
our day have turned the silver of the mountain stream 
into the gold of grainfield and orchard to be translated 
into command of the precious metal that is the basis 
of finance and the measure of prosperity. 


Ground by glacial ice, carried by tumbling torrent, 
laid by lakes which later disappeared, the rocks and 
layered lava of the mountains found their way down- 
ward to form the soil where the still-living streams 
can be brought to build the garden spots of the world. 


Old as the civilization of the semi-tropics where it 
was first practiced, irrigation has reached its highest 
development in the temperate zones of Washington, 
where it has set. the agricultural and horticultural stan- 
dard for the world. 


IRRIGATION 221 


Along the rivers man has always made the begin- 
nings of his husbandry. In the eastern states the first 
settlers sought the rich loam of the bottom-lands, and 
only when the supply of these had been exhausted did 
he turn to the upland prairies and break the sod where 
today the productive farms of the Mississippi valley 
and its great tributaries are flourishing. Still relying 
upon distributed rainfall and without recourse to irriga- 
tion they have found such lands among their richest, 
and may look back with wonder on the belief of the 
pioneers in that region who thought that a farm must 
be cleared amid the woodlands along the streams, skep- 
tical of any value in the expanses of prairie. 


Where irrigation has flourished, it likewise had its 
beginnings along the rivers. It may be debated whether 
this was due to the requirements for bringing water 
easily and cheaply on the land, or whether the settlers 
followed the traditions of earlier generations, and inci- 
dentally found their locations favorable for undertaking 
irrigation where rainfall proved inadequate. At any 
rate the first reclaimed tracts were covered by com- 
paratively cheap and easily constructed ditches, and 
only when such lands were all taken was there felt 
the need of larger undertakings, which by long and 
elevated canals, flumes and tunnels, could bring water 
long distances over high-level lines to reclaim thous- 
ands of acres in a single system. 


Once inaugurated, irrigation in the state proved 
its value indisputably, and on many a project the entire 
capital investment originally made has been equalled 
or exceeded by the returns from a single crop, winning 
for the state of Washington prestige as a world-leader 
in reclamation practice and returns. 


The beginnings go back more than a century. John 
Clark, a member of the Astor party is credited with 
the role of pioneer, having planted a crop and irrigated 
land on the lower Spokane as long ago as 1812. Dr. 
Marcus Whitman irrigated land at the mission near 


228 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


Walla Walla as early as 1887, and the newcoming 
settlers who took up the lands of the river bottoms fol- 
lowed the example that had demonstrated its success 
and advisability. 


The first canal was constructed in the Yakima valley 
in 1874, turning attention to the possibilities of larger 
projects. In 1890 the Sunnyside canal was started 
under the direction of the transcontinental railroad, 
the Northern Pacific, which recognized the importance 
of advancing agriculture as a source of commodities 
for transportation. 


By this project water was diverted from the Yak- 
ima river, and carried along the east side by the canal 
which ultimately reached a length of sixty miles. It 
involved branch canals and laterals aggregating five 
hundred and fifty miles, and irrigated an area of 40,000 
acres. 


When the federal reclamation service was established 
by enactment in 1902, the Yakima valley was one of 
the first localities to be investigated, and the Sunny- 
side canal system was acquired by the service as part 
of its larger program. Approximately 300,000 acres 
in the Yakima valley are included in the areas now 
under irrigation, with 208,000 acres yet to be reclaimed 
by the Indian service and the United States reclamation 
service with the co-operation of the Washington State 
reclamation service. The system includes reservoirs in 
the mountain lakes and meadows with an ultimate 
storage capacity of 927,000 acre-feet—or enough to 
cover nearly a million acres to a depth of one foot of 
- water. 


The annual crop return from the tracts under irri- 
gation in this valley is estimated at from $45,000,000 
to $50,000,000. It has attained a figure more than one 
hundred per cent greater than the original cost of all 
the irrigation works. 


Nearer the Cascade Mountains, in the same valley, 
known in its upper portion as the Kittitas, private enter- 


IRRIGATION 229 


prise has put under irrigation approximately 72,000 
acres, and another 70,000 is to be reclaimed by what 
is termed the high-line project, which has been under- 
taken with state and federal assistance. This district 
is on a par with the earlier-developed Yakima lands 
in productivity and prosperity. 


Another district of world-wide reputation is the 
Wenatchee country, the fame of whose apples has 
gone all over the world. Besides the country immedi- 
ately tributary to Wenatchee, the name has come gener- 
ically to include the “North Country”, up the Col- 
umbia river from the city—the Lake Chelan, Methow, 
and Okanogan districts. In Chelan county alone the 
watering of an additional twenty thousand acres in 
fifteen years has raised the taxable wealth from 
$1,200,000 to more than $22,000,000—a concrete illus- 
tration of what reclamation means as an agent in 
advancing prosperity. 

One of the principal projects now under way is the 
Methow-Okanogan, by which water taken from the 
Methow river is to be carried by tunnel through the 
divide to the Okanogan valley, reclaiming thousands of 
acres on the bench high above the Okanogan river 
itself as it flows to merge with the current of the Col- 
umbia. 7 


This work is under supervision of the state service, 
and the land settlement commission has undertaken a 
program of supervising the placing of land on the 
market as the larger tracts in present holdings are 
sub-divided according to requirements. This super- 
vision is to eliminate the speculative feature, and insure 
the actual settlement of land by the purchaser to whom 
it gives protection in his industry for its profitable 
improvement. 

Among the many other localities where irrigation has 
been established by great co-operative undertakings are 
Kennewick and Pasco, Walla Walla, Spokane, White 
Salmon and Okanogan, the last-named being one of the 
most typical projects of the federal service. 


230 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


Even on the Olympic peninsula, in the Puget Sound 
country, irrigation has been applied in the Sequim 
district, where those who have tested it say it means 
two or three crops of hay instead of one from unirri- 
gated land and has multiplied the value of acreage from 
sixty to a hundred fold; also at Yelm, near Olympia, 
with marked results. 


Large crops are produced in the river bottom lands 
of Western Washington without irrigation. The result 
from the cultivation of the logged-off table land is not 
so satisfactory except where irrigation is practiced. 
I have had experience in this and know it is important; 
irrigating such land has nearly or quite doubled the 
yield, improved the quality of products and reduced 
the cost. 


When the fact so abundantly demonstrated is con- 
sidered, that such land can not be prepared ready for 
cultivation at less than from two to three hundred 
dollars an acre and that irrigation would not cost any- 
where near that amount and would approximately 
double the yield, improve the quality and provide cer- 
tain crops, the question of irrigation would not be 
long delayed. 


In all the present irrigated area of the state amounts 
to 546,000 acres, with 30,000 more in projects now 
under construction. The aggregate acreage suscept- 
ible of reclamation is about 2,650,000 acres. Naturally 
the costs of putting water on the land will be higher 
with the latter projects, as they involve greater engin- 
eering undertakings, the less arduous enterprises having 
been the first to attract favorable attention and action. 
But they have served their purpose in demonstrating 
the rate of return that can be assured, and giving 
warrant for the greater expenditure that may be 
involved in the projects yet to be carried through. 


Of the latter, the one proposal that overshadows 
all others, and is without doubt the greatest ever sub- 
mitted to the attention of the United States reclam- 


IRRIGATION 231 


ation service is the Columbia Basin project, which 
contemplates the irrigation of 1,753,000 acres in Adams, 
Franklin, Grant, Spokane and Walla Walla counties, 
taking the waters of the Pend d’Oreille, or Clark’s 
Fork of the Columbia, through concrete lined canals, 
tunnels, artificial and natural lakes for a distance of 
130 miles from the site of the diversion dam to the 
beginning of distribution. The lands to be covered 
are bounded on the west by the Columbia river and 
on the south by the Snake river as it flows to join the 
Columbia where the latter turns westward to form a 
boundary line to its mouth between Washington and 
Oregon. The entire basin, according to geologists, was 
in past ages the bed of a vast lake, which later receded 
to the Pacific, leaving a layer of rich soil, but in a 
locality now so arid that it supports little but sage- 
brush growth until water is brought by canals or 
artesian wells to reclaim it. 


The entire tract lies in almost level prairies, with 
southern slopes, with coulees that provide favorable 
drainage and facile irrigation. The maximum eleva- 
tion is 1700 feet with an average of 400 feet at the 
Columbia river, with long days of continual sunshine 
during the growing season. Immunity from frost is 
assured under such conditions. 


Transportation is already available by five railroad 
systems and by the river boats on the Columbia and 
Snake, the government having built large locks at the 
Cascades and at Celilo. 


Climatic and soil conditions are pronounced prac- 
tically the same as in the Yakima valley; according to 
the official surveys they are even Superior in many 
respects because of lower altitude and southern slope. 
But assuming them to be on a par, the figures of yield 
in the Yakima region as a basis under irrigation show 
crops as follows: wheat, 50 to 64 bushels an acre; corn, 
60 to 70 bushels an acre; alfalfa, 6 to 7 tons an acre; 
sugar beets, 15 to 25 tons an acre; potatoes, 10 tons 


20 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


an acre. With an area in the project six times that of 
the reclaimed lands in the Yakima valley, the annual 
crop yield should run from $250,000,000 to $300,000,000 
when full development is reached. 


Taking into consideration the lands above the 
irrigable line which could still be utilized for grazing, 
there are untold possibilities for such an undertaking 
as stock-feeding. Furthermore, the area lies tributary 
to three great shipping centers that form points of a 
triangle around it—Spokane, Puget Sound ports and 
Portland. Range cattle shipped to these markets could 
be taken to the feed yards on ranches in the Columbia 
Basin, and fattened for market, just as is now done 
in the corn belt of Iowa and Illinois tributary to the 
Chicago and Omaha stockyards, and would soon develop 
into one of the most profitable industries of the west. 
From the ranges of Washington the cattle and sheep 
could also be driven to the feed yards, and this step 
would place on a business basis an enterprise that must 
always be more or less of a gamble while the stock 
are left to range in the winter; if the stockman wins 
by bringing a fair percentage through the winter he 
makes immense profits; if the season is severe and the 
food supply on the grazing grounds fail he faces bank- 
ruptcy. The farmer of the Mississippi valley achieved 
independence when he learned to “market his corn on 
four feet’ and the agriculturist of the western states 
may take a leaf from this book. 


Another correlated possibility that figures heavily 
is that of waterpower. The aqueduct system has been 
planned to permit utilization of many drops in level 
for development of the potential energy, while close 
at hand on Priest Rapids in the Columbia river is 
the site of a great project under consideration. Cheap 
electric power would permit irrigation by pumping 
on thousands of acres just above the level that could 
be reached by a gravity system. Electric power in 
ample quantity and at a cheap rate would not only 
extend the reclaimable acreage, but would also assure 


IRRIGATION Bow 


modern service and conveniences for the residents of 
the imperial tract within the boundaries of the project. 


If it be accepted that agriculture is the basic indus- 
try on which all other prosperity is built, it can be 
seen what the addition of more than a million and a 
half acres to Washington would mean. In the com- 
paratively small farms which prevail under irrigation, 
there would be a vast increase in population, to provide 
a market for the manufacturing and commercial houses 
of the state, with so many more customers to be reached 
with all the advantage of freight differentials favoring 
the maker of Pacific Northwest products. 


Completion of the project would add hundreds of 
millions to the assessed valuation of the state, permit- 
ting advance in public improvements and in public ser- 
vice at lower rates of levy than have yet prevailed. 
This civic benefit would accompany the increasing 
market demand for every commodity, from the simplest 
necessities of life to the best and most justifiable lux- 
uries. 


“The problem of prime importance,” says the report 
made by the Columbia Basin Survey Commission of 
the State of Washington, “is to place upon the land the 
actual tiller of the soil. He must first of all be of the 
home-building type, for experience on other reclamation 
projects has shown that the man who accomplishes 
the most in the development of an irrigated tract is 
the man who lives on that tract. 


“All published records of production, regardless of 
what part of the world is being studied, and regardless 
of the nature of the crop being produced, show that 
the smaller tracts average a higher output per acre 
than the larger tracts. The United States reclamation 
records show that the forty-acre tract produces very 
much more per acre than the quarter or half-section. 
The small tract is almost invariably cultivated by its 
owner. No hired labor ever puts the careful attention 
upon the land that the owner does. This is another 


234 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


way of saying the smaller tract receives more thorough 
cultivation, and this is required fully to develop the 
possibilities of the soil. 


“Again the owner who is making his home upon the 
land will oftentimes foresee and avoid conditions which 
might be neglected by the non-resident owner or the 
tenant-farmer to the detriment of production. By liv- 
ing upon the land, the owner insures the productivity 
of his farm, and remains there as a permanent settler; 
whereas, the non-resident owner or the tenant may fail 
to make a profit and sooner or later the land passes 
into other hands. Every effort should be devoted to 
securing settlers upon the land who are of the home- 
owning type. If the irrigable area were divided into 
forty-acre tracts it would make homes for 44,000 
families. This is equivalent to an increased population 
on the farms of 200,000. 


“The annual increase of population in the United 
States rural districts is 600,000. To keep this increase 
on the farms would require 100,000 new farms each 
year, a condition, which, since there are no more free 
homesteads, cannot be met. The demand for land is 
so great, and the available lands that offer a reasonable 
chance for agricultural success are so scarce, that the 
Columbia Basin project will be settled as rapidly as 
water is available for the several tracts. 


“If the entire fifteen million acres of remaining 
irrigable lands in the United States are reclaimed, the 
natural increase in farm population would settle that 
area in four years. It is therefore impossible to 
develop irrigable tracts in excess of the demand, and 
the future offerings of satisfactory lands will be imme- 
diately settled and brought into production.” 


The following detailed figures on the 1918 crop 
returns of developed irrigation projects in the state — 
of Washington, and on the new projects under construc- 
tion or consideration, have been furnished by Harry F. 


IRRIGATION 235 


Giles, deputy commissioner of the Washington state 
bureau of statistics and immigration: 


1918 CROP RETURNS 


Developed ConstructionValue Raw Value Improved Value 
Projects Area Cost Land Land Annual Crop 
$105 $7 $200 $60 
PER OTONI GH Peaceseeesscecopseeeesesces 82,000 $3,360,000 $224,000 $6,400,000 $1,920,000 
$60 $7 $200 $75 
MUNN VSIGGIs to crete ee 100,000 $6,000,000 $700,000 $20,000,000 $7,500,000 
$35 $8 $175 $70 
DWV ADA COiateticte tease cae 60,000 $2,100,000 $480,000 $10,500,000 $4,200,000 
$100 $8 $250 $150 
Yakima (Private) 20,000 $2,000,000 $160,000 $5,000,000 $3,000,000 
$75 $4 $175 $60 
HE@NTIE WICK) )caiccscseeosiceacs 11,000 $828,000 $44,000 $1,925,000 $660,000 
$100 $4 $200 $100 
Okanogan (Govt.) 10,000 $1,000,000 $40,000 $2,000,000 $1,000,000 
$100 $2.50 $200 $90 
Okanogan (West) 10,000 $1,000,000 $25,000 $2,000,000 $900,000 
$60 $4 $200 $90 
WV RITESEONE yy oes caceennonose 9,000 $540,000 $36,000 $1,800,000 $810,000 
$30 $4 $200 $90 
Salmons CLG) cae tescccceee 4,000 $120,000 $16,000 $800,000 $360,000 
$65 $4 $200 $90 
Pleasant Valley .......... 2,000 $130,000 $8,000 $400,000 $180,000 
$65 $4 $400 $300 
TSTEWSEET 0 ...cstepstetsoceeosees 1,300 $845,000 $5,200 $520,000 $390,000 
$50 $4 $200 $75 
Methow and Trib. .... 10,000 $500,000 $40,000 $2,000,000 $750,000 
$30 $4 $225 $200 
Pumping (Okanogan) 2,000 $60,000 $8,000 $450,000 $400,000 
$100 $4 $400 $200 
Whclanwy ts 5,000 $500,000 $20,000 $2,000,000 $1,000,000 
$50 $4 $450 $200 
MALI Glea Dae eters erste cecesctiecteeces 3,000 $150,000 $12,000 $1,350,000 $600,000 
$30 $4 $225 $200 
(Op aVa te ee et eee ee 1,200 $36,000 $4,800 $270,000 $240,000 
$100 $4 $700 $500 
Wenatchee Projects.... 25,000 $2,500,000 $100,000 $17,500,000 $12,500,000 
$30 $100 $400 $140 
Walla Walla Projects 17,000 $510,000 $1,700,000 $6,800,000 $2,380,000 
$80 $5 $175 $75 
TAS ATE: Wyck UE SSeS eeceam i, 60,000 $4,800,000 $300,000 $10,500,000 $4,800,000 
Developed ConstructionValue Raw Value Improved Value 
Projects Area Cost Land Land Annual Crop 
$100 $15 $175 $75 
LETTS FL Ra eo 70,000 $7,000,000 $1,050,000 $12,250,000 $5,250,000 
$120 $12 $200 $75 
Yakima Highline ........ 200,000 $24,000,000 $2,400,000 $40,000,000 $15,000,000 
$110 $12 $200 $75 
(OMe Ss ap eny a) a a 60,000 $6,600,000 $720,000 $12,000,000 $6,000,000 
$100 $20 $175 $75 
Horse Heaven .............. 250,000 $25,000,000 $5,000,000 $48,750,000 $12,750,000 
$7 $8 $175 $75 
Columbia Basin .......... 2,000,000 $158,000,000 $16,000,000  $350,000,000 $150,000,00 
Five Mile or $80 $8 $175 $75 
Lower Snake ............ 120,000 $9,600,000 $960,000 $21,000,000 $9,000,000 


236 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


Undeveloped Irrigable Agricultural Lands in the State of Washington, 
which can be reclaimed at a reasonable cost 


Acres 
MeiiGw «Valley 162.4202) eA ee eee Okenovan = County ee 4,300 
Sinisbickin) Valley | |...) cc... ne ee ee af fain beets. 3d as 2,200 
Methow-Okanogan Project ........scccccccecesceceeeeeee 4 Ghd) pap eee Wise a 40,000 
Bonaparte Praject | urn 2 ene, ee ts Paty gett Ae RR ERO. 4,000 
Whitestone Project:):) ee “¢ oA Pi NES 11,500 
Horse. Hesyen \ Project | sth ey Tee Benton s County ics eee ees 200,000 
White Bluffs, Hanford & Benton, Franklin & Grant 
Five Mile Rapids Project -2........--cc:c220-0----.-- Oounties ye waa ea Skis 75,000 
Kettle «River Valley (22300 9 fi) Peo ey Berry 1} Countyaree ae 5,000 
Kettle} River! iV alley. 225.20 as as ee Ferry & Stevens County ........ 4,200 
Colville Valley p20 thw) se sl) Se a Stevens’) Countyye oe 6,200 
south “Half ‘of, \Pend Oreille County ‘i cee ee ee ak a 8,000 
Curlew Valley Seo UP ye ane Herry (Countya inc ee 2,500 
DAO alley sini eo eee ee ne Satay 4 pa TO RUN Be LAMAN SEG eT, 3,000 
Chamolane iiCreelk iis ee ee tee Stevens County  .2..0....0.00........... 3,500 
Camas Prairie, Glenwood Valley .................. Khekitats County iraase 25,000 
Along Columbia River (Pumping projectS) (  ccecoccccccccsececececcecocecceoceenceccceocecceee 2,000 
Kittitas) Highline) Project nie e le ena Kittitas sCounty ves eee 70,000 
North & East Part of Kittitas Valley ...... a Tair Mo... tee tee ees 12,000 
West of Yakima River, Kittitas Valley ...... fe of PL ee ee ON oa 3,000 
Teanaway Valley ii 2cc 0 ene an elie a SB Uhh AAMT BA ed a 1,500 
Uppers Khitticas i Valleyiiue se ey ceo eee ts Hee Reus ere Dee 4,500 
White: SalmonsValley ei ie 0 eee Klickitat) County) (cose 6,000 
WhiterSalmonitt Valley 2). ss ee eee Skamania County  .........--:-----t. 1,500 
Littles White’ Salmon) Valleyii2...0) ee fe eda LL A Sak 4,500 
Kittitas sProjech wares 2 ea eee eens ei ae Wakimal) Gounty 2.2. eee 70,000 
Wenas-Selah-Moxee Project  ..........:ccccsececeeeee ? Spl V Lae ee ea URE A 35,000 
ROZAI NE OTeCU cet ote eee One ie ott Wy cick ooh eee Bae 68,000 
KennewiekitiProject 22a isi eer ee eee penton + County aise eee 40,000 
Yakima Indian Reservation 2.........-.cccccsecoce BN AkiIms i COUNLY fic cste ees 70,000 
Columbia Basin Project cs 05) ee a ee Ae A ie oe 1,750,000 
Lamor Reservoir & Irrigation System ........ Walla Walla County .....2............ 60,000 


SOREL A princes stail niet tps daa ed 2,592,400 


CHAPTER XXXI. 


WATERPOWER 


Washington Has Greatest Undeveloped Water Power in U. S.— 
Five Million Potential H. P. in State—Means Immense In- 
dustrial Developments—Harnessing of Water Power in 
Pioneer Days Crude—Considerable Power in Use Now— 
fel Projects Contemplated—Table of Present Development 
in State. 


In the economy which is destined to make for 
progress and prosperity in the enterprises of tomorrow, 
there is no resource which means more to any com- 
munity than an abundance of water power which can be 
cheaply and extensively utilized. ‘White coal’ is the 
expressive name given to this energy which lies latent 
in the swift currents of upland rivers; it is an asset 
in which the state of Washington and other regions of 
the Pacific Northwest are peculiarly fortunate by reason 
of their topography. 


Within the short distance of fifty miles, as the 
crow flies, the rivers of the west slope of the Cascades 
fall from an average altitude of five thousand feet at 
the summit, to sea level, supplying a constant volume 
and never-ending sufficiency for steady, all-year-round 
power, fed as they are by the rains of the lower levels 
and by the summer melting of snows in the higher 
altitudes. On the eastern slopes of the Cascade range 
are likewise unnumbered streams flowing down tumul- 
tuously from glaciers and mountain lakes located on 
the water shed of the Columbia river, tumbling in 
cataracts or rushing in rapids that have the roar of 
power unmistakable to men of constructive vision. 


238 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


This wide distribution of economic energy in the 
eastern portion of the state is of especial significance 
in making possible the irrigation by pumping systems 
of large tracts that cannot be reached by a gravity 
system. In the western half of the state, destined by 
reason of geographic location to be a busy hive of 
manufacturing industry that will supplement the 
commerce already passing through these channels, the 
assurance of cheap and ample power makes rapid 
advancement in manufacture certain. 


Washington has within its boundaries more unde- 
veloped waterpower than any other state in the union, 
a recent map of the United States geological survey 
showing 125 h. p. to the square mile for this state, 
almost twice that of the second commonwealth in the 
list. 


Government figures as to the minimum potential 
power show 4,932,000 for the state of Washington 
in a total of 26,736,000 for the entire country. Of the 
maximum potential in the United States, according to 
the U. S. Geological Survey, about sixteen per cent is 
in the streams of Washington; with proper storage 
facilities and equipment for conserving the high waters 
of the flood period, a total of 9,500,000 horsepower can 
be developed. 


What this means for the future can be determined 
by comparison with the present development which has 
already stamped this region as an important power 
center, though the total power thus far harnessed 
amounts to but 361,000, hardly four per cent of the 
resources with which nature endowed the state when 
the Cascades were uplifted in the path of the warm 
and moist winds from the Pacific to rear glacier crowned 
crests from which the streams hurry downward in 
mighty foam-splashed currents from the crystal source 
to the sea. Taking as an illustration three streams 
which are prominent in the development, it is esti- 
mated that the White river and its tributaries can 


WATERPOWER 239 


produce a maximum of 285,000 h. p.; Cedar river 
200,000 h. p.; Snoqualmie river 400,000 h. p.; and 
Skagit river 600,000 h. p.; of the total amount the 
present development aggregates about 100,000 h. p. 


Harnessing of water power in pioneer days was a 
matter of the crude flume and overshot wheel. In 
Seattle the first water system was an open trough 
leading to the Yesler mill from a small tank located 
between what are now Third and Fourth avenues, just 
north of Yesler Way. The supply came from a spring 
that was the source of a small stream running to the 
bay. Water power was taken from this pipe line for 
a tannery that was on its route. The trough was 
later replaced by a wooden pipe made by boring twelve- 
inch logs in six-foot lengths. 


When utilization of water power turned from the 
old-fashioned mill wheels to the modern turbines for 
transformation into electric energy, the great water- 
falls first attracted attention, and Niagara set the pace 
for America. Naturally in the western region similar 
locations were sought, and one of the first developments 
on a large scale was at scenic Snoqualmie Falls, where 
the river plunges over a precipice 268 feet high. Fol- 
lowing the precedent of Niagara the first power station 
was excavated in the basalt rock beside the cataract. 
Later another station was built below the falls proper, 
taking the water from above the point where the river 
plunges and conveying it by tunnel to the pen-stocks. 


Similar considerations attracted attention to the 
Spokane River, with the great falls in the heart of a 
city that has sprung up around them to become the 
metropolis of the Inland Empire. Picturesque as they 
are, these cataracts are but impressive climaxes of the 
tremendous power latent in the Spokane river for a 
stretch of a hundred miles in which it drops 1,280 
feet, giving a potential energy of 400,000 horse-power ; 
of this amount four plants have already harnessed 
172,000 h. p. The city of Spokane has its own plant, 


240 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


with waterwheels rated at 3,800 horsepower and gen- 
erators at 2,100 kilowatts. 


The first development at Snoqualmie was undertaken 
in 1898 by Charles H. Baker, a civil engineer from 
Chicago, where his father was a broker. He designed 
and built a plant with a capacity of 6,000 kilowatts, 
from which power and light were furnished to Tacoma, 
Seattle, and later, Everett. The improvements pro- 
gressed, and in 1911 the plant was acquired by the 
Puget Sound Traction, Light & Power Company, now 
known as the Puget Sound Power & Light Company, 
controlled by the Stone & Webster interests which are 
among the foremost in the country. 


The first plant built by this company was at the 
extreme lower end of the Puyallup river canyon in 
Pierce county, the site being named Electron. This 
was placed in operation in 1904. The waters of the 
Puyallup are fed by five glaciers on the slopes of 
Mount Rainier, furnishing a steady and inexhaustible 
supply, from which the present installation develops 
14,000 kilowatts. In Pierce county this company also 
has a plant, its largest, at Dieringer, where its turbines 
are rated at 56,000 h. p., with generators of 35,000 
kilowatt capacity installed. The water is diverted from 
the White river to Lake Tapps as a storage reservoir, 
the power house being located at the foot of the plateau 
on which the lake is found, from 500 to 700 feet above 
the surrounding levels. 


A fourth hydro-electric plant operated by this com- 
pany is in Whatcom county, at Nooksack Falls on the 
north fork of the Nooksack river. The cataract has a 
sheer plunge of 101 feet, and the plant operates under 
a head of 176 feet, developing 2,500 horse-power. 


Municipal undertakings have been made on a large 
scale in this field, the city of Tacoma having a plant 
on the Nisqually river, with turbine ratings of 32,000 
horse-power and generators of 20,000 kilowatts. Seattle 


WATERPOWER 241 


utilizes power from the Cedar river, source of the muni- 
cipal water supply through Cedar Lake, for develop- 
ment of current for city lighting, as well as private 
power and light service. Additions in contemplation 
would almost double the capacity of 31,500 kilowatts. 
The city of Seattle has also undertaken a power project 
on the Skagit river in Whatcom county, under federal 
permit, with ultimate capacity of 600,000 horsepower, 
according to engineering estimates. 


In Eastern Washington, as has been noted, pioneer 
undertakings in the hydro-electric line were on the 
Spokane river. Here in its plants the Washington Water 
Power company has installed capacity of 108,250 horse- 
power. The Spokane & Eastern company also has a 
mammoth installation. 


The many rapids in the Columbia river, with its 
stupendous volume of water, have attracted electrical 
engineers, and along the river and its tributaries the 
Pacific Power & Light company has many plants strat- 
egically located. 


One of the greatest projects under consideration is 
at Priest Rapids in the Columbia, where engineers 
estimate that a total of a half-million horse-power will 
be available. Under the recently enacted federal legis- 
lation providing permits for water-power development 
this site is under consideration, among its possibilities 
being the operation of pumping plants for irrigation and 
the manufacture of nitrates from the air for agri- 
cultural use. Other important rivers of the east side 
in addition to the Columbia and Spokane, which Have 
potential hydro-electric sites are the Snake, Pend 
d’Oreille, Methow, Okanogan, Chelan, Yakima, Wen- 
atchee and Klickitat, with numerous tributaries to each 
of them. 


West of the mountains the Stillaguamish, Skyko- 
mish, Skokomish, Elwah, White Salmon, Lewis, Toutle 
and Cowlitz are among the streams that are command- 
ing interest under the new conditions. 


242 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


Besides the established service of light and power 
for industrial motors, there is a vast field of possibilities 
for the application of electricity when the streams are 
harnessed to more nearly a capacity figure. Electro- 
metallurgy and electro-chemistry are just at the period 
of dawn. Electric smelting and electrolytic refining 
have been demonstrated to be practical when ample 
current is available at economical rates. The electric 
furnace has made its greatest achievement in produc- 
tion of some of the rarer base metals, making them 
available commercially where they were not used before, 
and supplying such valuable products as molybdenum 
steel, vanadium and tungsten. Electricity is responsible 
for the commercial use of aluminum; and the electro- 
metallurgist anticipates the day when he can replace 
blast and crucible furnaces with electric furnaces for 
production of pig iron and steel. This work will 
inevitably find its chief location where there is abun- 
dant water power with natural resources, and Wash- 
ington offers the combination. 


Among the electro-chemical processes which have 
proved successful are the manufacture of various alka- 
lines, such as chlorine and caustic soda, processes for 
fixation of nitrogen by extraction from the air for 
manufacture of nitric acid; production of metallic mag- 
nesium, phosphorus, and artificial abrasives. One prom- 
inent electrical engineer is quoted in a state publication 
as predicting that Washington will some day be called 
“the factory of the country,” just as Niagara has been 
called in the past ‘“‘the laboratory of America,” because 
of what has been accomplished in electrical experiment 
and production. “Washington,” says this engineer, C. 
E. Bogardus, of Seattle, ‘“‘will be the greatest state in 
the union in electro-chemistry and electro-metallurgy.” 


The table following, compiled by Mr. W. G. Weigle, 
forest supervisor of the U. S. Forestry Service, shows 
in detail the present development of hydro-electric 
energy in the Evergreen State. It may be noted in 


WATERPOWER 243 


study of these statistics that 746 watts are equivalent 
to 1 horse-power. Conversely, 1 kilowatt is equal 
approximately to one and one-third horse-power. 


1920 WATER POWER IN STATE OF WASHINGTON 


Compiled from information collected from individ- 
ual companies and cities furnished by Public Service 
Commission and Forest Service. Information concern- 
ing small plants rather incomplete. Names of smaller 
organizations subject to correction due to transfer of 
ownership. 


W. G. WEIGLE, 
Forest Supervisor. 


OF PROGRESS 


SEVENTY YEARS 


244 


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CHAPTER XXXII. 


MANUFACTURES 


Everything Required for Manufacturing Here—Advantages Both 
East and West—No Manufacturers Here 70 Years Ago— 
First Important Industry—Lumber a_Staple—Many Flour- 
ing Mills—Large Smelting Works—Fruit and Fish Can- 
neries—Numerous Packing Plants—Printing and Publishing 
—Wood Pulp—Milk Products—Many Smaller Industries— 
Some New Ones—Summary Table—Shakes and Shingles. 


Western Washington possesses within itself prac- 
tically all the essential requisites for becoming a great 
manufacturing district. Its unequalled harbors, its 
almost inexhaustible timber supply, its unlimited water 
power, excellent coal mines and last, though not least 
in importance, its mild and salubrious climate, all 
combine to make it one of the choicest locations cn the 
globe for manufacturing enterprises. Nor is it the 
western portion alone that can claim all the advantages 
for future industrial activities; the great and prosper- 
ous Inland Empire also has many and great advantages 
for the development of manufacturing. In many por- 
tions of that vast territory there is quite an abundance 
of timber, productive coal mines, ample water, when 
harnessed, to supply power for any and all kinds of 
manufacturing plants; and besides it is blest with a 
fertile soil from which is produced the finest grains 
and grasses, the most perfect vegetables and most 
delicious fruits that can be found in the temperate zone. 
It lacks harbors at its door, but harbors are not 
absolutely essential for manufacturing establishments, 
where there is sufficient railway transportation. It is 
not unlikely that Spokane, with its extensive con- 
tributing territory of minerals, timber and agriculture, 
may some day develop into a famous manufacturing 
center, a worthy rival of the cities on the Sound. 


MANUFACTURERS 247 


Seventy years ago there practically did not exist 
in this vast territory now embraced within the confines 
of our State, either husbandry or manufacture. To 
be sure, there were a few hundred white men scattered 
here and there, principally in the vicinity of Puget 
Sound, who led, as one might say, a hand-to-mouth exist- 
ence. A small number even then were at times 
engaged in making shingles by hand, some of which 
were sold to the Hudson’s Bay Company, or bartered 
to captains of small sailing vessels, that occasionally 
entered the Sound from California and other points; 
but the business was too insignificant to be called 
manufacturing. 


It was not many years however until the lumbering 
industry began to assume considerable importance, and 
for a long period has been the staple industry of 
Western Washington and in all probability will continue 
as the most important for many years to come. But 
since the beginning of the present century numerous 
enterprises, in the manufacturing line, have grown 
from small beginnings to large proportions; and every 
little while some entirely new industry is established 
here by far-seeing business men who sense the great 
possibilities that the future holds for this State. 


Men of mature judgment, who have travelled and 
observed, have stated time and again that many decades 
will not have elapsed before the manufactures and com- 
merce of the Pacific Northwest will not only equal but 
surpass, that of New England. And why shouldn’t 
it? We have incomparably better harbors, finer cli- 
mate and far more natural resources than the north- 
eastern commonwealths. 


Besides the lumbering industry we have now many 
flourishing manufacturing plants in the Western portion 
and some in the Eastern part of this State. 


There are many first-class flouring mills in the 
State, where high grade flour and every kind of cereal 
product is manufactured for domestic use and export. 


248 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


It would be invidious to give names or localities; but 
the reputation of all stand high in commercial circles. 
We possess smelting works as complete and up-to- 
date as any in the land, prepared to handle the im- 
mense output that must soon come from the inexhaust- 
ible deposits of Alaska. Fruit and fish are put up and 
preserved in numerous canneries in various parts of 
the State and distributed to almost every portion of 
the habitable globe to tickle the palates of those who 
are not so fortunate as to dwell where such delicacies 
form a part of the daily menu, as in our favored 
Washington. 


Many extensive slaughtering and packing plants 
are in active operation here wherein the livestock prod- 
ucts of the State are taken care of; the surplus being 
exported to foreign lands. 


Printing and publishing is now an important State 
industry and many high-class establishments of that 
character abound within our borders. Allied to this 
is the pulp industry, which is developing rapidly, many 
plants having been recently added; and it can now 
be said that the manufacture of paper has already 
become one of the important industries of the common- 
wealth and destined to develop much larger propor- 
tions. 


The milk products industry has had a wonderful 
growth in the two last decades and its possibilities for 
the future would be hard to overestimate. 


In another chapter this flourishing business is given 
more extended space. 


In the big and expanding enterprises carried on in 
our State the steel industry is certainly deserving of 
more than ordinary consideration. 


The first step taken in the establishment of the 
iron and steel industry in this state was in 1882, when 
a blast furnace of 25 tons capacity was erected at Iron- 
dale, near Port Townsend. In after years it was 
enlarged and operated for several years. 


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MANUFACTURERS 249 


In 1894, an iron rolling mill was erected at Lake- 
view, near Tacoma. This was moved to Youngstown 
in 1903. In 1910 the Western Steel Corporation built 
the first three open hearth furnaces in the Northwest 
at Irondale. 


In 1919 part of the equipment was moved to Youngs- 
town. The Youngstown plant has been recently enlarged 
at a cost of more than a million dollars and will 
undoubtedly become a most important factor in the 
manufacturing development of the State. 


This State also possesses several large and well 
equipped establishments where machinery of all kinds 
is manufactured from a donkey engine to a can opener. 


Besides the foregoing, may be mentioned: Manufac- 
ture of toys, hand tools and high-class furniture of all 
kinds, phonographs, electric cooking and utility appli- 
ances, cut-glass in both heavy and light patterns, 
chocolates and sugar, and very recently there has been 
established a factory for tanning and preparing the 
skins of sharks, walrus and other denizens of the deep. 
It may be interesting to know that beautiful leather 
can be made from shark hides. It resembles what is 
known as “Russian” leather and is suitable for uphol- 
stering, making hand bags, or water-proof shoes. A 
shark hide can be split as many as eight times without 
impairing its utility. There are said to be 79 varieties 
of sharks in the Sound and adjacent waters. 


SHAKES AND SHINGLES 


I have lived but precious few years of my life under 
a shingle roof. All of the log cabins of the Pioneers 
were covered with “shakes”, otherwise known as clap- 
boards. The buildings were low, often without a 
chamber above the living room of the ground floor, 
the roof taking the place of a ceiling, supplying abun- 
dant ventilation and freely admitting the music of the 
“patter of the rain” to the ears of the happy inmates 
below. The shakes, usually about three feet long and 


250 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


from six to twelve inches wide carefully laid with 
a second layer to break joints, projecting at each end 
beyond the cabin wall, provided a splendid roof, and 
would last a lifetime when made out of our durable 
cedar timber of which there is such an abundant supply. 
These layers of shakes were usually held in place by 
weight poles—straight saplings—extending the whole 
length of the cabin, instead of nails, nails being too 
expensive and besides, not so secure. 


When we moved out of the cabin at Puyallup to 
the new residence, a metal roof took the place of the 
clapboards and a close ceiling overhead of the story 
below. 


I can truly confess that I have a feeling akin to 
affection, should I say, to the old cabin roof, weight 
poles and all. Laugh if you please, youngsters! It 
will do me no harm. Like the ‘old oaken bucket 
that hung in the well’, or “the little red school house’’, 
of precious memory to many, the moss-covered clap- 
board roofs of the cabins revive old-time memories of 
happy pioneer days, that cannot be effaced. 


The pioneers, however, soon learned the art of 
making shingles. 


The Hudson’s Bay Company had preceded the Ameri- 
can pioneer settlement, and had established a trade in 
other articles than furs and among which was shingles, 
for which it was willing to exchange food or clothing 
to the needy newcomers. And so it came about that 
hand-made shingles almost assumed the role of legal 
tender, instead of money, of which so scant a supply 
existed, as anything the great company had for sale 
would be exchanged for shingles. 


A summary of the purchases of shingles by the 
Hudson’s Bay Company, or rather by its double, the 
Puget Sound Agricultural Company, at Fort Nisqually, 
subsequent to 1847, as shown by the books, reveals 
in part the extent of the trade of 1,150,000 for which 


MANUFACTURERS Pi 


not less than three dollars per thousand and from that 
to ten dollars were paid, the higher price after the 
discovery of gold in California. One pioneer alone 
supplying 225,000; for 35,000 of which he was paid at 
the rate of ten dollars per thousand. 


But it was not until about the year 1885, that 
the manufacture of shingles began to develop into an 
industry that has expanded in recent years so as to 
become a very important factor in the commercial 
activities of our state. The building of railroads gave 
the stimulus to the infant industry. The old methods 
of splitting them out by hand gave way to machinery. 


The first machines used were what are known as 
“hand machines,’ manufactured in Grand Rapids, 
Michigan, and in which very little except the actual 
sawing of the shingle was automatic. This type was 
followed by the “Single Block’ machine which soon 
gave way to the “Double Block”, and which in turn 
was followed by the “Ten Block”, each succeeding type 
speeding up production. The foregoing types of ma- 
chines have been almost universally discarded in favor 
of the present day “Upright” machine, of which there 
are some 1500 in use in the State. 


In 1920 the output of shingles in the State of 
Washington was, according to the United States Forest 
Service Report, approximately 4,800,000,000 valued at 
$12,500,000.00. The number of shingle mills in the 
State is 350. 


Washington is the leading state in the U. S. in 
the manufacture of shingles and possesses a greater 
quantity of red cedar, peculiarly adapted for that 
purpose, than any other state. 


252 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


MANUFACTURING SUMMARY FOR THE STATE 


Per cent of 
Census increase 
1919 1914 1914-19 
Number of establishments 20........--.-ce-cecceseeececeee 4,919 3,829 28.5 
Persons engaged in manufactures ...................... 150,482 78,448 91.8 
Dalsvied. employees)’ 0 oe) ee oe 13,354 8,088 65.1 
Wage earners (average number) .................. 132,932 67,205 97.8 
ILUNOLY) HOXBEDOW CT y.).scc.cackensialaeedke Le 587,702 399,567 47.1 
ERD OS ee oe A eee AC ea De ee $553,125,000 $277,715,000 99.2 
PREVIOUS C1 osha eadiieae tartrate een Cn ee eee 225,757,000 63,207,000 257.2 
Ga TIb a) ee a) er 30,574,000 11,504,000 165.8 
PVRS 8S oo ool Oe ee er J ane 195,183,000 51,703,000 277.6 
eloeine Oprodactiy ou owe Oh Samay 809,635,000 245,326,000 230.0 
MANUFACTURING SUMMARY FOR CITIES NAMED 
ABERDEEN—- 
Number of establishments ..............0............ 13 60 
Persons engaged in manufactures ................ 2,949 1,729 70.6 
OF Tesi ee RAG CLG IRN Peed eerrae Ean aS eralUee NPG $ 8,596,000 $ 4,830,000 78.0 
Value Vor productsy (eee aT te 15,758,000 4,815,000 221.8 
BELLINGHAM— 
Number of establishments .......................... 110 86 
Persons engaged in manufactures ............. 3,520 2,182 61.3 
CM tals ence cou, oe eid ye Wise) Coy cr Ne Rn ee ek $ 18,581,000 $ 6,940,000 95.7 
Wreite Mor. (DPOdUEtE iitos ent e ee N e t See 17,808,000 6,264,000 184.3 
EVERETT— 
Number of establishments ........................... 127 98 
Persons engaged in manufactures .............. 3,640 2,209 64.8 
Capital rer ee Say Wee Une aie METAS a a on rs $ 16,480,000 $ 6,298,000 161.7 
Mee cof products (0 Ene ce ust eee aie 21,887,000 6,530,000 235.2 
HOQUIAM— 
Number of establishments .............................. 38 33 
Persons engaged in manufactures .............. 2,293 1,759 30.4 
Capital sol bk geeay hy aka ie dy Uae Sea ee $ 7,026,000 $ 4,089,000 71.8 
Vee CLC Dronneta ts ce eee Lee oan 11,872,000 5,009,000 137.0 
SEATTLE— 
Number of establishments 20.....0.....cscc-ccee-00--- 1,229 1,014 oilee 
Persons engaged in manufactures .............. 47,074 15,761 198.7 
Cap rtaliiis op Mean Te Oa Un ee eye h $157,915,000 $61,317,000 157.5 
WiAIde OL ASROCUCES S (04. 05 ce esi ci ee el ae 274,431,000 64,475,000 325.6 
SPOKANE— 
Number of establishments ............000.0-000..----- 365 277 31.8 
Persons engaged in manufactures ................ 7,228 4,159 73.8 
ay bh» RS BOUTS ba RMR Ls iid ed aes WME UM eg $ 27,644,000 $18,891,000 46.3 
Waluenot pproducts sa ieee cere sues eee ee, 42,445,000 16,636,000 155.1 
TACOMA— 
Number of establishments ......2.0......0--22000.-2--- 348 339 PAE 
Persons engaged in manufactures .............. 12,355 8,084 52.8 
Car iter teas pate a as a ec) $ 68,098,000 $28,287,000 140.7 
Walue fof Aproducts (i hs eae ee ie ee ae 108,172,000 27,708,000 272.4 
VANCOUVER— 
Number of establishments  -.....-00...-.0.--20c--000- 39 28 
Persons engaged in manufactures .............. 4,827 425 1035.8 
Capital Tipster EE i Sea rg $ 52,577,000 $ 1,089,000 4728.0 
IM aliie Ole DEOGUCta ita fe eee ee ee ae 21,252,000 1,301,000 1533.5 
WALLA WALLA— 
Number of establishments .................2--2-00000- 69 47 
Persons engaged in manufactures .............. 611 455 34.3 
Capital iiscee eee rn Sr REA er ie a ea $ 3,020,000 $ 2,426,000 24.5 
iVialiesotmproducts wet... 2) heen pee 4,323,000 2,015,000 114.5 
YAKIMA— 
Number of establishments ................-.....-.------ 17 42 
Persons engaged in manufactures .............. 1,566 730 114.5 
Capital Fi ee ea iy ree eee ee ees en $ .4,921,000 $ 2,384,000 106.4 


Waluey of prodiicts /..ccce cette aaa 5,767,000 1,937,000 197.7 








SECTION OF LARGE FIR 12’ 6” DIAMETER 








TIMBER OF WASHINGTON 


CHAPTER XXXIII. 


LUMBER INDUSTRY 


Early Experiences Near Columbia River—Felling Giant Firs— 
Scaffolding for “Spring Board’—Oldest Church Steeple im 
the Nation—Open and Skid Roads—Advanced Methods— 
Great Destruction by Fires—Northwest Greatest Timber 
Storehouse on Earth—West Coast Lumbermen’s Article. 


The article prepared by the West Coast Lumbermen’s 
Association at the earnest solicitation of the author, 
on “The Lumber Industry of the Northwest,’ is so 
complete that not much more can be added without 
duplication. A short recital of some pioneer expe- 
riences, however, may be interesting, while casting 
some light upon the general condition of the timber 
region and industry of the early days of the Territory. 


The careful reader will note reference, in another 
chapter to a “hand-logging” experience of the author 
on the bank of the Columbia River, following the great 
flood of the winter of 1852-3. 


We had come from central Indiana, a region of 
comparatively small timber, of hickory, beach, walnut 
and sycamore trees. While accustomed to the use 
of the axe, we had never seen anything like the giant 
fir trees standing near the bank of the Columbia. How 
to fell one of these trees was a puzzler. The projecting, 
monster roots, angling up to finally take form as the 
body of the tree, precluded an axman from standing 
close to the body. 


An earlier pioneer pointed out how we might burn 
out the heart of the tree by boring two augur holes 
at an angle to meet inside the inner sap bark and 
drop a few coals into the upper angle. Work was 


254 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


suspended in the attempt to chop down the monster, a 
trip of forty miles made to procure an augur, and 
soon after had the satisfaction of achieving the desired 
result. 


One trouble encountered was that we could not 
guide the direction of the falling body as with the 
“curt”, a sloping cut formed by the ax, and then again, 
in one instance the fire continued consuming the body, 
despite all efforts to stop it. In after years, I knew 
of a fire in the top of a tree at Steilacoom, at least a 
hundred feet from the ground, that burned for over 
three months. At times, the flame would shed light 
around about like a great torch, then flicker and finally 
smolder for days, following the pitch seams of the 
trunk, at last reaching and consuming the great lateral 
roots. 


Twenty years ago, when memory served me better 
than now, I wrote of that “hand-logging’”, on the bank 
of the Columbia (subsequently published in my rem- 
iniscences, now nearly out of print), a more complete 
account of our experiences. 


Afterwards we acquired the art, to “scaffold” by 
cutting a notch in the body of the tree, inserting the 
end of what is called a “spring-board,”’ to stand on 
above the projecting roots; sometimes a second and 
not infrequently a third notch would be cut, each one 
higher, to get above not only the projecting roots, but 
likewise the tough butts near the ground. 


If the reader should ever visit Tacoma and take 
the trouble to go to the site of the first church built 
in that city, he would there see where an intrepid 
axman, in successive stages, climbed the body of a 
great tree and chopped it down full forty feet above 
the ground. Subsequently, a bell was place upon this 
unique, oldest church steeple of the nation. The body 
of the tree is now hidden from sight by a dense growth 
of ivy vine, destined to ultimately devour the substance 


LUMBER INDUSTRY 255 


of its support and precipitate its fall to the nearby 
church roof. 


From hand-logging with canthook, block and tackle, 
improvised rollers, etc., the next step was with oxen 
and skid roads. These roads, with .crosswise, half- 
buried skids every half-rod, enabled an ox-team to haul 
a surprising load, mostly or always on a down grade, 
a veritable train of logs; then followed the horse to 
displace the ox, which in time gave way to the donkey 
engine and cable, the narrow-gauge railroad, and finally, 
in many locations, the standard railway. Day after day, 
a log train at least half a mile long, with logs piled 
mountain-high, passes over the Northern Pacific tracks, 
through the city of Puyallup, on the down-grade from 
the mountains to the tide-water of Puget Sound at 
Tacoma. 


The growth of timber in the moist, mild climate 
on the western slope of the Cascade mountains and to 
the sea, including the Puget Sound basin, is rapid; 
one might say, almost continuous winter and summer. 


Vast areas of timber have been destroyed by fire. 
In the early settlement of the country, the pioneers 
were powerless to control the forest fires, and could 
only let the fires burn until the rain came. It’s differ- 
ent now. As I write, an aviator, just arrived from 
Portland, Oregon, a hundred and twenty miles distant, 
in a flight of two hours, reports that patrols, consisting 
of three machines and each with aviators to man them, 
will be stationed out over the Northwest, machines 
being in the air every minute of available daylight, 
scanning the horizon for the bit of smoke that means 
the starting of a possible disastrous forest fire. 


While the foregoing quotation is not history, there 
is no doubt that the precaution outlined will be taken. 
What already has been done is: Numerous rangers’ 
camps have been maintained, trails and roads opened, 
telephone lines built and maintained, with the result 


256 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


that the annual destruction by fire has been greatly 
reduced. 


The heritage of the forests of Washington, Oregon, 
British Columbia and Alaska, belong to the people of 
the earth for the generations to follow. No such vast 
storehouses of timber exist, as these of the Northwest 
Coast, elsewhere on the face of the globe. Our gov- 
ernment is now awake to the transcendental importance 
of preserving what nature has so bounteously bestowed. 


The pioneers upon their advent into the country 
at once took measures to utilize the timber first for 
their convenience and soon after for profit. First, by the 
froe and saw or axe, a little later by the whip-saw, 
soon to be followed by primitive mills propelled by water 
power. 


In a reminiscent mood of lighter vein, I have given 
a history of these, here designated as the “Up-and- 
Down” saw mill, though have not drawn on my imagi- 
nation to adorn a tale and the reader may venture 
to peruse the story as true history, which it is. 


The old story that everything that goes up must 
come down could not be proven true by the experience 
of an old pioneer, Nicholas Delin, who in the year 
1852, built his “Up and Down” saw-mill at the head- 
waters of Commencement Bay, now the waterfront 
of Tacoma. 


An artist has produced a faithful picture of the 
old mill as I saw it in June of 1853 when everything 
about it was new and when the resolute pioneer was 
hopeful of gathering a fortune from out of the primeval 
forests all around about, by manufacturing lumber in 
his ““Up and Down” saw-mill. His was a typical mill 
of that day. One of this kind had been built at 
Tumwater in 1847, two miles south of where the 
State capitol building now stands at Olympia. M. T. 
Simmons, a member of the first party of American 
settlers north of the Columbia River and consequently 
of the State of Washington was the reputed owner. 


LUMBER INDUSTRY 257 


It is known George Bush, a negro mulato man, who 
had crossed the Plains the same year Simmons did 
(1844) and had accompanied him to the Sound country, 
supplied the funds to aid in the enterprise. Bush 
undoubtedly was part owner, but under the laws 
then prevailing in this great free(?) country, having 
negro blood in his veins, could not hold property, sue 
or testify in court, or in any way enjoy the rights 
of citizenship. Bush had brought three thousand dol- 
lars in silver across the plains in his ox team wagon 
securely covered by a second or false bottom of the 
wagon bed. 

I saw this mill of Delin’s in operation in June of 
1853 upon my arrival at the head of the Sound in that 
year. 

Thomas M. Chambers built one of these “Up and 
Downs” on Steilacoom Creek, a mile north of the 
present great insane asylum where now 2,400 inmates 
are cared for. I think this was built the year of 
1847 or 48. Andrew Bird built one at the head of 
this same Creek where it issued out of the lake, a 
mile east of the asylum site; this in 1858. ‘Two stai- 
wart brothers named Sherwood built one probably in 
1852 on North Bay of Puget Sound about twenty miles 
northwest of Olympia; both these men stood six feet 
two inches in their stocking feet, well proportioncd 
giants not only in size but likewise in strength. 

Another of this same class was built at the mouth of 
Sequalitchew Creek, a few miles north of the mouth 
of the Nisqually river and nearby where the Hudson’s 
Bay Company built Fort Nisqually, in 1833. 

I have recorded the existence of these six mills 
because they were the forerunners of the great lum- 
ber industry of the State; neither of these would cut 
more than two hundred feet per hour; all were pro- 
pelled by water power and all went out of commission 
soon after the advent of steam power here and intro- 
duction of the circular saw. 

The pun or puzzle of reversal of the rule “that 
all that goes up must come down” is based on a fact 


258 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


though not sufficient to destroy the rule. Delin’s mill, 
it may be noticed, was built on tide lines, in fact 
the wheel was lower than a high tide level. The power, 
gradually lessened as the tide rose finally reached the 
vanishing point on the down stroke of the saw and 
hence had gone up and didn’t come down. 


Among the numerous industries shown is one among 
the leading lumber producing mills on Puget Sound, 
of which there are sixty-five so far listed. Each unit of 
these modern mills will cut ten thousand feet an hour, 
with some combinations to increase the output even to 
thirty thousand; the six “up-and-down” mills of early 
days, the reader will note, would not cut more than ten 
thousand feet in a twelve-hour day run, a maximum 
scarcely ever reached as often the saw wouldn’t go down 
in most of them without backing up to take a “run and 
jump at it.” 


Now the band saw has to an extent displaced the 
circular, and electric power, that of steam; the Good 
Lord only knows what next. 


I am not unmindful that the Hudson’s Bay Company 
established an “up-and-down” mill in the earlier days 
at Vancouver (1825 or 26) which was within the 
bounds of the State. This mill was established for a 
political and commercial purpose—to strive to estab- 
lish ownership of Great Britain north of the Columbia 
river and to exploit the fur business and incidentally 
the resources of the country. By this we are shown 
that these old fashioned primitive mills were not orig- 
inal models invented by the pioneers. 


Preceding the introduction of these mills and even 
afterward, the whip-saw was in use, with a log on a 
scaffold, a man in a pit to pull the saw down and one 
above to pull it up. I never tried this method of 
manufacturing lumber though did have experience with 
the “ups-and-downs”’. 


LUMBER INDUSTRY 259 


In prehistoric days a growth of giant cedars flour- 
ished in the Puget Sound basin—all dead now though 
seemingly destined never to decay. I have seen speci- 
mens of these near twenty feet in diameter; most of this 
class are fallen, many half submerged in earth, moss 
and vegetable growth, yet sound as a dollar. 


The free rift of this growth, beside the symmetrical 
body free from knots or blemish of any kind rendered 
it of extreme value to the pioneers. I knew one pioneer 
to build a good-sized three-room cabin out of one 
fallen giant, floor, sides of the cabin, partitions, roof 
—all and had, as he said, enough left to build his 
barn. The rift of this timber was miraculous. In 
the hands of an expert, slabs or flooring of long 
length could be split to vary very little from end to 
end, or side to side of width even to 380 inches and 
sometimes more. It came to be a pioneer saying 
that lumber truer to line could be split than some 
of the mills could cut. 


The Indians utilized this timber for constructing 
the “Old Man House’ five hundred feet long, frag- 
ments of which remained when I passed the spot in 
1853, in the skiff we built at Olympia. 


The Indians used this same timber in shaping their 
beautiful canoes out of the body of one of these giants; 
how they did it without measure or line is beyond 
my comprehension, as also how they navigated these 
at sea out of sight of land in their whaling expedi- 
tions is likewise just as mysterious; we know they did 
and that is about all we know about it. Some of these 
would easily carry fifty men and their luggage. I 
have seen and read an official account of one party 
remaining at sea five days attempting to tow a monster 
whale to port and finally compelled to abandon it. 


Billions upon billions of shingles have been manu- 
factured out of the cedar both of ancient and more 
recent growth that have acquired world wide fame 
and still the work goes merrily on. 


260 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


The article prepared by West Coast Lumbermen’s 
Association follows: 


THE LUMBER INDUSTRY OF THE NORTHWEST 


Forests of the Northwest contain the largest and 
finest growth of commercial timber in the world. 


The principal timbered area in the Northwest lies 
west of the Cascade mountains in Oregon, Washington 
and British Columbia. 


This timbered area bears four principal species 
—Douglas Fir, Sitka Spruce, Western Red Cedar and 
Western Hemlock. And the greatest of these is Doug- 
las Fir—or fir, as it is commonly called. 


Douglas Fir is the principal stock in trade of 
the local lumber industry. 


Douglas Fir produced the timbers that built the 
ships needed by the allied governments in the recent 
war emergency, and, with Sitka Spruce, supplied the 
supple beams that gave shape and strength to the 
army airplanes. 


The lumbering industry, which includes logging and 
sawmill operations, as well as the manufacture of fin- 
ished wood products, such as shingles, sash, doors, 
cooperage, wooden ships, furniture, and minor wood 
articles, is the biggest single industry in Oregon and 
Washington. It gives employment to nearly 60 per 
cent of the working population in the two states. 


This industry dates from the arrival of the first 
pioneers who brought with them the crude tools with 
which to convert the native trees into homes. Small 
sash sawmills soon were built on the banks of many 
little streams and then came steam-driven plants from 
which developed the modern electrically-operated lum- 
ber mill. 


Lumber manufacturing will be an important indus- 
try here for many generations. The supply of timber 


LUMBER INDUSTRY 261 


is almost inexhaustible. With an intelligent system 
of reforestration, such as now is being developed, it is 
possible that this supply will last indefinitely. 


It is hard to comprehend the enormous timber 
resources in these Northwestern states. Oregon and 
Washington contain one-third of all standing timber 
in the United States. 


Since 1905 Washington has produced more lumber 
annually than any state in the Union. 


One-fourth of all standing timber in the country 
is Douglas Fir, and 80 per cent of the Douglas Fir 
is in these two states. 


Figures do not mean much when dealing with such 
tremendous quantities, but the forest service reports 
an aggregate of 2,826,000,000,000 feet of standing tim- 
ber in the country, of which 547,000,000,000 feet are 
in Oregon and 395,500,000,000 feet in Washington. 


The entire Douglas Fir supply is 718,000,000,0060 
feet, of which Oregon has 342,400,000,000 and Washing- 
ton 233,300,000,000 feet. 


To give an idea of just what this means: It requires 
30,000 feet to load an ordinary freight car. If al} 
the timber were cut into lumber and loaded onto cars 
it would take 11,400,000 cars and 7,700,000 cars rses- 
pectively to haul away the Douglas Fir of Oregon and 
Washington. 


In 1919 the industry in Western Oregon and West- 
ern Washington produced, it is estimated, an aggregate 
of 6,300,000,000 feet, of which 84 per cent was fir, 
The cut in the two states east of the Cascades, con- 
sisting largely of Western pine, which species predom- 
inates there, was 890,000,000 feet. 


Just to go into history a trifle: Douglas Fir was 
discovered by Archibald Menzies at Nootka Sound, 
Vancouver Island, in 1792, during the voyage of 
Captain Vancouver, who first explored the waters of 
this region. 


262 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


The species was properly classified by David Doug- 
las, the Scotch botanist, who visited the Northwest 
in 1827. He took some of the seeds with him to 
Europe and planted them there. Later the species 
was named in his honor. The scientific name is 
Pseudotsuga Taxifolia. 


Sitka Spruce is secondary only to fir in its import- 
ance and is coming into increased commercial demand. 
It is the wood that made the airplane possible. It 
combines length and strength with light weight and 
resiliency. It is regarded as superior even to fir in 
forming the long wing beams of the modern airplane. 
It has many other commercial uses, such as interior 
finish, kitchen woodwork, sash, door, boats and boxes. 


Most of the sounding boards of modern pianos 
and phonographs are of spruce. 


Western hemlock grows intermingled with fir and for 
many commercial purposes is interchangeable with it. 
But not possessing the strength or size of fir it cannot 
be used for the same heavy structural purposes. Its 
bark is rich in tannin and is extensively employed for 
that purpose. 


Western Red Cedar trees, some of which grow to 
giant stature, are yielding from 5,500,000,000 to 
6,000,000,000 shingles every year. Shingle manufac- 
turing is an important branch of the lumber industry. 
“Rite Grade” shingles are a standard, nationally-adver- 
tised product and are marketed in every state of the 
Union. Next to fir, the red cedar is the largest tree 
of the Northwest. 


With the exception of the giant sequoias and red- 
woods of California, the Douglas Fir is the largest tree 
on the Pacific Coast. It ordinarily attains a height of 
from 175 feet to 200 feet and a diameter of from 
three to six feet. Frequently fir trees rise to 250 feet in 
height with diameters up to nine feet. Owing to its 
intolerance of shade the lower branches soon die and 


LUMBER INDUSTRY 263 


drop off, leaving one-half to two-thirds of the trunk 
clear and a large percentage of the wood free from 
knots. 


The foliage, when mature, is dark green. The 
cones are reddish-brown and from two to three inches 
long. The cones ripen in August and September, 
and while on the trees open to shed their seeds. 


The rate of growth of Douglas Fir varies greatly 
with environment. On the Coast it has reached 100 
feet in height and 20 to 24 inches in diameter in 50 
years. In the drier regions of the interior it may 
attain only 14 feet in height and three to four inches in 
diameter in the same length of time. 


In virgin forests of the Coast where Douglas Fir 
predominates, the stands usually run from 20,000 to 
50,000 board feet an acre, though frequently on better 
sites the yield exceeds 100,000 board feet. One instance 
is recorded where 5,000,000 board feet were cut from 
ten acres. Single mature trees contain from 2,000 to 
5,000 board feet, but sometimes exceed 10,000 feet. 


Douglas Fir is perhaps the healthiest coniferous 
tree in America. It does not suffer from insect pests 
or fungus diseases. The logs are remarkably sound, 
even those cut from old trees. 


Its green weight is about 3,300 pounds per 1,000 
board feet; but when the lumber is kiln dried its 
average weight approximates 2,500 pounds per 1,000 
feet. 


Tests made by the United States Forest Products 
Laboratories at Madison, Wis., show that fir is the 
strongest wood, for its weight, in North America. 
The large timbers that can be cut from these huge 
trees render it especially useful for ship building and 
heavy construction. It is also extremely valuable in 
the building trades, being used for beams, joists, 
heavy flooring, siding and for general purposes. One 
of its principal uses is in railroad construction, such 


264 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


as freight and passenger cars, ties, bridges, warehouse 
and other buildings. - 


Owing to its hardness fir is in heavy demand for 
flooring, for which purpose it generally is cut vertical 
grained. For interior finish it is recognized as one 
of the most beautiful American woods. On account 
of the distinct alternating rings of Spring and Summer 
wood, it presents, when cut “slash” grained, a most 
attractive appearance. Douglas Fir hardens with age, 
and when polished, is not readily marred or scratched, 
which quality renders it particularly useful for doors, 
panels, beams and other interior woodwork. It takes 
stain well and can, therefore, be given a variety of 
finishes. 


Because of its even texture, fir takes paints, 
oils, varnish and creosote to a decided advantage. It 
has been used successfully and extensively as a street 
paving block, giving most satisfaction in this capacity 
when creosoted. 


The wood is remarkably durable in contact with 
moisture or when exposed to the elements under trying 
conditions. 


Therefore it is in constant demand for piling and 
poles, masts, spars, mine timbers, highway bridges, 
silos, tanks, water pipes, cross arms, fencing, cooperage 
and boxes as well as scores of special and novel purposes. 


With development of foreign trade that is accom- 
panying restoration of ocean-going traffic Douglas fir 
will be sold in nearly every market of the globe. Before 
the war export markets absorbed only 9 per cent of the 
output of the Douglas fir mills. The rest of it was 
sold locally and in domestic markets. 


While the foreign market of the future is going to 
take a greater proportion of lumber produced in the 
Northwest the field right here at home offers equally 
promising opportunities. 


LUMBER INDUSTRY 265 


Heretofore Chicago represented the eastern edge 
of the territory in which Douglas Fir, Hemlock and 
Spruce were extensively sold. Less than 2 per cent 
of the entire output of the Northwest was sold in New 
York territory. The New York territory and the 
rest of the Atlantic seaboard bought most of their 
lumber from the South—Southern Pine. But the 
Southern Pine supply is being rapidly depleted. Doug- 
las Fir is taking its place. Douglas Fir is popular 
among lumber dealers and lumber users wherever it 
is known and is growing in popularity wherever it 
is being introduced. 


Within five or ten years Douglas Fir will be the 
principal commercial and structural wood marketed 
and used in the East as it now is in the West and 
Middle West. 


Douglas Fir heretofore has gone chiefly to Aus- 
tralia, South Africa, Mexico, the West Coasts of South 
and Central America and the Orient. Shipments also 
have been made to northern and eastern South America, 
and before the war were increasing to the United King- 
dom and other European points. The principal exports 
of Douglas Fir during the war period consisted of 
airplane stock, cantonment lumber and other material 
intended for use in direct war work. 


With restoration of normal trading conditions 
throughout, the manufacturers of Douglas Fir lumber 
are experiencing a steady and increasing demand for 
foreign business. 


CHAPTER XXXIV. 


MINING 


Mineral Deposits of Considerable Value—Smelting Ores Impor- 
tant Industry—Tacoma at the Center of That Industry— 
Mineral Ores in Northern Portion State—Lack of Transpor- 
tation Retards Development—Significance of Relation to 
Alaska—Community of Interests—Production of Great Terri- 
tory Will Be Handled Here—Copper Industry Promises to 
be Enormous—Will be Smelted in Washington—Iron Ores 
In Abundance—Summary From Census Report. 


The State of Washington has many advantages of 
location and resources to make it an assured center of 
industrial growth such as is dependent in no small 
measure upon metals. In addition to a liberal supply 
of valuable deposits within the borders of the common- 
wealth, its water gateways are terminals for direct 
transportation from some of the richest known mining 
regions by which ores can be brought economically to 
sites where abundant supplies of coal are available 
for fuel, and where tremendous waterpower can be 
developed to play a leading part in the metallurgy of 
the years immediately ahead. 


The industrial importance of such considerations is 
attested by the successful operation at Tacoma by one 
of the leading corporations in the mining world, of an 
immense smelter which smelts and refines one-twelfth 
of the copper output of the United States. It occupies 
a site, fifty-two acres in extent, and its immense con- 
erete stack, 575 feet high, the tallest in the world, 
stands as a landmark from the waters of Puget Sound 
by which its raw materials are brought from Alaska 
and the rest of the North American Pacific Coast, as 
well as large quantities from the mines of South Ameri- 


MINING 267 


ca. The smelter has a capacity of two thousand five 
hundred tons of ore daily, treating copper, silver and 
gold in the form either of ore or of concentrates. Ex- 
tensive wharves are maintained on the water front, 
with ore bunkers and automatic devices for unloading 
the cargoes. Two gigantic blast furnaces and a rever- 
batory furnace are in operation, and the converters to 
which the copper matte comes from these furnaces 
for final reduction have a capacity of 300 tons of blister 
copper daily. The electrolytic plant in which the cop- 
per is refined, and in which the gold and silver values 
are separated, has a capacity of 8,500 tons a month. 
Hydro-electric energy of 6,000 horsepower is installed 
at the plant, which is pronounced by Walter Harvey 
Weed in The Mines Hand Book, authority in its field, 
“one of the most important custom plants on the Pacific 
Coast, with progressive management and excellent met- 
allurgical practice.” 


Another considerable factor in the industry is the 
smelter of the Northport Smelting & Refining Com- 
pany, at Northport, Wash., which was blown in March 
7, 1916, to treat the lead ores from the district tribu- 
tary to Spokane. Its three lead furnaces have a daily 
capacity of 300 tons, and are supplemented by an elec- 
tric fume precipitator and a drossing plant. 


The following figures are taken from the U. S. 
Census Bureau’s Summary Concerning Washington 
Mining and Quarrying Operations for 1919: 


Total Value of Products: 


TMI. 20S 1A sea GON COU adic oy OVA SOO $10,537,556 
UE be A Nee ES AAR ab BALE UA UBER 13,329,129 


In addition to the primary operations of smelting 
the crude ores and concentrates, the Northwest offers, 
through its power possibilities and commercial location, 
exceptional opportunity for secondary undertakings 
along metallurgical lines, such as treating scrap mater- 
ials and refining various metals, including manufacture 


268 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


of special compounds, such as those used for printing, 
stereotyping and kindred industries. 


Within the State of Washington there has been 
steady development of properties yielding gold, silver, 
copper, lead and zinc. The mountain ranges attract 
alike the veteran prospector and the technically trained 
mining engineer. 


Quartz mines in the northern half of the state are 
the principal producers of gold, the Mount Baker dis- 
trict and the Republic field leading, while other pro- 
ducers of the yellow metal are found in Okanogan, 
Stevens, Chelan, Kittitas, Snohomish, King and Clallam 
Counties. 


Silver is produced principally in combination with 
gold, copper and lead. 


Copper, a metal which ranks industrially with iron 
in its importance, especially in view of water power 
development and construction of high-tension trans- 
mission lines from the streams to the manufacturing 
sites, is found widely distributed throughout the state, 
the mining districts of the Cascades and of northeastern 
Washington having been considerably explored. En- 
couraging outcrops of sulphide deposits, with chal- 
copyrite predominating, have been located on thous- 
ands of claims. Their development to the stage of 
bonanza producers must wait on transportation facili- 
ties that will insure economic handling to the reduction 
works, for in the copper world evolution has been to- 
ward treatment in great volume of comparatively low- 
class ores as a result of marked metallurgical progress. 


Until transportation systems have been installed to 
move the lower-grade yield to the smelters, shipments 
have been limited usually to the richer ores which can 
pay for freighting even under the handicap of remote 
location in the mountainous regions, leaving the other 
ore bodies in sight for future working. 


MINING 269 


The counties in which copper properties have been 
active are Snohomish, Stevens, Okanogan, Ferry, Pierce, 
Skamania and Asotin, with exploitation also in Chelan, 
Skagit, Whatcom, Pend Oreille and others. The state’s 
yield, even under the system of production necessarily 
limited to selection only of the higher-grade ores, has 
passed the mark of 2,500,000 pounds annually. 


Lead has been mined in considerable quantities, with 
the foremost properties located in the northeastern part 
of the state, the production in pounds more than doub- 
ling the figures for copper. The smelter at Northport 
has been a factor in encouragement of larger produc- 
tion. Zine also has attractive possibilities with the 
perfection of new methods of treatment, electricity 
having been utilized with marked success in its refining. 


Other metallic products include arsenic, a by-product 
of the Tacoma smelter from arsenopyrite found in sev- 
eral of the mining camps; antimony; tungsten; and 
molybdenite. Some mercury ore has been located, and 
traces of tin have been found in the vicinity of Spokane. 


Production of these minor metals was stimulated 
during the war by the demand for them as alloys in 
manufacture of ordnance steel. Cessation of hostilities 
ended the urgent call, but the future is one of large 
possibilities for these materials as new developments 
are effected in the iron and steel industry. They are 
destined to command constant and growing considera- 
tion in experiments and accomplishments along new 
lines of electro-chemistry and electro-metallurgy. 


Of foremost significance in the future of the State 
as a center of metallic importance is its relation to 
Alaska, which keeps in touch with America through the 
ports of the Evergreen State. The commonwealth and 
the territory have maintained a community of inter- 
ests, of enterprises, of endeavors and of ideals through- 
out the entire period of Alaskan development. The 
gold which attracted the first great rush to the north- 
ern wonderland has been brought out by this route, the 


270 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


assay office in Seattle having received a quarter of a 
billion of dollars from the placer beds and lodes of 
the fabulously rich region. 


The wide distribution of the placers, which have 
been worked by pan or dredge, has warranted exten- 
sive undertaking of quartz mining. Among the large 
undertakings have been those of the Treadwell Com- 
pany, which ran its levels, stopes and drifts out under 
the ocean, until later flooding of some galleries forced 
their abandonment; the Alaska-Gastineau and Alaska- 
Juneau, with mining and milling capacity of more than 
9,000 tons daily at the lowest costs ever attained in 
the industry. 


Alaska is generally recognized as one of the world’s 
great copper fields, production having reached a big 
scale in three widely separated belts—Prince of Wales 
Island in the Southeast, Prince William Sound in South- 
ern Alaska, and Chitina in the Copper River interior. 
In the latter district the great Kennecott Mine has at- 
tained fourth rank among the greatest producers of the 
world, with an annual output in excess of 120,000,000 
pounds, leading all competitors in low cost, between 65 
and 70 per cent of the figure for the second in the list. 


Other mineral deposits of the northern territory 
include silver, found with the copper and gold in quartz 
veins, iron, tin, antimony, tungsten, lead, graphite, cin- 
nabar, platinum and molybdenum, besides marble, gyp- 
sum, barytes, coal and oil. 


The iron deposits located include magnetite in south- 
eastern Alaska, hematite on the Seward peninsula, and 
chrome ore on Kenai peninsula. These deposits are 
destined to play a big part in the promotion of the iron 
and steel industry in the manufacturing centers of 
Washington, just as copper has done with the develop- 
ment of smelting at Tacoma. They are available by 
cheap and safe deep-water transportation from the 
field to the reduction works, where advantages can be 
improved in the way of ample fuel and power supplies. 


MINING 2T1 


Reciprocally the development of the natural re- 
sources through exploitation and constructive utiliza- 
tion of the raw materials will contribute to the common 
prosperity of Washington. Employment and oppor- 
tunity will be provided for thousands who will be po- 
tential customers of the industries that will be based 
upon the products of their toil and enterprise. New 
and advancing stages of prosperity will be reached 
through progressive undertakings, that are, in the last 
analysis, but the spirit that inspired the first pioneers, 
maintained in ever-expanding application. 


Note.—I am indebted to the painstaking investi- 
gation made by Mr. Maurice FitzGerald for the com- 
pleteness of the information contained in this chapter 
on mining.—E. M. 


CHAPTER XXXV. 


COAL 


Importance of Coal in Economic Advancement—Only Valuable 
Veins On Coast—Becoming More Important Than Ever— 
First Discovery—A Stimulant To R. R. Building—F ound 
East and West of Cascade Range—Available Supply—Prin- 
cipal Competitor—Economic Asset of Increasing Value— 
Alaska Coal Fields Complementary to Those of Washington. 


One of the greatest economic developments of all 
history has been the gigantic growth and expansion of 
the iron and steel industry. Side by side with this 
have gone the coal-mining enterprises to furnish the 
supply of fuel indispensable for operation of the great 
furnaces that have made America the leader in steel. 
In fact, industrially the period that reached its climax 
in the organization of the corporation heralded as the. 
greatest ever known when it took over the Carnegie 
and other holdings, is almost as intrinsically an age of 
coal as an age of steel. The importance of coal under 
present economic conditions is attested by the prom- 
inence which this item has commanded in the nego- 
tiations following the world war, and its inclusion 
among the leading commodities on the list of repara- 
tions. 


Our own Puget Sound region is vitally interested 
in this phase of industry, for here are found prac- 
tically the only extensive commercial coal veins of the 
Pacific Coast of the United States. Reference is made 
elsewhere to the possibilities of the future in the way 
of hydro-electric heat as well as power for developing 
industries; but in the realms of metallurgy and navi- 
gation this must be largely an evolution through experi- 


COAL 273 


ment for a long time to come, and immediate con- 
sideration of installing furnaces on the Pacific Coast to 
turn out the metals which its mines and those of the 
hinterland can furnish will be swayed largely by the 
demonstrated fact of an ample coal supply close at hand. 


Attention is to turn all the more to this resource 
as the supply of fuel oil appears to be reaching ex- 
haustion through the growing demand for gasoline and 
naptha, calling for advanced methods of refining that 
will lessen the available amount of crude petroleum 
which for a time seemed destined to prove destructive 
competition for the coal industry on the coast. As 
this supply dwindles, the installation of new processes 
for using pulverized coal, with all the advantages 
claimed especially for crude oil, will increase the im- 
portance of the carboniferous veins, and will figure 
especially in smelter furnaces. It makes stoking al- 
most automatic, and as easily controlled and regulated 
as the oil burners. 


In 1851 a vein of coal was discovered under what 
is the present site of the city of Bellingham by a repre- 
sentative of the Hudson’s Bay Company, who was 
hunting timber for that corporation. A mine was 
opened, and from it were shipped the first cargoes 
from Puget Sound to San Francisco. The bed of coal 
was followed out under the waters of the Sound from 
the shaft. The property was a producer for a quarter 
of a century; then it became flooded following a fire. 
The annual coal output of Whatcom County then ran 
between 5,000 and 6,000 tons for many years, until 
1919, when new properties were uncovered, one within 
the city limits of Bellingham, which has a capacity of 
400 to 500 tons a day at its present stage of develop- 
ment. 


In Washington, however, coal means something more 
than an important economic resource; it is a tradition 
tied up with the history of pioneer struggles and co- 
operation in upbuilding of civic enterprise. One of the 


274 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


first displays of the conquering and accomplishing 
“Pioneer Spirit” was given in the early development of 
the coal mines at Seattle. 


The history of the early companies and undertak- 
ings is told vividly in his history of Seattle by Clarence 
B. Bagley, who devotes a special chapter to coal mining 
with interesting details and authoritative records. 


The first settlers soon realized that while manufac- 
ture of lumber was to be the first development in point 
of time and importance, this was an undertaking that 
should be supplemented by the development of all other 
potential resources in order to assure an expanding 
and permanent prosperity for the Puget Sound region. 
Coal attracted attention through the discovery by D. 
M. Bigelow of outcroppings in King County on the 
Black River, almost at Seattle’s doors, in 1853. Lignite 
outcroppings worked in 1848 on the Cowlitz River are 
recorded. The first early shipment to other markets 
was that from the Black River veins to San Francisco, 
where a schooner load found ready sale, and led to a 
series of options by California capitalists, who were 
later suspected by the Washington pioneers of utilizing 
this plan for retarding development of the Puget Sound 
mines in competition with some small properties which 
they were trying to open on San Francisco Bay. 


At any rate the proposition lay dormant for more 
than a decade; then a local company was formed to 
work the Coal Creek deposits, bringing the coal to 
Seattle by barges on the Black River. This was in 
1865-66, and four years later the reorganized company 
adopted a plan of loading coal on cars at the mine, 
transporting them on tramways that alternated with 
car-carrying barges on Lake Washington and Lake 
Union; bringing the cars finally to a trestle over deep 
water from which they could be discharged directly 
into the waiting ships. 


The search for new deposits naturally extended to 
other parts of the Puget Sound country, Pierce and 


COAL 275 


Kittitas Counties occupying a prominent place in the 
industry. It is reported that the existence of veins 
on the Puyallup River in Pierce County, suspected from 
the finding of black particles, was confirmed when a 
huge cottonwood tree, dislodged during a flood, came 
floating down the river with a chunk of coal clinging 
to its roots. The coal-bearing area of this county ex- 
tends from north to south, the northern part being 
designated by the geological survey as the Wilkeson- 
Carbonado field, and the southern as the Puyallup- 
Ashford field. The Pierce County coals are found 
especially adapted for coking, the smelters furnishing 
an available market for this product. 


Kittitas County, east of the Cascade range of moun- 
tains, furnishes from the Roslyn field about half the 
present output of the state. The coal beds extend from 
Cle Elum to Beekman, about 2,000,000 tons a year 
being shipped through the former city, which is the 
gateway of the field. The city of Roslyn is built dir- 
ectly over two mines, which have miles of tunnels 
running beneath its lots and streets. 


These pioneer steps marked the beginning of the 
industry in Western Washington which has grown to 
a point where a yearly output of more than 4,000,000 
tons has been reached, with four transcontinental lines 
and a coast railroad to serve as distributors, and great 
bunkers on the waterfronts of Seattle and Tacoma 
running up to a capacity for loading into vessels, equal 
to all demands. 


Of the available coal supply the state geologist, Dean 
Henry Landes, of the University of Washington, says: 


The coal fields of Washington are among the best to 
be found in the northwest. They lie principally in 
King, Kittitas, Pierce, Lewis, Thurston and Whatcom 
Counties. Nearly all of the coal areas are served by 
railroad lines, so that ready transportation is assured. 
The coal varies from a lignite through the various 
grades of bituminous coal. Prior to this time the prin- 


276 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


cipal demand has been for the bituminous coals, lignite 
being mined in a lesser degree. With the growing use 
of pulverized coal for steaming purposes, it is con- 
fidently expected that the lignite coals will be in far 
greater demand. As a rule the coals of Washington 
are of easy ignition, produce a hot flame and burn 
very freely. They have a small amount of sulphur 
and a moderate quantity of ash and water. The beds 
as a rule are thick and several of them are frequently 
mined at the same place. 


“The principal foreign competitor of coal is oil, 
from California and elsewhere. The chief local com- 
petitor of coal for industrial purposes is the abundant 
water power which the state affords. At the present 
time, the price of oil is rising rapidly and many in- 
dustrial plants are now planning to use coal for fuel. 
It is probable that the output of coal will be greatly 
increased if the prices of oil continue to rise and it 
becomes increasingly difficult to obtain. The coals of 
Washington are quite satisfactory for all fuel pur- 
poses. There are large reserves of this fuel as yet 
untouched. There is no question but what any indus- 
try depending upon coal will be able to find in the 
coal fields of this state an ample supply for a great 
many years.” 


Recent developments have indicated the speedy elim- 
ination of fuel oil as a practical competitor, as is indi- 
cated by Dean Landes. In the interim that may be 
expected to elapse before the fullest development of 
water power for heating as well as power purposes, 
the coal veins of Washington may be expected to prove 
an economic asset of increasing importance, with a 
prosperity that will be a monument to the foresight 
of the pioneers who first undertook their development, 
and co-operated to secure for them a share of the 
world’s markets. 


Incidentally the coal fields of Alaska may be con- 
sidered as complementary to those of Washington, as 


COAL 277 


Puget Sound is the nearest and the natural gateway 
for that territory of as yet undeveloped resources. 
Federal action has been taken toward opening the 
great deposits of the north, with coaling stations on 
the coast that will be an important consideration for 
the merchant marine plying the routes from Puget 
Sound to the Orient. The combination promises to 
the Pacific Northwest the domination of the fuel situa- 
tion on the Pacific for many years. 


CHAPTER XXXVI. 


FISHERIES 


Author Sees Salmon First Time—Fish Story—Immense School— 
First Attempt Commercializing Salmon—Art of Canning 
Unknown—Drying and Pounding By Natives—First Cannery 
Established on Columbia River—Business Grown to Huge 
Proportions—Large Army of Employers—Note of Warning 
Sounded—Fisheries Being Depleted—Remedial Legislation 
Needed—Isaac Walton’s Disciples Need Have No Fears— 
Hatcheries of Great Benefit. 


I first saw a salmon in 1852 at “Salmon Falls” of 
Snake River, near seven hundred miles from the sea. 
These falls defied the fishes’ farther-up-stream prog- 
ress; hence the name, and hence the vast numbers in 
the waters; go farther up the river way they could 
not; go back they would not, but lingered, until find- 
ing a riffle upon which to spawn; then having fulfilled 
their destiny, they died. 


The year following, in June of 1853, when I pro- 
cured a fat, fine specimen, probably a Chinook or steel- 
head, just caught by an Indian trolling in the deep 
sea-water of Commencement Bay—now the waterfront 
of the great City of Tacoma, then a solitude, except 
for the native tribes—and put it in the pan and soon 
compelled to empty part of the fat and afterwards 
ate it, I thought it was the most delectable morsel of 
food I had ever tasted. I think so yet. The salmon, 
to my mind, is the “King of Fish.” While there is a 
great field here for the sportsman, it is of the com- 
mercial value I will write in greater part. 


In early days there seemed to be an inexhaustible 
supply of fish. I quote from my own writing twenty 
years ago, which although once in print, will be just as 


FISHERIES 279 


fresh reading for the present as for the past. “But 
all such incidents must have an end, and so the time 
came when we broke camp and pulled for the head 
of Whidby’s Island, a few miles off to the northwest.”’ 


And now I have a fish story to tell. I have always 
been shy of telling it, lest some smart one should up 
and say I was just telling a yarn and drawing on my 
imagination, but “Honor bright’? I am not. But to be 
sure of credence, I will print the following telegrams 
recently received, which, as it is printed in a news- 
paper, must be true: 


“Nanaimo, B. C., Friday, Jan. 29, 1853.—Another 
tremendous destruction of herring occurred on the 
shores of Protection Island a day or two ago in exactly 
the same way as took place near Departure Bay about 
three weeks ago, and today the entire atmosphere of 
the city carries the nauseous smell of thousands upon 
thousands of tons of decaying fish, which threatens an 
epidemic of sickness. 


“The dead fish now cover the shores of Protection 
Island continuously for three miles to a depth ranging 
all the way from fifteen inches to three feet. The air 
is black with sea-gulls. So thick have the fish been 
at times that were a fishing boat caught in the channel 
while a shoal of herring was passing, the rush of 
fish would literally lift the boat out of the water.” 


“We had not proceeded far before we heard a dull 
sound like that often heard from the tide-rips where 
the current meets and disturbs the waters as in a 
boiling caldron. But as we approached the disturb- 
ance, we found it was different from anything we had 
seen or heard before. As we rested on our oars, we 
could see that the disturbance was moving up toward 
us, and that it extended as far as we could see in 
the direction we were going. The sound had in- 
ereased and become like the roar of a heavy rainfall, 
or hailstorm in water, and we became aware that it 
was a vast school of fish moving south, while millions 


280 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


were seemingly dancing on the surface of the water and 
leaping in the air. We could sensibly feel them striking 
against the boat in such vast numbers as to fairly 
move it as we lay at ease. The leap in the air was 
so high as to suggest tipping the boat to catch some as 
they fell back, and sure enough, here and there one 
would leap into the boat. We soon discovered some 
Indians following the school, who quickly loaded their 
canoe by using a barbed pole as a paddle and throwing 
the impaled fish into their canoes in surprising numbers. 
We soon obtained all we wanted by an improvised net.” 


At the headwaters of a short creek emptying into 
the Puyallup River, which in turn in a few miles 
poured its accumulated water into the tide water of 
Puget Sound, I have seen the salmon so numerous on 
the shoal water of the channel as to literally touch 
each other. It was utterly impossible to wade across 
without touching the fish. At certain seasons I have 
sent my team, accompanied by two men armed with 
pitchforks, to load up from the riffle for fertilizing the 
hop fields, where brick blocks of the City of Puyallup 
now occupy the space. 


We all thought, like many farmers thought of their 
lands, that the soil was inexhaustible, so the belief was 
prevalent that the supply of fish would continue for- 
ever. The history of the salmon fishery has proven the 
fallacy of this belief. 


In the year 1833, the Puget Sound Agricultural 
Company, an English corporation—a decoy of the real 
interest, the Hudson’s Bay Company, with headquarters 
in London, built Fort Nisqually, a point the reader 
will more ready locate in mind, by saying it was about 
equi-distant between where Tacoma and Olympia have 
subsequently been built, and near the east shore line 
of Puget Sound. The first commercial salmon fishing 
in the state dates from this Company’s effort in salting 
salmon and shipping to distant parts. About the same 
date, an intrepid pioneer, Samuel J. Wyeth, attempted 


FISHERIES 281 


to establish the business on the Columbia River, but 
failed in the undertaking. 


At this early date the art of preserving salmon by 
canning was unknown. The Indians at The Dalles of 
the Columbia from prehistoric times practiced a process 
to preserve the salmon without salt or can, by the 
manufacture of pemmican. The process consisted in 
first removing the bones, drying the fish, then pound- 
ing up fine and packing solid in baskets or bales of 
grass matting. The process is particularly described by 
Lewis and Clark in their journal, as they passed The 
Dalles of the Columbia, October, 1805. The immense 
quantity of this product is indicated by this quota- 
tion taken from the diary of the Lewis and Clark Ex- 
pedition: 


“On which there were such quantities of fish 
that we counted twenty stacks of dried and pounded 
salmon—twelve of these baskets, each of which con- 
tains from ninety to a hundred pounds, form a stack, 
which is now left exposed until sent to market. The 
fish thus preserved are kept sound and sweet for sev- 
eral years. We observed, both near the ledges and on 
the rocks in the river, great numbers of stacks of these 
pounded fish.” 


Washington Irving, in his “Astoria,” commenting 
upon this report, says: 


“Here is the great fishing place of the Columbia. 
In the spring of the year, when the water is high, the 
salmon ascend the river in incredible numbers. As they 
pass through this narrow strait, the Indians, standing 
on the rocks or on the end of wooden stages projecting 
from the banks, scoop them up with small nets distended 
on hoops and attached to long handles, and cast them 
on the shore. 


“They are then cured and packed in a peculiar man- 
ner. After having been opened and disemboweled, they 
are exposed to the sun on scaffolds erected on the river 


282 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


banks. When sufficiently dry, they are pounded fine 
between two stones, pressed into the smallest compass, 
and packed in baskets or bales of grass matting, about 
two feet long and one in diameter, lined with the 
cured skin of a salmon. The top is likewise covered 
with fish skins, secured by cords passing through holes 
in the edge of the basket. Packages are then made, 
each containing twelve of these bales, seven at the 
bottom, five at the top, pressed close to each other, 
with the corded side upward, wrapped in mats and 
corded. These are placed in dry situations, and again 
covered with matting. Each of these packages con- 
tains from ninety to a hundred pounds of dried fish, 
which in this state will keep sound for several years. 


“We have given this process at some length, as fur- 
nished by the first explorers, because it marks a prac- 
ticed ingenuity in preparing articles of traffic for a 
market, seldom seen among our aborigines. For like 
reason, we would make special mention of the village 
of Wishram, at the head of the Long Narrows, as being 
a solitary instance of an aboriginal trading mart, or 
emporium. Here the salmon caught in the neighbor- 
ing rapids were ‘Warehoused’ to await customers. 
Hither the tribes from the mouth of the Columbia re- 
paired with the fish of the seacoast, the roots, berries, 
and especially the wappatoo, gathered in the lower 
parts of the river, together with goods and trinkets 
obtained from the ships which casually visit the coast. 
Hither also the tribes from the Rocky Mountains 
brought down horses, beargrass, quamash, and other 
commodities of the interior. The merchant fishermen 
at the falls acted as middlemen or factors, and passed 
the objects of traffic, as it were, cross-handed; trading 
away part of the wares received from the mountain 
tribes to those of the rivers and plains and vice versa; 
their packages of pounded salmon entered largely into 
the system of barter, and being carried off in opposite 
directions, found their way to the savage hunting camps 


FISHERIES 283 


far in the interior and to the casual white traders 
who touched upon the Coast.” 


I visited this ‘mart of trade,’”’ now a deserted vil- 
lage, during the year of 1910, and doubt not that there 
had been an immense traffic of this prepared salmon 
in early days. <A station on the line of the Great 
Northern railroad under a different name “Spedis” now 
occupies the site. An effort to restore the original 
name “Wishram” failed because of the lack of interest 
in pioneer days by the authorities of the railroad com- 
pany. 


In 1861, six hundred barrels of salmon packed in 
salt at Oak Point on the Columbia River, seems to have 
been the first successful venture in the state. Five 
years later, William Hume established the first cannery 
on the northern coast at Eagle Cliff, on the Columbia 
River, which is in this state. From this modest be- 
ginning of packing—4,000 cans the first season—the 
great business of canning salmon has sprung, until 
now the number of cases on the coast has totalled past 
the three hundred million mark. 


The industry that followed has had its “ups and 
downs;” that is, large fortunes have been made and 
lost, but the world has wonderfully profited by the 
work of this pioneer demonstrating the possibility of 
this method, which, of course, has been greatly im- 
proved over the crude way. The principle, however, 
has remained the same. 


I visited Mr. Hume’s cannery four years later, 
1870, to collect data for the work ‘Washington Terri- 
tory West of the Cascade Mountains,’ which in fac- 
simile form is reproduced under this cover. 


L. H. Darwin, the Fish Commissioner of the State, 
reports that in the last thirty years there has been 
taken from the waters of the state nearly $300,000,000 
worth of salmon, and that during the biennium (1918- 
1920) just closed, the catch of salmon reported by the 


284 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


fishermen was 27,741,295, of a value as they came from 
the water of over fifteen million dollars, and when pre- 
pared ready for the market in cans, barrels, or frozen, 
nearer thirty millions. 


Mr. Darwin sounds a note of warning in these 
words: “No honest person, familiar with the facts, 
will attempt to deny that the fisheries of the State of 
Washington are being depleted,” and points to the 
remedy in more efficient laws to prevent over-fishing 
and the taking of immature salmon. 


Instead of a few hundred fishermen engaged seventy 
years ago, now there is an army approximating fifty 
to sixty thousand in this state alone, either as fisher- 
men or in preserving or marketing the product. 


Instead of one struggling cannery with a capacity of 
a few thousand cases in a season’s catch we find eighty, 
with a capacity of over two million cases annually, of 
48 pounds each. 


A summary of the canned salmon pack, 1920, of 
the Pacific Coast as reported by the ‘Pacific Fisher- 
man,” published at Seattle, follows: 


A Leask eli ie Ste 0h ian see ec Bere la aan ary 4,395,937 cases 
PU Geb SOUT Wee ee forbes ay aa Te 166,520 cases 
Columbia WRivere rice ui ers 481,545 cases 
British yGolumbiait es ey, eee 1,187,616 cases 


These figures show a marked falling off of the 
product from previous years, not the same proportion 
in all localities or all species, but sufficiently noticeable 
to call out from the authority quoted the caution: ‘There 
is no indication that this shortage was due to over- 
fishing and it can only be attributed to unfavorable 
conditions beyond the knowledge of man; but great 
caution will no doubt be necessary to prevent the tem- 
porary shortage from becoming permanent.” 


The lamentable fact is, our fisheries have been ex- 
ploited to the near danger point of ruin—in consider- 


FISHERIES 285 


able part by a foreign element whose only interest is 
an immediate gain without care for the far reaching 
injury and eventual destruction of the industry. 


Energetic efforts of the State authorities have been 
made to increase the production by establishing hatch- 
eries in various vantage points. Unless more stringent 
laws governing this great asset are enacted, we will 
have reached the peak of production and permanently 
started on the down grade. 


Of trout there is a more cheerful outlook. The 
disciples of Isaac Walton need have no fear that there 
will not be an abundant supply in the future as in the 
past. 


The State Fish Commissioner in recent years utilized 
the extensive salmon hatcheries to replenish the supply 
of trout, culminating in the production and wide dis- 
tribution of 20,239,507 eggs during the season of 
1918, reaching each of the thirty-nine counties of fhe 
State; by adding what here is known as _ steelhead 
salmon and also as the silver trout, which is a land- 
locked sockeye salmon, the sum of trout eggs distri- 
buted will reach the enormous total of 32,000,000 during 
the one year. 


CHAPTER XXXVII. 


TRADE AND SHIPPING 


From Early Settlement Shipping Trade Important—California 
Furnished a Market—Square Timbers and Piles in Demand 
—Then Surplus Agricultural Products—Trade With The 
Orient Growing—Domestic Trade Kept Pace With Foreign— 
Panama Canal Increased Trade Volume—In Pioneer Days 
Water Transportation Only Available—Abundance of Tim- 
ber Induced Ship Building—Gigantic Ships Ply to Every 
Continent—Flags of All Nations Will be Seen Here. 


From early days of Washington’s settlement its 
shipping trade has been an important item of its 
industrial life. The pioneers found conditions awaiting 
which made their undertakings somewhat different 
from those of the first settlers who ventured west from 
the Atlantic to conquer the wilderness of the inland 
valleys. The rush to the California gold fields created 
markets for products of which a supply was found in 
Western Washington as the territory came to be known 
after its creation from Oregon territory. Almost from 
the time the first parties established themselves along 
the waters of the Sound they found demand for these 
products and lumber-carrying vessels plying along the 
coast to transport them. 


At first hewed square timbers and piles opened 
a field for private enterprise. No questions were asked 
and public land was invaded without hindrance; even 
cordwood became quite an item to ship to the San 
Francisco market and served well to fill odd corners 
in the ship’s hold. Ship’s knees became a favorite 
article of industry and was supplied to the full extent 
of market demands; hand made shingles ditto; hazel 
hoops; barrel staves, all contributed to the aggregate. 


TRADE AND SHIPPING 287 


It would seem incredible the bulk of these articles 
supplied by the comparatively few pioneers. The old 
story of “Hoop poles and pumpkin” of the early middle 
west was duplicated here (minus the pumpkins). The 
poles were cut on the claim of the pioneer or adjacent 
public land, split and shaved under shelter and often 
in the night, all of which could be done at home. The 
same may be said for the hand-made shingles. For 
both of these, there seemed to be an unlimited demand 
and ample shipping room in the numerous vessels seek- 
ing cargoes of lumber and piles. 


A few years later the pioneer farmers produced a 
surplus of grain and vegetables that found ready market, 
supplemented by beef (to Victoria), mutton, wool, oil 
and finally hops. Of this last article twenty million 
dollars worth was shipped from the territory before 
statehood was acquired. 


While these articles of trade were not of great 
value according to their bulk, or large in quantity, 
yet the aggregate constituted a substantial source of 
revenue to the vanguard of settlements. 


Lumber shipments soon assumed quite large pro- 
portions but that interest, to a great extent centered 
in companies with headquarters in San Francisco and 
out of touch with the scattered home builders of the 
new territory. 


Until their farms were opened, from which a sur- 
plus could be produced, the pioneers often were com- 
pelled to join with the majority to provide ready money 
for pressing present needs either in the mills or 
logging camps or some enterprise of their own as a 
Side issue. 


And so all in all, the “pickups” of the beginning 
of trade forecasted what would follow. While from a few 
thousand dollars a year as at first to over two hundred 
million dollars per annum as I write is a vast stride, 
yet’ it may be said the pioneers felt as much pride 


288 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


in their work as the millionaires of today enjoy in 
their great achievements. 


The coming of the transcontinental railroads gave 
new impetus to trade by establishing the ports of the 
state as gateways to the transpacific countries, and to 
Alaska when the lure of gold opened that territory to 
its first big tide of immigration. Later the opening of 
the isthmian canal across Panama brought a new 
impetus to water transportation between the Atlantic 
and the Pacific, with considerations of distance and 
sailing time as considerations for giving the Washington 
ports preference over any others in the United States. 


This advantage is one to be demonstrated by meas- 
urements across the Pacific on a globe, rather than on 
a Mercator projection map; on the latter the plane 
surface effects an exaggeration of distance in the north- 
ern latitude. On the globe a string stretched from a 
Washington port to the ports of the Orient will form 
what is called the “great circle’ route, passing in a 
practically straight line past the Aleutian islands, 
although on a flat map it would appear to run north- 
west and then southwest in a curve because of the 
distortion due to arbitrary drafting of the lines of 
latitude and longitude. 


From Puget Sound to Yokohama this route is 271 
miles shorter than the most direct way from the near- 
est of California ports, to Vladivostok 203 miles 
shorter, a saving in time of one to two days, accord- 
ing to the speed of the vessel. 


This is bound to prove a weighty consideration in 
the future of the merchant marine with the keen com- 
petition that is indicated in coming years. The saving 
in time will result in more trips annually, with increased 
earnings made possible, besides savings in fuel, crew’s 
wages and maintenance for each trip. In addition to 
this the Washington ports, through public establishment 
of great terminals, equipped with the finest mechanical 
devices known for speedy discharge of cargo and loading 


TRADE AND SHIPPING 289 


of outward bound commodities, have lowered the time 
of the steamers in port, making a quick turn around 
a possibility for further increasing the service of trans- 
portation. Seattle, Tacoma, Everett and Bellingham 
already have public port properties operated by elective 
commissions, as have the Grays Harbor terminals. The 
Port of Seattle is now operating the largest commercial 
pier in the world, half a mile long and 367 feet wide, 
with one almost equally as large alongside. They are 
devised especially for the handling of Oriental trade, 
with terminals for passenger lines plying across the 
Pacific, and with equipment for handling heavy freight 
expeditiously. The port has other docks and ware- 
houses along the waterfront for handling and storing 
special commodities that figure in its commerce. 


Tacoma has adopted a comprehensive plan for devel- 
opment of its port, to give five miles of berthing space 
along a unified system of wharves and warehouses, with 
1200 foot piers alongside deep waterways. The centrally 
located tract that is under improvement has a deep-water 
frontage of three thousand feet and a depth of four 
thousand five hundred feet. The mechanical equipment 
will be adapted especially to handling lumber and other 
heavy commodities of export. 


Everett and Bellingham have voted for the establish- 
ment of port commissions and development of properties, 
and the plans proved by experience in the other ports will 
be generally followed, with such modifications as may be 
needed to meet the local conditions of topography. 


On the Pacific coast proper, Grays Harbor and Wil- 
lapa Harbor are points of huge traffic, especially in lum- 
ber and fish shipments. 


Export and import trade of the Washington customs 
district, which includes all the ports of the state, reached 
its high water mark during the war, when the New York 
district was the only one to exceed it. The advantageous 
location for transpacific trade was demonstrated beyond 
argument by the fact that more than fifty per cent of 


290 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


all the commerce from the entire Pacific coast of the 
United States passed through this gateway. The total 
figure fell only a little below six hundred million dollars 
for foreign imports and exports, and in this was not 
included the receipt of raw silk and other commodities 
received in bond for collection of customs at the point of 
release in the east; this amounted to an additional 
$175,000,000 in round numbers. 


Among the principal items of import are raw silk and 
furs from the Orient, vegetable oils, for which there is 
a heavy demand as ingredients in soaps and edible prod- 
ucts, crude rubber and ores. Articles leading in the 
export figures are cotton and cotton goods, iron, steel 
and machinery, lumber, flour, wheat, and fruits. 


Lumber, wheat products and fruits are produced in 
Washington, but the other manufactured products come 
to this gateway by rail from industrial centers of the 
east, the raw material in many instances having been 
imported by the same route, involving the economic loss 
of double transportation from tidewater and back. Log- 
ical consideration of what this means is a matter that 
is being emphasized in urging location of industries in 
Washington, where there is unlimited power and ideal 
climatic conditions for iron and steel mills, textile estab- 
lishments, rubber making, soap manufacture and other 
undertakings that utilize vegetable oils, furniture plants 
to work into the finished products the native lumber of 
Washington and the rare hardwoods of the Transpacific 
tropics. 


The commercial figures of peak days during the war 
are regarded as abnormal with some reaction toward old 
conditions and return to old channels of trade. But it 
is reasonable to attribute the decline in figures more 
to unsettled conditions abroad, the industrial depression 
of Japan, the chaos in Siberia, and the unfavorable 
agricultural conditions of a couple of years in China. 
When normal conditions are restored in these countries 
the potential market for American goods, to be ex- 
change for the raw materials produced by these coun- 


TRADE AND SHIPPING 291 


tries in unlimited quantities, will eventually assure a 
commerce beyond any figures yet attained, and it is for 
this future that the Washington ports are building. 


Domestic trade from this region has kept pace with 
the foreign. From the time of the first shipments made 
by mills and fisheries, the coastwise traffic has been con- 
stant. In addition the products of Alaska have come by 
water shipment through Washington, the trade amount- 
ing to more than $100,000,000 yearly even under con- 
ditions that have handicapped the development of the 
territory because of federal bureau control and conflicts 
without a unified policy. With adoption of a program 
that will insure a stable citizenry in Alaska, the domestic 
trade in and out of its principal centers will rival the 
aggregates for foreign shipments over the Washington 
docks. 


To European ports, and to the markets along the 
American Atlantic coast the Panama Canal is a contribut- 
ing cause in a growing commerce. Within the last year 
innovations have been established in the way of refrig- 
erated space on shipboard for carrying fresh fruits from 
the orchards of Yakima and Wenatchee and the Puget 
Sound country to New York and London by direct lines. 
Feasibility has ;been demonstrated to a degree that 
seems to insure continuance and to work largely toward 
building up a new prosperity for the Washington horti- 
culturist. Salmon and other fish products, lumber, grain, 
fiour and other food products of the northwest for which 
there is crying need on both coasts of the Atlantic during 
days of reconstruction are available for cargoes in quan- 
tities which have led to establishment within the past 
few months of regular service by many of the strongest 
and best known shipping lines of the world. 


It is inevitable that new manufacturing industries 
will spring up and grow rapidly within the next few 
years, adding their products to the volume of trade 
through the ports of Puget Sound and the harbors on the 
Pacific. There is reason to predict that Washington, 
with a location analogous to that of Great Britain on 


292 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


the Atlantic, with even more favorable climate than Eng- 
land has, will eventually equal or surpass the records in 
commerce made by Liverpool and Manchester, London, 
Birmingham and others that had part in bringing trade 
supremacy of the last century to the Anglo-Saxons. 


SHIPPING 


From the earliest days of the pioneer settlements in 
Western Washington the waters of Puget Sound and its 
tributaries furnished the principal highway for trans- 
portation about the region, as they had for the native 
Indians. A large percentage of the land was so cov- 
ered with the dense growth of timber as to offer nothing 
more than footpaths and obstructed trails; hence travel 
was almost wholly by canoes plying the great stretch of 
waters in search of choice locations along the shores of 
Puget Sound. 


From the native type of craft it was an inevitable 
and early step to larger construction; the abundant sup- 
ply of timber for building boats was quickly utilized 
by the men from the east, among whom were numbered 
many of previous experience in construction and navi- 
gation of sailing vessels. Shipbuilding was an early sup- 
plement of the lumber industry of the Territory. 


The trail-blazers who came to the state found Olym- 
pia and Steilacoom accessible by highways, but beyond 
these places there were only the dense forests and the 
waters of the inland sea. So their early settlements 
were along the waterways on which their craft could ply, 
and shipping was an incident of their lives almost from 
the first. They found markets for their produce and for 
the squared timbers and piling in the cities of California 
as a result of the rush for gold which had brought 
thousands of adventurers from the east. The mails from 
the east for the Pacific coast came by ocean steamer to 
San Francisco by way of the isthmian route, and similar 
craft brought them to Puget Sound and Portland as dis- 
tributing centers for the settlements in this region. 
Postal service between the different localities of the sound 


TRADE AND SHIPPING 293 


country was also by boat, and the weekly papers which 
gave intelligence of doings in the outside world found the 
mail boat as important an ally as the metropolitan daily 
of the present age finds the fast mail train, or possibly 
as that of tomorrow will find the airplane. 


The first export business, coastwise domestic trade 
as it would be classified today, of which shipping records 
have been preserved, was a cargo of piles, completed 
with the aid of a yoke of oxen driven along the beach 
from Puyallup; it went to San Francisco in the winter 
of 1851-52. About the same time, tradition has it, an- 
other ship came from California commissioned to take 
back a cargo of ice from Puget Sound, indicating that 
the illusion of arctic weather in the comparatively high 
latitudes prevailed in those days just as it still does in 
some parts of the east that do not yet realize the tem- 
pering effects of the warm ocean current along the Pacific 
coast. But although the master of this “windjammer’” 
some seven decades ago was disappointed to find no frozen 
stretches along the Sound, he did find a profitable cargo 
awaiting him in the way of timber, and the owners were 
convinced when he returned that the voyage was satis- 
factory. After the Yesler steam sawmill started oper- 
ations the squared timbers, piles, and ships’ knees were 
supplemented by other varieties of lumber, while an early 
commerce was established in products of the farms which 
were in demand among the gold hunters. 


One of the most comprehensive and interesting chap- 
ters in Clarence B. Bagley’s history of Seattle deals with 
the fleets of those days, giving a list of vessels and many 
incidents of their history. 


As early as 1853 regular calls had been established 
and by the next year four lines were operating between 
the Golden State and the Sound, and about the same 
time the steamer Fairy, operating under the American 
flag, began regular service on Puget Sound from Olym- 
pia to points northward. The steamer had been brought 
from San Francisco on a sailing bark. The mail con- 
tract was an important consideration for the boats, and 


294 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


within the next few years there were many rivals seek- 
ing the business, with varying success and experiences. 
Competition resulted in slashing of fares and freight 
rates, until eventually the reduction of profits would bring 
about a readjustment, usually by buying out of rivals 
by one concern and the transfer of boats to other local- 
ities. One of the boats best remembered in this connec- 
tion is the Eliza Anderson, which operated almost con- 
tinuously for a dozen years, until her owner was sub- 
sidized to withdraw her from service and give a com- 
petitor the clear field for a consideration said to have 
been $1,500 a month. 


The Fraser river gold rush of 1859 was a bonanza 
for the operators of shipping on the Pacific, and thous- 
ands were carried from the southern cities in quest of 
wealth. In consequence, regular schedules were disre- 
garded, and every craft was utilized to pick up the eager 
passenger lists of argonauts, so the settlers did not have 
satisfactory service again until the rush was over and 
the beaches at the northern end of the sound were quiet 
once more. 


By the early seventies the wheat fields of eastern 
Washington were contributing an increasing tonnage for 
water transportation to the southern market, the coal 
fields of the Sound country were operating in volume, 
and the fish and lumber trade increased steadily to load 
the ships. Construction grew steadily, with sailing vessels 
predominating in the shipyards. Nine sailing craft were 
reported loading in the harbor of Seattle at one time in 
1875, three with coal from the Newcastle mines, four 
from the Renton mines, and two with lumber. 


In 1877 the Pacific Coast Steamship Company was 
organized, later being merged with the Admiral line as 
the Pacific Steamship Company, which in the present 
year, 1921, inaugurated the first transpacific passenger 
steamship service from Puget Sound under the American 
flag, with 2100-ton vessels of the United States Shipping 
Board, palatial steamers 535 feet long, with luxuries 
of equipment and completeness of service equal to the 
best on the Atlantic. 


TRADE AND SHIPPING 295 


Shipping increased steadily during the following 
years, until the discovery of gold in Alaska in the late 
nineties opened a new commerce to the northward, with 
establishment of regular lines to the territory whose 
products come by water to the Washington ports, and 
whose mercantile supply goes northward by the same 
route. 


During the years that this traffic has been developing 
the opening of the oriental markets has progressed, and 
some of the greatest of the Japanese lines have made 
their terminus on Puget Sound for vessels that reach 
21,000 tons displacement. One of the most important 
developments of this trade was the building of two 
gigantic freighters by the Great Northern company, the 
“Minnesota” and the “Dakota” being rated as the largest 
of American freighters. The ‘Dakota’ was wrecked 
off the Japanese coast and was not replaced, but the 
“Minnesota” operated until the war, when it was taken 
to the Atlantic for transport service and did not return 
to the Pacific. 


Rapid and extensive as have been the developments 
noted in this summary and in the chapter on trade, the 
immediate future appears to have in store a growth of 
shipping that will be of even greater import. Full util- 
ization of the Panama canal for intercoastal and trans- 
atlantic trade, when the settlement of the tolls question 
shall have established a stable and permanent basis, will 
work many and vast changes in the routes of trade. 
Already some of the older foreign lines are establishing 
service to the Pacific coast, with refrigerating equip- 
ment for transporting the fruits and food products to 
the markets of Europe. Under the American flag, sim- 
ilar service is reaching the Atlantic coast of the United 
States. The standardized 8,800 ton and 10,000 ton 
freighters turned out by American shipyards during the 
war are plying to the four quarters of the globe with 
Washington products under the Stars and Stripes. Huge 
vessels rated up to 15,000 tons have been announced to 
ply from Puget Sound to British terminals. Steamship 


296 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


companies of Holland and Scandinavia are in the same 
field, and when normal conditions are restored in Europe, 
bringing stabilization of money and parity of exchange 
to a point where commerce will be unimpeded, it seems 
a safe anticipation that the waters where once the 
Indian canoe was the only craft, and on which the pioneer 
white man laid the beginnings of fleets that would appear 
tiny beside one of the modern ocean-going vessels, will 
in a few years harbor daily innumerable ships flying all 
the flags that are known to the modern world. 


IMPORTS AND EXPORTS BY PORTS IN THE CUSTOMS DISTRICT OF 
WASHINGTON—FOR THE YEAR ENDING DECEMBER 31, 1920 






PORT— Imports Exports Collections 
Carn ttle ii goer ctoncssieacelect eres pteetacce deeecnnntenseseateress $82,337,232 $108,417,597 $3,756,402.17 
THA OTN A Oy eae esate ce cade alee dacasucuresercedentonivenrts== 80,436,422 61,059,130 990,348,05 
ADCLGERN  onreenencocccevsccccnceenccenceersencenannrecccenenecens 53 1,211,038 4,389.32 
STs 10s sec cod ns akcenscucakecasecsesteresy bite ba War At Weis 1 550 9,938,752 58,701.85 
DSPele hated cb: 4 00 bh Moyes ie ase HID SE RES 8 622,998 1,905,385 8,693.44 
IVETOUE bite csat ee eereetesees V3, bl oi2c9 1,711,159 113,821.65 
Port Angeles ....... BEE occu nesae 209,383 454,721 119,329.93 
Port Townsend fisalle sy iG 172,337 628,438 121,353.25 
SUVS, il icaa ros edaswawe crate’ twsnecatacas devarwcousvaetonsuaessens 8,300,354 5,518,562 63,977.46 
VA RA COT TES ee cee areata sc csiaeh Met ctawnctaeccessevere 184,199 916,024 4,528.41 
OR rt eee cco acetic ene on oeentticmer ones salveeterreroten 61,012 94,984 502.07 
DY Sahig Uhl by ph copa et fh DALN ee ad ae Rg PERI a9 Ph 103,102 45,321 893.87 
FOR PTY (ih cote tcaceccevoraces idaceacevasessnnecabesnsqnanvanenpsssssces 7,412 21,832 1,522.11 
Bria LATOR | cicceces eset secesseeeennoctettcntnonespeser> 82,605 107,587 2,754.99 
TiS Crier ict rece oente sa cctanteksan teeth seaneuaeseueee 67,588 82,961 1,918.08 
Molson yee eee erate ceaccaseees 137,613 26,793 1,245.80 
DY OrCH Orb Ue tiocccnes leet cdcee ts cetacedasos repre ee cateneane 369,954 468,020 10,421.06 
OOTOV UG re led wesuadaceteacray ce seccee pe tpcaeate 20,524 50,716 216.94 
Roche ft Ar DOry teeta tees esactoatenvsvoneetect ost neers 5,485 179.66 
SST h ates 2Yar ets Wee pent meets ee RERE RIO AES es ae eH 111,882 85.40 
SOK ATI Cw letters rece erece tally son oasentevedoveeccnsutetee 1,440,460 47,884 65,320.30 
VAN COUVET tei yOu ceccccecek cecetSeensace-neceessperenene 109.00 

Movements of Vessels Year Ending Dec. 31, 1920— 
Entrances Clearances 

No. Tonnage No. Tonnage 
2519s WA MerICAn Weccicetsctesseccesnsceees 1,293,598 2269 American _ ...........--:---::0s+ 1,328,040 


BZ2Z FOP CIRM ancececrccneceveassenersnssees 2,057,767 2323 Foreign  ......---.--ccsss-sssees- 2,114,308 


CHAPTER XXXVIII. 


POLITICAL HISTORY 


Thirtieth State—Part of Oregon Territory—Acquired By Dis- 
covery—But One Flag—Great Britain Disputed Right— 
Politician, What It Means—Different Types—First Officials 
—Not High Class—Effect of Civil War—Republicans Divided 
—‘Big Bolt”—Disputed Boundaries—British Claim San 
Juan and Orcas Island—The Famous Pickett in Command 
—Hostilities Feared—British Bluffing—Arbitration Agreed 
Upon—German Emperor Sole Arbitrator—Settle In Favor 
Of U. S.—Col. Casey Fine Officer—Friend Of Pioneers. 


Washington, the thirtieth State admitted into the 
Union, the fifteenth in point of area, a part of the 
Oregon country, contained when created as a territory 
(March 2, 1853) approximately 180,000 square miles, 
three-sevenths of the whole of the original Oregon 
territory. 


Subsequently, and before admission as a State, Mon- 
tana and Idaho, were carved out of Washington’s part 
of the Oregon country, leaving the lesser stated area 
as recorded below. 


The early history of Washington is so interwoven 
with that of Oregon as a whole, that both must be con- 
sidered to give a full insight into the origin of the 
State and the early history of territorial life. 


Oregon is the only portion of the United States 
acquired by right of discovery and occupancy with the 
distinction of never having had but the one flag, the 
glorious stars and stripes. 


True, Great Britain for many a long, weary year 
disputed the title. The discovery of the Columbia River 
by Captain Robert Gray in 1792, the explorations of 


298 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


Lewis and Clark, authorized by the United States 
Government in 1805-6, irrevocably established title from 
the 42nd to the 49th parallel of north latitude and 
from the summit of the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific 
Ocean. 


“Politician N. 1—One versed or experienced in the 
science of government; one devoted to politics; a states- 
man. 


“2.—One primarily devoted to his own advancement 
in public office, or to the success of a political party: 
—used in a depreciating sense; one addicted or at- 
tached to politics as managed by parties, I. E., of or 
pertaining to public policy, or to politics; relating to 
affairs of State. 


“Politician—Cunning; using artifice; polite; artful. 


“Politician—(a) Of or pertaining to policy, or 
civic government; political. 


“Syn.—Wise; prudent; sagacious; discreet; provi- 
dent; wary; artful; cunning.” 


In other plain English, a politician may be one 
striving to promote a local, state or national policy, 
with true altruistic motives, or he may be an unscrupu- 
lous schemer, intent only upon his own advancement 
in public affairs. 


Abraham Lincoln was a politician; so was George 
Washington; so was McKinley and hundreds of thous- 
ands of prominent men who have gone before, in the 
better meaning of the word, else this grand nation 
would not have endured for a century past nor become 
the beacon light for liberty and just dealing between 
man and man. 


On the other hand, the world has a Lenine of 
Russia and many others of like ilk to endure: We have 
had a Bryan and a Wilson to deal with and heed. I 
do not by any means cite these two prominent Ameri- 
cans to compare them with the modern Robespierre of 
Russia in methods and intent of purpose. 


POLITICAL HISTORY 299 


William J. Bryan is a politician, but no one ques- 
tions his purity of motive; and yet, if he could have 
had his way, he would have plunged this nation into 
unutterable financial chaos that would have taken many 
decades to recover from. 


The same may be said of Woodrow Wilson; no 
unprejudiced mind believes Woodrow Wilson was dis- 
honest or believes that he was not altruistic in his 
motives. 


I believe both of these prominent politicians were 
honest and sincere but both were handicapped, the one, 
as in the case of Bryan, by a consuming ambition for 
office, the other, as with Wilson, a boundless inordinate 
desire for fame; both are of a different type than de- 
fined in the quotations from Webster. If Wilson could 
have had his way, we as a nation, would now have 
been a part of the unutterable confusion of Europe 
with scant hope of being free from that calamity for 
many decades, if indeed, at any time. 


And so, we have had, and have yet, three types 
of politicians; one altruistic with clear vision; a second, 
also altruistic but visionary; a third, an unscrupulous 
schemer for self and pelf. 


Thirty-six years of territorial life brought with it a 
larger percentage of political derelicts than prevailed 
after statehood was acquired. The paying off of 
political debts by appointment brought a constant new 
supply of territorial office holders, with but very few 
exceptions, strangers to the territory and strangers to 
the needs of the country in which the political wheel 
of fortune had thrown them. With but few exceptions, 
these appointees were bright, and, as public senti- 
ment ran, upright, honorable men; but were the vic- 
tims of the faith inaugurated by Jackson, that to the 
victors belong the spoils. Cast into a strange political 
atmosphere, new appointees naturally looked the field 
over for friends and workmen, soon found congenial 
company in the coterie at Olympia formed at the very 


300 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


beginning of territorial life to control, the emoluments 
of office and which finally became so powerful that none 
dare disobey its behests. 


The lax election laws provided for an open vote 
that paved the way for control by employers and fre- 
quently descended a step further, to flagrant vote buy- 
ing, made easy by the open saloon and too often by 
an open money consideration. 


I do not wish to be understood as intimating that 
such control was general or practiced by the greater 
body of pioneers; undeniably though a true history of 
the time cannot be written and ignore the extent of 
these frauds, deplorable as they may be. We have not 
clean hands up to this day and age, nevertheless, the 
secret ballot has safe-guarded the vote and made 
fraud much more difficult and less common. 


The great conspiracy resulting in the war of re- 
bellion found its echo on the Pacific Coast; and no. 
where, strange to say, more virulent than in Oregon 
and Washington, though perhaps less powerful and 
dangerous than in California where more concentrated 
effort could be made because of the larger city, San 
Francisco, as a nucleus. 


A large contingent of the early pioneers of the 
Oregon country came from the slave holding State of 
Missouri and were victims of their prejudice against 
the negro imbibed in their home surroundings and of 
their belief—in the rights of the slave-holder. Not- 
withstanding this handicap, a large majority of this 
class were loyal to the government and opposed to 
slavery. 


During the continuance of the rebellion a small 
contingent from all sections of the East of place seekers, 
unscrupulous politicians of the third estate; negro 
haters and haters of any person holding free soil prin- 
ciples (abolitionists as all such were branded) were 
clandestinely advocating a Pacific confederacy. So 


POLITICAL HISTORY 301 


dangerous this propaganda became that we were ad- 
vised to keep our loyal men at home and quietly arm 
as best we could. 


After the war of the rebellion closed and time passed 
and the republicans had come into control many of 
these doubtful loyal citizens flocked to the party in 
power and some of them sought and obtained high posi- 
tions by combining with the Olympia clique, likewise 
existing under republican rule, following the over- 
throw of the democratic party. 


The result was a revolt in the republican party 
in 1870 known here locally as the “Big Bolt,” and an 
active campaign, which, however, resulted in defeat. 
Finally, two years later, the malcontents joined with 
the democrats, elected a democrat to Congress in 1872 
and cleansed the republican political atmosphere for 
twenty years. 


This was the first bolt from the republican party 
and like the great revolt of 1912, incidentally brought 
reform within the councils of the party. 


It was my fortune, or if you please, misfortune, to 
be in both these revolts, and hope I never will be 
called upon again to administer rebuke in like manner; 
but can truly say that I have no regrets to utter. 


To those who are not conversant with the history 
and geography of the Northwestern State of the United 
States, Washington, a brief introduction is necessary 
for a full understanding of what follows. 


The Pacific Ocean waters, breaking in through the 
Straits of Juan de Fuca, the dividing waters between 
British Columbia and the United States, divides into 
numerous channels eighty miles east from the coast 
and surrounds numerous islands—forty or more, among 
which is the beautiful San Juan, a fertile picturesque 
land of great beauty and value. The treaty between 
Great Britain and the United States defined the boun- 
dary as following the forty-ninth parallel of latitude 


302 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


to the Gulf of Georgia, should then run through “the 
middle of the channel which separates the continent 
from Vancouver Island and through the middle of 
the Straits of Juan de Fuca to the Pacific Ocean. There 
were numerous channels leading from the Gulf of 
Georgia to the Straits; England claimed one channel 
as the line that would include San Juan Island as 
English territory, to which our own Government firmly 
protested. This island, the largest save two of the 
group, and its twin sister Orcas, contained unlimited 
supply of lime rock that has made the group famous 
for the production of this article of commerce. On 
that fateful day, the question whether there would be 
war with Great Britain or continued peace hung in 
the balance. The settlement on the island by both 
English and American citizens led to friction and 
finally the killing of a pig by an American citizen be- 
longing to an Englishman and the attempt to arrest 
the American by an English officer, brought a crisis 
that could not be ignored; hence the landing of Ameri- 
can troops on the island. 


The English Government under one pretext and an- 
other vaguely laid claim to the whole country north of 
the Spanish domain and West of the Rocky Mountains to 
the Russian possession in the North, all known as the 
Oregon country. Finding her claim wholly untenable, 
she receded to the Columbia River; when defeated in 
that under a glaring perversion of plain language of the 
Canal Haro, thus laying claim to San Juan and 
adjacent islands. 


July 29, 1859, Captain George E. Pickett, who 
later led the fatal charge at Gettysburg that destroyed 
all hope for the success of the rebellion, landed with 
a company of United States troops on San Juan Island. 
Pickett’s occupation of the island by American troops 
brought violent protests from the English authorities 
at Victoria, accompanied by threats and backed by 
the despatch of three war ships that lay in the offing 
with guns trained on his camp. Meanwhile the Ameri- 


POLITICAL HISTORY 303 


can force was speedily reinforced from Port Townsend 
and Steilacoom until nearly five hundred regulars of 
the United States army were entrenched on the island. 
A wave of indignation ran rampant over the people of 
the territory. We had for long years been badgered 
by the presence of the Hudson’s Bay Company and its 
double, the Puget Sound Agricultural Company, claim- 
ing title to large areas of American soil. The author 
had some keen experience in having his title deed to 
his donation claim held up for nearly twenty years 
on account of this claim. The numerous flocks of the 
Company had eaten off the grass on large areas; some 
of their cattle had become wild and a perfect nuisance 
and so when the word passed that the English were 
trying again to hold American soil, small wonder that 
the fighting spirit of the pioneers was up and ill timed 
projects in the air. And so when Colonel Casey’s 
detachment left Steilacoom for San Juan, a lot of us 
procured a steamer and followed him. Just what we 
proposed to do upon arrival no one had any plan and 
upon landing were told by our American military 
officers that we could not be of any service; advised 
us to return home and we followed the plan of the 
famous general who “marched his soldiers up the hill 
and then marched them down again.” We saw, but 
did not conquer, and returned with colors flying but 
spirits drooping; the laugh was on us. 


Not so with Pickett and his devoted men. A third 
British man of war had arrived and all three with 
guns trained on the devoted American camp, were 
in a position to render it untenable. He expected this 
to occur at any moment and planned to return the 
fire, then spike his guns and retire to the woods out 
of reach and sight of the ship’s guns, but not to sur- 
render. Every hour strengthened his position and 
when Casey landed with reinforcements and the en- 
trenchments nearing completion, the relative strength 
of the opposing parties changed and there would un- 
doubtedly have been a fight to the finish if once fire 


304 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


had been opened by the British. The facts were, the 
British authorities hesitated, not feeling secure in their 
right and had attempted to run a big bluff on the 
American commander, which he promptly called with 
a firm hand on his colors. Hundreds of people came 
over from Victoria, some for curiosity, some belligerent, 
while a few exerted themselves to promote peace, but 
all, like the American civilian contingent soon “‘marched 
down the hill,’”’ when informed by their military author- 
ities that if they remained somebody might get hurt. 
Excitement ran high and a narrow escape from open 
war with but one immediate certain result, the Ameri- 
can force would eventually be defeated, with no pos- 
sible way to receive further reinforcements or sup- 
plies. Finally arbitration was agreed upon joint oc- 
cupancy by 100 troops of each nation followed, with 
camps a few miles separated that continued for three 
years until the dispute was settled in favor of the 
United States by the German Emperor, to whom the 
question was referred as sole arbitrator. 


Looking back over the vista of years, I can realize, 
howsoever faded the memory, yet wonder how vivid 
small incidents continue in mind, the sage advice 
received from Colonel Casey, whom I knew well. 
Upon landing, the Colonel took command by right of 
seniority in rank. He did not expect to return from 
the Island alive, but to sell his life as dearly as pos- 
sible if worst came to worst. Under his directions the 
rude fortifications begun by Pickett were strengthened 
and are visible to this day. 


I had been drawn close to Colonel Casey during the 
Indian war four years before, and had repeatedly met 
him subsequently. At the outbreak of the war, nine 
settlers were massacred. A little boy, George King, 
five years old, was taken captive and held for six 
months or more and finally sent in by an Indian to 
Fort Steilacoom. Colonel Casey, then commanding the 
Fort, sent the child to me in the nearby village of 
Steilacoom, as he did not have a suitable place at the 


POLITICAL HISTORY 305 


Fort to care for him. The little fellow had almost for- 
gotten his mother tongue, but could speak the Indian 
language. The Colonel naturally took much interest 
in the little orphan (both parents had been killed by 
the Indians) and visited him several times before he 
was sent East to his relations in Ohio. My own boy, 
about the same age, had acquired a smattering of the 
Indian tongue. The Colonel, overhearing the little 
fellows’ Indian talk while playing could not help but 
be amused, but the incident brought forth unrestrained 
tears. Colonel Casey was a strict disciplinarian, but 
he had a heart within him as “Big as an ox,” as we 
pioneers used to express it, and did all he could to aid 
the pioneers who were driven from their homes by 
the Indians. 


CHAPTER XXXIX. 


PRISON REFORM 


Criminals Treated More Humanely Now—Much Remains to be 
Done—Scripture Quotations—What “Compensation” Means 
—No Prisons Here in the Beginning—With Laws Came 
Transgressors—The Contract System—Bad Results—State 
Control an Improvement—Much Remains to be Done— 
Suitable Employment Should Be Furnished—Jute Mill No 
Benefit. 


The sins of omission are just as scarlet as those 
of commission. I approach the subject of prison re- 
form with regret—I may say with sorrow—for my 
own sin of omission in not doing more than I 
have done to alleviate the sufferings of the criminals 
and combat the dangerous fallacy (to the community) 
that the criminal must be incarcerated primarily as a 
punishment for his crime. 


As the average of life runs I have lived contem- 
poraneously with near three generations and can truly 
bear witness to progress for a more humane treat- 
ment of the criminal, but far, very far, less than we 
ought to have done and far less than in other fields of 
morals and enlightened progress. 


I would not have my readers conclude from what 
has preceded that I join with the sentimentalist that 
ean see the wrong inflicted upon the criminal by our 
system, or rather lack of system, in their treatment and 
forget the greater wrong upon the community in 
which they live; that dwell upon the inhumanity in- 
herent in present prevailing prison management while 
neglecting practical effort to reform. 


PRISON REFORM 307 


“Vengeance is mine” is often quoted from our 
scriptures to justify punishment of the criminal, ignor- 
ing the words of St. Paul following, “But I will repay, 
saith the Lord.” Again ‘To me belongeth vengeance” 
followed by ‘“‘And recompense,” and again, ‘‘For this is 
the time of the Lord’s vengeance” (on Babylon) fol- 
lowed by ‘“‘He will render unto her a recompense.” And 
what is recompense? Webster says: “To return an 
equivalent for; to give compensation for; to pay for.” 
And what is crime? Again appealing to our highest 
authority, Webster, crime is “Any violation of law, 
either divine or human; an omission of a duty com- 
manded, or the commission of an act forbidden by 
law.” 


Kighty years ago, in my boyhood days, I was 
taught the doctrine of everlasting punishment in a 
future life; I did not believe in it then and do not 
believe it now. God will “compensate” the criminal 
inside and outside the prison walls by the ray of hope 
left in the breast of the most hardened criminal. De- 
stroy that hope by man-made law, or by maladminis- 
tration of law inside prison walls—you make a beast 
of the victim that will surely become an enemy of law 
and order should he ever regain his liberty—seek 
revenge for the spirit of revenge administered to him 
behind prison walls. 


By the immutable laws of God, punishment for 
“compensation,” for the benefit of the punished, for 
the betterment of the subject, is universal. This law 
applies to communities, states, nations, as well as to 
individuals. We may not understand this law any 
more than we understand the law of gravitation, but 
we know it exists. 


England committed a crime against liberty and re- 
ceived punishment, and compensation followed; the 
new born nation committed a greater crime in protect- 
ing slavery, received an awful punishment, commen- 
surate to the crime of the centuries and received its 


308 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


compensation. The present generation can scarcely 
realize or believe the heinous crime of slavery. 


Yes, this nation received its punishment, followed 
by compensation. This nation, this state, this com- 
munity, where I write is receiving punishment for the 
continued violation of this righteous law of compensa- 
tion as applied to our criminal class unfortunate enough 
to be placed behind prison bars and will continue with- 
out compensation until the great law is obeyed. 


I can truly testify that during my residence of 
sixty-eight years in the territory now comprising the 
State of Washington, a marked advance has_ been 
made in the treatment of our criminals both inside and 
outside of prison walls; the criminals outside of prisons 
will be considered later; just now we will treat of the 
criminals confined in our prisons. 


In the beginning, of course, there were no prisons 
and, in fact, we may almost say no need for them. 
This utopian condition, however, did not continue long; 
as soon as we had laws we had trespassers, criminals, 
if you will, bold enough to justify confinement. Ac- 
cordingly, makeshift prisons were erected at the dif- 
ferent county seats of a kind, the least said about them 
the better. Finally the necessity became so urgent 
a contract was made with a private company to build 
a penitentiary and for the keep and employment of the 
convicts. I visited that prison a number of times, 
knew each of the four members of the Company; knew 
them as law abiding, courteous, humane men, but 
must say their contact, or contract, may I not say, 
seemed to blunt their sensitive nature and conscience 
until I came to know it was fatal to good citizenship, 
or at least injurious. I then and there set my mind 
like flint against the contract system, injurious alike 
to convict, keeper and community. 


An honest effort has been made in this state to 
correct the evils of the contract system and has made 
great progress under direct state control. The change, 


PRISON REFORM 309 


however, missed the mark for the greater reform in 
that more attention was paid to financial results than 
to the improvement in the morals of convicts and con- 
sequent eventual safety of the community. 


Any system to fulfill the moral obligation to the 
prisoners and secure safety to the public should pro- 
vide employment for the criminal that would fit him 
to become a self-supporting citizen upon his release 
from imprisonment. 


This, our present system, does not accomplish in 
that the provision for employment in the jute mill is of 
no benefit to the individual after his release, as it is 
entirely out of the line of industry in the community 
in which he is to live. 


CHAPTER XL. 
AVIATION 


The author has taken several flights in the air and 
believes the future will develop the airplane as an 
active commercial competitor with the slower methods 
on the earth’s surface; in lighter vein an account of 
his recent trips follows: 


“How did it feel?” I have been asked by a number 
of friends since my return from a round trip to Vic- 
toria in the aeroplane with Edward Hubbard, who has 
the mail contract between Seattle and Victoria. 


I remember I was asked that same question: “How 
did it feel?’ when, seventy-two years ago, I took my 
first railroad ride out of Indianapolis over the track 
just completed from Madison, on the Ohio River, to 
Indianapolis. This was purely a “joy ride,” to see 
“how it would feel,’ but proved to be not much joy 
though we got the ride. The track had recently been 
laid on two parallel wooden stringers, upon which iron 
strips, but little heavier than ordinary wagon tire, had 
been spiked, and had not yet been ballasted. 


The “joy” all went out of us in less than. a mile’s 
travel, although the speed certainly did not exceed 
twelve miles an hour, and the “jolt” took possession. 
If there were any springs under the cars we certainly 
did not feel the effect of them. That was in 1848; I 
had nearly reached the age of eighteen and was ready 
for almost any kind of a venture, and didn’t mind it; 
but my girl fairly scolded me for getting her into such 
a “scrape.” 


Wiseacres of that day shook their heads and said 
it was a “fad” that would soon wear itself out, and 
many refused to try the experiment of riding on the 
“new fangled machine.” 


AVIATION Sit 


A wag tells the story on the “Old Timers” of the 
Willamette Valley, who had left the Middle West before 
the advent of railroads there and many of them had 
reached the biblical age of three score years and ten 
before they had seen a railroad, and some of them had 
refused to ride on the “thing” and said they would 
“stay on land,’ as the saying goes, and said some of 
them had to be blindfolded and backed up on the train, 
as they did with their frightened mules to get them on 
the ferry boat. 


But, pleasantry aside, in the early days as much dis- 
trust existed in the minds of the people as to the safety 
of railroads as exists now as to aeroplanes. 


I will answer the question ‘Show did it feel’ by 
relating my first experience in the air before that of 
this trip to Victoria. 


About a year ago I wanted to see the famous Para- 
dise Valley above the timber line of Mount Rainier, 
to secure views for this work “Progress.” We started 
from Lakeview, a few miles south of Tacoma, toward 
the mountain, with Mr. Barnes as pilot. We had 
reached an elevation of over a mile and about on a 
level with the valley, when the clouds shut off the view 
and the main purpose of the flight was defeated. 


I will answer the question of “how did it feel’ on 
that trip and then of the Victoria trip later. 


For the first half hour of the trip towards the 
mountain I forgot all about the novelty of the trip in 
trying to locate points with which I had been familiar 
since the year 1854, sixty-seven years ago, hunting 
cattle, lassoing calves, branding wild steers and like 
experiences of Western life. The first experience that 
awakened me to the fact that I was a long way above 
the solid ground I used to traverse, when, of a sudden, 
I felt a visible jar as though we had encountered some- 
thing in the air and a feeling that the bottom had 
dropped out. This only for a moment. I felt that I 


312 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


would rather be ‘‘on land” though only for a moment, 
as the pilot seemed undisturbed and the machine con- 
tinued to run as though nothing had happened. Mr. 
Barnes, after we had landed, said we had run into a 
“hole in the air,’ meaning almost a vacuum; that he 
often encountered such at high altitudes, but did not 
consider them dangerous, although in one instance he 
descended rapidly at least 500 feet. 


Going over to Victoria we encountered a strong head 
wind, though unsteady. Sometimes the little plane 
would rock fore and aft like a small boat crossing a 
wave of greater width than the length of the boat; at 
other times apparently the wind would shift and the 
little craft would careen slightly—roll, as we would 
say of a ship traveling in the trough of waves, but 
always promptly right itself to a level. 


The rolling of an airship, however, is no more un- 
comfortable than the rolling of a ship at sea. I remem- 
ber the first trip I made across the Atlantic we en- 
countered a wave storm (there didn’t seem to be much 
wind) when the ship rolled so heavily as to empty the 
tables of dishes and to send passengers first to one 
side of the cabin and then to the other, “all in a mess,” 
as one of the English passengers said. The incident 
struck terror in the minds of the passengers, some 
shrieking, some praying while lying prostrate, with 
but few feeling confidence that the good ship would 
weather the storm. After the worst was over a sudden 
lurch of the ship caused a lady to leave her chair and 
irresistably cross the cabin and to sit down on the lap 
of a big, burly Irishman. The incident caused a burst 
of laughter that closed the prayer meetings, as the 
movement of the lady seemed deliberate, though en- 
tirely beyond her control, and in a measure restored 
cheerfulness. 


Coming back from Victoria in the evening the air 
was calm and the trip more enjoyable, though I can 
say I enjoyed both. Going over, Mr. Hubbard flew low 





OHVdI ‘NOLSIMAT WOU SATIN 06 AO LHDITA V qalLiv ANVAOdS LV DNIGNV1I 





AVIATION 313 


while following Admiralty Inlet to the Straits; some- 
times apparently not more than a hundred feet above 
the water, from which view I could see and realize 
how rapidly we were traveling. Upon reaching the 
Straits he rose to a height of probably 500 feet, en- 
countered considerable numbers of small air bumps 
and descended into the restricted and crowded harbor 
of Victoria to his landing incline, as the western 
phrase goes, “as easy as rolling off a log.” 


I first visited Victoria sixty-two years ago, going 
from Steilacoom in the old steamer Constitution at a 
speed of about eight miles an hour. She never got 
out of the harbor only as “junk,” as the pilot failed to 
keep her off the rocks in the crooked narrow Victoria 
harbor channel, and when the tide fell, the steamer’s 
back was broken and the “jig was up” for the old 
eraft. Victoria at that time was a straggling village, 
but now is a city of fifty thousand people, with a grand 
capitol, splendid hotels and an active virile population. 


The railroad supplanted the stage coach only after 
a real vigorous contest; the modern electric car has 
made serious inroads upon the parent system; the auto- 
mobile and motor freight and passenger cars contend 
with both for public favor and each year more and 
more encroach upon the fixed track car traffic, and now 
comes the aeroplane to contend for mastery over all 
prior methods of travel and transportation. 


The establishment of a daily aeroplane mail from 
New York to San Francisco; of long distance mail and 
passenger routes in Europe; of planes with 260 horse 
power carrying fifty passengers in a luxurious cabin; 
of 20,000 miles aggregate established daily mail routes; 
with 6,000 passengers annually crossing the English 
Channel from London to Paris, why should we hesi- 
tate to accept existing conditions. 


We wonder if the time is not near at hand when 
the aeroplane will rise vertically from the house tops 
of cities or door yards of country dwellers; when the 


314 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


power will be increased, the wings clipped and the 
gait speeded; when the people will trust the aeroplane 
as they do the jitney or the rail car. 


We are already off the land in our own facts, so 
now may I not be pardoned to indulge in the pleasant 
pastime of “building castles in the air.” When the 
individual may “flap his wings and crow” and be off 
towards the clouds or to see his best girl. Stranger 
things than this have happened in a life time. 


One day last year I had engaged to meet the pioneers 
of Asotin County of our state in the public park of 
Clarkston on a Sunday afternoon. While speaking a 
monster aeroplane appeared over us, dropping mes- 
sages of greeting, departing with a roar of the ma- 
chinery power that enabled the aviator to maintain his 
position in the air. 


Unwittingly I had agreed to meet with the Daughters 
of the Revolution on the following day at Spokane, 
ninety miles away, expecting to go by rail during the 
night, when I discovered the trains did not connect 
so I could keep both appointments. 


My host, Mr. Miller, President of the Chamber of 
Commerce of Clarkston, said he believed the “flying 
machine,” as he put it, would take me over in time 
and upon my request to ascertain, left the dinner 
table long enough to telephone over to headquarters 
and to receive the response: “Yes, we will be glad to 
take the old man over.” And this is the story of how 
I came to fly from Clarkston to Spokane, ninety miles, 
at a gait of more than a mile a minute, after having 
crossed the continent with an ox team, poking along at 
two miles an hour. Some progress that. 


Why, the newspapers made so much ado about it, 
sent an artist to meet us when we landed at Spokane, 
shown in the illustration, as if it was an adven- 
ture, I cannot say. I did not think of the trip in that 
light; in fact, had been in the air twice before in the 


AVIATION 315 


attempt to reach Paradise Valley of Mount Rainier, 
but in which we failed on account of the clouds. 


I had never before seen the Steptoe battle ground 
until this time from the air as we passed over it on our 
way to Spokane. The old scout Fitzgerald has written 
a short account of the battle on the Butte bearing 
Steptoe’s name, where the battle with the Indians oc- 
curred, and so I will not repeat it here. 


The landscape view was grand and enchanting. Part 
of the way we were passing over the farming region of 
Washington; here we could see a large field of dark 
green of irregular dimensions; there another of a 
lighter shade; then again one of golden hue of either 
grain or the stubble; then again the fallow plowed 
fields of darker shade; and then here and there on 
some steep slope the native bunch grass showed of a 
distinct color of its own. The scene made me think 
of Grandmother’s “crazy quilt’ I used to admire so 
much, of numerous colors in the patch work, so num- 
erous we thought all the colors were shown, but the 
landscape beat the treasured heirloom in varieties of 
color shades; it was an inspiring sight as we rapidly 
passed over the scene at a rate of more than a mile 
a minute. 


We passed over or near six villages, each with two 
or more church spires and its school house and some 
with their town hall. The roads looked like a thread 
on the ground; the automobiles like a fly creeping 
along, so small in appearance that I would not have 
known what the black spot was had I not been prompted 
by my captain, the aviator. 


THE AEROPLANE 


From the remotest times men have scratched their 
heads and racked their brains to devise some way of 
making and arranging artificial wings attached to the 
body so that a person might navigate the air as a 
bird. This idea and this wish were not confined to 


316 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


any particular race or clime; they seem to have had 
a spontaneous growth in every land of which we pos- 
sess any historical knowledge. 


In ancient Greece and Egypt there was a prevailing 
belief that certain persons had accomplished many 
journeys in that way; and not only persons but ani- 
mals were at times believed to have flown through 
the air. Of course, these stories are myths, but they 
serve to show us that the idea of locomotion on wings 
appealed to the fancy of the people then as well as in 
modern times. 


In the Middle Ages many learned men devoted their 
time and talents to solve this problem; but their efforts 
were fruitless. Natural philosophy and the laws of 
mechanics were not then sufficiently understood so as 
to successfully overcome the very serious obstacles that 
stood in the way of accomplishment. Among others 
that brilliant and versatile Italian genius, Leonardo 
da Vinci, a contemporary of Columbus; a painter, a 
sculptor, a civil and military engineer, inventor and 
man of letters, drew a very good plan of an aeroplane, 
but went no farther. And since his day much study 
and effort has been expended on this fascinating prob- 
lem, by enthusiasts in many lands; all meeting with 
failure and many losing their lives in rash attempts. 


In 1891, Otto Lelienthal made one or two flights of 
short duration in a plane of his own construction, but 
finally fell a victim to the imperfection of his machine. 
He is rightfully classed as the first aviator. S. Pilcher 
was the second. In order to get started both had to 
slide from an eminence; and both were killed. 


About this time Wilbur and Orville Wright, of 
Dayton, Ohio, were interested deeply in the efforts of 
Lelienthal and Pilcher to accomplish air navigation; 
they also being desirous of achieving that distinction. 
But being practical men they realized that a machine 
to be of use for every day purposes, must be constructed 
in such a way as to be capable of rising from the 


AVIATION 317 


ground, whether it be level or hilly. Convenient hills 
are not to be found everywhere. 


Shortly after this, one Samuel Pierpoint Langley, 
who was an enthusiast in the study of aeronautics, and 
devoted much time to experimenting in the construc- 
tion of “flying machines,” evolved a monoplane which 
he called an “aerodrome.” He undoubtedly possessed a 
correct knowledge of the principles of air navigation 
and was so convinced in his own mind that he had 
mastered every essential detail necessary to success 
that he laid his plans before the Ordinance Dept. of 
the Government and received a very favorable recogni- 
tion. Fifty thousand dollars was appropriated for mak- 
ing a thorough investigation of his invention. After 
spending considerable time in the construction of his 
aerodrome, he prepared to launch it. In October, 1903, 
he attempted a launching on the banks of the Potomac, 
but failed in the attempt through some defect in ap- 
pliances. Again in December, 1903, he essayed a 
second attempt and the machine becoming entangled in 
defective launching apparatus toppled into the Potomac. 
Then the newspapers raised such a cry of derision and 
sarcasm that the Government abandoned the project. 


Not long after this Prof. Langley died. 


In the meantime Wright Brothers worked assidu- 
ously to perfect their invention, aided not a little by 
the failures of their contemporaries, whose mistakes 
they avoided. They mastered the equilibrium and other 
problems; added a motor, gas engine and propeller in 
1903; and will go down in history as the men who 
overcame all the obstacles to successful aerial naviga- 
tion, in heavier than air machines. 


Their accomplishments in this line elicited the 
plaudits and admiration of people in every land. 


They then offered to sell their invention to the U. 
S. War Dept., but not being quite able to meet all the 
exacting requirements of the commission appointed for 


318 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


the purpose, the offer was turned down. It was then 
offered to the French Government and after awhile 
was accepted. 


When Wright Brothers made 35 miles an hour in 
their exhibition flights the world was amazed. Now 
85 miles an hour would be a snail’s pace. 


Everyone knows the vast strides that have been 
made in aeronautics in the past few years, so it would 
be useless here to try to give a detailed account of the 
progress made. The “world war” certainly stimulated 
improvements in this line, for it has become a most 
important branch in the conduct of modern warfare. 
An army lacking in this important feature, no matter 
how superior in other respects, would almost certainly 
be doomed to defeat. 


And should the world be again cursed by a trial of 
strength of two or more nations with huge armies 
clashing in the shock of battle, the side best equipped 
in aerial craft is almost sure to come out victorious. 


But let us turn from the uses of aviation as an 
engine of past or future wars, and see how it is steadily 
assuming an important part in the commercial life of 
the country, and in fact of the world. 


In Europe even more so than in the U. S. the utility 
of aerial mail and passenger routes between impor- 
tant governmental and commercial centers was dis- 
cerned so that now regular trips are made on schedule 
time between such points as Paris to Brussels, Milan 
to Rome, London to Paris, Paris to Warsaw, etc. 


France certainly leads all other lands in providing 
for the comfort and safety of those who journey by 
aeroplane. This superiority is largely due to the liber- 
ality of the French Government in granting bounties 
for the encouragement of the new industry until it 
becomes self sustaining. 


The routes from Paris to London and Brussels are 
equipped with Pullman, Limousine and Taxy coaches, 


AVIATION 319 


furnished elegantly, according to the number of pas- 
sengers wishing to make the trip; the Pullman carry- 
ing twelve, the Limousine eight and the Taxy four. 
The fare is very moderate, the Government standing 
for upwards of three-fourths of the cost of operation. 


From Paris to Brussels the time made by the air 
route is less than one-third of that made by rail. 


The risk is far less than by either railroad or 
steamer and that fact will certainly result in the in- 
crease of patronage. Speed and security are good 
drawing cards; and time will gradually eliminate the 
natural timidity of people to flying through space. 


several new air routes are about to be established 
in every European country, and coaches are being built 
of much larger capacity than those now in use. The 
Germans are alive to the advantages of aviation; so are 
the Italians, with the great Capproni as the directing 
spirit. Even Spain has awakened to its importance, 
and a Spanish inventor has perfected a device for dis- 
carding the slide in starting, so that the machine can 
rise direct from where it stands. If the roof of your 
house is flat you can use it for a starting and landing 
point; certainly a wonderful improvement. 


But the United States, it is to be hoped, will not 
long lag behind. In this, as in other lines of progress, 
it is not too much to expect that our country will soon 
forge to the front. 


In many parts of the country there are large avia- 
tion fields where hundreds and thousands of young men 
are being trained as aviators. 


Let no one infer from what has been said in this 
chapter that anything approaching perfection has been 
reached in aviation. 


The possibilities of progress along this line are 
enough to stagger human incredulity. In fifty years or 
less may not railroads and steamers be replaced almost 
entirely by the safer and far swifter flying machine. 
Who can tell? 


CHAPTER XLI. 


ALASKA 


The Purchase An Event Of National Importance—Immense Ter- 
ritory For Mere Trifle—Limitless Resources—Seward Pur- 
chased Better Than He Knew—Wonderful Possibilities In 
The Future—A Game Country Without Rival—Fish And Fur 
Great Industries—Everything Great And Grand In Alaska 
—Has Accelerated The Growth Of Washington. 


The purchase of Alaska was an event of great 
national importance and to Washington a momentous 
incident. 


While Washington contained but 69,127 square miles, 
Alaska boundaries included 590,884, an area eight 
times as large, and the State of Indiana thrown in for 
good measure; or in other words, fourteen times the 
size of the great state of Ohio, or still other words, 
twice the size of the original thirteen colonies with 
81,382 miles to spare. 


At the time, few grasped the importance of the 
acquisition to the territory (of Washington) and in 
fact, none could fully, as the wonderful resources were 
yet locked in the silence of past ages; hence when 
William H. Seward, as Secretary of State, on the 30th 
day of March, 1867, negotiated a treaty for the purchase 
of Alaska from the Russian Government for $7,200,000, 
many citizens thought it was a foolish move, fraught 
with danger, and for a long period of time the trans- 
action was dubbed “Seward’s Folly’. To most people, 
the purchase seemed a mystery. Why did Russia want 
to sell? Why should the United States buy? The 
Czar of Russia, it is generally believed, like Napoleon, 
who half a century before, sold what we know as the 


ALASKA oat 


Louisiana Purchase, desired to sell Alaska because he 
felt there would be danger of losing these possessions 
in the event of war; but this did not justify, in the 
minds of the opponents of the treaty, the purchase by 
the United States. 


Curiously enough, for a long period before (and 
all years subsequent until the disintegration of the 
Russian Government) there seemed to be the closest 
friendship between the two governments, Russia, the 
most despotic, the United States, the freest of any on 
earth. 


During the war of the rebellion, when our enemy 
the Aristocracy of England, were intriguing to aid the 
South, there appeared a Russian squadron in New York 
harbor, which was interpreted on both sides of the 
Atlantic to mean “Hands off” and left a lasting impres- 
sion of friendship in the minds of the people of the 
United States. 


There were other reasons that prompted our Gov- 
ernment to act. In the far off territory. of Washington, 
then struggling along with but a small population, there 
were men of far seeing vision who believed the fisheries 
of the adjacent seas would warrant the acquisition, 
and appealed to the Government at Washington, Report 
of the Committee on Foreign Affairs, 40th Congress, 
2nd Session, ‘aided by the representations of the Wash- 
ington territorial legislature, the attention of the gov- 
ernment was drawn to the subject, and a treaty nego- 
tiated for the purchase of Russian America by the 
United States.” 


The climate of Alaska along the Coast line is mild. 
The seasons are short, the area suitable for agyricul- 
ture comparatively small, hence we may not look to 
Alaska as an agricultural future state. The extensive 
tundras of Alaska furnish a vast natural feeding ground 
for the reindeer, estimated by experts sufficient in 
extent to perpetually support ten million or more rein- 
deer, which warrants the belief that eventually large 


S22 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


supplies of meat will be drawn from that source for 
consumption in other portions of the nation. The small 
herd introduced by the Government in 1892 has rapidly 
and regularly increased and now numbers over a 
hundred thousand head. The rapid increase the last 
two decades, if maintained will easily pass the million 
mark in another decade. 


SCENERY OF ALASKA 


Tourists never return from a trip to Alaska with- 
out showing by their countenances the enthusiasm within 
their breasts, a satisfaction following the greatest sights 
of Nature, the loftiest mountain, the largest active 
glacier, the largest and most active of existing volcanoes, 
one of the most violent of history according to recent 
exploration. Now comes the discovery of the “Ten 
thousand smokes” one of the ‘seven wonders of the 
world.” To match these gigantic manifestations of 
power and make them accessible, nearly two thousand 
square miles as a national park has been set apart 
for the sight-seeing people and preservation of this 
wonder of wonders. 


Lying at anchor a mile off the face of the Muir 
glacier, one can hear the roar of the falling ice into 
the bay and feel the swash of resultant waves visibly 
roll the ship as in an ordinary disturbed sea. 


No more than 30,000 people inhabited this vast 
region when acquired by the United States, a portion 
of whom were evidently of the Mongolian race. 


I can well remember when the Oregon country was 
called the ‘‘derelict’” of Nations and unfit for habita- 
tion of man. Now, over four million prosperous inhab- 
itants make their homes within its original borders, 
and so it will be within the memory of the child now 
born with this great northland, Alaska. The people will 
seek homes in the mild climate of the seaboard, now 
virtually a solitude, but no more so than the Oregon 
country when I first began to clear a farm that yielded 


ALASKA 323 


such extraordinary results as to make one shy of tell- 
ing the facts, lest he may be accused of exaggeration— 
bragging. 


The resources of the Alaskan territory are yet but 
slightly developed; the climate as we have seen, is varied 
and mild over a large area along the coast line and 
no doubt exists in the minds of observers that eventually 
a large population will settle and build homes within 
its border. The wealth of the territory has contributed 
and is yet contributing to the prosperity of Washington, 
as a great preponderance of the trade centers in the 
Puget Sound district. 


Since the purchase, by official report we learn the 
aggregate commerce has been $1,404,881,394. The 
mineral product, principally gold and copper 
$437,465.930. Fish, principally salmon, halibut and cod 
$413,749,222. Fur, $84,704,428 with miscellaneous to 
bring the whole aggregate to $937,704,424. 


Under the frozen earth of the interior are found 
deep down, a hundred feet beneath the surface, the 
mammoth bones of ancient extinct species, or imbedded 
in a glacier, ride on its slow passage to the sea. A 
land of contrarieties to puzzle the brain of man for 
centuries. 


Alaska is the hunter’s paradise for large game. 
Since the disappearance of the buffalo, there is nothing 
equals the great ranges of moose, caribou, mountain 
sheep, goat, deer, with thirteen varieties of bear, 
including the monster grizzly and polar. 


The caribou, the most widely distributed and most 
numerous, and like the buffalo of the Plains, migratory, 
have left their deep worn trails and still traverse them 
in vast numbers. 


A dispatch from British Columbia, received as 1 
write, under the headlines “Deer steak, via Airplane,” 
vividly illustrates scenes that are duplicated in numer- 
ous places of Alaska. 


324 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


“Northern Canada is swarming with countless herds 
of caribou, and musk ox. These Canadian herds are 
rapidly increasing in number. It is nothing unusual 
for one herd to require ten days in continuous proces- 
sion day and night to pass a given point, and the 
noise of this great parade vies with Niagara in volume.” 


The suggestive heading “Deer steak by airplane” 
may some day bear fruit in utilizing the vast wild herds 
roaming the inaccessible regions of Alaska; in any 
event, reveals the possibilities of the hunter’s paradise— 
an adventure to fairly stagger the imagination. 


I am tempted to quote from my “Busy Life’ of 
experience on the Plains in the year 1852 where lit- 
erally millions of buffalo roamed, to illustrate what I 
doubt not is duplicated in the vast unexplored regions 
of Alaska: 


“Well up the Platte but below Fort Laramie, we 
had the experience of a night stampede that struck 
terror to the very vitals of man and beast. It so hap- 
pened that evening we had brought our cattle into 
camp, a thing we did not usually do. We had driven | 
the wagons into a circle with the tongue of one wagon 
chained to the hind axle tree of the one in front, with 
the cattle inside the circle and the tents outside. I 
slept in the wagon that night which was not often, 
for usually I would be out on the range with the oxen, 
and if I slept at all, snugged up close to Dandy’s back. 
My partner, William Buck, was in the tent nearby 
and sleeping on the ground, likewise Brother Oliver. 


“We first heard the approaching storm, and almost 
instantly every animal in the corral was on his feet. 
Just then the alarm was given and all hands turned 
out, not yet knowing what caused the general com- 
motion. <A roar like an approaching storm could be 
heard in the distance. We can liken it to the roar of a 
heavy railroad train on a still night passing at no great 
distance. As by instinct all suddenly seemed to know 
what was approaching, the tents were emptied of their 


ALASKA 325 


inmates, the weak parts of the corral guarded, the 
frightened cattle looked after, and everyone in the 
camp alert to watch what was coming. 


“In the darkness of the night we could soon see the 
form of the foremost leader and then such dense masses 
that one could not distinguish one from the other. How 
long they were passing, we forgot to note; it seemed 
like an age. When daylight came a few stragglers 
were yet to be seen and fell under the unerring aim of 
the frontierman’s rifle. Our neighbors in camp did not 
escape loss. Some were detained for days gathering 
up their scattered stock, while again others were 
unable to find them, and never did recover them.” 


Of the smaller game of Alaska, the fox and beaver 
are the most numerous and most valuable. A member 
of the Geological Survey party in 1916 under the 
caption of “A game country without rival in America” 
reporting the presence of beaver, “Night after night 
we would hear the sharp splash of the swimming 
animals as they whacked their tails upon the surface 
of the stream. Beaver are protected by law until 1920, 
and under this protection have greatly increased in 
numbers. In the lowlands they have so much obstructed 
all the smaller streams with their dams that foot travel 
overland is impossible until ice forms.” Rue a daa 


“We saw a good many foxes and found two dens around 
which young ones were playing.” Again, “In the pass 
between Taklat and Stony Rivers the two pack trains 
and eight men stood in the midst of a vast herd of cari- 
bou, scattered for miles in all directions.” From the 
same observer, I quote, “The mountains at the head of 
the Taklat and Telanike rivers literally swarm with the 
magnificent white big horn sheep.” Se 9 Ryd Mita a Ne: 
I have counted over 300 in a single day’s journey of 
ten miles. 


These sights, under the very shadow of Mt. McKin- 
ley, rearing its head 20,000 feet above sea level, the 
highest of any on the continent, with its proximity to 


326 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


the greatest voleanic eruption of history, are unique 
and beyond the power of description. 


Mount Kamar, where “it is evident that the present 
mountain is merely a stub of a much greater peak of 
former days,” + (* -°* where “ash was thrown 
900 miles away, great quantities of fine dust were 
thrown into the higher regions of the atmosphere and 
quickly distributed over the whole world,” inspires a 
feeling of indescribable awe of the wonders of this 
truly wonderland. And then, as if this was not enough 
we read “I can never forget my sensation at the sight 
which met my eyes, (The Ten Thousand Smokes) as I 
surmounted the valley; for there, stretching as far as 
the eye could reach, till the valley turned behind a 
blue mountain in the distance were hundreds, aye 
thousands, of little voleanoes like those we had just 
examined. Many of them were sending up columns 
of steam which rose a thousand feet before dissolving” 
(our Yellowstone a pigmy in comparison). (See foot 
note.) 


There is nothing small about Alaska; surely its 
future must be great. Lying to the north and west 
of the first island of the Aleutian Chain and three thous- 
and miles west of the mainland in latitude 55°, longi- 
tude 170°, a little speck shows on the map, discovered 
in 1788, by Gerassium Pribiloff (a Russian navigator), 
and now bearing his name that has become famous the 
world over by its once great seal herd that annually 
came to its rocky shore. It reads like a legend though 
doubtless is true history, that when discovered the seal 
herd numbered over four million and finally under mis- 
management of our government and pelagic sealing 
had dwindled to less than 150,000, but which, by recent 
intelligent management, has in the last eight years, 
been increased to over half a million herd. 


Jan. 1917, Feb. 1918. 
Foot Note:—The National Geographical magazine, Aug. 1912, Feb. 1913, 


ALASKA PA 


Notwithstanding the gross mismanagement with 
consequent depletion of the herd and subsequent 
increase, the value of the skins taken has yielded to 
our government since the purchase, the princely sum of 
$55,370,700, not including 1920. 


The seal rookeries, now that pelagic sealing is pro- 
hibited, are destined to yield a great revenue (many 
millions a year), which under the present management 
is annually increasing. Verily, the simple facts read 
like a fairy story. 


Fox farming has proven profitable and already six 
islands have been leased for that industry. 


There are seven varieties listed, of value for each 
pelt from $24.00 to $166.00. 


During the year 1917, 18,339 pelts were shipped 
of a total value of $588,938. 


There are five specimens of bear listed, viz: Black, 
Brown, Glacier, Grizzly and Polar. 1,288 pelts were 
shipped during the year 1917 of the agregate value of 
$21,739. The lynx contributed 21,210 pelts, valued 
at $296,940, the mink, 18,832, $75,328. Muskrat 72,264, 
$32,518, during the year 1917, beside the seal was 
$1,064,399.55. Seal skins valued at $274,200, making 
a grand total for furs for 1917 of $1,338,599.55. 


Of this Northland so closely associated in interests 
commercially, socially and future destiny with Wash- 
ington, I am sometimes tempted to treat them as one. 
The development of one aids the other and go hand 
in hand. The cities of Puget Sound all participate in 
the benefits incident to the development of Alaska. Our 
citizens have large interests in the great territory and 
vice versa, the citizens of Alaska look upon Washington 
as their home State which they frequent for recreation, 
for investment often of surplus gains and for supplies 
incident to a civilized life. 


328 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


Without Alaska Washington would not now have 
attained the commanding development that is her pride; 
without Alaska, the future of this State would be far 
less bright than now lies in store for her; with Alaska 
pouring her treasures of resources into the lap of 
Washington, the State is destined to become the most 
populous of any of the Union in proportion to its area, 
its cities destined to grow, agriculture to flourish under 
the stimulus of a home market and its commerce, to 
expand to the commanding position second to none. 


CHAPTER XLII. 
INCIDENTS ON THE OREGON TRAIL 


Progress in speed and comfort of present modes of 
travel over that of seventy years ago is well known by 
all observant readers, hence I need spend but scant time 
on that topic. “Seeing is believing’, the old adage tells 
us, but let me add that experience is knowing and with- 
out such first knowledge one cannot gain the vivid 
impression that follows in the wake of actual partici- 
pation in the change, leastwise I did not, until after 
crossing over the Oregon trail with the ox team at a 
gait of two miles an hour for a thousand hours and 
afterwards substantially over the same route at forty 
miles an hour, and finally to cap the climax, near a 
hundred miles in the airplane at a speed of more than 
a mile a minute. 


The track of the Oregon trail remains in solitude 
where travel has been diverted to easier grades or past 
centers of population, yet the reminder of the far- 
reaching results is still vividly in mind; without that 
wonderful thoroughfare, the longest of any in recorded 
history, the great throng of American home builders 
bound for the Oregon country would have been delayed 
at the critical time when the ownership of that country 
hung in the balance between the United States and 
Great Britain. 


It is not my design, however, here to discuss the 
mooted question of who “saved Oregon.” In my “Busy 
Life”, still in print, a full history of the Oregon Trail 
is given, together with a detailed account of the three 
trips with the ox-team over the whole length of the 
trail between the Missouri River and the Puget Sound 
Basin, one of them extended to the Atlantic and to 
Washington City. 


330 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


In all these writings, pressed for space, the high 
points were not touched. To cover everyday incidents 
of small account of drives aggregating near eight thous- 
and miles in a volume of a few hundred pages was 
impossible, so now, I propose in this story, shall I call 
it,—camp-fire tales—no matter what we call it, take 
you into the innermost experiences of life on the 
Plains. I have not done this before, as I have said, 
for want of space and further, because it could not 
be done otherwise than by a very personal story from 
which as a younger man I shrank. Well now, that I 
have garnered years, that feeling has left me; what of 
it even if some party did criticize; would that hurt me? 
Not at all now. 


I will not undertake to cover many miles in these 
familiar stories or to “clean up” as we go and with 
the promise the stories shall be true but will not confine 
myself to either particular trip or to any particular 
place—rather a hop-skip scatterment as the spirit may 
move me. 


When fitting up for the second trip (1906) to go out 
on the trail to mark it with stone monuments, nearly 
all of my friends refused to aid in any shape or manner 
but did their utmost to persuade me not to undertake 
the trip and not content at that, to persuade others as 
a friendly act not to encourage the outfitting in any 
way. A favorite daughter said if I went out on the 
trail with an old yoke of oxen the people would laugh 
at me and I did not feel sure but they would. But 
what if they did? Was that any reason why I should 
not undertake the mission, I and my life partner, the 
wife, had cherished for forty years. 


The first obstacle to be met was to get a yoke of 
oxen; oxen had gone into discard and none could be 
found within a circle of a hundred miles; then the ox- 
driver; none anywhere to be heard of. I didn’t mind 
that so much, as I knew I could drive them myself if 
I had to; then the wagon. That had to be built, a real 


INCIDENTS OF THE OREGON TRAIL Sak 


old fashioned “Prairie Schooner’, wooden axle, with 
linch pins and the tar bucket and many other little 
things to represent the real old Plains trip of sixty 
years before. 


The remains of three old wagons that had crossed the 
plains more than half a century before were secured 
and a wagon built nearly all out of new selected 
material; the work so well done that after a twenty-two 
months’ drive the repair bill had been only fifty cents, 
when, at the end of the journey I drove on to the White 
House grounds in Washington City. 


But I am getting ahead of my story. At last a yoke 
of oxen was found, but one of them entirely unsuitable 
for the trip. I had to buy both to get the one which 
I named Twist. I took Twist down to the stock yards 
at Tacoma and left him there until some expected heavy 
steers should arrive, a band of five-year olds off the 
ranges of Montana. I had the pick of sixty and chose 
one because I liked the look of the eye, the build, and 
furthermore appeared to be the heaviest of the lot. 
The first move was to get a rope on him which the 
stock yard men speedily did and turned the remainder 
out of the corral, but when it came to getting a yoke on 
him, the men were shy, as the fight with the steer began 
at once. But by perseverance the yoke was put on him, 
the Twist ox led up to take the other end of it and the 
rope unfastened. Then the “circus” began; the infuri- 
ated steer would lunge forward and in that way turn 
Twist around and around, sometimes jumping stiff- 
legged, snorting, bellowing and I wouldn’t say what 
else he didn’t do. I told the men to open the gate. They 
said he would get away from me. ‘Open the gate,” I 
said, perhaps a little sternly, and they opened it, and 
in a few minutes I lost sight of them but knew I could 
track them, leastwise had tracked many an ox on the 
plains in 1852. Once on the road to Puyallup, eight 
miles distant, bordered all the way with heavy timber 
and thick underbrush, a veritable lane, I felt quite 
safe but did feel that perhaps I had caught a tartar, 


832 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


but was relieved when I securely roped him in my stable 
at Puyallup and the yoke off. 


Both oxen were quite well fagged out and I confess 
that I felt a little the worse for wear and half wondered 
to myself whether I really was making a foolish move; 
whoever is reading this story must remember I lacked 
but a few days of being seventy-six years old. 


Hunger is a great pacifier, with animals as well as 
with men. Next morning I went to the stable and 
offered him some hay out of my hand but he shook his 
head, threatened me—showed fight and I left him. 
I mean this same steer that had given us so much trouble 
the day before. I then named him Dave. He became 
famous as the largest trained ox I could hear of any- 
where in the United States but that is about all that 
could be said in his favor for I never could trust either 
his heels or his horns. He gained 860 pounds in the 
eight years I had him under the yoke and had driven 
him over 8,000 miles; he measured sixteen hand and 
one inch high and never was lame on the whole trip. 


On the third day Dave ate some hay out of my hand, 
licked up some chop feed with a relish and began to 
relent. After a few days of drill with the wagon on the 
roads near Puyallup the start was made on the trip 
to become known as the Oregon Trail Monument Expe- 
dition, with final result of one hundred and sixty gran- 
ite monuments and markers. Thirty of these were 
under my supervision and the remainder by the States 
of Idaho, Wyoming and Nebraska, all within a period 
of five years from the date of planting the first one 
at Tenino, Washington. 


I will now skip three hundred miles to The Dalles, 
Oregon, a city of 5,000 inhabitants, to a new date, 
March 9th. We are nearing the City at nightfall, having 
shipped from Portland through the Columbia river gap 
on the river steamer, Bailey Gatzert. 


In accordance with previous arrangements, Goebel 
left for home and so, with Twist and Dave and the dog 


INCIDENTS OF THE OREGON TRAIL 333 


Jim, we were left sole occupants of the camp with the 
high-sounding name of the “Oregon Trail Monument 
Expedition.” 


The mention of “Jim”, the dog referred to, reminds 
me I have not given him his place in the story as he 
was in at the beginning. Jim was a character; like 
Mardon, to be mentioned later, he would fight at the 
drop of a hat, though neither of them quarrelsome. 


I first saw Jim in my neighbor James’ garden driv- 
ing his neighbor’s chickens out of the berry patch. 
He did not rush in and scatter the flock but carefully 
edged up and followed as his game gave way. It was 
so deftly done I asked Mr. James if he had trained him 
but he said not. “That the dog had just ‘took up the 
trick’.”’ I at once put at James to let me have him to 
go on my trip but he said he would have to get his boy’s 
consent; finally a present of $5.00 fixed things all 
right and Jim became an important member of the 
expedition and remained with me for six years and to 
within a few days of the final end of the second trip. 
Jim and I became fast friends; not so with Jim and 
Dave. Dave hooked at Jim the very first chance he 
got, made a lunge at him and snorted as though he 
would eat him up alive if he had a chance and the two 
then and there became deadly enemies and never re- 
lented to the last. Jim, I have often said, came to 
understand English better than many men I met on the 
trip. He was a young dog, just in his ’teens, as we 
would speak of a young sprig of a boy, but very 
receptive. He soon learned many phrases spoken with- 
out especial emphasis and was very willing to mind. I 
have seen him sit on his haunches and turn his head 
first one way and then the other as much as to say, 
“T did not quite catch what you said.” He was intense 
in his likes and dislikes. Mardon once suddenly gath- 
ered on him and threw him off a bridge into the river 
below. I am sure that after a thousand miles travel, 
Jim did not forget nor forgive the insult. Finally 
when he got run over by a truck near Kansas city, 


334 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


lost some of his teeth and for a while not able to swal- 
low, only either milk or thin porridge, and Mardon 
cared tenderly for him, Jim relented and he and 
Mardon became fast friends. 


Well, as I was saying, Goebel had left; the smoke 
filled the tent, the fire wouldn’t burn, only by fits and 
spells according as the wind shifted; snow had fallen 
and covered the ground; the oxen were unprotected 
from the storm and all in all, I didn’t feel very cheerful. 


At this juncture next morning someone from the 
outside pushed the flap of the tent aside, peeked in and 
said, “I heard you wanted help.” “Come in,” I 
answered. Scanning the stranger the thought passed 
through my mind that this was: not the kind of help 


I wanted. “Can you drive oxen?’ “No, but I can 
learn; I have camped a good deal.” ‘Then you ought 
to know how to cook.” “Try me.” I was in a mood 


to try almost anything for I hadn’t had any breakfast 
and but a “pick up” supper the night before. Sure 
enough he did know how to cook and it was not long 
before I sniffed the fumes of coffee while attending to 
the oxen outside the tent and soon forgot the smoke, the 
depression of spirit or thought of failure. 


I was camped on historic ground. Pulpit Rock on 
which Jason Lee used to climb and preach to the 
Indians, reared its head fifteen feet high, renowned as 
a landmark to register the daring deeds of the early 
missionaries. The monument to be unveiled and dec- 
orated stood nearby. I did not need much preparation 
for the dedication speech, for I was “full of it’? and 
wanted to say more than I had time to speak. All 
things combined to make a cheerful time and everybody 
went away feeling better for having participated in 
perpetuating the memory of the pioneers and marking 
the track they had trodden. 


A ludicrous incident had occurred of which at the 
time I was ignorant. The ladies, hearing about my 
mission and that I was coming, put their heads together, 


INCIDENTS OF THE OREGON TRAIL 3390 


suitably inscribed a granite slab, put it in place and 
awaited the arrival of the ox-team. Some wag seeing 
it, sedately asked, “Who’s dead?” The next day the 
slab disappeared and a suitable monument goon took its 
place. 


Fourteen days have passed and we have reached 
Pendleton, Oregon, 13814 miles out from The Dalles— 
nearly ten miles a day; pretty slow traveling you say. 
Wait a minute and see if it was worth while. “Yes, 
we want a monument,” and in a couple of hours the 
money to pay for it provided and the stone cutters 
set to work. 


On the third day the schools were out in marching 
order; some of the stores closed; all hands moved 
toward the spot where the monument stood, a mile 
distant; some on horseback, some in buggies; more on 
foot; enough to crowd the sidewalks, the children march- 
ing in the street behind the ox-team; I knew then 
what I was not certain of before I left home, that 
the daughter’s prophecy would not come true; that the 
people would not laugh at me for going out on the 
road with an “old yoke of oxen.” 


If this scene described did lighten my drooping 
spirits, it did not lift the question of doubt as the 
Blue Mountains lay straight ahead of me and everybody 
said I couldn’t get over them so early in the season. 
Here is where I stripped for the real fight. I simply 
said I couldn’t know unless I tried, and I meant to try. 


Someone, somehow, had got hold of an incident that 
had occurred in Portland where the trustees of the 
Unitarian Church had refused me the church in which 
to lecture because they would do nothing to “encourage” 
that old man (a brother in the Church) to go out on 
the Plains “to die.” I had heard this whispered before I 
left Portland but how on earth the story had out-trav- 
eled me, I did not know. I did not mean to go out on 
the Plains to die. I simply didn’t share in their fear. 
I knew, or thought I knew, that if I really got stalled, 


336 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


I could take the back track and travel out of danger 
and so I lightened up the load over the mountains 
by shipping everything I could spare by the railroad 
and prepared for the battle, if it came to a battle. 
And so, when the little monument was snugly in place, 
the songs of the school children ended and the sedate 
business men returned to their counters, without further 
ado, I struck the road for the Indian reservation six 
miles distant and to the point where the mountain 
climb began. 


In less than a mile’s travel, a terrible rain and wind 
storm was encountered and continued until the reser- 
vation was reached and later. To say there was a dry 
thread of clothing on my back would hardly express it; 
if I had worn boots like I did in 1852, I am sure they 
would have been full of water, for I had experienced 
just such a storm in the Platte Valley and did catch 
both boots full of water. 


Lo, and behold, the agent was not at home when 
we arrived at the reservation and nobody seemed to have 
authority to tell us where to go or what to do so I 
drove to the lee side of an outbuilding, took possession 
of an open shed for the oxen, helped myself to feed for 
them and knockd at the door of the mess house where 
I was made welcome at the table. After spending a 
pleasant evening with the employees of the agency and 
drying my clothes while on me, and the agent not 
appearing, I clambered into the wagon without light or 
heat, curled down with my clothes on and slept soundly 
until morning. 


When morning came, some cars from off the mount- 
ain run passed with a heavy top load of snow. Word 
was passed that two feet of snow had fallen in the 
mountains within the last twenty-four hours. Now 
this was a “pretty kettle of fish” as the western phrase 
would express it. JI well remembered the drive over 
these mountains in 1852; the scattering pine trees, the 
absence of undergrowth; the hard surface and absence 
of sunken roads to guide one. Well, to say the least, 


INCIDENTS OF THE OREGON TRAIL 337 


it was a “stumper” and set me to thinking. It didn’t 
take me long to conclude. I would go out and spy out 
the land. The agent had returned. “Move into that 
house,” he said, “help yourself to wood and feed for 
the oxen and just make yourself at home.” I willingly 
obeyed his order. That night I boarded a train for a 
station near the summit and just past midnight arrived 
at Meachem where I had been told I could find a hotel. 
The train passed on immediately and left me on the 
platform; not a light or sign of habitation to be seen 
anywhere. After wandering around a little while, 
I finally found an open door and a bed and as usual 
slept soundly until late in the morning. 


At this point the wagon road reached and crossed 
the railroad. Off to the east a few hundred yards a 
little mountain rivulet crossed the road in a small open- 
ing to mark the spot known far and wide as “Lee’s 
Encampment.” The popular mind associated the name 
of that of Robert E. Lee, the confederate commander, 
but we pioneers knew different. 


The location of the “Encampment” had become a 
legend in the popular mind and in fact, we cannot say 
there is a record of an encampment at this point. We 
know that on the first day of September, 1834, Lee 
and his four companions reached the foot of the Blue 
Mountains on his way to Walla Walla (now Wallula) 
on the Columbia River. 


No other point east or west of this grassy opening 
and convenient water for many miles on the trail is 
found so suitable for camping hence we feel assured 
this is the identical spot upon which the weary party 
encamped and rested. 


Jason Lee was the first missionary to cross the 
continent. He preceded Marcus Whitman by two years. 
The Methodist conference sent him to convert the In- 
dians and save their souls from everlasting torment by 
embracing the Christian religion. This remark may 
bring a protest from some readers as irreverent and 


338 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


untrue; it is neither. As a lad in my ’teens in “Old 
Indiana” I often listened to the fervent prayers and 
sermons of Methodist preachers describing a lake of 
burning fire provided by God to torment the souls of 
unbelievers. Well, the Methodist people who believed 
this doctrine were justified in making strenuous efforts 
to save souls from this dire calamity and whatever may 
be said of the belief we can but admire the intrepid 
soldiers of the cross that were willing to give up every- 
thing, even life itself, for the cause. 


Lee was one of them; Whitman was another and 
there were many more such, ready for the sacrifice 
before it became manifest that their efforts to convert 
the Indians were doomed to fail: as Rev. Parker, co- 
worker with Whitman put it, when he told them old 
testament stories, they were pleased but when he told 
them of the “Great Truth” (meaning the doctrine of 
eternal damnation) they would not listen (and I don’t 
blame them). 


The missionaries, however, did a great work for 
the nation, for their own kith and kin. They opened 
the way and planted the seed that brought floods of 
home-builders to the Oregon country. All hail to the 
intrepid Missionaries, although they builded different 
than they knew; they also builded better than they or 
their generation knew. 


I said to myself, here is a place for a monument, but 
how to get one did not at the moment appear. 


Twenty inches of snow had fallen but was settling 
fast, sufficient to say that two days’ tug of war with 
the help of a mountaineer’s team for a few miles, landed 
the outfit in sight of Lee’s Encampment, but with one 
night encampment on the snow and with but once 
stalled in a snow bank. 


We will now skip about fifty miles to camp No. 
34, at a farmhouse. At this camp, April 12, the Twist 
ox kicked me and almost disabled my right knee, a 


INCIDENTS OF THE OREGON TRAIL 339 


very serious mishap and depriving me of the full use of 
it for a month; the pain was so excruciating, 1 lost 
my sight for the moment and consented to be taken 
into the farmhouse nearby. The good lady soon brought 
out some linament and bandages and proved to be a 
veritable good samaritan. This was the only accident 
that befell me on the whole twenty-two month trip 
across the continent and to Washington City. 


“Now what shall I do?” said Mardon, when the 
leg was dressed and comfortably resting on a chair 
while I ate a breakfast the “Good Samaritan” had pro- 
vided before I knew what she was doing. I can never 
know, but will always believe the good lady derived as 
great pleasure in providing for me as I did in receiving 
her kindly acts. God bless the ladies and this one in 
particular for I needed something to cheer me up. [ 
did fear my knee was permanently injured, even if no 
bones were broken and that I would have to accept the 
kind offer of a friend who would not help me to outfit 
the trip but when ready for the start said, “If you 
get in a hobble out on the plains and need help, just 
telegraph me and I will respond.” I knew that was the 
feeling of more than one of my friends at home, as 
expressed to me when ready to go and on the point 
of leaving. 


“What shall we do with all this stuff?”” Mardon asked 
when we had been in camp at Baker City for a couple 
of days. “That’s not stuff,’ I answered, “that’s good- 
will;” and it is more, we are not going to starve, what- 
ever else may happen. The camp in the heart of the 
city; the novelty of the old-time wagon; the slick, clean 
oxen (curried and brushed twice a day); the intelli- 
gent, attractive dog, Jim; the white-haired old man, 
limping around with cane in hand, scarcely able to walk, 
did certainly draw the crowds and with them, an 
enthusiasm for the work in hand. The ladies, not for- 
getful of the inner man had “dumped’’, I had liked to 
have said but that is not the word, presented, is a better 


340 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


way of expressing it, of the very fat of the land, 
accompanied with dainties. 


Aside from the great value from a historical point 
of view of this and similar letters written “on the spot”, 
while incidents are vividly in mind, this particular one 
reviews old-time memories and emotions that cannot 
be described adequately to convey the intense feelings 
aroused. When fifty-six years after the events narrated 
in his letter we first met in Colonel Allen’s elegant 
home in Pittsburg, Penn., the cordial welcome mingled 
with tears and mirth leaves a memory too precious 
to disclose, it must be experienced to be appreciated. 


Let us skip in date to September 12, 1852. Location, 
the right bank of Snake River, just below the mouth 
of Boise River and near the old Hudson’s Bay Fort 
Boise; scene, a throng of tired, discouraged immigrants 
pressing forward toward the Oregon country, many 
sick, some dying on the spot, all fleeing from threaten- 
ing famine. At this junction, myself and brother 
Oliver, appeared on the scene. We had shouldered our 
blankets and a small supply of food and pressed for- 
ward afoot, leaving our teams to slowly advance. Here 
we met and joined hands with Edward J. Allen, who, 
after his arrival, became so prominent in the affairs of 
the new territory (of Washington) and later Colonel 
of a Pennsylvania regiment during the war of the rebel- 
lion. The following letter, written on the spot, came 
into my possession more than sixty years after it 
was written. 


Excerpts from Col. Edward Jay Allen’s “Over the 
Oregon Trail,” a Series of letters written to his fam- 
ily in Pittsburgh, Penn., from his journey across the 
continent by ox-team in 1852. 


(From Lewis River, Idaho, Sept. 12, 1852) 


“«  *  * While considering these things we 
found that there was only one little flat here to carry all 
the thronging immigration at this last crossing of the 


INCIDENTS OF THE OREGON TRAIL 341 


Snake River; the immigrants were subjected to great 
delay and extortionate prices. These conditions led to 
the formation of the ‘Pennsylvania Ferry Company’. 
We thought. we could do well for ourselves and make 
reasonable prices for the immigrants. We had all the 
men necessary and we needed all we had; the river 
was running silently but with great swiftness. Such 
Sweeps as we would have could not avail against such a 
current, but only propel us across, quartering to gain 
some assistance from this stream, we had to start well 
above our point of crossing and, sweeping over, would 
land nearly half a mile below on the other side, and 
after crossing we would cordelle half a mile up on that 
side to repeat the performance. We lashed two of our 
wagon-beds more securely together and decking them 
over so as to run the wagons on without peril. 


We set to work immediately constructing our land- 
ings (it seemed odd there was no corporation taxing us 
for the privilege) and settled the location of our lodge— 
emphatically “in some vast wilderness.” This wickeyup, 
made of willows in the style of architecture prevalent 
hereabouts, was tolerably comfortable and remarkably 
well ventilated. 


We were now ready for business and crossed a train 
that afternoon, the immigrants bearing a hand in the 
cordelling. One of the members of that company, 
thinking ferrying a good business, fitted up his wagon- 
bed and started in as ferryman, so that there was a 
quicker transit and less delay.” 


“We were kept tolerably busy at our ferry. Our 
neighbors had the best boats but we did matters up 
more reasonably and honorably and got the best part 
of the ferrying; it seemed a good opportunity in this 
primitive country to restore the original method of 
trade wherein both parties should profit by the oper- 
ation—that we should offer a good service cheaper and 
better than they could do it for themselves and receive 
a reasonable compensation for it without taking advant- 


342 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


age of their necessities, and that they should make a 
reasonable and just acceptance of the fact that service 
was to be measured here more generously than at home. 
We went on this basis, which was probably the more 
easily adjusted because it was not a matter of consul- 
tation with the others, it rested entirely with us who 
had the whip hand. There is no government so satis- 
factory as an absolute monarchy if the autocrat has 
justice and judgment, but he must be saturated with 
both, and forgetful of self. I think we decided fairly 
and there was no complaint. 


As for the many who were unable to pay and were 
crossed regardless thereof, that is another story. 


*  * —* Swept down by the current in crossing 
the river, we had to land some distance below our 
starting point and therefore had to cordelle quite a 
distance up the beach to a higher point on that side 
to make allowance for the drift.” 


“When the trains came up we had a good deal of 
competition, some keen Yankees stopping behind to 
imitate our ferrying; after one or two trips resulting 
in swamped boats, and a brief try of the cordelling 
operation, they girded up their loins and departed 
thence.” 


“We saw a great deal of distress and much of sorrow 
and bereavement in our avocation, and trust me when I 
state that “The Pennsylvania Ferry Company”, collect- 
ively and individually, in no wise reflected discredit on 
the fair reputation of the State for fair dealing, nor 
did violence to their own feelings as men and fellow- 
creatures in their dealings with the poor and distressed. 
If a man had money we ferried him over, and if he 
hadn’t we ferried as cheerfully as though we were 
paid for our labor, and bidding him Godspeed, sent 
him on his journey with good wishes. I wish to remark 
in passing that we expected every able-bodied man, 
money or no money, to take a generous hand in the 
cordelling business. If there was any lingering sus- 


INCIDENTS OF THE OREGON TRAIL 343 


picion that our charges were too high, a brief spell at 
that dispiriting performance brought a new point of 
view. Provisions we had none to spare, as money 
would not buy them, and my heart ached many a time 
as we ferried the poor moneyless families and toil-worn 
immigrants and, looking at their stocks, saw how scanty 
they were and thought how far they would have to go 
before they could renew them. 


We ferried over many such, penniless and disheart- 
ened widows without number, whose husbands had died 
on the route, for it seemed the suffering was greater 
at the rear of the immigration, with many, very many 
sick. I never before saw so much suffering nor so many 
cases of individual hardship. 


One woman died in crossing and in this case our 
indignation was aroused for the poor creature had died 
of sheer neglect. She should never have traveled in 
her condition; her company should at all risks and 
hazards have lain by. She lay dead, or dying unwit- 
nessed by anyone, and when I looked in the wagon after 
we landed she was so covered by the dust of the road 
she had come through as to be scarcely recognizable. 
A strong man would have died under such conditions, 
much more certainly the weak, delicate woman she 
seemed to be. There was a good deal of excited feeling 
about it and some of our men hunted up the husband, 
a robust man, and took him to where lay the mother of 
his children; but he showed so much real feeling and 
distress and was so overwhelmed by the stroke that 
they thought if he had been wanting in attention and 
thought for her he would have a future of remorse, and 
so let him go. I think he would never know how near 
he came to closing his journey at Fort Boise. 


The mournful wagon with the dead mother and three 
orphan children rolled on. It was estimated that five 
thousand people died on the plains that year. The 
general hardships and dangers of the Trail were sup- 
plemented by the cholera in its most virulent form.” 


344 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


“All the boys of my original party had left except 
Kountz, who had concluded to wait longer, finding oppor- 
tunity to send his wife on the train. Two of our part- 
ners in the earlier organization, two brothers by the 
name of Meeker, had opportunity to sell out their 
interest for $185.00 and had also gone. So we had 
two new associations in our ferry, one of whom, named 
McClure, was a fine old fellow whom I liked much.” 


CHAPTER XLIII. 


THE INDIANS 


I approach writing this chapter on Indians and Indian 
affairs and progress with reluctance, or shall I say with 
hesitation—almost, as one might say, with diffidence, not 
because my views have changed since writing a partial 
history of the Indian wars within the borders of the 
territory, now State of Washington, nearly twenty years 
ago, but because I am loath to revive the animosities 
that accompanied that recital. That history covered 
only Western Washington and is accessible to the reader 
in numerous libraries throughout the State and it is not 
my design to repeat the incidents of that war, or for 
that matter, any of the wars to be considered in the 
extended scope to be reviewed, but rather to note the 
advance—progress, shall I not say, in the treatment of 
the Indian question by our Government and the progress 
of the Indians themselves. 


When the territory was created, the estimate of fif- 
teen thousand Indians, I believe, was under the 
actual number within the borders of the territory. We 
know by actual enumeration there were less than four 
thousand American citizens and less than nine hundred 
male adults. George Gibbs, after a painstaking review, 
estimated the number of Indians west of the Cascade 
Mountains at that time at 8,000. 


No treaties with the Indians had been made. Accord- 
ing to the fiction of dual governments within the borders 
of the United States, of treating Indians as independent 
nations—rightful owners of the soil, we pioneers were 
here as interlopers, as marauders assuming ownership 
without shadow of title; without compensation to the 
Owners, or even so much as asking “By your leave.” 
It was this fiction, promulgated from the beginning of 
the life of the nation and continued for nearly a century 


346 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


that brought such indescribable calamities without num- 
ber upon hapless peoples, both Indians and whites. 


The defects of the system, or more accurately speak- 
ing, lack of system—fiction—is told in the quotations that 
follow from “The Tragedy of Leschi’, my own work of 
fifteen years ago in writing of the Indian war of West- 
ern Washington. 


“The Government had adopted, first, possibly from 
necessity and afterwards from force of precedent, the 
fiction of Indian Nationalities, of independent governing 
powers within the territory of the United States, as 
unsound in principle as it was unjust and fatal to both 
races. It required the experience of a century to bring 
about the final overthrow of the treaty theory of dealing 
with the Indians; of dealing with them as organized and 
independent communities; of treating with them in one 
breath as tribes and in the next as dependents (which 
they were) ; of ackowledging their ownership of the soil 
on the one hand while grasping it firmly with the other; 
of making professions of peace, when under prevailing 
conditions there could be no peace and finally professing 
the desire to have them adopt the habits of civilized life 
while driving them into conditions to make such a life 
impossible. This writing is not intended as a wholesale 
denunciation of our government for its dealings with the 
Indian race. A goverment that has expended over five 
hundred million dollars on its civil list in an attempt to 
better the condition of less than three hundred thousand 
is not a goverment to condemn without stint. The con- 
ditions confronting the government were abnormal and 
of necessity in a way experimental. Grave blunders were 
made—blunders, not of the heart, but from a supposed 
necessity to keep peace, yet none the less fatal to the 
welfare of the frontiersman as to the native race. This 
fatal policy has now all been changed by a four line 
proviso in a thirty page appropriation bill, approved 
March 3rd, 1871, as follows: ‘‘Provided, that hereafter 
no Indian nation or tribe within the territory of the 
United States shall be acknowledged or recognized as an 


THE INDIANS 347 


independent nation, tribe, or power with whom the 
United States may contract by treaty. 


“Had this proviso been the law of the land twenty 
years before, there would have been no Indian war west 
of the Cascade Mountains. I speak with great confi- 
dence from the fact that where treaties were not made, 
as with the Chehalis band or tribe, and others, no war 
ensued. It is true, a large majority of the Indians who 
entered into treaty stipulations remained friendly, and 
that not necessarily because a treaty is made that war 
must ensue, but this does not alter the fact that the 
making of the Medicine Creek and Point Elliot treaties 
was the sole cause of the war that followed, that caused 
the horrible massacre mentioned, that drove the pioneers 
from their homes, the Indians into either hiding, the 
war camp, or the worse and more demoralizing, depen- 
dent pauper-making camps to be fed by the government.” 


Since the passage of this provision (March 8, 1871) 
no more treaties with Indians have been made. This 
great progressive step has borne fruit although much time 
elapsed, as in all great reforms, before a full measure 
of benefit could be experienced. There were existent treat- 
ies that must be observed; trust funds in the hands of 
the government to administer; the fiction that the child 
born to parents that had themselves been born within 
the boundaries of the United States was not entitled to 
citizenship still remained. The aftermath of treaties 
and fiction of dual citizenship remained and Indian wars 
continued, notably that of the great chief Joseph. 


It is unprofitable to dwell on the shortcomings or the 
sins of omission and commission of our ancestors unless 
Wwe can point to a better way. 


Speaking for myself, I believe a child born in the 
United States whether white, black, or Indian should be 
considered a citizen and subject in all respect to our 
laws; that there should be a national compulsory edu- 
cational law and funds provided to carry the law into 
effect ; that the Indian child should be compelled to receive 


348 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


an English common school education and be accorded the 
right to become a voter at the age of maturity the same 
as any other native born American—in a word, treat the 
Indians as individual American citizens with all the 
rights and responsibilities incidental to citizenship and 
not as a foregn element, or a dependent in our midst. 


It fell to my lot to live within five miles of the treaty 
ground when the first treaty, the “Medicine Creek” treaty 
was made. Representatives of nine tribes, or bands, 
appointed by the governor, with several hundred Indians 
were assembled. Nine hundred Indians were either 
present or supposed to be represented by the petty chiefs 
appointed. The treaty provided for the relinquishment 
of title to approximately 800 square miles. The reserve 
allotted to the Indians was six square miles, all fir timber 
land—hill land, entirely unsuitable for cultivation, habit- 
ation, or grazing. 

The congregated bands represented peoples of differ- 
ent habits, different tongues, different affiliations, but 
nothing in common. None of them could read or write 
his name and but few, if any, could understand the Eng- 
lish language; and but few understood what the pro- 
ceedings meant except that they were to receive some 
present. Leschi understood what it meant and refused 
to make his mark opposite his name, (that had been 
written in the document) to signify his consent and left 
the treaty ground in a rage. 


One case will suffice to illustrate the effect upon the 
Indians. Leschi (pronounced Lesh-ki), a Nisqually In- 
dian, possessed a farm, had fields fenced, plowed ground, 
grain seeded; 50 or more horses. He had, it is true, 
but a possessory right to his land. By the treaty he was 
dispossessed of this right. He was denied the right to 
own land; he was an outcast, dispossessed of this prop- 
erty. He refused to sign the treaty and finally was goaded 
to go to war within ten months after the treaty was 
made; eventually defeated in the field, sacrificed on the 
scaffold while his tribe came into possession of an en- 
larged reservation he had contended for from the begin- 
ning. 








CHIEF LESCHI 


THE INDIANS 349 


It is a pathetic story: Leschi was a great man; 
humane, liberal and just in his dealings, and trustworthy. 
I came to know almost every member of his tribe in my 
hop fields in later years and many, if not all, of his kin 
folks. They all had the same story to tell, besides the 
testimony of many pioneers. Leschi forbade his people 
making war on non-combatants and after he got control, 
succeeded in carrying out his policy. We have another 
illustration of like kind in the case of Chief Joseph; but 
that is another story in a different field, and will ke 
told by Mr. FitzGerald, the old scout with General How- 
ard, but who is now a citizen of Seattle. 


I have had long experience with Indians, for twenty 
years or more employing them in my hop fields. For 
a number of years I think there were at least a thous- 
and of them each year. We never had any serious 
trouble with them. Pardon me, readers, for speaking 
frankly of my own action. I am simply writing his- 
tory that can yet be abundantly verified. I do not 
claim special credit for my actions, for I treated the 
Indians under the same rule I did the white employees, 
that is, I never undertook to deceive them; strove to 
deal justly with them and exacted the same line of 
conduct from them, and must say that, with but few, 
very few exceptions, I had no complaint to make. Our 
farm tools and loose property on the premises were not 
placed under lock and key, yet were not molested. I 
will not say that a high moral sense of honor and 
honesty prevailed in the Indian character. I am simply 
relating a fact. Our Indian orphan boy, long with us, 
we trusted implicitly. He never betrayed the trust yet 
when admitting he had stolen some shirts from other 
Indian boys, and reminded he had never stolen from 
me, came back without guile: ‘You never stole from 
me.” In other words, the golden rule was reversed. 


This to an extent, illustrates the Indian character. 
If you deal fair and square with him and gain hig 
confidence, he will reciprocate and deal fair and square 
with you: If you attempt to deceive him, he justifies 


350 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


himself to deceive you if he can; if you inflict an injury 
upon him or any of his relatives, he will retaliate and 
become your implacable enemy and repay in kind with 
accumulated interest. 


Annuities doled out to tribes by our government have 
been the cause of demoralizing, not only the Indian, but 
many of our own race as well, is now in a measure 
discontinued. You can never make good citizens of 
indolent shirking dependents. The admonition of that 
great preacher and teacher, St. Paul, in his letter to 
the Thessalonians: “And if any would not work, 
neither should he eat,” laid down a golden rule that our 
government has, in former years observed in the breach. 
We can now record another progressive step in dealing 
with the Indians in discontinuance of this practice. 


Under the Medicine Creek treaty, the Puyallup tribe 
of Indians were allotted two sections (1280 acres) of 
high table land, now the heart of the city of Tacoma, 
but entirely unsuited to their wants and inadequate 
in extent; the Nisqually were similarly treated, or 
even worse. 


The Indians were defeated in the field while at the 
same time the government was defeated in the effort 
to enforce the terms of the treaty. At the close of the 
conflict the Indians were allotted the lands they con- 
tended for at the beginning. The local authorities con- 
tended the Indians were not warriors, but simply 
murderers, and acting under that fiction, actually hung 
the chief, Leschi, for acts alleged to have been com- 
mitted against military parties in the field after armies 
on both sides were arrayed, leaving an indelible stain 
upon the memory of the chief actors of the territorial 
authorities. 








MAURICE FITZGERALD 
Modoc War Veteran and Scout With General O. O. Howard 


CHAPTER XLIV. 


INDIAN WARS 


The following chapter on the Indian wars within 
and near the borders of Washington, truthfully relates 
history and vividly illustrates the progress of the 
period under review. 


We no longer have a right to hang prisoners 
without judge or jury or an organized force to shoot 
down men, women and children in fishing camps and 
on retreat, or a policy to huddle the Indians on restrict- 
ed areas, as provided in the Medicine Creek treaty. 


The Indians are now treated as individuals having 
the right of citizenship if they choose to accept the 
responsibility. 


In no department of our government has there been 
a greater progress than that in the treatment of the 
Indian. 


The author of this chapter, Mr. FitzGerald, former 
scout with General Howard, a participant in the Modoc 
War, now a resident of Seattle, is a man of large 
experience and a close observer, has given us an 
unbiased story of the events related.—E. M. 


HALLER’S RETREAT—1855 


The years 1855-56 are memorable in the Pacific 
Northwest for what appeared to be a combined effort 
on the part of the aboriginal tribes to stem the tide 
of white immigration to the Oregon country. Nothing 
like a systematic, concentrated, and united movement 
for a common purpose could be expected from wild 
and nomadic peoples, each tribe speaking a different 
language or dialect, unintelligible to its neighbor; and 
who had, in the not remote past, been frequently 
engaged in predatory warfare with each other. Yet 


352 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


the word seems to have been passed around from tribe 
to tribe that unless the influx of the palefaces was 
halted the Indians would lose their hunting grounds 
and be killed off or made slaves. 


About that time this idea was beginning to be con- 
firmed in the minds of the aborigines from the Rocky 
Mountains to the Coast. Nor can it be said that it was 
an unreasonable fear. 


The first white men that came into their country 
had been either fur hunters, or members of explor- 
ation parties, both lacking in anything that looked like 
an intention to make this territory a permanent home. 
Their presence was a novelty for the red man, a3 
well as a source from which firearms, powder and 
trinkets of all kinds were to be had in trade. Then 
came the missionaries who were really interesting; 
who indulged only in matters that concerned the spirit 
and who manifested no disposition to acquire any of 
the Indians’ lands. 


The Indians could tolerate these strangers and 
had nothing to fear from their presence. 


But gradually there began to come in the wake of 
the missionaries, in ever increasing numbers, long 
trains of wagons drawn by oxen and horses, filled with 
women and children, supplied with the implements of 
husbandry and everything necessary for making per- 
manent settlement. 


These newcomers were taking possession of some 
of the choicest hunting grounds of the natives and in 
many instances acting in a high-handed and arbitrary 
manner towards the latter. This thing had now been 
going on for ten or twelve years and no signs of letting 
up. This naturally put the Indians to thinking how 
to end this intolerable condition. They could see no 
way of succeeding except to fight; consequently, there 
were many conflicts all over the Pacific Coast in those 
years; in Oregon and Washington, especially, the In- 
dians made strenuous efforts to gain the mastery; but 


INDIAN WARS 353 


of course their efforts proved futile and only rendered 
their condition worse than it had been. 


In this territory the Indians were on the warpath 
both east and west of the Cascade range of mountains 
in these years. 


The campaign on the West side will be found fully 
described in another chapter; this narrative has rela- 
tion only to an incident of the campaign against the 
Yakima tribe on the Eastern side of the mountains. 


In the spring of 1855 some gold prospects were dis- 
covered near Colville which caused quite an influx of 
miners to rush to the scene of the excitement. This so 
annoyed the Indians that Pierie Jerome, Chief of the 
“Kettle Falls’ band, about August Ist of that year, 
declared that no American would be allowed to pass 
through his country. About the same time, A. J. 
Bolon, Special Agent for the Yakima Indians, was 
cruelly murdered by some of that tribe at the instiga- 
tion of Chief Kamiakim; at least, some Yakima Indian 
women so informed a Warm Spring Indian sent from 
the Dalles to learn the truth of the unfortunate occur- 
rence. Some said that Qualchin, son of Owhi, a half 
brother of Kamiakim, was the perpetrator of the 
dastardly deed; others charged it against a different 
Indian. However, Bolon was murdered while return- 
ing to the Dalles, accompanied by two or three Indians. 
The guilty ones also slew his horse, then made a fire 
and endeavored to consume the bodies of both man and 
horse. 


When the facts of the murder were learned at the 
Dalles it was determined to send a punitive expedition 
into the land of the Yakimas to demand that the guilty 
ones should be delivered into the hands of the military 
authorities for punishment commensurate with the 
offense. 


At this time Major Granville O. Haller, commanding 
Fort Dalles, had just returned from Idaho, where he 
had been during the summer for the purpose of pun- 


354 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


ishing Indians who had waylaid and murdered a com- 
pany of emigrants known as the “Ward Party’, the 
preceding season. He arrived in advance of his com- 
mand. 


He now received orders to proceed to the Yakima 
country to punish Bolon’s murderers and compel the 
Indians to comply with the provisions of the treaty 
recently made and entered into between them and the 
representatives of the United States. In this under- 
taking he was to cooperate with a force to be sent 
from Steilacoom across the Cascade Range by way 
of “Natches Pass.” 


Major Haller assembled 107 officers and men, a 
pack train, one month’s provisions and a mountain how- 
itzer, for the purpose, and set out from the Dalles 
October third. The course taken was a little east of 
north. For two days the little command passed over 
the rolling bunchgrass plateau now embraced in Klicki- 
tat county without encountering any Indian sign. But 
the third day having passed over the Simcoe Mountains 
and while descending one of the tributaries of the Sim- 
coe River, when about to cross the stream which at this 
point was fringed with a heavy growth of brush and 
willows, the command was suddenly fired upon from the 
dense growth of brush; at the same time the savages 
started to whoop and yell in a most blood-curdling 
fashion. Major Haller quickly moved his men to a 
more advantageous position on an elevation free from 
brush. 


While most of the Indians were hidden from view 
in the willows and brush, from which bullets and 
arrows came whizzing at intervals, though generally 
falling short of the mark, a solitary Indian now ap- 
peared on the summit of a bare hill, shouting at the top 
of his voice and waving his arms in a most fantastic 
manner, evidently directing the movements of the red 
men in the thickets. He undoubtedly was the directing 
head of the savages. 


This desultory engagement lasted till nightfall when 
the Indians withdrew. Haller lost three killed and 


INDIAN WARS 355 


five wounded in this preliminary skirmish. The Indian 
loss was much greater. 


The next morning the Indians appeared in greater 
force than the day before and renewed the fight. Haller 
moved his command to a still higher position which 
afforded greater advantages for defense. Here the 
Indians kept up a persistent attack, by small parties, 
all day long, never bringing their whole force into 
action at once. Towards evening the Indians became 
more aggressive, maneuvering with the evident inten- 
tion of trying to surround the troops. Several times 
the soldiers charged with the bayonet from which the 
Indians fied precipitately. They had no taste for 
contact with cold steel. 


By evening the troops were nearly exhausted from 
the continuous two days’ fighting without water and 
but little food. They were outnumbered five or six 
to one and the outlook was certainly desperate. At 
this juncture Major Haller, finding an opportunity to 
get a messenger through the imperfect encircling line 
of the savages, sent a request to the Dalles for im- 
mediate reinforcements. 


At dusk, as usual, the Indians withdrew when Major 
Haller determined, if possible, to extricate his force 
from the very dangerous predicament in which it was 
placed. He had the animals that could be spared turned 
loose, destroyed a large amount of baggage and pro- 
visions, made the wounded as comfortable as possible, 
and after spiking the howitzer, quietly moved out of 
camp without the enemy having any idea of his inten- 
tion. The command was divided into two detachments ; 
Major Haller commanding the main body while Capt. 
Russell had charge of the rear guard. In the darkness 
of the night the rear guard missed the course followed 
by the main body; so after traveling a few hours Haller 
encamped and had some fires started to show the rear 
guard where he was. Russell’s men did not see the 
fires, but the Indians did. Before daylight the camp 
was attacked by the savages and a general engagement 


356 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


again begun. The troops, though tired and outnum- 
bered fought gallantly, repelling every attack of the 
red men who, seeing their efforts were unavailing, finally 
withdrew. 

Haller continued his retreat, bands of hostiles hov- 
ering on his flanks but making no serious attacks. 
When within 25 miles of the Dalles, Lieut. Day of the 
3rd Artillery was met with a reinforcement of 45 men. 
The Indians now disappeared. 

Major Haller’s losses were five killed and seventeen 
wounded, besides the loss of the howitzer, baggage and 
supplies. 

Capt. Russell, with the rear guard, arrived safely 
at the Dalles, having followed a different trail upon 
which no Indians were encountered. 

It was understood that when Major Haller’s com- 
mand would start from Fort Dalles for the Yakima 
country to punish the murderers of Special Indian Agent 
Bolon, another force would be sent from Fort Steila- 
coom on the “Sound” to meet him on the east side 
of the Cascade range and co-operate with him in bring- 
ing to justice the refractory Yakimas. In accordance 
with this understanding Capt. Maloney, in charge at 
Fort Steilacoom, sent Lieut. Slaughter, with 48 men, 
to perform that duty. 

He left Ft. Steilacoom on the 5th of October and, 
going by White River and Connell’s Prairie over the 
Natches Pass, he penetrated the Yakima country some 
little distance. Then learning of Haller’s defeat and 
retreat to the Dalles he decided that the only thing 
for him to do, with the small force under him, was to 
get out of there as quickly as possible and return to 
the Sound. He recrossed the mountains and camped 
on White River, where the Indians were acting in 
a threatening manner, springing from their dissatis- 
faction with the terms of the treaty recently negotiated 
with them by Governor Stevens. 

In consequence of the defeat of Major Haller and 
the seriousness of the situation on the east side of the 
mountains, Capt. Maloney, in command at Ft. Steila- 


INDIAN WARS 357 


coom, requested acting Governor Mason to issue a call 
for two companies of Volunteers. The call was made; 
one Company to be raised at Olympia, the other at 
Vancouver. 

On October 22nd, a call for four additional com- 
panies was made to protect the lives and property of 
the citizens from Indian attack. 


By this time Capt. Maloney had sent Co. “B” to 
join Slaughter’s force on White River and in a day 
or two receiving additional volunteer reinforcements, 
on the 24th of October, having assumed personal com- 
mand of the forces, now amounting to 240 men, he 
set out from White River for the country of the hostile 
Yakimas, reaching the summit by the Natches Pass 
on the 28th. It was his intention to co-operate with 
the force Major Rains had been assembling at Fort 
Dalles for chastising the Indians that had attacked 
and defeated Major Haller. Having entered the Yak- 
ima country on the 30th, he received information by 
courier from Fort Steilacoom that Major Rains was not 
yet ready to move, nor would he be for some days; and 
realizing the insufficiency of his force to withstand an 
attack of the combined Indians, should they find he 
was in their territory, he determined to retrace his 
steps and return to the West side. 


He also learned that the effect of his expedition to 
fight the Yakimas had been to greatly excite the Sound 
Indians, who were old-time allies and otherwise closely 
related to the Yakimas and this, coupled with their 
other grievances, inflamed them with the war spirit. 

He sent a dispatch to Fort Steilacoom, notifying 
the officer in command at that place of his intentions. 
This dispatch was carried by one Wm. Tidd, accom- 
panied on the journey by six other members of Maloney’s 
command. 

They encountered the Indian encampment on Con- 
nell’s Prairie and after passing that point, were am- 
bushed and two of their number slain. This was four 
days after Connell and McAllister had been killed at 
the same place. 


358 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


These Indians were evidently preparing to attack 
Maloney’s command from the rear. 


Upon the news of Haller’s defeat becoming generally 
known, public sentiment was aroused and a demand 
for a force sufficiently strong to overcome all Indian 
opposition, to be sent forthwith into the country of the 
hostile Yakimas, was made upon the U. S. military 
authorities and the executives of Oregon and Washing- 
ton. 


Accordingly a force of almost 700 men consisting 
of 350 regulars under Major Rains and an equal num- 
ber of Oregon and Washington Volunteers under Col. 
J. W. Nesmith was collected at the Dalles, and on 
October 30th set out for the Indian country. As 
invariably happens where volunteers and regulars are 
jointly engaged in warlike operations, there is lack 
of harmony and cohesion. Jealousies and rivalries 
impair the actions and interfere with the efficiency of 
the troops. So it was in this movement against Kam- 
iakin and his people. Little was accomplished. The 
Indians kept out of the way; only two or three slight 
skirmishes taking place during the entire journey. 
Lieut. Phil Sheridan in command of a small number 
of dragoons, participated in this expedition and actually 
did the greater part of the little fighting that was done. 
In two or more charges with the twenty dragoons he 
put to flight the Yakima enemy just as he afterwards 
did the Confederates at Winchester and elsewhere. 


When the expedition returned to the Dalles everyone 
seemed dissatisfied at the results achieved. Major 
Rains specially came in for severe criticism for his 
dilatoriness and lack of initiative. The criticism was 
not confined to volunteer sources; subordinate regular 
officers were chagrined and humiliated at the mistakes 
and blunders of the commander and expressed them- 
selves freely as to his incompetency. 


The following year the trouble with the Yakimas 
was ended although Kamiakin was never captured. 
After taking part with the Spokanes and Palouses in 


INDIAN WARS 359 


their conflicts with Steptoe and Wright, he finally en- 
tered British Columbia, where he remained permanently 
to escape punishment for his misdeeds. 


BATTLE OF TOHOTONIMME, 1858 
AND 
DEFEAT OF STEPTOE 


Indian troubles in the extreme northwestern por- 
tion of the United States now embraced in the State 
of Washington, though at times fraught with violence 
and atrocities, were happily not of long duration. At 
the breaking out of the Civil War, practically all 
difficulties between the whites and the natives had 
been adjusted to the apparent, if not real, satisfac- 
tion of both. 


But prior to 1860, for many years there was general 
unrest and irritation among the numerous Indian 
tribes inhabiting that region; at intervals breaking 
out’ in sanguinary conflicts. 


In this chapter, it is intended to give a brief nar- 
ration of one of those outbursts of belligerency on the 
part of a few tribes that then dwelt in what is now 
generally known as the “Palouse” country. 


In the early part of 1858, the Palouses, Spokanes 
and Coeur d’Alenes became very bellicose in their 
attitude towards white men. This was especially true 
of the Palouse tribe, which seemed to resent even the 
harmless passage of travelers through its territory. 
The Spokanes and Coeur d’Alenes, who had heretofore 
been uniformly friendly towards the Americans, now 
seemed inclined to take sides with the Palouses in 
opposing the white man’s aggression. This change 
of conduct has been attributed to the activities of 
Mormon emissaries sent among the Indians to arouse 
a spirit of revolt against the Government of the United 
States. The report was circulated that the U. S. was 
going to take forcible possession of all the lands of the 
Indians and bring in white men to settle upon them and 
the Indians would have no where to hunt or fish. 


360 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


At this time there was almost open war between 
the followers of Brigham Young and the United States 
Government and as was natural to expect the resent- 
ment felt by the Mormons, at what they considered 
the oppressive action of the government, was very 
strong, and in retaliation they sought to arouse a war- 
like feeling among the Indians against the United 
States. This was never very hard to do. 


During the height of the excitement the Spokanes 
or Palouses murdered two white men who were on their 
way to Colville to the mines. And at Colville there was 
serious trouble brewing between the Indians and some 
forty miners who had assembled there to prospect. 


At this time Lieut. Col. E. J. Steptoe was com- 
manding officer of Fort Walla Walla. The Fort had 
been established a little more than a year before by 
Col. Steptoe under orders of Col. Clarke then command- 
ing the Dept. of the Pacific with Hdqrs. at San Fran- 
cisco, as a suitable point to concentrate troops in ‘the 
event of trouble with the numerous Indian tribes 
having their habitat in that region. 


Col. Steptoe now notified Col. Clarke of the pre- 
vailing unrest among the northern tribes and the 
reported murder of the two white men, and suggested 
that with the approval of his superior, he might organ- 
ize a force of two or three companies and go into 
the country of the disaffected Indians and interview 
the chiefs of those tribes and explain to them the 
falsity of the rumors attributed to the Mormon emis- 
saries; and that the United States government had 
no intention of doing anything to impair the friendly 
relations heretofore existing between it and the Indians. 
He also suggested that before returning he would 
proceed to Colville and endeavor to settle amicably 
the differences existing between the miners and the 
Colville Indians. 


Col. Clarke gave his approval to the plan suggested 
and preparations were accordingly made to carry it 
into effect. 


INDIAN WARS 361 


It was necessary to wait until the grass was suffi- 
ciently advanced to afford ample feed for the horses 
of the troopers and the pack animals. This was 
usually the case about the first of May. 


The expedition consisted of three troops of dragoons 
and twenty-five mounted infantry and a few friendly 
Nez Perces as guides and scouts. Two howitzers were 
also taken along to provide against eventualities. The 
troops were not well armed; a large number having 
only muskets which were a very inferior weapon and 
were only effective at very close range. Through some 
oversight, the supply of ammunition taken along was 
inadequate for such a purpose; the entire supply only 
amounting to forty rounds per man. This mistake, as 
will afterwards appear, came very near being the 
undoing of the whole party. The full strength of 
the expeditionary party did not exceed 160 men, 
After leaving Walla Walla, the route taken was 
slightly east of north. At that season of the year 
When that whole region was still a virgin land 
undefiled by spade or plow, it presented a charm- 
ing appearance. The undulating hills, covered with 
a carpet of the greenest grass, interspersed with 
myriads of beautiful and fragrant wild flowers; 
and between the rolling hills, every little while, the 
traveler came upon a beautiful stream winding its 
way through some little valley or rapidly rushing 
through a steep gorge or canyon as if eager to be 
swallowed up in the mighty current of the winding 
Snake or the majestic Columbia. 


These streams were usually fringed with a growth 
of willows, with here and there a grove of delicate 
quaking asp, or more pretentious cottonwood, affording 
delightful camping places for the weary traveler. 


When the writer first visited that attractive region 
nearly half a century ago, it was then very little 
changed from what it was when Col. Steptoe and his 
small command made that memorable march through 
it in 1858. 


362 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


True in the early seventies there were scattered 
settlements in many places, but yet there were also 
immense stretches without a vestige of habitation just 
as they had been for ages. Now that whole country 
is occupied and in cultivation and a more fruitful soil 
it would be hard to find upon the continent. 


The little command wended its way leisurely for 
many days, everyone enjoying the refreshing journey 
and the usually restful and attractive camping grounds. 


When the place for crossing Snake River was reached, 
luckily a number of friendly Nez Perces were found 
encamped there, whose assistance in crossing that 
swollen and rapid torrent of almost half a mile in 
width was indispensable. These Indians being expert 
swimmers and knowing how to handle the horses in 
water, maneuvered among the animals in the current 
with the greatest dexterity and succeeded in getting 
all across without a mishap. 


Up to this time, no unfriendly Indians had been en- 
countered, nor were any seen for two or three days 
after the troops had crossed the Snake at “Wolf’s 
Landing.” 


Then an occasional glimpse would be had of small 
parties of the red men on distant hill points, evidently 
watching the movements of the troops. Nothing im- 
portant transpired for a few days, until having crossed 
the Palouse River the command made camp on what 
is known as Pine Creek, not far from the Spokane 
River. The following forenoon, while leisurely march- 
ing ahead, large bodies of Indians suddenly appeared 
coming from the hills in every direction. They were 
well mounted and armed and evidently prepared for 
hostilities. Their number was estimated at somewhere 
near a thousand braves. 


When this formidable array of warlike savages 
came within a hundred yards of the command Steptoe 
halted, and through his interpreters asked the chiefs 
what they wanted. The Spokane chiefs said that they 
had been told that he had come into their country to 


INDIAN WARS 363 


kill them off and take possession of their country. 
Col. Steptoe told them that they had listened to false 
reports, that he had come among them with no hostile 
intent, but wished to keep alive and foster the friendly 
feeling that had heretofore existed between their tribe 
and the Americans; that he was on the way to Colville 
to try and settle amicably some dispute or difficulty 
between white men and Indians there. These explana- 
tory remarks didn’t satisfy the Indians; they seemed 
bent on mischief and informed the Colonel that they 
wouldn’t permit him to cross the Spokane River. The 
Colonel thought that this was simply a bluff on the 
part of the Indians; however, he told his officers that 
he believed there was no way to avoid a conflict and 
that they must be prepared to fight. 


He determined, therefore, not to change his plans 
as yet; in the meantime refraining from in any way 
giving cause to the Indians to think that he had any 
sinister purpose in coming into their country, but was 
there simply on a mission of goodwill and conciliation. 


Steptoe and his command kept going right ahead 
and every man prepared to do his duty if a conflict 
must come. The Indians riding along close by jeering 
at the soldiers and calling them women and other in- 
sulting names, but committing no overt acts as yet. 


When evening came, Colonel Steptoe made camp, 
placing his men in the best possible position should an 
attack be made. The Indians hung around till dark and 
then disappeared. The night passed quietly. That 
evening, Steptoe realizing the seriousness of the situa- 
tion, called one of the Nez Perce guides and asked him 
if he could take a message to Walla Walla as quickly 
as possible; the Indian said he would. The message 
related the dangerous turn events had taken and re- 
quested that every available man be sent to meet him 
at the Snake River crossing. The Nez Perce started 
out on that long and hazardous journey through the 
enemy’s country. It was hardly thought possible that 


364 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


he could succeed in reaching Snake River without being 
run down by the enemy. Next morning the Indians 
again appeared in greater numbers than on the previous 
day, acting more threateningly than ever, though still 
refraining from attacking the column. There were 
at least 800 of them, all in their war paint and with 
better rifles than the troopers. Every one knew that 
the Indians were determined on having a fight, but 
seemed to want the soldiers to take the initiative. 


The trail leading to Colville led into a deep ravine 
or canyon which, if followed, would place the column 
at a great disadvantage and, in fact, invite annihilation. 
Colonel Steptoe held a consultation with his officers, 
and in view of the menacing attitude of the Indians, 
they unanimously agreed that the only thing to do was 
to retrace their steps and endeavor to reach the south 
side of the Snake River. 


The little column was disposed in the best possible 
order for repelling the attacks of the redmen and 
the march to the south begun. 


As soon as the Indians saw the change made by 
Colonel Steptoe, they galloped from all directions, pass- 
ing close to the column, hooting and jeering at the sol- 
diers, who had to use uncommon self control in with- 
holding their fire. The situation remained unchanged 
for an hour or two, the hostiles hoping to get the 
column separated sufficiently so that they might rush in 
and cut off a part of the men. Not being afforded that 
kind of an opportunity, they at length made an attack 
on the rear of the column which soon became a general 
engagement. The soldiers displayed admirable cool- 
ness, wasting no ammunition, but making every shot 
count. The Indians galloped round the column lying 
along the sides of their horses and firing over the 
neck; pursuing similar tactics to the Sioux in later 
years when Custer and his gallant band were anni- 
hilated on the Little Big Horn. 


Colonel Steptoe now brought his howitzers into 
action, which, though doing little damage, still kept the 


INDIAN WARS 365 


Indians at a respectful distance for some little time. 
They soon overcame the fear inspired by the big guns 
and attacked the column spiritedly on all sides. The 
fighting was desperate. Several hand to hand combats 
taking place between soldiers and Indians, the former 
occasionally even clubbing with their guns and smash- 
ing the heads of the Indians with the butts. The disci- 
pline of the soldiers was the only hope of withstanding 
the fierce onslaught of the savages. 


A great many Indians had already bitten the dust 
from the steady and well directed fire of the soldiers, 
who kept steadily retreating, Colonel Steptoe wishing 
to gain the summit of a hill situated not a great dis- 
tance to the south and east, where it would be possible 
to make a more effective resistance. Quite a number 
of the little band had already fallen and the outlook 
seemed very gloomy indeed. 


After gaining the eminence in question, the troops 
were arranged in a sort of circular formation, the 
pack train and supplies in the center. The men by 
this time were suffering for water and attempts were 
made to reach a small creek close to the base of the 
hill, to gain a supply of the precious fluid; but every 
attempt was foiled by the vigilant savages. It was 
now about sundown and the Indians were still attack- 
ing with redoubled fury, trying to accomplish the de- 
struction of the white men before darkness set in. 
About this time, Captain Taylor fell, mortally wounded. 
He was a splendid officer and had been a tower of 
strength to the beleaguered troops. His loss was 
keenly felt at this very critical juncture. Lieut. Wm. 
Gaston had been killed a little earlier in the fiercest of 
the fight. At dusk the Indians were called off and 
Colonel Steptoe had then an opportunity to estimate 
his losses and determine how long he would be able 
to continue the unequal contest successfully; for he 
was satisfied the cessation of the fighting would not 
last long. He found that many men and horses had 
been killed or wounded; but worst of all, the ammuni- 
tion was almost exhausted, there being only an average 


366 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


of three rounds per man left. It would be impossible 
to continue fighting much longer, and when the am- 
munition was gone, all must fall into the hands of the 
bloodthirsty redskins and perish miserably. Colonel 
Steptoe seems to have made his mind up to await the 
next attack and die fighting to the last. What else 
could he do? The wounded were given every possible 
attention and the dead buried on the hillside. The 
outlook seemed hopeless. During the evening some of 
the younger officers conceived the idea of making a 
dash for safety; saying, if we must die we may as 
well perish in the attempt to get away as be butchered 
on this miserable hill. They talked the matter over 
with the Commander and he acquiesced if the wounded 
could be taken care of. Those fatally wounded mag- 
nanimously agreed to the plan saying it would do 
them no good to have the rest remain and perish with 
them. 


Arrangements were quickly made; the best pack 
animals were used as mounts for those whose horses 
had been killed, the howitzers were buried and the 
signs obliterated; the wounded that could be taken 
were made as comfortable as possible, and, in short, 
everyone that could go moved quietly out before mid- 
night. Every moment the Indian yell was expected to 
ring out when some picket would perceive the moving 
soldiers. But the Indians were resting from the fatigue 
of the continuous fighting and thought to find their 
foes camped on the hill in the morning. 


The fugitive soldiers rode hard that night and all 
the next day, arriving at the crossing of Snake River 
late in the evening. The river was so swollen and 
the men and animals so worn out from the long and 
perilous ride of more than eighty miles in about 
twenty hours, it was decided to remain on the north 
side till morning. 


The friendly Nez Perces were there, ready and 
willing to render any possible assistance. Some of 
them went upon the high points and stood guard for 


INDIAN WARS 367 


the weary soldiers. In the morning all were safely 
taken across by the faithful Indians and the almost 
famished soldiers were given a plentiful meal of boiled 
salmon by the kind hearted squaws, who also cared 
for and ministered to the wounded. 


Late in the forenoon, as Colonel Steptoe’s command 
was about to start out on the road to Walla Walla, 
Captain Dent, in command of reinforcements, rode into 
Camp. The Nez Perces courier had faithfully and rapidly 
carried the message for assistance to the Fort and the 
officer in command lost no time in responding to the 
call; and hence was already at Snake River with men 
and an abundance of rations which were sorely needed 
to prevent much suffering from hunger on the march 
to Walla Walla. 


Before reaching Walla 
Walla, Colonel Steptoe’s 
command met a large 
body of Indians who dis- 
played an American 
flag to show that they 
had nothing in common 
with the hostile north- 
ern tribes. They were 
Nez Perces under the 
leadership of Chief Law- 
yer, who already had 
learned of Colonel Step- 
toe’s defeat by some 
means of Indian tele- 
graphy, and who had 
come to offer their ser- 
vices to the Colonel to 
go back with him and 

CHIEF LAWYER fight the Spokanes and 

Palouses. It was a gen- 

erous offer and greatly appreciated by the defeated 

commander, but owing to the sorry condition of his 
men and animals, he had to decline its acceptance. 





368 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


Such incidents as the foregoing ought certainly to 
disprove the oft repeated saying that ‘‘There is no 
good in an Indian.” 


The journey to Walla Walla from Wolf’s Landing 
was made in three days. The home coming of the men 
of the expedition that had set out from there in such 
high spirits some two weeks before was a very sad 
and sombre return. Many men and two popular officers 
had perished, many animals and quantities of supplies 
had to be abandoned, and two howitzers left upon the 
fatal field of Tohotonimme. 


It was learned that, about two hours after Steptoe’s 
command had slipped away from the fatal hill, the 
Indians made a general assault upon the camp and were 
astonished to find nothing but some crippled or useless 
animals and a small amount of camp equipment and 
supplies. 

When the unfortunate ending of the Steptoe expe- 
dition was learned at Department Headquarters, Col- 
onel Clarke ordered Colonel Geo. Wright, of the 9th 
Infantry, then stationed at The Dalles, Oregon, to 
assemble a sufficient force for the purpose and proceed 
into the country of the Spokanes, Palouses and Coeur 
d’Alenes and make those unruly savages feel the weight 
of the displeasure of the great White Chief at Wash- 
ington for their shameful conduct in attacking Colonel 
Steptoe and his command while engaged upon a peace- 
ful mission to better the condition of those same 
Indians. 

Pursuant to these instructions, Colonel Wright as- 
sembled at Walla Walla a force of about 600 men com- 
posed of dragoons, infantry and artillery, reinforced 
by a band of friendly Nez Perces, and set out to chas- 
tise the Northern tribes for their treacherous attack 
on Colonel Steptoe. He proceeded to the vicinity of 
the Battle of Tohotonimme, but a little further west, 
and found the Indians awaiting him, drawn up in 
battle array. After a stubborn fight, he inflicted a 
crushing defeat upon them, killing a great many of 
them without the loss of a man on his side. 


INDIAN WARS 369 


In a few days he again encountered them and caused 
them heavy losses in men and horses. They were now 
willing to sue for peace, some of the leaders coming 
to Colonel Wright’s camp to get terms. Colonel Wright 
was a very stern and almost despotic character and 
showed no leniency to those who were guilty of any 
unjustifiable acts in the past, when they fell into his 
hands. There was no red tape to his procedure. He 
simply called the guard and ordered them immediately 
strung up by the neck till dead. He had a dozen or 
so hanged at one place up in that country in this 
summary manner, and the creek still bears the name 
of “Hangman.” 

While at his camp one day a Yakima Indian named 
Qualchien and his wife, a young and beautiful Indian 
woman, the daughter of a chief, rode up to have a 
talk with Colonel Wright about something or other; 
he wasn’t given a chance to explain. He and his wife 
were both richly attired according to Indian fashion. 
The woman carried a lance, the pole decorated and 
carved and Qualchien carried a rifle. Colonel Wright 
had never seen this Indian before, but had heard he 
was a bad actor, so when he dismounted and ap- 
proached, the Colonel said “Hand me your rifle.” The 
Indian did so. He then called the guard, then ordered 
the sergeant to get four men and have this Indian 
hanged immediately. Qualchien was a powerfully built 
young Indian and struggled so with his captors that 
they had to call for assistance to get him to the tree. 
It is said that only fifteen minutes elapsed from the 
time he rode into camp until his body was dangling 
from the gallows tree. 

When the squaw saw the men of the guard take 
hold of her husband, she hurled the lance she carried, 
the point penetrating the ground several inches, whirled 
her horse and rode off, like Virginius the Roman, to 
tell the Indian camp what deeds are done by white 
men. 

Owhi, the father of this unfortunate Indian, was 
made a prisoner by Colonel Wright, but on the road 


370 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


to Walla Walla he was shot to death, some one claim- 
ing that he attempted to escape. 

When Colonel Wright arrived at Walla Walla he 
summoned the members of that tribe to meet him for 
a council at the Fort. They came at the appointed 
time. Colonel Wright, addressing them, said he had 
heard that some of them had joined the hostile Northern 
Indians in the recent troubles, and if any of those 
present had done so he would request them to make 
known the fact. 

Thirty-five arose, admitting they had been with the 
Spokanes, Palouses and Coeur d’Alenes. Colonel Wright 
looked them over, picked four of the number, sum- 
moned the guard and ordered these four hanged im- 
mediately. 

Wouldn’t Colonel Wright have been an appropriate 
Grand Vizier for an old time Sultan? 


THE NEZ PERCES WAR OF 1877 


When hostilities broke 
out between the Nez 
Perces, who _ followed 
the leadership of Chief 
Joseph, otherwise known 
as the non-treaty In- 
dians, and the settlers 
who were squatting on 
lands claimed by the 
former, in the month of 
June, 1877, the writer 
was a sergeant of Troop 
“K”, First Cavalry, then 
stationed at Camp Har- 
ney, Oregon. 

Before entering into 
a narrative of the events 
that followed, it will be 
necessary to devote a 
CHIEF JOSEPH little space to the causes 





INDIAN WARS oo 


that led up to the outbreak, and how a tribe that 
had been uniformly friendly to the whites since the 
representatives of both races, had met for the first time 
in the rugged mountain region near the headwaters of 
the Clearwater, during the early years of the last 
century. 


The Nez Perces tribe of Indians had for generations 
lived upon and controlled an extensive territory in 
what is now embraced in Northeastern Oregon, South- 
western Washington and central Idaho. The first 
record we have of them is found in the journal of the 
Lewis and Clark expedition when these pioneer Ameri- 
can explorers encountered a party of them in 1805 in 
the mountainous region well up towards the head- 
waters of the Clearwater River. They were, at first, 
naturally shy at meeting people of a different race, 
and kept at a safe distance until encouraged by signs 
and other manifestations that the white strangers 
meant them no harm; then approaching, timidly, they 
soon became on friendly terms with the newcomers, 
and considerable trading took place between them. It 
took many days for the white men to traverse the 
country occupied by these people and during that time 
they experienced nothing but friendly treatment at 
their hands. | 


On the return trip, the following year, Lewis and 
Clark also met with kindness and courtesy at the hands 
of these primitive people, and secured from them pro- 
visions and stock that aided greatly in mitigating the 
hardships of the journey homewards across the Rocky 
Mountains. From that time until the unfortunate 
trouble in 1877 they were never known to molest or 
mistreat any white men who happened into their 
country. 


In 1855 Governor Stevens, of Washington Terri- 
tory, made a treaty with the Nez Perces Indians in 
which a very liberal extent of country was allotted 
them and in which was included the Wallowa and 
Imnaha Valleys. Not many years elapsed, however, 


BY? SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


before incoming settlers began to complain that the 
Indians had too much territory given them and that 
it should be curtailed. Since this kind of disposition 
was entertained by the white inhabitants an effort was 
made to induce the Indians to enter into another 
treaty whereby a considerable area of the lands pre- 
viously granted them would be relinquished and made 
available for white settlement. 


In a Council called for the purpose in 1863, a num- 
ber of the chiefs were induced to sign a new treaty, 
giving up the area in question. To this, however, 
Chiefs Joseph, Looking Glass, White Bird, Ollicutt and 
others of the more independent spirits, dissented, al- 
leging that those who signed the new treaty had no 
right to sign for them or give their lands away. 
Furthermore, it was asserted that the majority of the 
Chiefs who signed the new treaty were induced by 
false promises, or cajoled into doing so. 


This uncertainty and resultant trouble was a nat- 
ural sequence to the government’s policy of recog- 
nizing the ownership and sovereignty of Indian tribes 
in the lands occupied and the right to make treaties 
and otherwise play the role of Independent Nations. 


It must be admitted that in the broadest sense of 
abstract right, it was a just and honorable course to 
pursue. But as a policy of practical statesmanship, 
it must be classed as a failure and doomed to entail 
innumerable difficulties. The United States govern- 
ment asserted dominion over all the territory within 
its defined boundaries; then why recognize within those 
boundaries Independent Nations capable of entering 
into international obligations? It seems absurd! How- 
ever, although it was in existence for a long time, it 
was finally abandoned fifty years ago. Since that 
time the Indian question has been settled for good as 
to policy, although it has taken many years to bring 
about the permanent peace now enjoyed. No more 
will the tomahawk and scalping knife of the savage 
inspire terror and dismay in our frontier settlements! 


INDIAN WARS 373 


It is now only an incident of history; and a pathetic 
and humiliating incident, too; nothing that we can 
point to with pride. 


But to return to Chief Joseph and his followers; 
there was uneasiness for a long time among all those 
immediately concerned, and many predictions that 
serious trouble would ensue were made. 


During this time considerable friction occurred be- 
tween those settlers who coveted the fertile and de- 
sirable lands in the localities mentioned and the Indians 
who claimed them as their rightful heritage. 


The situation became so acute that another general 
council was called to convene at Lapwai in May, 1877, 
at which the government was represented by Gen. O. 
O. Howard, commanding the Department of the Colum- 
bia, and Monteith, the Indian Agent at Lapwai Reser- 
vation; and the Indians by practically all the chiefs, 
except a few of the more radical ones. After consid- 
erable time spent in speech making and _ spectacular 
display, a sort of a tacit agreement was entered into 
whereby all the non-treaty Indians present at the 
council agreed to go upon the Lapwai reservation, for 
a time, at least, until a permanent settlement could 
be arrived at, Chief Joseph among these. The 15th 
of June was the day set before which all must be on 
the reservation. It was recognized by all those partici- 
pating in the deliberations of the council that the 
terms insisted upon by the representatives of the 
government were not satisfactory to the non-treaty 
Indians and that trouble might be expected at any time. 


General Howard recognized the seriousness of the 
situation and notified all the troops in the Department 
except those in very remote locations, to hold them- 
selves in readiness for an immediate movement, should 
the call be sent. Our Troop at Camp Harney was so 
notified. 


Before the expiration of the time set for complying 
with the agreement arrived at in Lapwai, several 


374 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


clashes occurred between Idaho settlers and non-treaty 
Indians in which each party sought to lay the blame 
on the other. It has never been absolutely determined 
who were the aggressors. However, this trouble had 
the effect of intensifying the bitterness between the 
Indians and the whites; and the former began to as- 
sume a threatening attitude and were gathering in large 
numbers in “White Bird” Canyon. Then the settlers, 
becoming alarmed and leaving their dwellings, poured 
into Fort Lapwai for protection. 


At this juncture, General Howard ordered Captain 
Perry, of Troop “F”, 1st Cavalry, to take his troop 
and Captain Trimble’s Troop “H” and proceed im- 
mediately to “White Bird” Canyon and compel those 
refractory Indians to go upon the reservation. There 
was then just one other company of soldiers at Fort 
Lapwai, and that belonged to the Infantry branch of 
the service, which had to remain there to protect the 
Fort and the refugees. 


Captain Perry had just ninety men, which com- 
prised the strength of both Troops, and being short of 
officers, had to take Lieutenant Theller, of the Infantry, 
along as attached. The civilians also organized a 
company of volunteers to go along and aid Captain 
Perry if it became necessary to use force. 


This small foree—too small indeed for such a pur- 
pose—by forced marches reached White Bird Canyon 
on the evening of the second day and found the Indians 
occupying a very strong defensive position, prepared 
to resist any attempt to enforce the terms of the Lapwai 
agreement. 


The Indians displayed a remarkable understanding 
of military strategy for a tribe that had had no ex- 
perience in warfare within the memory of living man. 
But before this campaign, now beginning, was brought 
to a close, Chief Joseph was recognized as a military 
strategist of no mean order and gained from men thor- 
oughly versed in such matters the highest enconiums 
for the wonderful ability displayed by him in many 


INDIAN WARS 375 


bloody encounters with seasoned troops. It was amaz- 
ing, too, how he managed to successfully make such 
a long and difficult march of at least fifteen hundred 
miles, encumbered all the time with his women and 
children and loose stock, with General Howard and a 
large force of soldiers close at his heels and other 
forces on the lookout for him ahead. He made a most 
gallant fight, and, unlike most Indian warriors, he and 
his people scrupulously refrained from in any way 
molesting or interfering with noncombatants during 
that long and arduous journey, although they passed 
through settlements with numerous inhabitants. 


When at length, after losing large numbers of his 
faithful and gallant little band and his principal lieu- 
tenants having fallen in the many desperate encounters 
with the troops, he surrendered the remnant of his fol- 
lowers, he did so with the dignity and lofty bearing 
of a Marshal of France in times of Napoleonic disasters. 


Not since Osceola made his splendid fight in the 
Florida Everglades, has any Indian leader left a cleaner 
record for splendid fighting qualities, or more punc- 
tilious regard for the rights of noncombatants. 


It is not intended in this article, to give anything 
like a full and complete narrative of the many thrill- 
ing and spectacular events of this very remarkable 
campaign that stands unique in the annals of Indian 
warfare. That task has been performed by more than 
one writer in a very interesting and’ reasonably ac- 
curate manner. Our purpose is simply to touch on a 
few of the more salient features. For although none 
of the events that transpired in this first and last 
Nez Perces trouble took place within the present boun- 
daries of our State, nevertheless, the habitat of the 
tribe embraced a portion of this territory; also because 
the Nez Perces had always exercised a commanding 
influence over practically all the tribes that dwelt in 
the extreme eastern portion of the State, such as the 
Palouses, Spokanes and Walla Wallas. 


376 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


Being always friendly to the whites in the past, 
this salutary influence had, on more than one occasion, 
been effective in keeping less well disposed Indians 
from going on the warpath; thus giving indirect pro- 
tection to settlers of Washington Territory. 


On the morning of June 17th, Colonel Perry’s small 
command reached the head of the White Bird Canyon 
about two o’clock A. M. and waited there till day- 
light. The evening before, at Mount Idaho, the citizens 
waited on Colonel Perry and urged him to go down 
to the Salmon River, where the Indians were en- 
camped, and either compel them to go on the reser- 
vation, or punish them for their misdeeds. The 
citizens, minimizing the strength of the hostiles, told 
Colonel Perry that with his well armed and discip- 
lined troops he would have no difficulty in vanquishing 
them if they showed fight. They little knew Chief 
Joseph or his men! 


At dawn the command moved down the ravine by 
an old trail into the White Bird Canyon. High bluffs 
and mountains lined either side of the canyon, which 
gradually widened out as it approached Salmon River. 
The Indians were encamped on the banks of Salmon 
River in a thicket of willows, having in their front sev- 
eral rocky knolls and hillocks which hid them from the 
view of the approaching soldiers. They, however, were 
not unprepared; they knew every move that Perry was 
making, and numbers of them were lying behind the 
knolls and mounds awaiting the advancing troopers. 


The little column formed in line as the Salmon 
River was approached, Perry’s company on the left 
and Trimble’s on the right. Some eight or ten citi- 
zens who accompanied the command were placed on 
the extreme left and told to occupy and hold a high 
knoll of strategical importance. The troops had scarcely 
formed in line when the Indians from the knolls and 
hillocks in front began to pour volley after volley into 
them. The soldiers, being mounted, were an easy 
mark for the Indians and many fell dead or wounded. 


INDIAN WARS Stl 


In the meantime the knoll occupied by the citizens was 
attacked and after losing two of their number, the 
others fled, leaving the left flank entirely exposed. 
Then the soldiers became panicky and the commander 
seems to have lost his head. Lieutenant Theller was 
sent with a dozen men to try and head off some Indians 
who were passing around the flank, evidently intend- 
ing to cut off the only avenue of retreat, but they got 
him into a cul de sac and every one of the party was 
killed. It now became simply a question of getting out 
of there without suffering annihilation. There never 
had been the slightest chance for that number of men 
to win a victory over Joseph at that time, no matter 
how well they may have been commanded; but Captain 
Perry never gave evidence of being fitted for com- 
mand in Indian warfare. During the Modoc war he 
was a failure and the men of his troop reluctantly ad- 
mitted it. Major Trimble also, a nice gentlemanly old 
fellow, was anxious to see his men well treated and 
contented; but no one on earth would pick him as one 
qualified to lead fighting men in a critical juncture. 
He had under him a man, however, who possessed all 
the characteristics of a military leader and to whom 
more than any one else is owing the escape of so many 
from the death trap in White Bird Canyon; namely, 
Lieutenant-Colonel W. R. Parnell. He rallied the vet- 
erans of his troop—and there were numbers still be- 
longing to it who served in the Modoc war—and keep- 
ing them in good order, retreated slowly through 
the canyon, fighting every inch of the way. Near 
the head of the canyon he encountered Colonel Perry 
with twelve or fourteen men, who was so confused that 
he thought it about sundown, when it was only seven 
o’clock in the morning. 


The united little band now retreated slowly, having 
many miles to go before reaching safety. Before reach- 
ing Mount Idaho, the Indians made several attempts 
to cut off their retreat, but owing to the untiring 
efforts and watchful vigilance of Colonel Parnell, every 
attempt was checkmated. Colonel Perry had given 


378 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


entire charge of the men’s movements to Parnell. Before 
arriving at Mt. Idaho a party of citizens came to the 
assistance of the worn out and shattered troops. When 
the Indians saw the fresh contingent coming, they 
desisted from further attack and retired. 


More than one-third of the little command that left 
Fort Lapwai on the evening of the 15th for the purpose 
of punishing the Indians who had failed to come upon 
the reservation according to agreement, and some of 
whom had committed some atrocious and unprovoked 
murders in the settlement in the past few days, perished 
at the hands of Chief Joseph’s band of non-treaty 
Nez Perces. 


Now indeed it developed into a real Indian war 
that will go down in history as one of the most mem- 
orable and doggedly contested in our annals. 


Troops now came to participate in the conflict from 
every Western State and some even from distant 
Georgia. General Howard quickly assembled five or 
six hundred men, cavalry, infantry and artillery and 
took the field in person against Chief Joseph. It would 
seem to the ordinary person that the Indian Chief 
could not long withstand the onslaught of such a 
formidable array of seasoned and disciplined troops. 
But as a military strategist, the Civil War General 
was no match for the astute and crafty Nez Perce. 


At the Battle on Clearwater on July 11th, General 
Howard’s force certainly exceeded that of the enemy, 
but although claimed as a defeat of Joseph, because 
he retreated, yet no advantage was gained by the 
soldiers; and as the Indians retreated leisurely in good 
order, it might more properly be called a drawn battle. 
Here a splendid opportunity was given for a cavalry 
charge upon the retreating Indians. The ground was 
open and reasonably level; five troops of cavalry eager 
to be given a chance at the hostiles; but through the 
want of prompt decision or timidity on the part of the 
Cavalry commander, Colonel Perry, the opportunity 
was let pass. 


INDIAN WARS 379 


Joseph was now well aware that fresh troops were 
pouring into Lapwai from every point of the compass 
and that if he remained he would surely be over- 
whelmed in a short time. He, therefore, decided to 
cross the Bitter Root Mountains into Montana and 
then on to the buffalo country and eventually enter 
“King George’s” land. He and his entire outfit then 
entered upon the “Lo-lo” trail and passed over that 
very difficult range, entering the Bitter Root Valley, 
which had, even then, a large settlement. While pass- 
ing through this settlement, he bought supplies from 
the settlers and didn’t in any way interfere with per- 
sons or property. 


In the meantime the Montana military commanders 
were notified to take steps to intercept him if possible. 
Without losing a moment’s delay, that grand old vet- 
eran, General John Gibbon, summoned every available 
Company in the district, left Helena, crossed the Rocky 
Mountains, and reaching Fort Missoula on August 8rd, 
started with 163 soldiers and 80 citizens in hot pur- 
suit of Joseph. He loaded his men in wagons and in 
spite of bad roads and rugged mountain ranges, he 
covered in one day the distance Joseph traveled in two. 
Joseph knew that he was well ahead of Howard’s com- 
mand and was consequently moving leisurely, not think- 
ing there was any other force in pursuit. 


On August 9th, at daybreak, Gibbon attacked the 
Nez Perce camp, springing a complete surprise on the 
wily Joseph. The Indians, dazed by the unexpectedness 
of the attack, were in a panic for some time, running 
in every direction for safety and losing many men from 
the steady fire of the soldiers. Soon perceiving that the 
attacking party was numerically inferior, they rallied 
at the call of their leaders and the fiercest fighting 
that perhaps ever took place in Indian warfare was 
continued all day long till the shadows of night pre- 
vented further combat. Then both sides realized how 
heavy their losses were. The Indians left 89 dead 
upon the field. General Gibbon’s command suffered 


380 SEVENTY YEARS OF PROGRESS 


69 casualties out of a total 194, among which were 
three officers killed and four wounded, including the 
General. 


While neither side could rightfully claim a victory, 
still by the energy displayed in gathering a force, the 
vigor of the pursuit, and the matured judgment evi- 
dent in the plan of attack, together with the dash and 
personal courage manifest in the close quarter fighting, 
stamp General Gibbons as an ideal Indian fighter, and 
entitle him, more than any of the other military 
commanders, to the laurels of victory. 


That was the last time Joseph was caught napping. 
About ten days after the “Big Hole” battle, Joseph 
inflicted some losses on Howard’s command in the 
vicinity of the Yellowstone Park and captured most of 
his packtrain. 


The next encounter of any moment took place at 
Canyon Creek when Colonel Sturgis, with six troops 
of the 7th Cavalry, caught up with Joseph. Some sharp 
skirmishing took place for several hours, in which 
Joseph sought to cover his retreat, and after nightfall 
succeeded in making good his escape. Sturgis and 
his men were thoroughly exhausted and could follow 
no farther. 


Joseph now proceeded leisurely, for he knew that 
Howard and Sturgis were now far behind. But he was 
unaware that another army under General Miles was 
making forced marches to head him off. While rest- 
ing with the remnant of his tribe on the north side 
of Bear Paw Mountain, within a short distance of the 
boundary line, which he could have easily crossed and 
made good his escape, he met his Waterloo. But as his 
horses were worn out and needed rest he loitered, 
as he thought, in absolute security. 


In the meantime, Miles, with eleven companies, was 
coming as rapidly as horses could carry them. On the 
3rd of October, the weather being cold and stormy, 
Miles came in sight of Joseph’s camp and galloped 
along to make the attack as soon as possible. 


INDIAN WARS 381 


The Indians, however, saw them coming and were 
prepared to meet them. Miles had a great superiority 
of numbers, but Joseph’s men, worn out and exhausted 
though they were, put up a gallant fight and inflicted 
severe losses upon their opponents. The battle lasted 
till nightfall, the Indians still unbeaten. During the 
night, White Bird, with some thirty or forty of his 
followers, escaped and crossed into Canada. Here they 
found friends and refuge in the camp of the great 
Sioux Chief, Sitting Bull. Joseph also could have 
made his escape by leaving his women and children 
which, indeed, he was too high minded to do. On the 
4th he surrendered the remnant of his little army, con- 
sisting of 87 men, 184 squaws and 147 children. About 
half of the men were wounded. Miles’ column had 
24 killed and fifty wounded. 


Joseph’s strength, according to the most reliable 
authority, never exceeded 300 fighting men. During 
the three and a half months of fighting and retreating, 
151 of them were killed and 88 wounded. The soldiers 
suffered in the campaign, 126 killed and 140 wounded. 
There were probably a dozen or more citizens who met 
death at the hands of the Indians. 


Upon surrendering, Joseph was promised that him- 
self and followers would be sent back to their own 
country and placed on a reservation. This promise 
was not kept. The entire outfit was sent to Fort 
Leavenworth, Kansas, and in the following Spring were 
placed on a very unhealthy reservation in the Indian 
Territory, where a great many succumbed to the malar- 
ial climate, so different from the healthy climate of the 
Northwest, to which they were accustomed. 


In 1885, through the untiring efforts of General 
Miles and many other friends of square dealing, even 
with savages, Joseph and the remnant of his people 
were taken back and placed upon the Colville Reser- 
vation, in Northeastern Washington, in a healthy cli- 
mate, among congenial surroundings. 


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Three a brief history is given of the book, 

“Washington Territory West of the Cascade 
Mountains,” produced in facsimile form as an appen- 
dix following, from an original copy, for which twenty- 
five dollars was paid. 


()* page 28 of this volume as a part of Chapter 


The edition of 5,000 copies, put out in December, 
1870, has long since been exhausted and become so 
rare that book collectors and government libraries have 
paid twenty-five dollars the copy, and for aught I 
know more in some cases, but that much in a number 
of instances. 


Looking over the venerable work, the first book, 
or if you prefer to call it “booklet’’, published in the 
commonwealth of Washington, with a view of making 
extracts as a foundation of the beginning of the history 
of the territory, for this volume I could not make up 
my mind where to begin or where to stop, and so, at 
heavy expense have had plates made, which will illus- 
trate how the pioneers wrote and thought and how 
the printers printed, more than half a century avo. 
The complete book except the advertisements follow. 


An interesting incident referred to elsewhere in 
this volume, the collection of fifty-three varieties of 
flowers growing in the gardens and commons of Olym- 
pia in the open air in December, did as much to ad- 
vertise the territory as the book, and, in fact, I believe 
more. It was a case of where we “builded better than 
we knew.” 


EZRA MEEKER. 








ales ny 


4 Pal 


i 





WASHINGTON TERRITORY 
CASCADE MOUNTAINS, 


‘CONTAINING A DESCRIPTION OF _— 


PUGET SOUND, 
AND RIVERS EMPTYING INTO iT, 


HE LOWER COLUMBIA, SHOALWATER BAY, GRAY’S HARBOR, 
GIMBER, LANDS, CLIMATE, FISHERIES, SHIP BUILDING, 
COAL MINES, MARKET REPORTS, TRADD, LABOR, 
POPULATON, WEALTH AND RESOURCES. 





Enterct aecording to Act-of Congress, in the year 1870, by B. Meeker, iv the 
office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 





OLYMPIA, W. T.: 
PRINDED A? THE PRANSERIPT OPELEH. 
1870. 





PREFACE. 


With but one inhabitant to eight hundred acres, and with less 
‘than one per cent. of the soil in cultivation, Washington Territory 
presents a large field for enterprise and industry. Comparatively un- 
known, and until recently unheeded, the progress of settlement has 
been slow. The purchase of Alaska, and following upon that the cer- 
tain development of the great fisheries of the northwest. coast, together 
with the admirable facilities for ship building, have all combined to 
hasten the development of this region. 

Since the Northern Pacific Railroad Company have begun in earn- 
est to build their road, already employing a numerous force in grading 
upon their eastern terminus, and have sent out a large corps of en- 
gineers to locate the road from Puget Sound eastward, an inquiry has 
sprung up respecting this hitherto comparatively unknown region that 
requires something more than individual efforts to satisfy. This book 
is offered to the public with a hope that it may supply the information 
sought, in a compact form suitable for transmission through the mails 
to all parts of the country. The great aim has been to avoid over- 
drawn statements, and to give the resources ,as they are, as far as if 
has been possible to obtain statistics and information. 





WASHINGTON TERRITORY 
divest of the Gascabe Mountains. 
| : Oh te eee 





GENERAL DESCRIPTION 


That portion of Washington Territory West of the Cascade Moun- 
tains, which 1s sometimes known as Western Washington, 1s bounded 
on the North by the 49th parailel of North latitude, to the middle of 
the channe! which separates the continent from Vancouver Island ; 
thence Southerly through the middle of said channel and of Fuca’s 
Straits, to the Pacific Ocean on the West, by the Pacific Ocean; the 
extreme Western limits. reaching to longitude 47° 41’ West from 
Washington , on the South. by the middle of the channel of 
the Columbia river, the most Southern point being in North latitude 
45° 33’. and on the East. by the summit of the Cascade range of Moun- 
tains, extending Eastward approximately to longitude 44° 30/ 

Thus it will be-seen that the extreme limits extend over nearly four 
degrees of latitude and three of longitude. While the square contained 
in these limits would embrace an area of 35,224 square miles, the actual 
area will approximate only to 25,500, in consequence of Vancouver 
Island extending South of the 49th parallel of latitude, by the deflection 
of the coast line from a true North and South, of nearly one-half a de- 
gree of longituae. making the Northern boundary that much longer 
than the Southern and again, by the Columbia river turning sharply 
to thé North for thirty miles from the point where the Willamette falls 
into that river, and then again furning abruptly to the West, thus cut- 
ting off a large area from our South-West corner. While the Eastern 
boundary line 1s 228 miles, the Western, or coast line is but 148, in con- 
sequence of this inroad made by Vancauver Island, and the deflection 
to the North of the Columbia river as before stated. 

That portion of the State of Qregon West of the Cascade range 
lies adjoining, to the South, and British Columbia to the North. It 
will be seen by this that unti) the’ recent purchase by our government 
of the Russian Territory Alaska, that this region embraced the extreme 
North-West limits of the United States. i 

In a political point of view. it will probably soon enjoy the same 
notoriety, as Alaska ao doubt will be joined to Washington for govern- 
mental purposes 

The basin of Paget Sound, and the country lying to the. South and 
extending to the Columbia River, 18 but @ continuation of the Willam- 
_ette Valley, of Oregon having the same general width, bounded by the 


oa 


" eioaad ’ WASHINGTON TERRITORY 





same natural barriers, the Cascade and Coast Range of Mountains, 
taking the same general course for an aggregate distance of nearly four 
hundred miles, and each removed from the coast, say on an average of 
fifty miles. The magnificent valley of the Willamette, with its broad 
‘and fertile prairies, we do not view with a jealous eye, well knowing 
that in the no distant future, her wealth on power will only increase 
that of the Sound region. We have called to mind tbat zailey in coo- 
sequence of the relative configuration of the two, seemingly separated 
only by the broad channel of the Columbia. While that of the Wil- 
lamette is mainly prairie. the region North of the Columbia is princi- 
pally timber i 
Three general divisions or characteristics may be noted to embrace 
all the variations of soil and exposure of this region, viz 
1, The mountainous, or that which from its altitude seems inac. 


cessible. 
2 The lower foot-hills and table lands 
3 The river bottoms and tide lands adjacent pat 


The mountainous region embraces an area equal to one-fourth of 
the whole. ‘Tbe mountains, up to the perpetual snow line, being covered 
with forests of magnificent timber, that hereafter will in part be made 
available by the channels of the rivers which rise in the mountains and 
flow into the Sound, as the timber nearer the navigable waters is con- 
sumed, and prices advance in consequence sufficient to warrant the in- 
creased expense. The soil is clay and gravel, with patches of vegetable 
mould here and there, covering the underlying strata — In other expos-. 
ures the bare rocks rise to the surface, but seldom interfere with the 
growth of timber 

The general course of the Cascade Range ts nearly due North and 
Sauth, and traverse the whole length of the Territory in an un- 
broken chain, the Western slope, the great water.shed, furnishing the 
fountain-head of nearly all the rivers of note falling into the lower Co- 
lumbia or the Sound. 

First come the North and South forks of Lewis nver, msing: South 
of Mt. St. Helens, in the extreme Southern part of the |] erritary, and 
flowing a little South of West, finally joining their waters together 
about five miles from the mouth, and emptying into the Colymbia a lit- 
tle above the town of St Helens, on the opposite bank and seventy 
five miles from the ocean. Next, to the North. are the head waters of 
the Cowlitz rising to the North of St Helens and between that and 
Mt. Ranier, and flows in a South Westerly direction a distance of sev 
enty-five miles; then turning sharply to the South for twenty-five miles, 
empties into the Columbia abreast the town of Ramer on the opposite 
side of the river, and sixty miles from ‘the mouth of the last river 
Rising in the immediate vicinity of the bead waters of the Cowlitz and 
starting from a point a little further to the Fastward, and closer up to 
Mt Ranier, is the Nisqually, which flows ina North Westerly direction 
for eighty miles, receiving numerous smaller streams; and finally emp. 
ties into Paget Sound seven miles South West of Steilacoom and eleven 
from Olympia, being almost on a dreet hne between these towns: 

The Chehalis’ head waters are found forty miles North East of 
the mouth of the Columma River, running East for fifteen miles re 
cerves the Newsukum river. thence nearly due North five miles and is | 


, 


oN 


WEST OF THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS 7 





joined by the Skookum Chuck Both of these lastrivers come in trom 
the East and head in the foot-hills of the Cascade Mountains, between 
the headwaters of the Nisqually and the Cowlitz, just described. From 
the mouth of the Skookum Chuck the Chehalis turns abruptly, first 
North-West, and then West, and empties into Gray’s Harbor, fifteen 
miles from the Pacific Ocean, and fifty North of the Columbia, having 
traversed by‘its channel about eighty miles, although wis but thirty- 
cwo miles from the head-waters to the mouth, in a straight line. Nu- 
merous smaller streams fall into the Chehalis at intervals, and in the 
aggregate make a stream of great importance 

Next to the North from the Nisqually, and rising from the Western 
spurs of Mt. Ranier, comes the Puyallup, flowing for forty miles in the 
same general direction as the Nisqually, and distant from it twenty-five 


miles, joining the waters of the Sound in that part known as Commence- 


ment Bay, being the South-West part of the inland sea named on the 
charts as Admiralty Inlet, but bere popularly known as Puget Sound | 


- Immediately to the North of the head-waters of this last named river, 


and in close proximity, we find the fountain-head of White mver, flow- 
ing in the same general direction for forty miles, and at an average dis- 
tance of not more than nine miles from the Puyallup, losing a portion 
of its water through the channel called Stuck, that falls to the Puy- 
allup, then turning sharply to the North, receives Green river five miles 
below where Stuck had left it. and which more than compensates for its 
loss; twelve miles further on, it forms a junction with Black mver, and 
here assumes the name of the Duwamish: then bearing more to the 
North- Westerly ten miles further, and empties into Elliot Bay, an arm 
of Puget Sound, three miles South of the town of Seattle, and distant 
from the mouth of the Puyallup twenty-two miles, in nearly a due North 
course 

The waters of Cedar river find the same outlet, having emptied 
into Black river, deriving its fountain head from this same range of 
mountains forty miles to the Eastward. 

The next river of note is the Snoqualmie, from which that famous 
pass through the mountains, for wagon and railroad, derives its oame, 
rising oear the summit, in - latitude 47° 28’. and at an altitude of oniy 


_ three thousand feet above the ocean level, hows nearly due East twenty 
' miles or more, receives accessions from the North-East. and makes that 


desperate leap of two hundred and seventy feet, the wonder of the 
coast. the Niagara of the Pacific Afterwards, this river assumes the 
name of Snohomish, flows ina North- Westerly direction for forty miles, 
and joins the waters of the Sound abreast the Southern end of Whid- 
by’s Island. and North of the outlet of the Duwamish thirty-two miles, 
and six miles East, as the bay bas borne that much to the Kastward. 
A smal) river called the Statukwhamisb, nearly forty miles m length, 
aud flowing West, after dividing its waters five miles from the mouth, 
conunue in the same general course, enclosing a strip of land five miles by 


one and a balf, and finally join the waters of the bay sixteen miles 


north-west of the mouth of the Snohomish. abreast the Northern end. 
of Camano (sland. and a little North of the latitude of Port Townsend 
on the opposite side of the Sound. | 

~ Next comes the mver Skagntt, the largest and most important of all, 
the accumulated waters of which are said to exceed that of the Willam- 


Bian WASHINGTON TERRITORY 





ette, gathering its fountain waters from the very summit of the moun- 
tains, and embracing a full degree’ of latitude of drainage along the 
range, and drawing a part from British Columbia on the North, flows 
in the main a little South-Westerly, dividing seven miles from the bay, 
yoins the Sound by two separate channels, seven miles apart, after hav- 
ing traversed a region “of.gearly one hundred miles in, length. The 
junction of the Southern channel with the bay, is in latitude 45° 23’, 
and hence but fifty miles from our Northern boundary, and a little 
South of the extreme point of Vancouver Island. 

Next, and last, on the East side of the Sound 1s the Nooksahk or 
Lummi, rising to the North-West of Mt. Baker, flowing, first, to the 
North-West for thirty miles, then curving sharply to the South-West 
and at right angles with its former course, continues for sixteeen miles, 
and finally divides, delivering the most of its waters into the North end 
of Bellingham Bay, and the balance into Lumm: Bay some three miles 
to the Westward, making the aggregate length of this mver about forty- 
six miles 

These rivers, which have been enumerated, do not comprise more 
than half of the mountain rivers West of the Cascade Mountaims, 
although by far the most important, as those rising w the Olympic 
Mountains, and emptying into the Sound on the one side, and on the 
other into the Pacific Ocean, are fay shorter in their course, are con- 
fined more to the mountain side, and have less of alluvial bottoms ygpon 
which to rely for arable land 

The amount of arable land to each of these river bottoms, the depth 
and width of their channels, together with the extent to which they are 
navigable, will all be noted under the appropriate heading 

Our mountaimous, or first division, although occupying so large an 
area, is aot without some attendant advantages; thefurnishing the ma- 
teria! for our valuable alluvial bottoms and tide land, of this last, which 


it is estimated that there are one hundred thousand acres on the East: 


shore line of the Sound alone, the avenues of inland navigation of these 
mountain rivers, and tht further reaching advantages of vast and tnex- 
haustible quantities of timber, that can be made available through their 
channels, not to say anything of the climate mfluence of this grand 
range of mountains, deflecting the Southern and warmer breezes of 
winter along our coast line, giving us aclimate in winter as mild as 
points on the Atlantic near seven degrees South of us. i 
“The foot hills, or clay loam district, 1s much more extensive than 
our people generally suppose. A tract of it extends around: the entire 
Olympian range, with very limited excepuons. Along the Straits and 
Hood’s Canal it may for a short distance be wanting; on the western 
-and Southern slopes it is quite extensive. East of the Sound, and 
along the foot of the Cascades, it 1s quite extensive, and probably 
ceaches South to the Columbia River But the greatclay loam district 


lies between the Chehalis river and the Columbia. It also includes. 


Lewis county, and the emigrant will bear me out tn the conclusion that 
one-half of the surface of our Terntory West of the Cascade Moun- 
tains, 18 a strong brown clay loam, fertile and productive, eminently 
calculated, when cleared up and judiciously farmed, to make, in our 
equable climate, a good wheat growing country, as well as all other ce- 
reals [{t may be objected that this section may be considerably bro- 


x 





Z A - 
St ee Se ee Ee 


OG, cna hee 


WEST OF THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS. 9 





ken by ridges, but the excellent and enduring quality of the, soil being 
composed of decomposed basalt, which is considered by ‘agricultural 
writers as an enduring basis for farming, will amply compensate for its un- 
even surface. By upheaval this district has been raised above the level 
of the boulder formation, and many of its ridges penetrate the drift, 
reaching nearly to the Sound. The traveler along the Portland stage 
road from Skookum Chuck to Olympia, listening to the grating of the 
carriage wheels along the gravely plains, is probably unaware that on 
either side, to an indefinite extent, the ridges more especially East of 
the road, are generally free from gravel, and are well calculated in the 
no distant future to amply repay the toils of the husbandman: é 

“The boulder district lies mainly to the South and East of the 
Sound, extending back in streaks and patches from ten to thirty miles. 
To a limited extent it 1s found South-West of the Olympian range, and 
also to some extent in Clarke county, back of Vancouver. I am confi- 
dent that its area does not exceed more than one-half of the clay loam 
tract. The emigrant will take gotice that there is considerable good 
farming land in this last named disirict. It is probably from two te 
three hundred feet in depth from the surface of the gravely and sandy 

_prairies to the bed rock, which, as we examine to the Northward, ap- 
pears to pass from the rocks of the trap family into the granite.” 

The above extract, from the pen of an old and observing citizen, 
although it may not be exact as to the proportionate distribution of the 
different characters of soil, 1s in the main correct. I should not place 
the extent of thé clay loam distnet at more than one-third of the gen- 
eral surface, ana yet it is determined only by estimation ; and again it 
would seem that the gravelly or boulder district? would cover ‘an area 
equal to that of the clay. But to neither of these qualities of land do 
we at present call the attention of the immigrant, with the same confi- 
dence as we do to the alluvial bottoms and tide lands. True, farms 
will be made on these clays, and in many localities the choicer locations | 
are profitably occupied ; but to warrant a general occupancy, the relative 
price of labor and produce must change; land must assume a value be- 
yond that of the improvements; markets mustcreatea demand beyond 
the productive capacity of the more favored localities, and then these. 
lands can and will be profitably occupied. To give a general statement 
of the altitude of these lands would scarcely be possible, as they vary 
so much in the different parts of the Territory. Immediately adjoining 
the Sound, and including the islands, the average would probably range 
to three hundred feet above tide water, while other portions, as for in- 
stance the Cowlitz hills or mountains, as.they are sometimes called, are 
probably one thousand feet above the ocean level. This region is best 
described as a broken country, yet not so much so as to materially in- 
terfere with the construction of wagon roads of easy grade, and at com- 
parative light cost, as the surface is often level for miles, and then a 
change will oceur, to a higher or lower level, as the case may be. In 
the lower spots, where water or the least wash accumulates, the surface 
is rapidly covered by a vegetable mold, and forms valuable and endu- 
ring meadows. Thousands of such places lie dormant for the industri- 
ous to improve, when our more valuable lands have been taken and our’ 
markets justify the increased costs of improvements afd production. 
This region is principally timbered, as before stated, and in many pla- 

~ 9 


% ue 


40 WASHINGTON TERRITORY 





ces more béautiful or majestic forests were never viewed by man. ‘This 
consists of fir, cedar, hemlock, spruce and pine, interspersed in favorable 
localities, with alder, ash, crab-upple, wild cherry and balm. Wnder- 
neath all this is an intermigture of underbrush, consisting of hazle, 
tag-alder, willow, hard hack, wine maple, huckleberry, and an ever- 


green known as sal-lal, besides many other varieties too numerous to _ 


wotice. 

Water is abundant, and-of the purest quality. Each of the iiv- 
_ ers mentioned, besides, others-of less note, and a net-work of smaller 
creeks and spring branches, flows either in whole or in part through the 
country, giving almost. universal diffusion of living enduring surface 
water, A few notable exceptions will be mentioned as we proceed. 
Even on the smallerislands of the Sound, beautiful springs burst forth, 
which are not excelled in any country. In addition to these are found 
numerous lakes, some covering but a few acres, others covering miles 
in extent, abounding in fish, and the water clear and pure. <A ledge 
of rocks, or what is known as the bed rock, is seldom exposed to view. 
That portion of the land that is gravelly or ‘rocky is composed of 
‘detached pieces, generally washed rock, from the size of a finger- 


Stone to that containing several cubic feet. In certain localities, large 


boulders are scattered promiscuously over the surface, in other placesfine 
gravel, and runnmg insensibly into sand, from same formation, More 
than half of the prairies, exclusive of the tide flats, are of this sandy 
and gravelly nature, affording a rich, but not abundant pasturage. 
Other prairies are found, of the very richest of soil, small, it is true, 
comparing with the broad reach over:the great West, yet sufficient to 
be prized by the possessor as of great value. Some, consisting of but suf- 
ficient for one farm, while others are of several square miles of extent, 
and of all intermediate.sizes. one 
The river bottem and tide lands, although they cSmprise but an 
inconsiderable area in comparison to the whole, yet they are of great 
value, and destined to build up happy and prosperous communities im- 
mediately within their confines. 
Balm, alder, ush and maple predominates on the lands, and we are 
always relieved and warned of the change of the season: by the fall of 
the leaf, a thing we do not see in the forests of the fir and cedar, that 


vetain their everlasting and perpetual green. ‘The tide lands at the : 


mouths of these rivers are of the same material, and called such so long 
‘only asthe highest tides cover their surface. These always occupy 
space that was once the bay, and in ee places have encroached far 
“out upon the ancient domaitts of this.inland sea, the Sound, and the 
process is still going on, as portions of that which the earliest settlers 
saw as tide land, is ‘now covered with young timber, and another ad- 
vance made from the front upon the shoals, to compensate for the loss. 
It seems superfluous to say that this soil is not excelled upon the face 
the globe, and yet did we not assert it, we should fail to do justice; 
but of this we shall particularize under the more appropriate heading 
on the farming lands, to be found elsewhere. | 
In conclusion, while the general surface, covered as it is mainly 
with dense forests of fir and cedar, seem uninviting to those just from a 


strictly < Nerigtanre region, with its broad prairies, yet the impartial eye _ 
-Gannot fai 


te detect the wealth that lies dormant in our soil, situated 














—aae 8 





| Efood’s @amal.. ...... 





SL OO OC LO IOLA E ALRITE CEA tes ye a, 
as it always will be, in the very midst of « mapufactusing «nd conmmner- 
cial people, taxing it to its wttiost capacity for sustenance, and calling 
upon other and romote localities to supply the deficiency, always en- 
suring a highly renmerative market. , 


NAVIGABLE WATERS. 


First, and greatest comes Puget Sound, and by that we mican the 
whole of the waters of this inland sea, although technically speakiu: 
they are divided into several parts by geographers, as the Straits 
Fuca, Admiralty Inlet, and Puget Rik but-we shall call the whole, 
as it is now universally and popularly known, Puget Sound: 

Breaking in from the ocean in North latitude £8° 267, longitude 
47° 40’ West from Washington, and forming our North-Western boun- 
dary, these waters rush through-an open channel twelve miles-in width, 
with no obstructions whatever at the entrance, running nearly due Kast 
a distance of eighty miles, sagging a little to the South, with a compar~ 
atively smooth shore line, finally to be arrested by Whidby’s Island, 
that suddenly check them, turning a part Northward through Rosairo 
Straits, and the intricate and numerous channels of the Archipelago de 
Haro, into Bellingham Bay and the Gulf of Georgia; the other portion 
turning South, bearing Easterly, with an average width of nearly six 
miles, for seventy miles, and finally takes a shoot through. that narrow 
passage known as the ‘“ Narrows,” one mile wide and four long, bears © 
South-Westerly, spreading out or ramifying into numerous ‘bays and 


_ inlets, enconipassing still other islands, and finally looses itself at its-ex- 


which we write, Western Washington, having traversed in all nearly 
two hundred miles.” | 

Eighteen-miles South from where the waters first strike Whidby’s 
Island, is an offshoot, called Hood's Canal, averaging two miles in 
width, bears more to the South-West a distance of fifty miles, then 
curving suddenly to the North-East fifteen miles, very nearly touches 
the waters of the Sound proper, after having been separated im the ag- 


treme Southern limits, at or very near the centre of this region of 


. gregate circuit of one hundred and fifty miles, and virtually enclosing 
as an-island, the county of Kitsap, with its numérous inhabitants and 


valuable improvements. 
Then, again, is the channel back, or East of Whidby’s Island, 

around Camano Island, through Deception Pass again into the Straits, 

and Swimomish slough, and by flris last. channel again into Bellingham 

Bay. 

To give « better idea of the vast magnitude of these waters, we 


extract from the tabular statement from the United States Coast survey 
of the coast Tine, as follows ; 3 
Straits of Juan de Puca............ BAN pon 7 weemoraeree BGR 


Se eae 


Admiralty Inlet. ....... ae ay SEL ns 
RN se Oe he eee Bae 


“OD 
ewe ome TE er ar eceee Vee « OPM em ere Seber. rises. ve or en a een wr are 


Rosario Straits, Canal de Havo, Gulf of Georgia, &c.. B24 


onde 


peaile “eT a Stated oF, 1,994 


al 
1 otal eT ores ee eB rerer eB Eh OE EIU NS oye ee ee 





12 | WASHINGTON TERRITORY oe 





This measurement is in nautical miles, which reduced to statute 
miles, gives a shore line of 1,833 miles. 

Did we neglect to say that in all this inland sea, not an unseen 
‘langer to shipping exists, that the waters are deep, the shores bold, the 
anchorage safe, and the sheltcr from storms complete in almost every 
nook and corner, except in the Straits alone, we would fail in giving a 
correct idea of this succession of harbors to the distant reader. Im- | 
mediately upon turning to the: South, the Sound is shut in from the, 
ocean storms by the snow-capped Olympian mountains, and by its tor- | 
tous and uncertain course, leaving a prominent headland here and a> 
point of land there, still giving additional security against the force of 
the wind, never ceasing to fortily in all its wanderings, until it is one 
of the most complete and extensive harbors in the world, incomparable, 
because none are found with which to compare it, capacious beyond the ° 
possible wants of future ages, yet safe as the smallest land-locked har- 
bor of the world. 

| The rivers falling into the Sound are all navigable for steamers of 
light draft, generally almost up as far as their alluvial deposits extend, 
and in one instance, as on the Skagit, a stretch of fifty miles. Some of ‘ 
these are, or have been obstructed by drift, through which channels 
‘an be opened. Above the point mentioned they become more rapid 
and uproarous, and will be used in the future principally as the channel | 
through which timber will be run to tide-water. : 


The lower Columbia river is the next in importance and grandeur. | 
Rising in the Rocky Mountains, draining an immense sweep of country, 
and accumulating waters in volume second to none on the coast, breaks. 
through the barriers of the Cascade range of mountains, finally emer 
ges from the confines of the mountain gorge, and enters Western 
Washington in latitude 45° 50’, longitude 45°. It is here we have first 
to deal with it as a part of the region described, after having made its 
last leap at the Lower Cascades. From this point it has an average 
width of one mile, and it is one hundred and forty miles by the river to 
its mouth. The river runs sluggishly throughout this distance, more 
or less affected by the tide. The general course is West, bearing some- 

_ what to the North. he depth of the channel on the bar is twenty- 
four feet. Ocean steamers ascend the river as far as Vancouver, a dis-' 
tance of over one hundred miles. It is a beautiful and safe river for 
‘Vessels of suitable size, when once inside the bar, and upon its banks une 
are found several thriving towns and settlements, some large milling 
establishments, and the most extensive fishing firms of the North-West 
coast. ; . 

. The entrance to Shoalwater Bay -is twenty-seven miles North of , ; 
the mouth of the Columbia River. ‘Toke’s Point,” or the extreme 
North-West point of Cape Shoalwater, and the Northern shore at the 
entrance of Shoalwater Bay, is in North latitude 46° 43/, and longitude 
47° 02/ West from Washington. The bay covers an area of about one 
hundred@and fifty square miles, is of an irregular shape, and extends 
South parallel with the coast to within three and a half miles of Baker’s 
Bay of the Columbia waters, and only separated from the ocean by a 
narrow strip of land of an average width of one and one-half miles.: 
The principal river emptying into the bay is the Willopah, which comes 
in from the East, and is navigable for vessels drawing twelve feet of 








vn 


WEST OF THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS. 3: 





water, a distance of fifteen miles from the.mouth. ‘The whole length of 
this river is not more than thirty-five miles, but upon its banks are 
found some of the finest avricultural lands of the Territory. : 

The South point of entrance into Gray’s Harbor is at Chehalis, 
Point, which is fifteen miles North of Toke’s Point. The entrance is 
about three-fourths of a mile in width; there is about eighteen feet of 
water on the bar, and the harbor is considered safe. ‘The bay covers an 
area of about eighty square miles. The Chehalis joins the bay sixteen 
miles from the entrance to the harbor, and at a place nearly east from 
Chehalis Point. This river is one of the most important in the Terri- 
tory, draining a very extensive district of rich agricultural land, both 
alluvial bottom and table land, and upon which there are many settlers. 
The river is navigable for light draft steamers for sixty miles Good 
sized schooners can ascend the river to the mouth of the Satsop, a dis-. 
tance of twenty miles. The tide sets in that far, and also up other, 
streams emptying into the Chehalis, making eighty-five miles of tide. 
oo navigation, immediately adjacent to rich alluvial bottom and tide. 
ands. 


SOIL AND CLIMATE. 


Soil, without suitable climate, is of no avail to the husbandman, 
while ever so equable a climate is alike unavailing without the soil. 
But take the two requisites combined, and we have that which offers 
inducements to build up prosperous communities and wealthy cities. — 

Western Washington-has not the uniformly rich soil of an Iowa or. 
Lllinois, neither has it the broad prairies of the. localities mentioned, 
yet, as elsewhere described, we find much good soil, numerous desira- 
ble localities for the farmer, some occupied and others unoccupied, and ; 
small prairies are found in the timber, usually prevailing. This climate - 
is excelled in no part of the globe for the production of grass, the ce- 
reals of all kinds, and the hardier vegetables. In this connection we - 
shall give a somewhat extended notice of such as have been tested. 

But first we must notice the climatic influences that bring about 
these results. Meteorological observations taken at Fort Steilacoom, 
in latitude 47° 7’, and near the centre of the region described, for a se- 


ries of-years, give the following result: Mean of four years: January, 


38° 1’; February, 40° 7’; March, 41° 8’; April 48° 6’; May, 56° 6; 
June, 61° 1’; July, 64° 9’; August, 64° 0’; September, 56° 9’; Octo- 
ber, 52° 6’; November, 46° 2/; December 38° 3’ For the year, 50° 
8/; three winter months, 39° 0/. 

By consulting the meteorological tables for the State of Ohio, we 


_ find that the average of the State, for a series of years, varies fess than 


one degree.from that of Fort Steilacoom; that although we are seven 
degrees of latitude further North, yet we have the average temperature 
of Central Ohio. By observing closely the temperature of the differ- 
ent months in the year, and comparing the two localities, it soon be- , 


comes apparent that although the average for the year is equal, yet the 


climate of these places. differ widely. Our summers are much cooler 
than those of Ohio, while our winters are warmer. So noticeable is 
this feature of this climate, and so insensible is the change from the one 


t4 WASHINGTON TERRITORY 


- season to the othor that-many persons are ready to classify ourseasonsg : 


as but two, the wet andthe dry. ‘Ghisis only partially comect, foram 
fact there is scarcely a month m the year that we do-not have.showers, 
while many «weeks, and -sometinres-months of the winter, or wet season, 
is pleasant and dry, February isour great wheat sowing month. ‘The 
cause of all this difference in temperature between the Basterh and 
Western poitions of the continent, 1s admirably set forthin- the speech 
of Hon. Chas. Sumner, on the purchase of Alaska. He SAYS 

« Al} this is now explained by certain known forces in nature. OF 
these, the most important isa thermal current in the Pacific, corres- 
ponding with the Gulf Stream in the Atlantic. The latter having its 
origin in the heated waters of the Gulf of Mexico, flows as a-river, 
through the ocean, Northward, encircling England, bathing Norway, 
and warming all within its influence. A similar streanr in the Pacific, 
sometimes’ called the Japanese current, having its origin under the 
equator near the Phillippines and the Malaccas, amid no-common- heats, 
after washing the ancient empire of Japan, sweeps Northward, unitil 
forming two branches, one nroves onward to Behring’s Straits, and the 
other bends Eastward along the Aleutian Islands, then Southward along 


the coast of Sitka, Oregon and California. Geographers. have de-_ 


scribed this ‘ heater,’ which in the lower latitudes is as high. as 81° of 
¥arenheit, and even far to the North it is ashigh as 50°. A chart now 
before me, in Findlay’s Pacific Ocean Directory, portrays its course as 
it warms so many islands and such an extent of coast. Amn .officer of 
the United States ravy, Lieut. Bent, in a paper before the Geographi- 
cal Society, of New York, while exhibiting the inifluence of this-cur- 
rent in mittigating the climate of the North-West coast, mentions that 
vessels on the Asiatic side, becoming unwieldy with accumulations of 
ice on the hull and rigging, run over to the higher latitude on the 
American side and. ‘thaw out.’ But. the tepid waters which melt. the ice 
on a vessel must change the atmosphere whereverthey-flow. 

“J hope you will not.regard the illustration astoo familiar, if I re- 
mind you that inthe economy of a household, pipes of hot water are 
sometimes employed in tempering the atmosphere by heatcarried from 


below to rooms above. In the ecouomy of nature these’ thermal cur- . 


rents are only pipes of inot water, modifying the climate of continents 
by carrying heat from the warm cisterns of the Southinto the most 
distant places of the North. So, also, there aressometimes pipes..of hot 
air, having a similar purpose, and these, too, are found in this region. 
Every ocean Wind from every quarter, as it traverses the stream of heat 
takes up the warmth and carries it to the coast, so*that the oceanic eur- 
rent is reinforced by an ¢erial current of constant influence.- 

‘‘ But. these forces are aided essentially by the configuration of the 
North-West. coast, with 4 lofty and impenetrable barricade of moun- 
tains, by which its islands and harbors are protected from.the cold of 
the North. Occupying the Aleutian islands, traversing the peninsula 
of Alaska, and sunning along the margin of the ocean to the latitude of 
54° 40’, this mountain ridge is a climatic division, or, according, toa 
German geographer, a ‘clinatic shed;’ such as perhaps exist nowhere 
else in the world. Here are Alps, some of them volcanic, with Mt. 
St. Elias higher than Mit. Blanc, standing on®guard against the Arctic 

incle. So it seems even without the aid-of science. Weseds a dike 


a bs 














WEST OF THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS. 15 





between the icy waters of Behring’s Sea and the milder Souther ocean. 
Here is a partition between the treeless Northern coast and fhe woodier 
coast of the Kenanians and Koloschians, a fence which separates the 
animal kingdom of this region, leaving on one side the walrus and icc 
fox, from the frozen ocean, and on the other side the humming bird 
from the tropics. I simply repeat the statements from geography. 
And now you will not fail to observe how, by this configuration of ther- 
mal currents of ocean and air, are left to exercise alt their climatic 
power.” 

: Mean annual precipitation of rain and melted snow, for six years, 
from Nov. 1849 to 1855. Location, Steilacoom Station, W. T.  Lat- 
Atude, 47° t0’. Altitude, 300 feet: January, 9.54; February, 5.16; 
March, 4.56; April, 4.77; May, 1.86; June, 1.97; July,0.34; August, 
1.54; September, 2.67; October, 4.43; November, 8.73; December, 
9.92. Recapitulation: Spring, 11.19; summer, 3.85; autamn, 15.83; 
winter, 22.62. Total, 53.49. 

The following extract from meteorological register, kindly fur- 
nished by Capt. James 8. Lawson, of the United States Cost Survey, 
and taken on board the brig #aunileroy, at different points on the 
Sound, although not extending over so long a period of time, is of re- 
cent date, and serves to illustrate the general average: 

_ “Three winter months, 1868-69: clear, 32 days; foggy, 14; rainy, 
45. Amount of rain fall, 20,248. Mean temperature, 41° Three 
spring months of 1869: clear, 59; foggy, 5; rainy, 29; amount of rain 
fall, 3,756. Summer: light showers—rain guage not in use; highest 
temperature for June, 94°; lowest, 42° 3’. Three fall months: clear, 
33; foggy, 8; rainy, 38; amount of rain fall, 14,123. Mean tempera- 
ture, 55°. Three winter months, 1869-70: clear, 19; foggy, 21; rainy, 
49. Amount of rain fall, 19,752. ‘Mean temperature, 42°, Three 
spring months: amount of rain fall, 6,058 ;. snow, three days in March. 
-June—clear, 21; rainy, 9; amount of rain fall, 0,431. Mean tempera- 
ture, 62. : 

Taking into consideration our moist autums and springs, and the 
comparative warm winters, nO wonder that we have grass green‘nearly 
the entire year, and are able to make up a handsome bouquet from the 

_ open gardens in January. 


The Olympia Transcript, in its issue of January 15, 1869, says : 
“On Monday last, Mr. H.R. Woodard, of West Olympia, sent 
into this office a bouquet of flowers, containing twenty-two varieties, 
gathered from his open garden on that morning, January 10th, 1870. 
Among them we notice the following common summer varieties: The 
Myrtle, Marigold, Daisy, Roses—several varieties, Flowering-cabbage, 
Wall-flower, Shell-flower, Honeysuckle, Crysanthum, Camomile, etc., 
etc. If any other place on the globe, in 47° North latitude, can pro- 
duce such a selection of flowers, twenty-two. different kinds, on a space 
of less than half of a town lot, in the open air, on the East and North 
side of the house, and fully exposed to the North, North-East and East 
winds, let it speak out and.tell its story. Mr. Woodard’s:is not the 
only garden in which flowers are to befound. There are many of them. 
In our own little garden we find in full bloom a number of Carnation 

Pinks. Who can beat Olympia?” : 


N“ 





it wl oes » Wate a Ta oe Ts a” 
SS Vip eke? oe aka lee hee FEHve 
‘ ue ve 
Svel J : ak E 
w” 4 ¥ 
* Ve im 
ee 
: 
y 
- 


16 WASHINGTON TERRITORY 


- 








No olimate can be better adapted to the growth of grass than this, 


an the soil seems eminently suited to its production. 

Following upon this comes the summers, with their cool nights and 
but few excessively hot days, which altogether make one of the best 
dairy countries on the coutment. The business itself is in its infaney, 
mot yet able to supply the home demand for butter, and no attempt at 
cheese making as yet. ‘Pake a country so eminently fitted as this for 
the dairy business, with pure water abundant, a present home market 
for the whole product, and a constantly increasing demand, no danger 
but thrifty dairymen will find profitable employment and pleasant 
homes. —- 

The statements often made that stock does not require shelter du- 

ring any part of the winter, is incorrect and likely to deceive the dis- 

_ dant reader. We have South and South-West winds prevailing in win- 
ter, that bring long and continued pelting rains, and sometimes, for 
a short time, snow. During these storms all domestic animals should 
be goused and fed. Sometimes rain will fall for several days and nights 
in. succession, and then clear weather wilh follaw, while at times, ai- 
—. the sky is hid with clouds for many days, no rain falls. 

_ #og does not prevail to any great extent. In this high lativade of 
éourse the days are short.in winter and correspondingly long in sum- 
mer. ¢ is half-past sever In winter before it is light enough for out- 
of-door work, and dark by half-past four; white in summer one ean see 
well by a little after three o’clock in the morning, and yet eatch the 
rays of twilight after nine o’eloek. These, of course, ave the extremes, 
wd the intermediate davs between the summer and winter solstices are 
of nearer equal length. 

Again, it is a mistake to class a part of the year as the dry season. 
This country seldom, if ever, suffers from drought. ‘True we have nat 
the heavy rains of winter, but copicus and refreshing showers are com- 
mon duriog our sumorer months, E think as. much so as central Indiana 
or Ohio. -- This last is that which we prize niost highly. The discour- 
aged hushandman from the parched plains of California, zpon arriving 
withm our borders, is amazed to see the fresh, green grass of our. bot- 
toms and the hnxurieat growth of everything planted, recollecting the 
scorching heats and droughts that he had feft behind him, and but a 
few days sail distant. ‘This is simply a record of facts; bad we space 
it would be interesting to trace out. the cause, yet the truth would nev 
ertheless vemain the sanre, and so we pass on to notice the peculiarity 

of our summer seasons, Sie 


By referring to the tables found an aacther page, we find that the . 


average temperature of the three summer monfhsis a fractiop over 63°, 
Farenheit, sufficient to mature the earliest kinds of corn, to produce 
potatoes to perfection, and with then ali binds of soot craps usually 
raised for man or east. Fhe nights are always cos}, so much sb that 
éhre mort tender vines do act thrive wel} unicss they receive extra care. 
E'have scen forty bushels af carp ops tc the arse, and ecyacersai 
toredia the open garden bap svn vndance. Yhese cool nig! 

New Leusey, yot exe these ave guise of toferalliy falr<polity in shel- 
tered! ocatzons. : peu, and cherry are et bome here, 
bear reguiachs and heavy crops, and of the best - quality. 





We oar, in | 


es 
ie a 


- 


1 * = “< 
SS ye ee ee ee 





sot 


ne 


\ 


WEST OF THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS. 17 


the course of time, find a market for the surplus of apples in the goun- 
tries to the South of us, in consequence of the high flavor and excel- 
lence, as compared with the productions of a hotter climate, Trees 
come into bearing at a much earlier age than in the Eastern er Middle 
States, but are shorter lived and decay early. The apple will usually 
bear at four years old from the graft, but the body of tho tree often 
becomes diseased. Not so with the pear; although it bears early there 
is seldom an unsound pear tree found, and the same may be said of the 
plumb and cherry. Following upon these, comes the small fruit of every 
description—the straw-berry, goose-berry, current, rasp-berry arid black- 
berry, that are produced in the greatest abundance and of most ex¢el- 
lent quality. The varieties of wild berries are numerous, and ate pro- 
duced in succession and in great abundance, but_ nothing so large as the 
wild plum is found.in our forests. The most valuable wild fruit found. 
is the cranberry; which enters largeljinto commerce, and is destined 
eventually to build up.a thriving business, as there are many places 
suitable for its production, and always a brisk market for shipment 
down the coast and for home consumption. Wheat, oats, barley and 
rye all mature well and produce abundant crops. I have known fifty 
bushels of wheat and eighty of oats having been raised to the acre. 
The average of our wheat, however, will not exceed twenty-five bushels | 
per acre for our bottom lands, and eleven for the upland gravelly prai- 
ries. It is of most excellent quality, being pronounced by our millers 
second to none on the continent, yet we do not raise a sufficiency for 
home consumption, because other and more profitable crops have en- 
gaged the attention of our farmers. ; 
‘The soil of our river bottoms is usually made up of a sandy clay 
loam, in some places sand predominating, at others, clay, but all of it 
quick and fertile. It has all been formed by the wash from the mour 
tain side, and bears the character of the material found there, yet it 
varies in consequence of the different circumstances under which the de- 
posit was made; that which was formed underarapid current, of 
course, not being so rich in sediment and fertile matereial. A rank 
growth of vegetation then sprung up over the whole surface, and de- 
cayed, and in turn was covered in by new deposits, and so alternating’ 
for centuries, until the whole, for an indefinite depth, is made up of 
this abraded material of the mountain side, intermingled with vegeta- 
ble mould, the whole, loose and friable, and easily penetratéd by the 
roots of growing crops, and of course not so liable to suffer from dry 
weather, as where a solid subsoil ts encountered. This ldnd is not en- 
tirely free'from overflow. Parts of every valley have not been known 
to overfiow within the memory of the oldest inhabitants, say for twenty 
years, while other parts are only inundated at intervals of several years, 
when an unusual high water prevails, and that. only during our winter 
freshets, while again another and an inconsiderable portion is annually 
submerged in winter,and sometimes in summer from the rise caused 
by the melting snow, and istotallyunfit for anything but pasture. .Gen- 
erally upen a.quarter section of land, a part of each kind of land de- 
seribed is found in proportions differing of course with each particular 
focation. In another coer aie be found anestimation of the amount 
of this.character of soil in each county, much of which is unoccupied 
ene the advent of the immigrant to enter upon and elaim by 


e 














18 WASHINGTON TERRITORY 





t i 
right of the homestead and pre-emption laws.. It is not claimed that’ 
this estimate is perfectly accurate, as {t is merely based upon the judg- 
ment of citizens residing in the vicinity, who are often honestly de- 
ceived, and from the fact that a part is not even fully explored, yet I 
have made due allowance and think it is not overstated. 


LIMBER. 


‘The value of any commodity lies in the demand as well as in its 
availibility, yet it is often the case that the facility for obtaining cheaply, 
increases the consumption far beyond what it would be be were the ar- 
ticle scarce und costly. Such is the case-with our lumber products. 
Although the imperative demand is great, yet we find increased sale in 
consequence of being able to furnish at so low a price. Already the 
lumber product of the Sound region alone amounts to full one hundred 
and eighty million feet per annum, which can be increased from year to 
year asthe wants of commerce demand. We have scen by actual . . 
measurement that the shore line of the Sound is nearly sixteen hundred ears) 
nautical miles, and although much of this is not available for logging : 
in consequence of heavy fires having burned the more valuable timber, AG eee 
in some places, and in others, the growth not being suitable for lumber, 2 
yet loggers scarcely ever haul more than half a mile. To say that the. a 
timber is excellent and that enormous quantities are obtained to the eit ae 
acre, would not convey to parties East of the Rocky Mountains, an hin oe 
adequate conception of either. the quality or its extent. There are ca-| a 
ses where two hundred thousand have been taken from an acre, and ee 
trees three huudred feet long are not uncommon. ! 

The logs are hanled upon skided roads. By stripping the bark 
from the logs and oiling the skids, a team will take to the roll-way at 
one time several logs fastened together. Oftentimes, after the logs are sear 
fairly on the road, one driver will take three or four yoke of oxen to ey 
the landing, each yoke with a separate load. 
The consequence is that logs are furnished to the mills at $4 50 
per M., and ata profit to the loggers, employing but few hands com- mae BE 
paratively for the amount of timber supplied. With a constantly in- 
creasing demand and a continued searching out of the most available 
bodies of timber, the time is not far distant when the price will advance 
and the better and more remote from the water will be drawn upon to 
supply the deficiency. This change will not enhance the price of lum- 
er so much as to materially check the consumption, but it will be an. 
era of increased prosperity among the farmers and laboring men. Then 
our rivers emptying into the Sound and coursing for a great part of 
their length through vast bodies of timber, will be called upon to float 
the growth of centuries through their channels down to the leyel of the 
salt waters, adding near one thousand miles more to ouralready exten- 
ded shore line upon which timber can be delivered to the water. 

The timber on the foot-hills adjacent to these rivers is superior tq 
much that is found near the Sound, and in quantities far more extensive, 
30 that we need have no fear that it will ever be exhausted, as there is 
a continued growth in localities not disturbed by fire or otherwise, that 
will assist eventually to keep up the supply. , Yet, aside from this, there 


VERE §, eee 


+ 


j eee ee ae * oe e 
tak : ss 
Ss Ree het ee 
a Le ee ee ae ee ee 


* 








WEST OF THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS. 19 





are many unexplored ravines and gently sloping hill-sides where utes 
be constructed, and the foree of gravitation made to propel the log 
to the waters couneeted with the Sound, and within the reach of the 


rer. f 
Already. the foreign trade is great, supplying al? quarters of this 
coast, the islands of the Pacifie, Japan and China, and even Euro- 
‘pean countries. Ships now come to us principally. in ballast,-but with 
North Pacifie Railroad compléted, this will not continue long, as 


Pewee. 9 will bear the freight of commerce, for the great interior, as well as 
£ 


in transit to the Atlantic sea board and to Eyrope. 

The yellow fir is the most abundant, and that which is most used 
for lumber and spars. It is both strong and- durable, and much used 
for ship building. It is a tree peculiar to the North-West coast, and is 
not found East of the Caseade Mountains, South of the 49th paraliel, 
and no further South than the 42d parallel of North latitude. : 

Besides the fir, we have the cedar, hemlock, spruce, maple, balm, 
ashand alder, in estimated quantity and value in the order named. The 
maple, balm, ash and alder are confined almost exclusively to the river 
bottoms. Upon the lower Columbia and in isolated districts of the 
Sound, there are bodies of the white fir, and in rare cases, of pine. 
There is also quite extensive oak openings near the head of the Sound, 
and extending far South towards the Columbia, but the timber is scrub- 
by and only second rate in quality. 

Although water power is abundant, yet steanr is.the power com- 
nionly “used, as a site suitable for shipping lumber is of more conse- 
Oi than the cost of the machinery. Hence, nine-tenths of the 
_ dumber is manufactured -by steam power, and many vacant harbors 
Await the action of capitalists and the demands of trade upon which te 
found large manufacturing establishments and thriving villages ; and 

such are yearly being added to’ the number atready here. ‘ 
The following is.a list of the principal lumbering establishments 
and their location 
'. §.L. Mastick & Co., Port Discovery; Port Ludlow Mill Co., Port 
_ Ludlow; Puget, Mill Co., Port Gamble; Adams, Blinn & Co., Seabeck ; 
_ Meigs & Gawley, Port Madison ; S. E.& T. Smith & Co., Port Blakely ; 
Grennan & Cranney, Utsalady; H. 2. Yesler, Seattle; Hanson, Ack. 
erson & Co:, Tacoma; Williams & Co., Freeport; P. Keach, Nisqually 
Landing; Ward and Mitchell, Tumwater; P. P. & Light, North Bay; 
oo River Manufaeturing Co., Knappen; Abernethy & Co., Oak 
ro1nt. : 

The export of lumber, foreign and coastwise, for the year ending 
June 80th, 1870, has been fully one hundred and eighty millions. The 
capacity of these mills duxing the same period, if run on full time, is 


m 


_ three hundred and twelve million feet. 





In addition to those enumerated, there are numerous smaller mills 

_ vun by water power, that supply the local demands of each settlenrens. 

There are about twenty of these now running, with numerous water- 

privileges not even yet ocewpied, that ean be improved as the wants of 
_ the settlers demand it. ~ 





Y 
- 


spake 





WASHINGTON TERRITORY 


crea Sn RERUN 


& 


FISHERIES. 


It is conceded by all parties competent to judge, who have re-' 
wiewed the whole ground, that the fishing interest of the North-West 
coast, will eventually centre in Puget Sound. 

The whaling vessels of the Pacific in former years resorted to the 
Sandwich Islands, and ata later date to San Francisco, for supplies, 
transfer of cargo, etc. Puget Sound is many days’ sail nearer the 
whaling grounds than San Francisco, has a more capacious and safe 
harbor, and can now furnish the appliances for repairs and supplies for 
outfit as cheap as any other pointon the coast. The day that the North 
Pacific railroad is completed will open a new source of trade for the 
Sound, by attracung the whaling fleet of the North Pacific waters to 
this harbor. .y 


The cod fisheries are destined to. build-up a very important com- 
mercial interest, employing a great number of men and a large invest- 
ment of capital. While the fishing grounds lie far to the North of the 
Sound, the climate and location forbid the extensive curing of fish 
North of the 49th parallel of latitude, or very far South of the.46th. 
In consequence of the first on United States soil being too far removed 
from supplies, and the climate too moist, while the latter locality is too 
hot to cure properly without injnry to the fish, anless extra pains are 
bestowed upon them to shelter them from the scorching rays of a South- 
ern sun. 


San Francisco is seven hundred miles further removed from the 
fishing grounds than Puget Sound. The equable temperature of this 
region eminently fits it as a curing station, and with these advantages. 
are the great facilities of the numerous bays and inlets of the Sound, 
with a beautiful, clean beach upon which to land the fish, and where 
flakes can be erected at any convenient distance from the beach, upon 
which to cure the fish. Added to these advantages is the fact that fish- 
ing schooners can be built or repaired on the Sound as cheaply as in any 
part of the United States. Supplies of all kinds are cheap and abun- 
dant, brought here at a nominal freight by vessels coming from all quar- 
ters of the globe for lumber or spars, or raised upon the alluvial river 
bottom lands adjacent to the Sound. | 


Two trips a year can be made from this harbor, while but one is 
usually made by the Eastern fishermen. This difference is mainly in 
consequence of the climate. While the fishing grounds of the Eastern 
coast are perilous even in summer, in consequence of prevailings fogs, 
lying, as the fishing vessels do, in the track of the great sea-going ves- 
sels plying between the Atlantic sea-board and Europe, that of the 
North-West is comparatively free from these dangers, and have the ad- 
ditional advantage of a mild climate, even in winter, never encounter- 
ing ice or obstructions of that character, either'in winter or summer. 

Meager statistics are at hand showing the extent of cod fishing 
already on the North-West coast. In 1869, ‘‘ nineteen vessels sailed 
from San Francisco in March and April of that year, for the Ochotsk 
and the Choumagin Islands ‘The first of the fleet returned on the 21st’ 





WEST OF THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS, 21 


eee 


of July with 45,000 fish; the remaining eighteen reached port at sub- 
sequent dates, the last being as late as November 6th. : 

“The smallest catch was 13,000; the largest, 115,000; the whole 
aggregating 1,055,500 fish. Allowing one thousand fish to the ton, 
there were 1,0553 tons, or 2,111,000 pounds,” or an average catch of 
over 55,000 fish to each vessel. - 

Some of the finest cod that has ever been caught on the Pacific 
coast have been secured this season by schooners owned on the Sound, 
and long since returned to cure their fish. The number of fish taken 
in 1870 will far exceed that of last year, judging from the reports of 
vessels already returned. Other vessels are now building, and still oth- 
We no doubt, will be undertaken as the advantages become better 

nown. . 

Although salmon are abundant in the Sound, yet they are not so 
easily taken or of so uniform good quality as those taken near the 
mouth of the Columbia from April till July of each year. There is 

probably no better quality of fish on the continent, or better facilities 
for taking them with certainty and in large numbers, than exists in the 
Columbia for a distance of fifty miles, along the river from the mouth. 

The tide rushing in over the bar and into the wide roadstead or 
bay, struggles with the contending current of the Columbia, and sinks 
as the tide recedes and allows the lighter waters of the river to rush 

over the surface and out to sea, to be again crowded up the river at the 

next_flood tide, and so on, leaving Grsekiah or salt water at the bottom 

and perfectly fresh at the surface.. Into this channel the variety of 

‘ salmon known as the “‘ Chinook,” come in countléss numbers, and are 
taken, but a few hours removed from salt water. 


Where the main fisheries are located, the river is one and a quar- 
ter miles in width, either one shore or the other running off shoal. 
Gill nets, twelve hundred feet long are floated down the river, in some 
places. for miles, without encountering any obstructions. Two men 
with their boat and net will average their twelve hundred pounds in one 
night. These fish can only be taken in the night, when the water is 
clear. As the channel is deep and the river wide, it is thought impos- 
sible to cut short the supply, as millions pass up the river despite the 
utmost viligance of the fishermen. 

Five establishments have canmed about 1,800,000 pounds du- 
ring the season of 1870, besides over four thousand apts by other 
parties. Those in cans nett about fourteen cents per pound; in barrels 
‘about five cents per pound. The canned fish are shipped te nearly all 
parts of the commercial world, and realize a handsome income to the 

~ parties interested. 7 | ‘aM 4 

The fish which ascend the Columbia during the months of April, 
May, June and July, are of different quality frem those which ascend 
at a later season, not the Columbia alone, but all the streams emptying 
into salt water. Some varieties of these late fish are-entirely worthless 
while other specimens are comparatively good. : 


In the first run are found some fine specimens weighing seventy, 
pounds, and averaging for the season, as high as sixteen pounds. Of 
the variety caught later in the season, sixteen pounds is considered very 
large, and the average will not exceed five. 


< 





22 WASHINGTON TERRITORY 

The Northern waters on the Alaska coast are literally ‘alive with 
the very best of salmon, even larger than those of the Columbia, 

Shoalwater Bay furnishes large quantities of oysters for the Pacific 
coast trade. There were sixty thousand baskets shipped from the bay 
during the season of 1869, at one dollar per basket. It is estimated 
that seventy thousand baskets will be required to supply the demand 
for 1870. ‘There are about one hundred and fifty men engaged in this 
business, emploving several schooners in the trade connected with it. 
Clams are found in great abundanee on the Sound. ‘The oysters of the 
Sound are small and confined to isolated districts. Recently parties 
have undertaken to transfer them to new localities. Time, no doubt, 


- will develope good oyster beds in the waters of the Sound. 


-The halibut is next in importance to the salmon. These fish 
abound in the Straits and far up into the Sound, to the North, inside 
the islands, and on the far-off banks of the North-West coast. Recently 
parties have undertaken to introduce these fish in the Southern markets 
fresh, by packing in pounded ice. No statistics are at hand respecting 
the success of this undertaking. Other means can be adopted if those 
already tried fail. It is known that where so fine fish as the halibut 
are so abundant as they are found in our Northern waters, that means 
will be adopted to get them into the markets.of the world. Latterly 
these fish have been salted lightly and smoked, and in that way pre- 
served, The time will be, when large canning establishments, similar 
to those engaged in putting up salmon, will prepare the halibut for the 
markets of the world, and a large commercial interest now lying dor- 
mant brought into life. . 

Thirty thousand fishermen or more have found profitable employ- 
ment on our North-Kastern coast, while our population was less than 
thirty millions. Upon the completion of the North Pacific Railroad 
‘fish will be sent far into the interior, to supply the wants of an ever- 
imcreasing population, For the present, the demands of the market 
will regulate the number to engage in the business. [tis known that 
many thousands might be engaged, with reasonable prospects of suc- 
cess. True, prices will not rule high, neither should they, as we need 
cheap food with which to feed our ship-builders and manufacturers. § 

Puget Sound will be the great centre where the fisherman will draw 
‘their supplies, receive their pay, and from whence the fish will be dis- 
tributed to the commercial marts of the world. The ship-building in- 
terest co-incident to this trade, will employ large numbers of men, and 
each will draw upon the agricultural and manufacturing interests,:tax- 
ing them to their utmost capacity, and furnishing a market second to 
none on the continent, and certain in the no distant future to build up 
@ numerous, prosperous and wealthy community. 


NORTH PACIFIC. RAILROAD. 


The charterof this company require of them to build and equip 2 

first class railroad fiom Lake Superior to Puget Sound, awd that thew 

“must construct one hundyed miles cach year after July, 1870, and com- 
plete the whole by the 4th day of July, 18#7. 











f 


WES? OF THF CASCADE MOUNTAINS. 23 


LE ee Cn eterna, 
Puget Sound is defined in an amendment to the charter as compris- 
ing all the tide waters connected with the Straits of Fuca, South of the 
#9th parallel of latitude in the United States territory. A land subsidy 
of twenty alternate sections of odd numbers, on each side of the road 
in the territories, and ten in the states through whicn the rvad will 
pass, with the right to go twenty miles beyond these limits on each side 
of the road to make up any deficiency of lands taken up by actual set- 
tlers prior to the location of the road, is.granted by Congress. z 
This grant will cover an area of about 93,000 Square miles, or sixty 
millions of acres. “It is estimated of value sufficient not only to build 
and equip the road entire from Lake Superior to Puget Sound, but will 
leave a surplus sufficient to ‘fit out an entire flect for the China, Kast 
India and coasting trade, of sailing vessels and steamers, and leave a 
_ surplus of millions.” ‘i 
The advantages of this-route are that it will run nearly its whole 
length through a rich agricultural region of far less elevation above the 
sea than any other road across the continent, aud will be shorter by 
nearly 400 miles from ocean to ocean than the Central and Union Pa- 
cific, and 1,600 miles nearer from New York to Shanghai, via Puget 
Sound, than San Francisco. : 
The subjoined tables will exhibit the comparative distance and alti- 
tude of the two competing routes: : 


ALTITUDE OF THE NORTH PACIFIC ROUTE: . 
From Duluth, on Lake Superior, to Dakota Valley, 300 miles, 1200 feet. 


To Yellow Stone River, 300 miles...............2....-. 2200 << 
Along the Yellow Stone 400 miles..........00 22.00... . 2500 * 
mo Pistehead’ Valley, S00 mmles: eyes Soke sa 3500 “ 
_ To Lewis or Snake River, 200 miles.......... Mest a 3000 * 
neo uel SOUnd: cOUriniles ne yh ky Or ee eS. Mathes 11 age 
From Lake Superior to Puget Sound, 2,000 imiles. 
l ALTITUDE OF THE UNION AND CENTRAL PACIFIC ROUTES: 
From Chicago to Omaha, 500 miles..................... 1000 feet. 
momnvew Cheyenne, o0U miles, ta Pies ee ee 3300. « 
Boe ooner’s, 100-iniles i ay a i agi st OOres 
To Promontory Point, 485 miles ..... Be el aL Sie ae pga 6200 * 
BeREsUIDOLI, 406 Miles es ek ae oe 4750 ‘¢ 
Pe etGe oh Mmied thurs ie cia) au ii fee cs 4000 ‘* 
eee UTI AEB cred ri eee eee hy ee eh 4400 ‘ 
Biemaeramictite, 60 Miles... cas ve eka we hee wy 300 “ 
meas Francisco, $00 miles. 2 so os, Ge a oe 50~6 


rom Chicago to San Francisco, 2,375 miles. ; 
NotE.—Engineers allow one mile additional ‘running time for every 
fifty-two feet of rise and fall. ‘ 


~ The highest point on the Central Pacific is 8,235 feet, while that of 
the Northern Pacific is 4,950. 2 
Governor Stevens, in hisreport on the North Pacific Railroad, says. 
that ‘along the coast the prevailing sea breezes from the South-West in 
winter, and the North-West winds in summer, so modify the climate 
that the isothermal line runs nearly parallel to the coast, and making 


2 


24- WASHINGTON “TERRITORY 





the climate of Puget Sound nearly. as mild, and in summer more agree- 
able than in San Francisco, while it corresponds closely with that of the 
Western coast of Europe in the same latitude, and especially that of 
the British Island. The effect of this amelioration from the prevalence 
of the South-West sea breeze is felt in winter, as has been here shown, 
as far East as Fort Union, on the Missouri, and has a constantly appar- 
ent effect on all the country East to Fort Benton.” _ 

One thousand feet of elevation will cause a fall of temperature 
equal to three degrees, and taking into consideration the difference of 
the altitude of the two routes, it would more than compensate for the 
difference of latitude, aside from the climatic influences mentioned by. 
Governor Stevens’ report. 

~The North Pacific Railroad company by their charter are required to 
use American iron in the construction,of their road. The grading of two- 
hundred and forty miles, from Duluth, on Lake Superior, has been let, 
and a large force are at work. The company has already taken the in- 
itiatory steps to establish large iron works near its Eastern terminus, to 
supply the iron with which to build that portion of the road. Four sur- 
veying parties, of twenty persons each, are in the field, diligently 
searching out the best route from the Sound. 

_ That branch from the Sound to the Columbia River will no doubt 
be completed during the summer of 1871, which will enable the company 
to bring the rich iron ores of the Columbia, and the limestone and cgal 
of the Sound together, with which to commence the manufacture of iron 
for the Western portion of the road. 

The following statements of comparative distances is taken from 4 
_pamphlet issued by Jay Cooke & Co, entitled ‘‘ the Northern Pacific 
| Railroad’s land grant :” 

‘The Northern Pacific road will be the shortest and therefore fast- 
est and cheapest route of commerce and travel between Asia and Eu- 
rope. The comparative distances between London, New York, Phila- 
delphia and Baltimore, and Shanghai, in China, and Hakodadi, in Japan, 


by the two routes, the San Francisco and Puget Sound, are as -fol- 
lows : | 


DISTANCES. as 

Statute 

: , Miles. 
London to Shanghai, via. Mediterrancan and Red Sea..........-.--s2eeee 11,500 
‘¢ to Yeddo ce As ae Be Seg Get hed dw a was ral ata late nee 13,000 

Oe PG IEW WORKS cica cies sata pave weenie eae vb Oem aanninies aipminee ta salah higennk 3,620 
Chicago t> San Francisco via. Union Pacific R. R........ ee ee ee eee eee eens 2425 
*¢ to Puget Sound (Seattle) Northern Pacific R. R......-...-.-.-6-->. 2,140 
New York to Bath Francisco via. Chicafo.: ..+iccsa sens pen celuwwsegee veces see 3,328 
*¢ to Puget Sound : ‘¢ and Northern Pacific R. R........-. 3,040 
Philadelphia to San Francisco via. Chicago and Union Pacific R. R........ B24 
sf to Puget Sound, ‘ ‘ “and Northern Pacific R. R...... 6 2,060 
Baltimore to San Francisco *« St. Louis and Union Pacific R. R......... 3,20) 
nes to Puget Sound ‘ Chicago and Northern Pacific R. R....... 2,977 
San Francisco to Shanghai ‘* Sandwich Islands.......-.+.-+.eseeeeeeeee 7,860 
st LOS 0 Midway, [sland8. csp cectsesvecececccesscss 7,100 
pen to Hakodadi, direct route..... bese new ee neeeerenestaeeeeeecers 4,800 
Puget Sound to Shanghai, via. Alaska Peninsula DEA tne Teens 3ie hao 5,716 

<6 ce 


to Hakodadi, ‘‘ petit . tC 
New York to Shanghai via. Chicago, San Francisco and Midway Island.. 10,423 
ce bean 54 7 é 


oO. : Northern P. R. R. and Puget Sound. 8,756 

e Philadelphiato ‘ t< Oe San Francisco and Midway Island... 10,345 
a tons eerie ee Northern P. R R.and Puget Sound. 8,675 
Baltimore to. os “< S£. Beuis, U. P..R. R., S. Francis. & Mid. Is... 10,390 


LER Pe 5 ee ‘© Chicago, Northern P, R.R.,and Puget Sound. — 4,(% 





WEST OF THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS. 25 





Po-the question will the road he huilt?” we-cangive an emphatic 
affiemativeanswet,and that,.too, in thmete-afferd? an-apportunity to cel- 
ebrate the great-centennialanniversary.of the National Bisth-day, upon 
the summit-of the-Droken downirange of the Roeky Mountains, amid 
settlentents far up onthe mountain sides, if not to the very stummit. 


COAL. 


Since the comparatively recent enormous growth of steam, marine. 
the attention of all commercial nations has been more particularly di- 
nected to-deposits of coal convententto the occan, than in former years. 
Phe question of a full-supply of cheap coal, and of good quality, 1s onc 
of morethan ordinary importance ta Puget Sound, considexing the:con- 
festcertain to arise for the carrying trade of the East, upon the com- 
pletion of the North Pacific Railroad. ‘fhe freight from China and 
Japan is of such a nature that speedis the great consideration. The 
thhye-of railroad across the continent will be shorter and the distance 
less to important ports of China and Japan, yet without coal to gener- 
ate steam, Ruget Sound might fatlim her laudable aspirations to grasp 
this great trade in the no distant future, 

Coal is known to exist at short intérvals from the Columbia River 
near Monticello, to Bellingham Bay, near our Northern. boundary, a 
distance of two hundred miles. “Ehese outcroppings are found in veins 
fom two to sixteen feetin thickness, and vary considerable in their 
quality so fav #s examined, yet no’ Yaiv test has-heen.given except per- 
haps that-at Bellingham Bay, and at the Lake Washington field, 
near Seattle. 

‘Bo particularize, it is found within a mile of the Cowlitz river, some 
four miles-from Monticello; then, again, near Claquato, on the-Chcha- 


dis, thirty-five miles from the first; then on the Skookum “Chuck, aud 


' at.short intervals to within fifteen miles of Olympia; next, on the Puy- 


allup, East-of. Commencement bay; on Green river, to the North of 
thelast.niined; then the Lake Washington field, seven miles East of 
Seattle ; and again fifteen miles to the East-and not three miles distant 
fxom the-famous Snoqualmie falls; and so on through to the 49th par- 
allel. ‘Phatfound on the West side of the Sound, isin seams-not so 
thick as-those named, yet of excellent.quality. When it is known that 
this country is comparatively yeé unexplored, much cf it unsurveyed, 
end all sparsely settled, it is fair toypresume that other discoveries will 
Semaide, and that in‘all probability-the strata unilerslies the whole coun: 
try. That at Bellingham Bay is-already worked 800-feat=under the wa- 
ters of the Sound. ie 

iEwenty-five thousand tons of eoal.avere shipped from the. Belling- 


ham ‘Bay mine during-the vear F869. “Bhe mine had bee on fixe and 


was flooded to extinguish the-“firey which ¢losed it for three 
months-of that year. ‘One hundred thousand tons. per annum can now 
be taken from thisminc-and-delivered to-vessels. ‘Bhe hinikers recent- 
ly erectetl, together -with the wharf, will easily clean S00-tons of coal 
per day. Whey ave of 4,000 tons capacity, and capable of delivering 
1,000 tons per day to vessels. ‘Bhsee wessells camload at the saine time 
‘and at a cost of about $3 per ton. 
4 


past MSN Re te oon re Oi tie oe eee 
: NE NOTE, DESERT) RAPT To Scrat ae? na 
oe An. 4 a 4 


+ a 
ee = 
rie aMy, 





26 . WASHINGTON TERRITORY 





The test for the caloric value of this coal, taking the average of 
four samples of Newcastle coals, that of these, one pound would ele- 
vate 66.63 pounds of water from 38° to 212°, Farenheit. While one 
pound of this coal would affect the same change on 59.90, while the 
average specific gravity of Newcastle coal was 1.26; that from the Bel- 
lingham Bay mine was 1.31; from the Lake Washington field 1.18. 
This last is described as being ‘‘ nearly as hard as anthracite, burns 
with a clear flame, does not emit the black smoke so common to other 
coals on the coast, and so far as tried it is pronounced superior for pur- 
poses of steam. * * * It burns up thoroughly, making no 
clinker, and leaving a very small proportion of ashes.” 

The confidence of capitalists in the quality of the coal found here 
is best illustrated by an account of the attion taken towards developing 
the mine: 

“The Seattle Coal Company have just let a contract for three years 
for bringing coal from their mine to Che Washington, over the new 
tramway, which is about three miles in length. Heretofore the coal 
has been brought by wagons, and then shipped in scows by lake and 
river some twenty-five miles to Seattle. Buta more expeditious plan 
is henceforth te be pursued. Steamboats are to run across lakes Wash- 
ington and Union, transporting the coal to within a mile and a half of 
this place (Seattle). Over this last distance another tramway is to be 
forthwith laid down, and parties are now busy cutting the ties, opening 
the road, and preparing everything for the speedy and constant ship- 
ment of coal over this route. A warehouse is to be erected at its ter- 
minus on the bay, where coal can be taken in safety and forwarded to 
San Francisco and elsewhere as fast as needed. The portage between 
lakes Washington and Union, a distance of about a quarter of a mile, — . r 
will be passed over by boats on cars, so constructed as to require no 
handling of the coal; it will be carried in the same vessels in which it 

. is received from the chute on the East side of Lake Washington, all 
the way until its delivery at Seattle. The company of contractors who 
transport the coal, and build the tramroad and boats for this latter dis- 
tance, have bargained to be ready for work by the first of October next. 
The probability is that they will be ready early in September ‘Their 
‘contract runs for six years, and they are to bring any amount that the 
markets of the world may deméad.” 

Considering the fact that the quality of coal in Washington ‘lerri- 
tory is far superior to any found on the Southern coast, and that it ex- : 
ists in such great abundance and over so wide spread district that it is a 
not to be wondered at that a recent disinterested writer, upon examina- . 
tion of our coal fields, said that “‘ nature had made Washington 'Terri- 
tory the Pennsylvania of the Pacific.” 


Me EPPA beds 
by, 
The tables of mortality given in the United States census reports, 
exhibits a marked range of per centage. In 1850 the ratio of deaths 


to population were: In Alabama, 1 in 84; District of Columbia, 1 jn 
61; Indiana, 1 in 77; Kentucky, 1 in 65;° New York, 1 in 68; ° Ver- 











WEST OF THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS. 97 





mont, lin 114); Massachusetts, 1 in 51; California, 1 in 99; Minnesota 
Territory, 1 in 204; Oregon Territory, 1 in 285. In 1860, the deaths 
in Arkansas were at the rate of one person out of every forty-eight; 
Massachusetts and Louisiana, 1 in 57; Illinois and Indiana, 1 in 87 ; 
Kansas, 1 in 68; Vermont, 1 in 92; California, 1 in 101; Oregon, 1 in 
172; Washington Territory, 1 in 228. Again, from the Surgeon Gen- 
eral’s army report it is shown that the ratio of deaths from fever was: 
In New England, t in 283; Harbor of New York, 1 in 66; the Great 
Lakes, 1 in 159; Jefferson barracks and St. Louis Arsenal, 1 in 113; 
- Texas Southern frontier, 1 in 67; Texas Western frontier, 1 in 529; 
Oregon and Washington ‘Territory, Lin 529.” 

The very favorable showing contained in the census reports, is in 
part accounted for by the difference of the thoroughness of the work 
in taking the census of different localities, yet we look forward with 
confidence to the forthcoming census, to bear out the assertion, that no 
other state or territory will compare with Washington Territory in 
health and longevity. he report of the Surgeon General is less liable 
to error, yet exhibits in a more marked degree the proportionate deaths 
from fever; while that of the five districts named averaged one in one 
hundred and thirty-seven, that of Washington Territory was one in 
five hundred and twenty-nine. 

There are no malarial districts to generate fevers, and cases of fea- 
ver and ague are unknown. The nights are always cool and refreshing, 
the days seldom hot, and the temperature equable throughout the year. 
There are no diseases peculiar to this country, and fatal epidemics are 
unknown. No case of hydrophobia has ever been reported. Of pois- 
onous reptiles there are none. The snakes are perfectly harmless 
throughout this region. Ina word, life and person are as free from 
casualties common to the human family, as in any part of the United 
States. 


ROUTES, 


Several ways are open to those desiring to come to the Territory, 
prominent among which is by sail vessels, coming to the Sound from 
San Francisco for return cargoes of lumber. For the emigrant with 
his family, this, although rather more tedious, is by far the best route 
to choose. Another route much used is by steamer, to Portland, and 
thence overland to the Sound. The first mentioned route is much less 
tiresome, does not cost so much, is just as safe, and with this advantage, 
that one’s goods and chattels can be kept with them, and ready for use 
upon arrival. It is probably not desirable or necessary to bring much 
freight, as everything needed for house-keeping and comfort can be pur- 
chased here upon reasonable terms, yet any article of value that will 
bear transporting to San Francisco, can be speedily and safely trans- 
ferred to Puget Sound and at the very moderate cost of five dollars per 
ton, to any of the milling ports, and from thence to any part of the 
Sound by semi-weekly steamers touching at all points of importance, at 
an additional cost of two dollars per ton. 

: The cost of passage, by sail, from San Francisco to the Sound, is 
twenty-five dollars in coin, and occupies about twelve days in winter 


© 


af 71 eh Lee Fe Le erent 


28 WASHINGTON TERRITORY 





and twenty in Summer, A person landed at one of the numerous large 


lumbering estallishments, is within easy reach of employment. if he 
desires it, and not far removed from government land, in the river bot- 
toms and on the tide flats adjacent to the Sound. 


_ Another route open to travel is via. the mouth of the Columbia 
River to Astoria or Portland, Oregon, thence by the river to Monti- 


cello on the right bank of the Columbia, and from this last point eighty- ~ 


five miles overland to the Sound. ‘This route offers the inducement of 
speed, as well as the opportunity of examining a far larger scope of the 
country, and by those unincumbered with families would probably be 
preferred. _ / 

The fare trom San Francisco to Olympia, via. Portland, by steamer, 


payable ir coin, is: from San Francisco to Portland, coin, $36; steer- 


nge, $20 50; thence to Monticello, $1 50; thence by stage to Olym- 
pia, $8 00. ‘Total, cabin passage, $45 50; steerage,$30 00; time, 
six days. Or, from Portland the traveler can take the ocean steamer 
running to the Sound via. the mouth of the Columbia, and usually go- 
ing no further than Seattle. The fare on this route is: from Portland 
to Seattle, or points below, $25:00; freight, per ton, $7 00; time, 
three days. This steamer makes a trip about every ten days. 

The most important routes of travel in the Perritory runs North 
and South about midway from the summit of the Cascade Mountains, 
to the East, and the Coast Range, bordering on the Pacific Ocean, on 
the West. From Monticello, near the Columbia River, to Olympia; on 
the Sound, itis sixty-six miles, overland, on an airline; from thence to 


‘the Northern boundary, one hundred and thirty-five miles. By the us- 


ual traveled route it is much further, 
FROM OLYMPIA SOUTH BY STAGE ROAD: 


To the first crossing of the Chehalis......... PS rahe vainohues he eesseeverse 3O Miles; 
‘*- Claquato, and second crossing of the Chehalis..........e..5eee Ghee ret aN 
ERO CIIONRLA RC OIRCE BEATION Jlae's nw een po mAEd Lele ed eee cae nie wep ROR ery wide ce are 
** Pumphry’s Landing, on the Cowlitz, (stage station,)............... iG gli 
** Jackson’s, on Arkansas creck, (stage station,).......... amisslenwsiacies LO ies 
* Monticello, on the Cowlitz, and near the mouth of this river..)..... JQ aes 
rom Olympia to Monticello....... Slee sins) os n.plu ye dioreis Dhib= EV AW iden pees ss wis wes Gin OPMENT 


Lhe first thirty miles is over alternate prairie and timber—soil 
gravelly and sandy, and the road good. ‘Ihe balance is a clay region, 


muddy in winter and rough all the time. Stage time: leave Olympia. 


at 2 o’clock 4. M, and reach Monticello next day at9 A.M.; rest at 
Pumphry’s seven hours. <A daily mailis carried by stage over this route. 
FROM MONTICELLO BY DAILY STEAMERS : 


FOU Colimb it Rivet soil. ss yecgecess Siete Slemisisle'b avn UA clatp dsl hes ving ie racic oe lo? OER TLC 
CAV AMCOUVEN, UPTV Cl ccd cies vow sig tabs ceed ae ce sl eu e cup ue Mae c de Goleceae «cies ete 
PY MUARCAGEB ECs JK s4 Sees Wen egcckam (platth sun's s ovckesecseeerseecese coececeses 42 6 
From Mounticetle.to the Caseades..... ages o wiki cing Pedaree th Waele wie diac alelat SOa Mi 
FROM MONTICELLO DOWN THE RIVER BY TRI-WEEKLY STEAMERS: 

TO Quk Von ts Gen vie ccctiees ecue cues Vawabp's tits neha aware aii seececceees 20 miles. 
=P ACADHARMMO backs ewe gia eit a od Wie Ri eR Ceate Re Miele cig wre S ibe aaeee cigs at wtaralnihe mies NEL 

** Pacitic City, near the mouth of the Columbia...... Uinkp ie s:/6\e' weld v's, 02 w wae EEO ihe 
vrom: Monticelio £0 Pade CHy. oi..052.s- c cae Uhenenee ctecenecccevccene (2 OF 

' The daily steamers from Monticello up the river reach: Portland, 


Oregon, in eight hours; distance, 50 miles. 3 
The tri-weekly steamers reach Astoria, Oregon, and near the mouth 
ot the Columbia, in six hours; distance, 60 miles. 





WASHINGTON TERRITORY 29 








These steamers run as an accommodation line, touching at all 
points on either bank of the river where local business offers, thus ex- 
tending the time for through travel. 


FROM OLY MPT NORTIE RY SEMEL WEKEKLY STEAMERS: 


PORSLELINCO Oleic ac cuecseue INdie SU eartete sas SATA apo shies Py WoL ek 5 nk ina Re 24+ miles. 
BEEP RCONML G0 9 «6 els, ee ak nls Gabi Gbiats wield witha: be aramtatereee es aletuese B Mab wae ie we eae jee aaah 
SDN ELEC oe Ceehiauic eons 6 pia te tat aihbuiis cornu aoe alt eh aka COMA ae ccd ee eRe ba te 
SPLORG IM PALISON oc g'e'e oui Vicks seek le ca ee ee Re pa Seieret Ya {eas 
RPPERCLE GC CSQRIDIO Mics crs oan g ate ea ea Macnee son osee S 3O 6s 
MOVE AL ALAIO Wee cae eae. She OPAIS siatgilive teste Se UGS arc Ra ay, wie alee 
SePEOLS ok OW MSC ous Sone otros eas es kama BED ay tee § See aes Bie a ean Sea bias 
SSP VICLOMSy -Iss Cisccs veo Wace ees a a ae deck PEAS ig wierccpiack Sees wae vis 1a 
From Olympia to Victoria.............. Sr ahten ye co seecereseenrs soccecumselQy 


The time occupied in running from Olympia~to Victoria is twenty- 

two hours. 
FKOM OLYMPIA NORTH, OVERLAND: 
To Steilacoom.... OPE AE OR Ppa eg : , 


He Ae ae Smabigpials boat ated rete wrist eee OTL es 
*¢ Franklin. on the Puyallup..... ahi tote snkn'ola b: 8; aialoe Sic e Se eee ere ea aA aid oboe A oot MAD Te ae 
** first crossing of Stuck..... Sh Woaat ss ote de eeeeeeeeeee aasetene xe Vas sss ti 
** second | * SC te tie glee Raha A pidiin siecle ale: eit alee faraisaca'alavaly aoe stan oy tigiete prayers Dieiiee 
PL MBORNCEY HORE Ol UC. sean gas sb. 0c gwen s oes ne alas cece cie Paes ware $586 
Pe OTORGIRG OLY SHLG) IORV ENS vn cuir ee slack tket ee deactell bese Rie Ocigte BS SA ie 
PT SECLIULV ED FONE CHNCE.6 cai cu leas Vag rain est Sealab cugo igcevecseooemuay se 
PMG A TOMSIMOWIE DHACKIRIVOT dues Suacd'o4ysas Su eesvee spies see tb eresoKet 18 
MIR MEER CACY yniyiary sp oheinla'e ssc cath wk Ve we gps Wowie Oks s sulenl ha Ubue Suaweseee ceri ee 
RRMN FEVER IIA LO MORELIC. co cons (oiled cuba) ous Sos oc n'sk bode ee cmeceteake THY So 
PROM OLYMPLA WEST, OVERLAND: 
To scttlements near the Lower Chehalis................ccecerecceeceeeee BBM 
peacsop- Creek, (HOG Water.) soi ck oy kee ccs cel ossieccas as ae LAIR nee ANI ELL. 
“* Wynootche Creek, (tide water,)...........-- RSet a ATE eaeat lun, Bite 
** the mouth of the Chehalis and Gray’s Harbor........ Bap wpilemutes ine eine 5 
From Olympia to the mouth of the Chehalis..:..... c.....c000 ceees ose. OOS 


From Steilacoom East, via. Nah-chess Pass, to Wallula or Old Fort 
Walla Walla, East of the Cascade Mountains, it is 225 miles. ‘This road, 
was opened through the mountains for wagons in 1853, by ah emi- 

grant train and citizens. In 1854 the government spent $20,000 on it 
"asa military road, and a large number of emigrants came over it that 
year with their wagons. Subsequently this route has become blocked 
up with timber, and only used as a pack trail or for loose animals. 
FROM SEATTLE EASTWARD, VIA. SNOQUALMIE PASS? 


Yo Clymer’s Post Office, on Black River..... .... EIEN cr ee ere eres LL miles. 

SLUA So an neue Spa iocc Rabe -hshg earereae as MoIE IA ne miata pip aca 8 wiaimib LATS gine tele & ea 

** Snoqualmie River .. ... PE Ea anh Sia Gisieielu's Wines Naneldic ae ame pe menace eels tohayalce 

he rf AUINMG accu recarees BET, wor Hohe ia sa are wa. Hain als erniatives eee ae ane 

MM REPEDEETRN nein Ces Chin's Mnavic eh 6 ch ees eee heads wa sce aie nler an Upmann 

MR MLOLDIS soe ccaitaes he eiale ee cues sain see Pepe Ae AS GE ch Sida sa nine ee Welecweo cnet auieS 

roomea tatinla. Citye esa. sae. pe Satara! drat aiiereh ta chert PRlersuia s coupe M Room Ny Lies BAS ees 
Sete MBELO OA Atl la Cy sa. ols os ahd ee Secs Geek's bra IN oe eee 200 


This road is open for wagons across the Cascade Mountains to the 
prairie. Within the last five years seven thousand dollars has been ex- 
pended on it by the Territory and King county, together with private 


subscriptions. King county is now expending $1,500 more this present: 
season. i 


































} 


% 


20 WASHINGTON TERRITORY ~ 


se 








» “ie 


MAIL ROUTES. 


From Olympia to Steilacoom city, 25 miles, and back, three times 


a week, by stage. 


From Olympia, by Arcadia and Oakland, to Skokomi 


and hack, once a week, in boats. 


» 


sh, 36 miles, 


From Olympia, by Cedarville, Elma, Montezano, Hoquim, Che- 
halis Point, Bruceport, Fort Willops, Oysterville and Unity, to As- 
pria, Or., 178 miles, and back, once a week. 


back. 


From Olympia to Yelm, 23 miles, and back, once a week, horse- 


From Olympia by Tumwater, Coal Bank, Grand Mound, Skookum 
shuck, Claquato, Grand Prairie, Castle Rock and Freeport, to Monti- 
cello, and back, six times a week, by stage, 85 miles. . 
‘From Olympia by Steilacoom city, Seattle, Port Madison, Port _ 
Gamble, Port Ludlow, Port Townsend and Port Angeles, to Victoria, 
B C, 200 miles, and back, twice a week, in steamers. or 
From Claquato to Boisfort, 10 miles and back, once a week, horse- 


back. 


From Port Townsend to Port, Discovery, seven miles, and back, 


once a week, by stage. 


From Skookum Chuck by Saunders’ Prairie and Cowlitz, to Grand 
Prairie, 80 miles, and back, once a week, horseback. . 
s, and back, once a 


From Steilacoom city to Franklin, 164 mile 


week, horseback. 
From Vancouver, by Cathlapoodle, Um 


_a week, in steamers. 


on Ridge, Lincoln and Pe- 
_ kin, to Freeport, 64 miles, and back, once a week. 
From Seattle, by Mukilteo, Tulalip, Snohomish, Coupville, Swino- 

mish, Utsalady and Skagit river, to Whatcom, 165 miles, and back, once 


From Seattle, by Freeport and Port Blakely, to Port Orchard, 30 


miles, and back, once a week, by steamers. 


From Seattle, by White River and Slaughter, to Franklin, 38 


miles, and back, once a week, horseback. 


LANDS AND LAND TITLES. 


Land has ruled low, population being sparse, and land to be had 
simply by residing upon it. There is no controversy respecting titles 
except, perhaps, in a small district formerly claimed by the Hudson’s 
Bay Company, or, as they style themselves, Puget Sound Agricultural —— 
Company. The United States Government having purchased all the 
rights of the company in the United States, has settled that question, — 
and are this present season surveying the land, and hence it may be 
fairly stated that there are no disturbing elements respecting land titles 


in the Territory. 


# The early settlers, prior to the year 1854, obtained their title under 


the operation of the donation law, giving at first 640 acres, and later 


* 


WEST OF THE CASCADE'MOUNTAINS. 31 


4 





320 acres, to heads of families, and half that quantity to single persons. 
Comparatively few claims were taken under the first provision, and 
hence half and quarter section claims are the rule in settled portions of 
the Territory. ‘The titles to these claims are safe and subject to private 
sale at prices ranging from three to twenty dollars per acre, according 
to the quality of the soil, the location and the improvements made. In 
addition to this, al] the land surveyed prior to 1860-61 has been “ off- 
ered,” and hence is now subject to private entry. 


** There are two classes of public lands; the one class at $1 25 per 
acre, which is designated as minimum, and the other at $2 50 per acre, 
double minimum. Where every alternate section of odd numbers is 
granted to a railroad, the balance is held as double minimum.” Title 
may be acquired by purchase, at public sale, or by ordinary private en- 
try, and by virtue of the pre-emption and homestead laws. 


Since the passage of the homestead law in 1862, there has been no 
land offered at public sale, and hence all the land surveyed since 
that.date has been left for the actual settler under the homestead and 
pre-emption laws. 

Homestead claims can be taken on surveyed land to the extent of 
one hundred and sixty acres on minimum and eighty acres ‘on double 
minimum by paying the office fees, amounting to $22 00. 

By a recent act of Congress, soldiers having served three months 
in ,the army and having an honorable discharge, are entitled to one hun- 
dred and sixty acres under the homestead law, on double minimum, or 
alternate reserved sections. 

“« Pre-emptions to the extent of one quarter section nay be made 
under the general-pre-emption laws upon ‘offered’ and ‘unoffered’ 
land; in certain cases, including Washington Territory, ‘‘may have 
legal inception by actual settlement upon unsurveyed land, although in 
such cases no definite proceedings can be had as to the completion of 
title until after the suryeys are officially returned to the district land 
office.” ~ 

: “«The act of March 3, 1853, extends the pre-emption for one quar- 
ter, or one hundred and sixty acres at $2 50 per acre to every ‘alter- 
nate’ United States or reserved section along the line of railroads.” 
The second section of the act of July 14, 1870, requires that ‘all 
claimants of pre-emption rights shall hereafter, when no shorter period 
of time is now prescribed by law, make the proper proof and payment 
for land claimed, within eighteen months after the date prescribed for 
filing their declaratory notices shall have expired: Provided, That where 


said date shall have elapsed before the passage of this act, said pre- 


emptor shall have one year after the passage hereof, in which to make 
such proof and payment.” | 


“This act leaves the provisions of law as heretofore respecting 
‘offered lands’ viz: filing within thirty days, and payment within 
twelve months after settlement.” Upon: surveyed unoffered land, filing 
within three months and payment within twenty-one months after settle- 
ment. 
There are two land offices West of the mountains, one at Olympia, 
~on the Sound, and one at Vancouver, on the right bank of the Colum- 

bia River. 


32 WEST OF THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS, 








The final location of the North Pacific Railroad will. no doubt, be 
made immediately, and upon which the Government will withdraw from 
settlement the alternate odd sections for a region of country forty miles 
wide on each side of the line, and hold the balance, or even numbers. 
as double metntmunt, or at $2 50 per acre if entered, or give d0 acres 
for homestead right. 

The policy of the railroad company in conformity to their interest, 
will be to encourage settlement, and hence there can be no doubt but 
every facility will be afforded for distributing the land at such a price. 
and upon such terms as will insure a speedy settlement. “I'here is no 
restriction respecting the price at which the company may sell their 
land until the expiration of five years after the completion of the road ; 
after that date, the company must sell for 82 50 per acre. 


TRADE OF PUGET SOUND. 


The Pacific Tribune of Sept. 25th, 1869, says:. By the kindness 
of Major Van Bokkelen, of the Custom House, we have been furnished 
with the following statement of the trade of Puget Sound District No. 
103, from July Ist, 1865, to June 30th, 1869: 

Coasting trade between Puget Sound and San Francisco—vessels 
enrolled and licensed in Puget Sound District: 13 schooners, 1 brig. 
25 barks and barkentines, 4 ships and 8 steamers; total, 51 vessels. 
‘Total tonnage, 17,439 50-100 

Vessels engaged in coasting trade that are enrolled and licensed in 
San Francisco District; 3 schooners, 5 brigs, 18 barks and barkentines, 
® ships; total, 31 vessels. Total tonnage, 12,839 98-100. 

Number of registered vessels that cleared coastwise during the 
vear ending June 30th, 1869: 51 vessels; tonnage, 25,045. 

The vessels engaged in the coasting trade between this district and 
San Francisco, have for the past ten years, never averaged less than 
seven trips annually, which makes the clearances coastwise as follows, 


for the year ending June 30th, 1869: 261,368 36-100 tons leaving the’ 


district. 
The shipments coastwisc, as far as can be obtained correctly, are 
as follows: 





CLE. VALUE. 

Viles, spars and sawed lumber, (rough,) all kinds........... 103,500.000 $1,035,000 
Pressed lumber of all kinds......... alge! a's ase wee lamslele ep A aiws'y a 52,500,000 1,050,000 
CORSTONRG C2. ecee sie aeeet ters oes vets e veces ncesavecsssnrss 93.680 153,020 
Misecllaucous articles of merehandise.............- Rib eile waht 3Y,500 
B2 278,420 


Number of vessels engaged in trading between the ports on the 
Sound, that never leave the district: 15 steamers, 1,350 39-100 tons ; 
24 sloops, 174 31-100 tons; 9 schooners, 227 34-100 tons! Forty- 
eight vessels, 1,752 04 tons. 
| Foreign trade during the vear ending June 80, 1869: 142 Ameri- 
can vessels, 38,759 36-100 tons ; 41 foreign vessels, 19,254 90-100 tons. 
Total, 183 vessels, 58,015 26-100 tons. ; 

Articles of foreign export and value: 

















SA PRR SL LOT as re yk iy Ae 8 oe oe ¥y 
# cs A = - has a a 

WEST OF THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS. 33 

é VALUR. 

Living animals, 13,285 head...... PP eae ae se IS le Ry OG pp a EN eee Reyer LONE LT 
PERE Ua wa cass knees 4atseciscebccedsada aa ye Si Or eee iy tie pte ie Wie aba RE n Selby a etna ee) o pb OEE. 
BUNCE nies os. con evn valde sp awe ve dedaweeny RES Ot SER ps 7 Dey h rene Pile cee an 1,500 
PAPERS Pi n)a'si are Gwe widw'e'd via ddd galcielc sluice aden daa bie' ore ter ee eee se ewe ww www oor eee eeree 23,002 
MPAELOUOINNTMIACLITCS 60s ce kes enn eee ek ve Cre elie pute ea had Sees Derk ees Sncate os 1,345 
MSCCIPANECOUSINENCHRADGIRG. oo ccc Ne ccek veils bg Pou Wins a cree eats can siloiswinse es braces oie 62,00 
PrOvisionSs.......2.0 ssecscecesscesees een csecsenertetenscecees de eeeeas oo 6,284 
Lumber, spars, piles and lumber assorted.......-...... ae ees Bole prams yc 207,045 
$495,256 

RECAVILULATION. 

Whole amount of coastwise tonnage...........-.- Oe ca sie eRe kek Gey cha COTATI OE: 
a * foreign trade tonuxge....... aeehiticue ci eteme Dis se - 53, (015 26-L0Ks 

-_ Total tonnage....++---++--++-+ Peniuely PCAN A Chae et NST od 319,383 12-100 

Value of exports RAE EWANE Hache 50s be 33K SP eye Ts CM eee OT OT ee v0 G25278 420 
fOTEIQD. 0s cccceesscce ccecseceseccesres cescccccsncconse 44D, 2Ms 

Total value of exports.......... YONG alsa a weldincs a4 5 os as esrescceePeyl sds? 


Imports coastwise cannot be ascertained, as vessels trading coast- 
wise do not report at Custom House. 
FOREIGN [MV’ORTS. 





VALUK. 

Merchandise admitted free of duty.......-------.--seeeeee Ug Seis eae es -$ 1,095 OV 
Paying duties.....---.scecescecenscccccoeseces ba GC Cw heya Gan! < aswel bahamas 62,886 4L 
$63,051 £1 


The value of the imports and exports of Puget Sound District, as 
far as can be ascertained, $2,837,987 41. 

Vessels sailing out of district regularly, under temporary papers 
issued in this district; 15 barks, tonnage, 6,372 90; two steamers, ton- 
nage, 579 48. ‘Total, 6,952 38 tons. 

Total tonnage recorded in district : 


a TONS. 
82 sail WER SOLN Serres eee he SIE id bo Wine ESO DUN ab wikia beh Sle e'ore'a a Sigiess aicuiae Cabin wats 22 G89 9 
SS RLCAMEMSe dice céedecess yan PULisiciWs veo Oacaes aneeuee a ain ola Mapiata dw wie eens oad 2525.71 








2AOID a6 


Vessels built in the district during the year. 


LONS 
MIBIOODPRy sas Ges ence see wes cane eas aistauee ks wie een Be Sie fae See ee es ese enn 12 
6 schooners...........-----> pa hate Peet otis She Poor wee ae PUTS Coie ER Cele oe 670 1 
4 barks and barkentines hale EMule Mate aes Galen e onte Ea pe ce ee SPREE Baye fet 1,934 51 
BADEIG si wc be vieca crt heeps sce ccnikh esq eee ss tive at au area 4's gy sia ye me wage ence 230 00 
PISALCAMEOIS: 3 a's os oboe DORs Ciera Har eae coer aN ig ae OMS help! Srcun Cy pietatea oe eta 938 Ox 


3,752 $2 

The following statement be been kindly furnished by Hon. M. 8. 

Drew, Collector of Customs for Puget Sound District, for the year end- 
ing Jane 30, 1870: 





Value of goods imported from foreign countries...............220.2..-.. $33,103 00 
MOABALat UT TULIOR LOLICCLER. 68) 603 OR Were weve ate Seb es epee 41,326 On 
EXPORTS OF DOMESTIC PRODUCE. 

Valae exported in American vessels Ses EG ete La lala art oaen i Ee gy $241,010 00 

“© Foreign iF Wiel MS au SPUR BAI CAP ELAM Nik cb PEGA D SL ena e RLS 149 005 00 
PEOURTESVOLLE LOLCISN bis soak sts Rog cin aE eR Cpa la Sach ae ies Shae Se $440,915 00 
Meer ATiIAlG OF ALR KIMASS, (O55 oo, aga eet eh een eho Lek. sate 43,713, 00 
MED E Ofs ALE KIMGAS os ae a eons boat em cee. En Gaon a Ne 266,288 0 
DEI OEHEE SP CICLER Oeics hee woe OR Cae Le AS Lea ee 4 SECU A APE VR Coon a can 130,914 Ov 
; $440,915 00 

a) 


7 





BA WASHINGTON TERRITORY 
TONNAGE BELONGING TO THE DISTRICT. 

u aay . real TONS.. 
“2 sailing vessels..........: SS) 8 Yair a -' Giae whe alee IE ECE oa Shin ks ba ween 13,711 09 
Rev SUCAMEOL Be Ks etc ee Rea she stw Viera} Ale ar ae beatae Une wa Nr TRL they 2 kee Ie LO 2,015 87 

S scows and barges::...... Ve cio bioe'be pee ee Abels eRb eee base BOs hon) Ge eebea see 140 77 

Total tomar ans 20055 Siu ctwe ces ea rere r abate ete e ec tele ve++015,867 73 


Vessels cleared during the year: American vesseis for foreign 
countries—115 steamers, 4 ships, 13 barks, 2 brigs, 13 schooners, 2 
sloops; total number of vessels, 149; number of tons, 55,606 25; 
number of men, 2,105. ‘ 

Foreign vessels for foreign countries: 6 steamers, 16 ships, 6 
barks, 3 sloops; total, 31; number of tons, 19,227 42; crew, 456. 

American vessels coastwise: 29 steamers, 11 ships, 18 barks, 1 
brig and 9 schooners; total, 68; number of tons, 31,779.74; crew, 
1,092. ‘Total number of vessels cleared, 248; total number of tons, 
106,613 41; crews, 3,653. 

Vessels entered during the year: American vessels from foreign 
countries—95 steamers, 1 ship, 10 barks, 1 brig, 18 schooners and 
22 sloops; total, 148; number cf tons, 39,840 06; crews, 1,852. 

Foreign vessels from foreign countries: 6 steamers, 7 ships and, 

.3 sloops; total, 16; number of tons, 5,366 57; crews, 62. 

| American vessels coastwise: 39 steamers, 18 ships, 43 barks, 3 
brigs and 6 schooners; total, 109; number of tons, 55,561 18; crews, 
1,853. Total number of American vessels entered, 272; total number 
of tons, 100,767 813 total number of crews, 3,502. 

In the coasting trade belonging to other ports there are eighteen 
vessels, viz: 1 ship, 12 barks, 1 brig and 4 schooners; total, 18; num- 
ber of tons, 7,761 25, 

_ The value of the shipments coastwise cannot be obtained from any 
other source than the mills from which the lumber is shipped, as vessels 
do not clear from this port unless sailing under a register. 

The year’s shipment coastwise is estimated at three million dollars, 
being an increase over the preceding year of nearly three hundred 
thousand dollars. 

Imports coastwise cannot be ascertained, as the vessels are not 


- obliged to repert at the Custom House except in certain cases. 


SHIP BUILDING. 


Eighteen vessels, of all kinds, including five steamers, were built 
on the Sound during the year ending June 30, 1869. The statistics are 
not at hand for the year 1869-70, but it is known that not so many have 
been built as during the previous year, in consequence of the low rate 
of freights prevailing on the coast and elsewhere. A ship of 1,000 
tons burden is on the stocks at Port Madison, building by Messrs. 
Meigs & Gawley of that place.. Some schooners are building for the 
cod fisheries of the North, and steamers for local trade. 

The board of marine underwriters of San Francisco, during the 
year 1867, instituted an inquiry respecting the cost of ship building on 
the Pacific coast, as compared with Eastern ship yards. The facts de- — 
veloped by these inquiries were that vessels could be built of the tim- 


oe 





- 


WEST OF THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS. 35 





ber found on this coast, all other finish the same, at a less price than on 
the Atlantic sea-board. 

The committee appointed to make the investigation say : 

““The growth of the business has also been hindered by grave 
doubts as to the strength and durability of our firs when used as ship 
timber. The predilections of all American and English shipwrights are 
naturally for oak; but oak has been scarce, or rather the oak of this 
coast has generally been found worthless for these purposes, while only 
_ the laurel has been found suitable as a substitute for it. Sufficient time 
has, however, elapsed to prove to us that we have several kinds of ship 
timber in the greatest abundance, and of a size and quality in every 
way better adapted for ship building than the timber used for many 
years back on the coast of Maine or the British Provinces. 

RED AND YELLOW Fir.—These trees, which constitute about one- 
half of the dense growth of timber of Oregon and Washington Terri- 
tory, have become celebrated throughout the world for their magnificent 
proportions and the serviceable (gat of the spars and lumber sup- 
plied from them. They frequently furnish sticks 150 feet long, 18x18 
and even 24x24 inches square, without a particle of sap, without a rent 
or check, perfectly sound and straight. Planks of this timber, 60 and 
90 feet long are readily obtainable, thus avoiding the necessity for more 
than one-third to one-half as many butts or scarphs in a ship’s sides, 
decks, or fore-and-aft timbers as are required in Eastern or European 
vessels. As to the strength of these woods many mechanics think it 
fully equal to that of Eastern white oak, and they all agree that if oak 
be stronger, nothing is easier than to use enough more of our fir to 
make up the difference in strength. In some other respects the fir has 
the advantage over oak. It contains just enough pitch to enable it to 
hold iron fastenings with a tenacity so great that bolts and spikes gen- 
erally break before they will draw out of it. Iron never becomes “sick” 
when imbedded in it, as it does when corroded by the acid which satu- 
rates all kinds of oak. As to its durability, we know*that although it 
has not yet been tested as the sole material of a guano or pepper ship, 
yet it has been extensively used for new timbers, planking, ceiling decks, 
keelsons and stancheons, in large vessels repaired on the coast; it has 
been the sole material used in building our coasting and river schoon- 
ers; it has built the Chrysopolis, Yosemite, Capital, Geo. S. Wright, 
John T. Wright, and many other river steamers. It has been used in 
doubling and rebuilding all the old steamers on this coast, and we have 
never yet met a ship-master who, during ow fifteen years oft this kind 
of experience, has complained of its want of durability.” os | 
* * * * * % 

“‘TIDE-LAND SPRUCE.—This tree is also abundant.in many parts of 
Washington Territory, Oregon and Alaska. It resembles the hackma- 
tack of the Eastern States, and is particularly suitable for top timbers 





a en rere 








*NOTE.—Experiments made by the,French authorities in the imperial dock - 
yard at Toulon, show that masts from Vancouver’s Island are superior to the best 
class of Riga spars. The report of the French engineers» which is equally appli- 
cable to the masts and spars of Puget Sound, says: “ The principal quality of 
these woods is a flexibility and tenacity df tibre rarely met with in trees so aged ; 
they may be bent and twisted several times in contrary directions without break- 
sia A and possesses other rare qualities, such as “exceptional dimensions, strength 
and lightness, absence of knots, &c.”’ 


36 WASHINGTON TERRITORY 

and natural crooks. Knees and breasthooks of almost any size can be 
procured from it; indeed, it is our principal dependence for these por- 
tions of a vessel’s frame, on account of its spredding its roots flat on 
the surface of the ground, ‘The durability of this wood is believed by 
mechanics to be about the same as that of hackmatack. It holds iron 


fastenings remarkably well, and grows to a size sufficient for all ship- 


building purposes.” 

“YELLOW CEDAR. This tree is undoubtedly the most valuable of all 
our trées for ship-building. It is found in great quantities at Coos Bay, 
thence g@long the coast of Oregon to Port Orford; also, on the islands 
and main land of Alaska. The Indians of the latter Territory have for 
ages used its trunk for their canoes. A vessel built of it at Sitka, thirty 
years ago, was recently examined, five years after she was wrecked, by 
the officers of the revenue steamer Lincoln, and the timbers appeared 
as sound and perfect as on the day she was launched. This cedar is 
much finer grained, handsomer, more dense, and a better timber in all 
respects than any other cedar known. It grows to a height of 175 feet, 
with a diameter of four feet. It is probably the finest material for 


decks in the world.” 
* = e * = * 


‘““ WHITE CEDAR.—This tree, the common cedar of the Eastern 
States, is found abundantly on the mountains in Washington Territory. 
It possesses here the same qualities as elsewhere, and is just as suitable for 
ship-building, and just as durable here as at the East. Logs of it have 
been found at Puget Sound under the roots of living trees four feet in 
diameter, yet remaining perfectly sound, showing that after two or three 
hundred years, it betrays no signs of decay ” 


‘‘Qak.—The oaks of this coast have been generally found unfit for 
ship-building, or indeed for any other mechanical purpose; yet we are 
informed that a sufficient amount of good oak can be procured about 
Puget Sound for stems, stern-posts and other portions of ship’s frame, 
especially if the timber be “docked” a long time before using it. 
Judge O. L. Shafter, late of the Supreme Court, who is largely inter- 
ested in the Point Reyes Rancho, informs us that a variety of oak is 
found in great abundance about Bodega and Tomales, which is just as 
good for every mechanical purpose as the best Connecticut pasture oak 


—that it grows to a sufficient’size for ship-building, furnishes a great - 


aumber of natural crooks, and is tough enough to make axe helves or 
wagon material. As Bodega and ‘lomales are good harbors, and of 
easy access, there is no reason why this material could not be delivered 
@t any point on the coast at a very moderate expense.” 


‘“‘LAUREL.—Considerable quantities of this timber are found on the 
northern coast range of California, and throughout Oregon and Wash- 
ington Territory. Sticks of 50 to 60 feet long may be frequently found 
‘large enough for keels and keelsons. It makes excellent material for 
|stancheons, stems and stern-posts, rudder-stocks, aprons, fife-rails and 
cabin finishing; for which latter purpose it is eminently fitted from its 
beautiful colors and susceptibility of taking a high polish. Its durabil- 
ity, however, when put into a ship’s frame between wind and water, has 
been questioned, and it has not been used extensively or long enough to 
‘settle this point definitely. ‘Those who are best qualified to judge, bes 


Ld 


"? 





a oy, 


re ae v yee wr eta ’ Pe eae ee ot “ag -. 2 feral fF re 
AES Pr iamrny Saye eare 4 dik sy US Shee nh Baer Mg 
a rae Fact. eye vi me eae ye 


WEST OF THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS, 37 





- 


lieve that when cut at the proper time of year, and well seasoned before 


using, there will be no trouble about its durability.” 
a * Bis * 5 


* * * 


“ForrEIGN Woops.—lIf it should, however, be found that none of 
our present coast woods are suitable for those portions of a ship’s frame 
usually constructed of hard wood, there is no doubt we can import the 
teak from India, or the koah wood, from the Sandwich Islands, or the 
mahogany, from Central America and Mexico, or oak from Australia, as 
eheaply as foreign woods are now imported into Great Britain for ship- 
huilding purposes; provided the transportation be effected in suitable 
vessels and on a large scale. We should he no worse off in this respect 
than the ship-builders of New York, Boston or Maine, nearly all of 
whose timber is now procured from a great distance.” 

‘“TRON—Has lately begun to be produced near St. Helens, Oregon, 
‘rom amine said to be inexhaustible, and yielding an ore so rich, that 
we are informed that shoe shapes may be hammered out, or castings 
made at the furnace from the first melting. This mine is surrounded 


- by exhaustless material for charcoal. It is owned by men of large 


sapital and enterprise, who will doybtless soon be able to produce iron 
of every description below the present cost of importation.” 
‘ * * * # * * 

“PircH, far, TURPENTINE AND RosIn.--During the first years of the 
late war, the high prices of these articles stimulated several parties to 
attempt their production, both in this State and in Washington Terri-_ 
tory. The result was a finer article of pitch and rosin than any. ever 
imported from the Carolinas or Stockholm, and the discovery that if 
there was a larger demand, both of these articles, and also a fine quality 
of turpentine can be produced in any quantity, and at prices below the 
<ost of importation, almost at the ship-yards themselves. Single trees 
zre frequently met with on Puget Souud, whence from two to ten har- 
rels of raw pitch can be drawn at one tapping. The Sugar Pine of Cal- 
ifornia also yields a superior article of pitch and rosin.” 

‘‘CoaL—Of a quality resembling anthracite is found at a mine a 
few miles from Seattle, on Puget Sound. The principal article of export 
from Coos Bay and Bellingham Bay, is coal of a quality sufficiently 
good for all purposes connected with ship-building; and it can be fur- 
nished at the yards adjacent at much less than New York or Boston 
prices.” 

*¢ CORDAGE AND OakUM—Can be supplied in any quantity, and at 
prices below the cost of importations by the San Francisco Cordage 
Factory—an establishment that has for twelve years past supplied a 
large portion of the Manilla rope used on thiscoast. We are not aware 
that this establishment has yet undertaken the manufacture of tarred 
rigging, but there can be no doubt that, as soon as our farmers have 
made up their minds to raise hemp—for which many parts of our State 
are specially adapted—this, or some similar ropewalk will be able to 
supply all the tarred rigging required on this coast for both new and old 
vessels.” 

“‘ Spars.—Since Puget Sound has for years supplied several Brit- 
ish and French ports, China and Australia, with the finest spars in the 
world, it is needless for us to allude to this important item, except to 


remark, that in nearly all the prominent ship-yards of the old world a 





38 WASHINGTON TERRITORY 





heavy freight has to be paid on spars, because they require vessels of a 


large size to be injured for other purposes by the cutting of bow-ports ; 


while the bulky nature of the cargo requires a long time for loading and 
discharging. All this is wholly saved at Puget Sound and at all other 
of our lumber ports, where the finest of spars can be procured in im- 
mense quantities for the mere cost of cutting and towing them to the 


yards.” 


MANUFACTURING, 


Manufacturing interests are almost entirely undeveloped, except 
that of lumber of all kinds, which it is thought has obtained a character 
second to none on the continent. One hundred and eighty million feet 
of lumber of all kinds were manufactured and shipped from thirteen of 
the principal mills on the Sound, during the years 1869-70, not to speak 

-of the home consumption, the supply of which is usually obtained from 

nejghborhood mills erected upon water powers, found in almost every 
‘settlement. The full capacity is much larger than the amount actually 
made. This is accounted for by the fact that lumber is “‘ down” in the 
markets, and hence all are runhing upon eesy time until business be- 
comes better. 

But few hides are now exported, yet. the principal portion of the 
leather manufactured by our tanneries is sent to San Francisco, and 
boots and shoes purchased in the same market to supply the demand. 
There is one tannery at Tumwater, one at Steilacoom and one at Seat- 
tle, all doing a thriving business. 

‘There are two flouring mills at Tumwater, two near Steilacoom one 
at Seattle and one at Port Gamble, that are in close proximity to the 
Sound. These mills import large quantities of wheat from Oregon and 
California, in addition to that obtained from the farmers, and supply not 
only the local demand for the lumbermen and towns on the Sound, but 
ship to British Columbia and the Northern markets. The aggregate ca- 
pacity of these mills are three hundred bushels every twenty-four hours 

ne woolen factory has recently been erected near Steilacoom, at a 
cost of twenty thousand dollars, but not yet running. It is hoped this 
will be the precursor of others to follow, that will effectually check the 
export of wool, and a corresponding import of woolen fabrics. 

Three foundries and machine shops, one at Olympia, one at Seat- 
tle and one at Port Madison, supply only in part the wants of the com- 
munity in their line, as-they cast only to order. 


Other minor branches of manufacturing and mechanical industry, | 


such as wagon, blacksmith and cooper shops, sash and door factories, 
cabinet shops, boot and shoe shops, that supply the local demand, are 
followed in the different towns and localities suited to their wants. 

There is a boot and shoe manufactory at Olympia, established on 
a paying basis. A new furniture manufactory has recently been estab- 
lished at Tumwater that will be able to supply the trade at Eastern 
rates, : 













































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OFFICE. | RESIDENCE. | COMPEN. | 


Edward S. Salomon, .....|Governor....... Olympia....} $3,000 
Eltas( Wolf, 2.2.2. .02.. J)Private Secretary eh aa : 

JAMES SCOtt ew icy kag Secretary Mi i x APO iameap +s UA! & 

B. Po Perry ols. oaservevor (Geng i Rel i) DOO hai aae 
Col. Samuel Ross,........|/Sup’t Ind. Aff.. ¢ These an), ¥ 
Maj ‘Thos. H.-Hay, .....jIndian Agent... ‘WQuenailt eh! ON eae pay 
Capt. Geo. D. Hill, Hola hae eT el ada rash eas officers 

Lieut. Jas. H. Kelly,. Be MN OE aut Skolkamishs 1 UB. ae ay 
iLieut.Jos. M. Smith, 0a ¢ re Simcoe... ..| | det. duty. Me , 
Orange Jacobs, Chief Jus. 3d D.!Seattle ...| $2,500 

‘Jas. K. Kennedy, .|Asso, §* Ist D.;Walla Walla *2,500 

Roger S. Greeiie, 1ASSO. 20/20" DaOhynipia 0 1 Quote 
Leander Holmes, U.S. Attorney. ./Vanconver. [250 & tees. oh 
_E. S. Kearney, #2 Marshal \.:; Walla Wallai250 “+ > 
Hazard Stevens, Collector 4, Olympia ud B.OUKy pina 
Jas. R. Hayden,.. Assessor . Js ABLO periday Was 
M.S. “Drew, ¢4:05 S205’. Coli cof Customis:|P. Townsend cal seein 
F. M. Lamper,. .../Ree. Land Office Olympia. , SOQ Shiske a! 
Jacob P. Clark, PRADA SESE SS tL OU ee 
Samuel W. Brown! Reo) 4 ‘* |Vancouver . . 511 Unsaid 

E. G. Adams, Pees! ns al COU) Say Rec IRE 

¥ i 


BY SHE TERRITORY. 


_§. H. Mann, ..|Librarian ..| $400 

_J.G. Sparks, Ter. Auditor A OOD me 
Hill Harmon, Ter. Treasurer. Ks 14 per cent. _ 

Andrew J. Cane,.. .|Pros. Atty Ist D.|Walla Walla $1,000 

A. G. Cook,. 66 4 2d DA Vancouver: E0003. tagaae 

Chas. M. ‘Bradshaw, . RESINS Bh ee Bs Townsend} 7 UE OOOA SN a 


inal ak oR en tr ee 


MEMBERS OF THE LEGISLATURE. 


HOUSE. 


Thurston county—D. R. Bigelow and R. Brewer. Thtiustih RAS 
Chehalis—Edward Campbell. Jefferson—J. J. H. Van, Bokkelen, 
Jefferson and Kitsap—Edward Vrooman. jE, a 6 A Stetson. 
-Pierce—R. S. Moore. Pierce and Mason—Stephen Judson. Walla . 

Walla—Jas. H. Lasater, David Ashpaugh, Elisha Ping, T. W. Whet- 
SEONG John Scott and N. G. Lloyd. Clarke—Jas. H. Herns, G. W. Max- 
well, S. D. Maxon and W.C. Abbott. Stevens—Park Winans. Lewis 
-——W. B. Gosnell. Pacific—Charles Barstow. Snohomish—W. B. Sin- 
clair. Whatcom-——C. C. Finkbonner. Klickitat—H. ). Cock. Ska-’ 
mania—J. W. Brazee. Clalm—Hezekiah Davis. Ne ea biked 








Bd AS TT RR ee ZN i! lll Pan Be) WToth Aah i 
5, io ee EY st |S A 


a 





WEST OF THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS. AL 


Conaha, T. D. Hinckley. Island—Thomas Coupe. Cowlitz and Wah- 
-kiakum—Geo, Gray. 


\ 





COUNCIL. 


Thurston and Lewis—E. L. Smith. Jefferson and Clalm—G. V. 
Calhoun. Clarke, Cowlitz, &c.—William Huntington. Clarke, Klicki- 
tat, &e.—E. S. Joslyn. Snohomish, &¢.—H. A. Smith. Walla Walla, 
&c.—D. Stewart, H. D. O’Bryant. Pierce, Mason and Chehalis— John 
McReavy. King and Kitsap—Joseph Foster. 


STATE CONSTITUTION. 


The question of calling a convention to form a State constitution 

was submitted to the voters of the Territory at the election held in June, 

1870. A very light vote was cast, with the following result: For con- 
vention, 974. Against convention, 1,109. Majority against conven- 
~ tion, 130. 


PRICES CURRENT. 


The subjoined table of prices current is intended to exhibit the av- 
erage cost to purchasers in the towns and market places on the Sound, 
for the year 1869-70. In the Southern part of the Territory, near the 
Columbia River, many articles of country produce are lower, other arti- 
cles about the same : 
GROCERIES AND PROVISIONS. 


Beans—Cal. red 5a 8e; home product 6e. 
Butter—37 4c. 
' Bread—Navy 44c¢; pilot 5c; butter cruckeys Sc; soda crackers 8e; 

sugar erackers 10c; pic-nic crackers Xe: soft bred, fresh 5c. 

Cheese—22c. 

Coffee—25(@30 ; Java, 40c. 

Coil Oil—60/AT0e ¥ gal. 

Cod Fish—9c. 


Candles—20dc. \ 
Cream Tartar—624c. 
nN Eggs—s3ic + doz. 


Fish—Salmon $10 ff bbl; fresh 2aoe HY" th. 
Flour—Ranier $5 50 4" bbl: extra family 6 00; AXXM Lincoln 
Mills 6 60. 
Honey—Home raised 25 ¢ if th: Bastern in cans 37. 
Lard—18/@20c. i | 
Molassés—50c ¥ gal. 
Onions—$1, 50 ¢ bu. 
Peas—s3e |b. 
Potatoes—1c ¥ ib. 
Rice—9e tf tb; 50 th sacks $4 00. 
Syrup—90ca@$1 00 Ef gal. 
Sugar—Sandwich Island #" tb 10 to 14c; Cal. refined L4/a 166. 
Saleratus—128(@16 cdf” tb. 
—- Soap—$1 50 to 2 00 Y box. 
fir pices cola) sine df” hot. 
DOTS 





WASHINGTON TERRITORY Kean 


Salt—Unground, $1 30 ra hundred ; + halt ground, 2 005 fi 


3 ND ey 
Tea—75ec to $1 25, a tb. 
BOOTS AND SHOES. by 


- Kastern and () ‘alifornia—Children copper toe kip, $1 00 > airs) 
lo. morocco, 1 50 to 2 75; do. calf skin or kid 1 50 to 2 00; calf. ain 
inisses’, (pegged) 150 to 175; do. sewed 2 00 to 3 00; morocco, cloth 
and misses? 3 00; ladies’ peg kip shoes 1 40 to 175; sewed kip ‘or eal: 

2 00 to 3 00; kid, cloth or morocco 2 50 to + 00; ladies’ and mens 
slippers 1 00 to 2 ‘005 boys’ boots 1 75 to 5 00; mens’ boots 4 00 to 9 00; 
‘mens’ brogan 1 50 to 2 50; rubber boots 5 00 to 7 00. Se a 
Home Manufactured—Mens’ stoga boots $63 00 hg ed do, ie 
iS 00; do. heavy brogans 36 00. i 


DRY-GOODS. AND CLOTHING. Tihs Maen 


Alapaca—i0/@1 50 4 yard. | | ls 
- Blankets—Oregon manufactured 4’ pair, No. 1 1 $10 00; do. No.’ 
cy “505 do. No. 3 6 30's 14 th, $15. en iy ses 
Domenie on wave standard, No. 1, 18¢; do. No. 2, 6 Hight 13) cy 
DeLanes—One-half wool Qe df” yard. . i oa rer 
Denims—20c + yard. . | | 
4 ital toaster 3-4 white, No. 1, 30c; No. 2, 40c;' No. 3, Main 
Oregon manufactured 4-4 75ce; do. fancy colored 3.4, 623; do. iting eae 
624; Canton 25 to 374 4 yard; one-half wool 374/@62c ¥ yard. | 
_ Hickory Shirting—20(@25c 4 yard. 
Doe Skin—$1 25 to 1 50 9 sani do. fancy 1 50. 
Mens’ Pants—$2 00 to 12 00 wy pair; duck 1 00 to 1 
‘75e to 1 26, 
_ Hats —Mens’ hats $1 50 to 5 00 each. 
- Overcoats—$6 00 to 40 00 each. ie 
Suits—Mens’ beaver $25 00 to 27 50; do. frock 30 00 to. 35 00; 


4 


lbagsimere 12 00 to 30 00; black cloth 30 00 to 50 00; ae is bas to if a 


~ 20 00. 

“ Shirts—-Mens’ white $1 50 to 3 00; 

4 00; undershirts and drawers 1 75 to 5 00 ef pair. — 7 hear 
at Shavils—72x72; plaid, $4 50; do. black cashmere 3 5 00; 4 4 single ay) 
$2 50 to 6 00; 4-4 double 4 00 to 12 00. — a 

Sheeting—-Unbleached 4-4 4 oy 1de ‘to 306; bleached + 
do. 6-4. 374¢e; do, 10-4 628. 


MEATS AND Pia WHOLESALE, 


10¢5 corned $14 00 to 18 00 ¥ bbl. ie 

“ Mutton—Nett 6c; live weight $2 50 to 3 50 tf” eed. . 
Pork—Slaughtered 7/@8c; gross 6c; $24 00 be bbl 300 tbs, 
Beef—$14 00 to 18 O04 bbl 
Potatoes—50c bu. 

| Cabbage—iTic “doz. 

Beets—$1 00 ¢f bu. 

— Carrots—75e¢ ¢ bu. 
Tomatoes—se df’ lb. 


ahs 








ft 


«WEST OF THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS. = 48 





Lurnips—50c 4p" bu. heat 
; RETAT.. 

_ Beef--Grass fed (summer) 87@124c; stall fed (winter) L0@15c. 
’ Mufton—Ti@1230 ¥Y th. i 

Pork—10@1240 YY tb. % 

| OTHER ARTICLES. 

Hides~-Green, 5c. 

Tallow-—T@10c. 

Milch Cows—$30(@65. 

Hay-—In bales $16/@18. 

Chickens” doz $3 00@4 00. 

SADDLERY. 


Harness—No 1 Con. harness, silver plated, hames, breeching $50 00; 
do. trace bearers 42 50; 2 do. plain breeching 45 00; do. trace bearers 
40 00; common clef harness, breeching 35 00; do. trace bearers 30 00; 
short tug harness 25 00/@30 00; double carriage harness 60 00 and up-_ 
ward; do. single 30 00 and upwards. 

Saddles—Ranchero, full seat $25 00 to 30 00; do. half seat 18 00 


~ . to 80 00; common 15 00 to 20 00. 





STATIONERY 
. Paper—-Congréss letter $5 00 to 7 00 ¢ ream; legal cap 6 00 to 

§ 00; Con. cap 6 00 to 7 50; flat cap, 16t, 5 50; printing, 24x34, 
6 00; drawing paper 12 to 50c # sheet. 

fracing Cloth—40 in., 81 00 df yard. 

Cards—Printers’ $1 87 to 4 00 # M. 

Blank Books—One-half bound 42c  qr.; full bound 80c ¢ qr.; 
buund Russia 1 50 4 qr. 

Wrapping Paper—Manilla $2 25 ¢f’ ream; straw 1 10; hemp 3 00., 

Linvelopes—d gov., $4 00 to 6 00 ef M,; 9/@10 9 00 to 10 50.: 

PAINTS AND PAINTING. 

Wages—34 00/@S 00 4 day; by contract, d square, two coats, 
3 0074 00. 

Ou—$1 75 HY gal. 

Furpentine—B1 25/01 50 ¢ gal. nes 

Wiite Lead—$3 00, 3 50@4 00 Y kg 35 Ib. r 

Varmish—$3 50 to 10 00 dp gal. : 

Ground Paints—tin oil, 50c ef tb. 

Brushes—50c to $3 50 each. 

Gola Leaf—iic F book. 

Glass—$2 50/8 .00 4 box. 

Paper Hanging—25H@50c ¢f" roll. 

Apples—Green, 1/@2c Y¥ tb; dried 6@10c. 

Pears—Green, 2/@3c ¥f th. 

Cranberries—25(@373 ep gat. 

Stroberries—1 W200 Y th. 

FURNITURE. 

Chamber Seis—Soft wood $45 60 to 63 O0; hard wood, curly ma- 

ple $100. 00, ; 























44 WASHINGTON TERRITORY 








— Bureaus—Maple #25 00 to 40 00: cedar 15 00. 
Lables—Maple extension $2 50 ¥* foot: breakfast, maple and al- 
der 87 00 to 10 00. . 

_ Redsteads—Hardwood cottage, maple and alder $6 00 to 8 00. 

CRairs—Winsor $1 25 to 1 50 each; extra Grecian, Eastern make, 
®2 25 to 2 50; ladies’ dining rosewood $3 00 te 3 50 each. 

Mattresses—Spring, double $20 00; three-fourths 15 00. 

Lounges—¥20 00 to 35 00 each, according to finish. 

Carpet—2 ply #1 25 ¢ yard; 3 ply 1 75; Brussels 1 75. 

Matting—-25 to 374 4 yard; drugget $1 50. 


TOWNS, 


SEATTLE. 


Seattle is in'North latitude 47° 36/, longitude 45° 21’, West from 
Washington. Elliott bay, the Seattle harbor, is a part of the waters 
known. as Admiralty Inlet. and is on the East side of the channel, forty- 
five miles from the Straits of Juan de Fuca, and one hundred and thir- 
ty-six from the Pacific Ocean by the ship channel. Eighty miles in the 
Straits, bearing nearly due East, will average twelve miles in width, the 
remainder of the distance bearing nearly South-East through a channel 
averaging three and a half miles wide, and comparatively straight ; 
hence vessels are seldom detained in the passage to and from this 
harbor. . 

The following is the description of Seattle and uwamish (Elliot) 
Bay, as taken from the U. S. coast survey: . 

“‘Abreast of Port Madison the eastern shore of the inlet retreats 
and there receives several small streams of water, but it gradually makes 
out into a very long, low sand point, called West Point, which forms 
the extreme northwest part of the entrance to Duwamish Bay The bay 
runs east by south six and a half miles and has a width of two miles. 
To the south point, called Battery Point, which is low and hare, with a 
curiously shaped mound rising sharply behind it, the course is about 
southeast by south, and distance four and a half miles. Under West: 
Point there is anchorage in ten to fifteen fathoms after getting towards 
the bluff: but on the north side of the point the water is very deep. 
Through the center of the bay the depth ranges from eighty-eight to 
forty fathoms On the north side of Battery Point a vessel anchoring 
in twenty fathoms, cannot have a greater scope of chain than thirty-five 
fathoms, without being too close to theshore. When we anchored there 
in thirteen fathoms and veered to twenty-five fathoms of chain the ves- 
sel’s stern was in two anda half fathoms. The beach is smooth and 
very regular, being composed of sand and gravel. On this side of 
Battery Point is the deserted town of Alki, the Indian phrase for “by 
and by.”) The town has had several names, but there.is nothing about 
it to command trade : 

‘The bluff head within the bay, two miles north northeast of Bat-_ 
tery Point, is Duwamish Head. It is steep, about one hundred ‘and fif- 
ty feet high, covered with timber, and the beach at low water stretches 









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“WEST OF THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS. 43 


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out over a quarter of a mile north-northwest from it. The head of the 
bay receives the Jkiwamish River, and tor one or two miles is an exten- 
sive flat, bare at low water.” ; ee 
By the U.S census for 1870, there are 1142 inhabitants in this place. 
There are always many transient persons from the mills and numerous 
logging camps, who throng the business streets by day and tax the ho- 
tels to their utmost capacity by night. The greater part of the town is 
built upon a rather abrupt hill-side, facing the bay, which gives a splen- 
did view as one recedes from the water. : : 
r The Seattle [ntelligencer, of July 18th, 1870, says: «Last year 
there were constructed in this city one church (Catholic), eleven build- 
ings for stores, and thirty-seven one and two-story dwelling-houses, be- 
sides some twenty odd smaller buildings. This year, up to the present 
time, there have been built, and are in process of construction, one 
church (Episcopal), one public school building, three warehouses, seven 
business houses, one livery and sale stable, and forty-eight one and two- 
story dwelling houses, some of then quite expensive structures, besides 
an unusual number of smaller tenements. Two or three of our hotels 
have been greatly enlarged and improved to accommodate their increas- 
ing business.” | | 
) Many neat residences, with fruit grounds and gardens, are found 
here, adding beauty and comfort to the place Here, as elsewhere on 
the Sound, fruit of all kiftds is produced in great abundance. About 
one-half of the lumber interest on the Sound is within a radius of twen- 
ty-five miles of this place, which alone is sufficient to build up a large 
and lucrative traffic. 
) In addition to this trade, Seattle has easy access by river naviga- 
tion to Duwamish and White river bottoms, one of the finest-agricul- 
tural regions near. the Sound that has been settled. ‘The coal mines 
now being developed give an additional impetus to the trade and im- 
provements. 
» The Territotial University is handsomely located upon the rising 
ground back of the city. The building is one of the finest in the Ter- 
ritory, and large enough to accommodate the wants of a much larger 
population than is now in the erritory. 
| Beautiful, clear lakes, of pure water, abound in the region adjacent 
to the Sound, oftentimes high up on the table lands. Lake Washing- 
ton, eighteen miles long, and averaging about two miles in width, lies 
immediately East of Seattle, and nearly parallel to the bay. ‘This lake 
lies but little above tide water. and is connected with the bay by its out- 
let, Black river, and through the channel of Duwamish river, altogether 
nearly enclosing as an island the ground upon which the town is built. 
At a light cost this inland navigation can be rendered available for light 
draft steamers, adding a beautiful water front to the city, should the 
wants of commerce ever demand so large an area. ‘The lake is already 
| used for the transportation of coal from the Lake Washington mines, 
~ in connection with tram roads on either side. 


OLYMPIA 


Olympia is the Capital of the ‘Territory, and is situated at the head 
-of the Sound in North latitude 47° 03’, longitude 45° 55’, West from 
Washington, and contains 1,502 inhabitants. 


} 








46 | WASHINGTON TERRITORY 





Budd’s Inlet, upon which the town is built, is described by the 
United States Coast Survey as ‘six miles long, three-quarters of a mile 
wide, and runs nearly South. The shores are steep and wooded, and 
the head of the bay is an immense mud flat, behind which is the town,. 
It acquires prospective importance by being the Capital of the Territory, 
but especially on account of its proximity to the Columbia River Valley, 
and to the head-waters of the Chehalis. A depth of three fathoms can 
be carried on the West side of Budd’s Inlet, within one and a half 
amiles of the wharf, and one fathom within a mile on the Eastern side. 
Vessels are brought up to the wharf at the highest tides, and then rest 
im the mud untii ready to- leave. 

“The approximate corrected establishment is 5 bh. 8 m., and the 
mean rise and fall of tides 9 .2 feet. a 

«The greatest difference betwern the highest and lowest tides is 


‘ reported about twenty-four feet, and is doubtless more than this, when 


we compare its position with that of Steilacoom.” This measurement 
is in nautical miles. ‘The entrance to the bay is nearly one statute mile 
in width, soon widening out to one and a half miles, becomes narrow 
opposite the wharves, and passing on to the South one mile and a half, 
at an average width of not more than 400 yards, receives the Deschutes 
river at Tumwater, a town of 200 inhabitants. 

This river, by a succession of falls within the distance of three bun- 
dred yards, descends eighty-five feet, and at the very lowest stage 
affords a volume of water of 2,500 cubic inches, at a velocity of 
322 feet per minute. During the greater part of the year it is estima- 
ted that more than double that volume of water pours over these falls, 
and at any tinre during a still evening the rush of waters can be heard 
for miles through the surrounding country. 

Ocean-going steamers, and vessels of several hundred tons burthen 
reach the wharves at high tide, and remain until discharged. 

The land adjacent to the bay is elevated above the water about fifty 
feet at the front, at some points rising still higher as you recede from 
the bay, at others running off level. At the point where the town is 
built the hills seem crowded back from the front, and form a sort of 
valley, which, with the tide-flat to the North and West, is estimated to 
cover an area of five square miles, that would be level or nearly so; the 
adjacent lands to the South and West rising gradually to an elevation 
of about one hundred and twenty-five feet, and continues so to Tum- 


~ 


water, overlooking the bay to the West.and North. 
The interests of Tumwater and Olympia are so near identical, their 
loeation such as eventually to run together and form one city, that for 
“the purposes of this article it is sufficient to describe them together. 
This is the nearest point of the Sound to the Columbia River, and 
hence all the travel overland concentrates at this place. Two Hnes of 
daily stages run each way between this place and the Columbia River, 
besides extras as demanded. ‘Two lines of semi-weekly steamers run 
North from Olympia, leaving Mondays and Thursdays, returning Wed- 
nesdays and Saturdays. Rao ana 
Ample as the water power of the Deschutes river is without im- 
provement, it can be made much greater by a small outlay. In addition 
to this, Black Lake, but three miles distant, at an elevation of one hun- 








is 


- 


WEST OF THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS. 47 





dred and forty feet, can easily be turned into the ravine formed by 


-**Percival’s creek,” and furnish a very large water power. From the 


position of Black Lake and the Chehalis, it seems practicable to turn 
the waters of the latter into the lake, and thence to the Sound. This 
done, an immense power would follow, besides an inland water commu- 
nication with the clay region of the Chehalis and surrounding country. 

Mr. R. A. Abbott, builder, furnishes the subjoined statement of the 
buildings erected in the town of Olympia within a period of twelve 
months just passed: 47 dwellings, 11 stores, 1 brick bank, 2 hotels, 1 
brick jail, 1 church, 35 smaller buildings, 1 saw mill, 2 sash and blind 
factories, 1 cabinet manufactory, 1 wagon shop and 1 gun shop. 

At Tumwater valuable improvements haye recently been made. A 
new large saw mill has been built, a furniture and water-pipe manufac- 
tury established, besides other improvements of minor importance. 


STEILACOOM. 


Steilacoom is the county seat of Pierce county, and is handsomely 
located on the Sound just South of the ‘‘ Narrows,” connecting Puget 
Sound with Admiralty Inlet, and contains about three hundred inhabit- 
ants. The county buildings consist of a wooden court house and brick 
jail, costing ten thousand dollars. The other public buildings in the 
town are three churches, two school houses and a Masonic hall. The 
Sisters of Charity have established a boarding school for girls here, and 
usually have about forty scholars. The mail steamers of the Sound call 
four times a week in making their semi-weekly trips, besides the tow 
boats and independent line of steamers. A line of lumber vessels run 
direct to San Francisco, carrying freight and passengers at reasonable 
rates. The insane asylum buildings, formerly the officer’s quarters at 
Fort Steilacoom, are one and a quarter miles East, and are handsomely 
located upon an open, dry prairie, with neat surroundings and a beauti- 
ful landscape. ‘The insane are yet kept near Monticello, and will not 
be removed prior to July, 1871. The penitentiary is located upona > 
small island near the town, upon which work is soon to commence. At 
present the prisoners are kept in the county jail. 

The harbor is large and commodious, deep water close up to the 
shores, and the anchorage good. The surrounding country back for a 
region of twelve miles square is upland prairie and timber, dotted with 
beautiful lakes of pure water, skirted with scrub oak, resembling in the 
distance the large apple orchards of older settled communities. | 

Over all the country mentiorted there is a beautiful carriage way in 
almost every direction, both winter and summer, as the soil is sandy and 
gravelly and never muddy. The scenery in this vicinity is excelled no- 
where onthe coast. Four snow-capped peaks, St. Helens, Mt. Ranier, 
Adams and Hood, one of which is known to be a smouldering volcano, 
lies in the distance to the East and the South. The ragged Coast, or 
Olympian Range, is seen to the West, besidesa beautiful fore-ground of 
dark green, never ending timber on the foot-hills adjacent to the Puy- 
allup, Nisqually and White rivers, to the East and North, and to Hood’s — 
Canal to the West. 3 . 

Steilacoom creek falls into the bay just below the town, giving 
ooh to one flouring mill and woolen factory recently erected, yet 
teaving the principal part of the power to run to waste. , ‘The creek it- 


- 





48 WASHINGTON TERRITORY , i” 
sla ile He MAb ASSEN FURIE NOs ded RUM casa eka ai UM Ra Ar Mo! a 
} 

self is but three and one-half miles long, rising in a lake Mast of the 

town, falling in that distance nearly two hundred feet. The banks are 

literally lined with springs, some of which-alone are large enough fur 

mill powers, one in the vicinity being used for that purpose. 

PORT TOWNSEND. 
Port ‘fownsend is the county seat of Jefferson county, and contains 

about five hundred inhabitants. 

Point Wilson, just outside the harbor. is in latitude 48° 08’, lonyi- 

tude 46° 44’, West from Washington. and with Marrowstone Point op- 

posite, on Whidby’s Island, forms the entrance to Admiralty Inlet. - 

Quimper Peninsula, upon which Port Townsend is built, is ae- is fom 

scribed by George Davidson, assistant coast survey, as having © three 
“miles in width and ten miles in length, offering great advantagesas a lo- 
cation for a town,” situated, as it is, with Port Discovery bay on the ouc, 
side and Port Townsend on the other. : 
| _ ‘The harbor is described in the United States coast survey as being’ 
“favorably situated at the termination of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. 
at the outlet of the waters of Admiralty Inlet, Puget Sound, &c., and 


in proximity to the great labyrinth of inland waters of British Colum- 4 
bia. The entrance lies between Point Wilson and Marrowstone Point, % 
the latter bearing east-southeast three and five-eighths miles from the 2 
former. Upon this line, and even outside of it, hes a bank extending , 
two-thirds of the distance from Marrowstone, aud having from six to me 
fifteen fathoms, with hard, sandy bottom. Inside of Point Wilson. mani 
which is composed of low, sandy hillocks, as heretofore described, lies 

another low point called Point Hudson, distant one and three-quarters | 
miles, southeast by south half south. os 
i ** Starting from the entrance line, about one and a half miles from ies 
Marrowstone, the mid-channel course of the bay is south-southwest, three a 


miles, with an average width of two; thence southest one-third south 
for three and a quarter miles, with an average width of one and a quar- 
ter. The depth of water throughout is very regular, and ranges from 
eight to fifteen fathoms, with soft, muddy bottum inside of Point Hud- 
son. Vessels coming from the strait steer for Point Hudson, as soon as 
it is opened by Point Wilson, passing the latter close, as twenty fath- 
oms are found one hundred or two hundred yards off it. Upon ap- 
proaching Point Hudson, and when within half a mile of it, gradually 
keep away about a quarter of a mile in from five to ten fathoms, and, 
as it opens, run quite close, with the sumimer wind off shore, to save 
making a tack ; keep along half a mile to the town situated under the 
Prairie Bluff, and anchor anywhere off the town in ten to twelve fath- 
oms, about u quarter of a mile from shore. In winter, anchor. further 
out, to clear Point Hudson, in getting under way with a southeaster.” 
‘A military post has been established (since abandoned,) on the 
bluff. two and a half miles south by west from the town, and on a site 
which commands one of the most beautiful views in these waters, hav- 
ing the bluff and varied shores of the bay on either hand; .Admiralty 
Head, six. miles distant; in the middle ground several distant, wooded 
ridges, andin the back ground the snow-covered, double summit of 
Mount Baker, ten thousand nine hundred feet in height, with the mouth 
of the crater distinctly visible hetween the peaks, and at times emitting 
vast volumes of smoke. . ‘the elevation of the line of perpetual snow 








WEST OF THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS. 49 





' 


upon this mountain is three thousand one hundred and forty-five feet. 
The present business part of the town is built upon a low, sandy 
beach, of but a few acres in extent, immediately adjoining which is an 
abrupt white bluff, elevated approximately one hundred feet above tide 
water. Unlike the general character of the land bordering on the 
Sound, this elev cated - ‘prairie is slightly undulating, but comparatively, 
smooth, witha quick, fertile gar den soil upon the surface, 
Upon this elevation is found the neat residences of the citizens, the’ 
marine hospital, churches, school-housés, &c. The Custom House for 
the Puget Sound district is located upon the beach below, hence all for- 
eign shipping are sys Sonn to enter and clear at this place. 


¥ ANCOUVER. 


--~ Vancouver is handsomely located upon the right bank of the Co- 
lumbia river, 140 miles from the mouth, in latitude 45° 38’, longitude, . 
45° 40’, West from Washington, and contains 959 inhabitants. : 

Ships of any size that can cross the bar at the mouth of the river 
can_ascend with safety to this place. The tide affects the river this far 
up, often setting in with considerable current below. ‘The, Iudson’s 
Bay Company early selected this location as a site for a chief trading 
post, and interfered for a time with a part of the land needed tor city 
purposes; afterwards the Government reserve for *+ Fort Vancouver” 
embraced a part of the same. From its position it is highly probable 
that the North Pacific Railroad from the Sound to the Columbia river, 
will pass through this place, and being considered the head of ship nav-; 
igation on the Columbia river, will no doubt make a city of great im- 
portance. 

MILLING TOWNS. 


At each of the great mills, aud at the coal mines, there are villages 
containing from 150 to 300 inhabitants. The improvements generally 
vests in the mill proprietors, and usually consists of a few handsome 
residences and comfortable houses for those engaged in and about the 
mills, a hotel, store, smith shops, &c., pertaining to the business, and 
forming cach a community within itself. There is regular communica-| 
tion by semi-weekly mail steamers, and also by independent lines. At 
all these points the hum of machinery is constant, the rattle of: 
lumber continuous throughout the day as it is taken from the mill di- 
rectly into the vessel, presenting a busy scene, in contrast to the deep 
solitude reigning in the great. forests before the advent of civilization, 
here. 





WASHINGTON TERRITORY 








50 


SNe 





U. 


S..CENSUS FOR 1870. 





N 


Counties. 


T[yAp 
jo toquin 


“Ss Sul 





OYBrK Gveniic tae esac os een A et 
COWHER ostis se ani 14d 
MCLIAVIN Se vics otha wee cg woke el 100 
APIA TIN asa rea ce Sen OAs Sek ee cas LO 
UCIT Cis eig@ia ac pataere ans, Snes ee emmaeemis baer 763) 
eH eT SOs oo6 coos ea re 308 
Wickitatt..cice oneal ee 
He Uo Pee ae a ae: ge) 
WANG iy seis Sine cise 28 
VRWIR icc ok eae ih oes nN eho 
MGA OIgS a es catawes Cocke retle ee 
PAGili@ gece 25 os ee ee als eee 
WRT OO rir vo aeie ce iy oe OZ 
SHnohomishe: iectesiven tc tes cel eee 
SKAMGNI8s 6.0% ooo oh ook eats as 40 
SHPONET Np sinc seis bare eee ee 
(PRYTREOWS oes ooo sk hk ne Oe 
Weahkiakitinesc..s5e0eswaecas 69 
WAH AG Wall aes cs heise 
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oS 
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142 
104 
108 


339 

61 
231 
370 
203 


204 
252 


21 
147 
629 

62 


1150 


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aes 
oS} Sof VUl o3yYyK 


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191 
2 
1153 
478 

184 
381 
666 
393 
92 
362 
1315 
126 
2999 
493 
19) 


jo JOQqUInN 


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606 
331 
56 
195 
433 
144 
30 
103 
842 
26 
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162 
128 


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85 3,081 2,384 $430,030) $372,999) 5,740 | 60,110 


14 730 121,005] 233,561} 1,425 | 16,883 . 
5 37 100,000} 102,829] 785 | 7,106 . 
52 394 111,285] 104,870] 1,086 | 16,534 
29 626 159,023} 197,245] 1,942 | 23,326 
108 1,270 397,140] 312,730 15,061 
4 329 25,157] 178,889} 250 | 8,307 
2 847 950,000] 100,000 50 : 
22 2,164 607,006] 395,383] 1,874 | 20,814 
39 889 395,850] 230,275] 2,005 | 51,598 4 
19 273 168,000} 28,000} 412 1,000 
80 739 184,955] 415,045] 384 2,365 


157 14it | 4,195 1,315) 24,333.24 


91 676 19,770] 118,900 807 2,850 
7 133 17,050} 141,389 
120 739 201,480 858 4} 33,222 


30 2,246 1,507 11,339,295] 844,355] 2.473 | 26,332 

51 270 2 58,245| 316,755 
81 5,302 1,318 987,192] 2,200,616] 6,815 | 354,877 
190 991 5 69,142] 108,015] 1,375 | 10,108 
4 329 192,050 183 2,520 





23,816 | i1,594 


NSA ON 








“ 


WEST OF THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS. 51 





WITHDRAWAL OF LAND. 


On the 19th of Octoher, 1870, the odd sections for twenty miles 
on each side of the surveyed line of the Northern Pacific Railroad was 
withdrawn from market, by orders from the Department at Washing- 
ton, in accordance with the provisions of the charter requiring such 
action of the Government upon the location of the route by the com- 
pany. This withdrawal extends from the Columbia river to the head 
of the Sound, and thence, parallel to and about eight miles distant from 
the eastern shore line-of the Sound, to a point near Seattle. ‘Two sur- 
eying parties of twenty men each are carefully retracing the prelimin- 
ary surveys.and definitely locating the route, and a third party have 
just passed the summit of the Cascades, through the Snoqualmie pass, | 
120 miles north of the Columbia river. 


EASTERN OREGON AND WASHINGTON. 


Phillip Ritz, an intelligent settler in the Walla Walla Valley, Wash- 
ington Territory, supplies the following facts in regard to the agricul- 
tural resources of the great Columbia Plains: 


“The gercat Columbia Plains, lying East of the Cascade Mountains and West 
of the Blue and Bitter Root ranges, and parallel with them, and parallel with and 
about 300 miles Eastof the Pacific Coast, constitute one immense grazing ground, 
stretching from mountain to mountain, about 150 miles in width, and from the 
‘Klamath Lake on the Southern boundary of Oregon in the South, far into British 
Columbia in the North, mere than 400 miles in length, covered with the finest 
grass in the world, well watered in many places, with rivers and streams making 
down from the heavily timbered mountains, through the plains, and drained by 


» the noble Columbia. 


| Walla-Walla City and Walla Walla Valley lie just North of the 46th parallel 
of latitude, and about in the centre of this country. This country is composed of 
a serics of valleys, which are drained by the Deschutes, the John Day’s, the Uma- 
tilla, the Walla-Walla, the Yakima, the Palouse, Spokane, and the Colville. 

The soil throughout this vast region presents a great uniformity of charactei, 
being chiefly a light loam, with more or Jess alkaliin all of it. Along and near 
the base of the mountains there arc more loam and clay, aud, consequently, more 
moisture retained in the soil than farther out in the valleys, although all the bot-, 
tom lands along the streams contain a large amount of vegetable matter, which, 
with the moisture arising from the streams, renders them extremely productive. 

One of the great peculiarities of this country is its mild climate. At this 
place, in latitude 46°, we seldom have snow before Christmas, and throughout the 
fall, for more than two months, we have the most delightful weather, generally 
frost at night, with bright, warm days, with the thermometer ranginy from 58° 
to 70°. G 

Singular phenomena, peculiar to this country, are the periodical warm breezes 
through the fall and winter, which spring up away downin the valleys of Califor- 
nia, break through the low passes of the Sierra Nevada range, on the head of the 
Sierra Nevada range, ou the head of the Sacramento, and, passing through by the 
‘Klamath Lakes, sweep along the base of the Blue Mountains, and warm up the 
jwhole atmosphere beyond the 49th parallel. Sucha breeze is now blowing. and 
‘at this writing, November 2d, 6 o’clock A. M., the thermometer stands at 73°. 
| This mild climate, with the abundance of the nutritious bunch grass every-, 
where, renders this pre-eminently a grazing country. Cattle and herses are sel. 


dom. fed here during the winter, eyen as far North as the 49th parallel, but graze 
all winter on this dry grass, which, through the dry fall, has become cured stand- 
ing, 80 that it is nearly equal to timothy‘hay ; hence, even up to the very summit! 
of the mountains, on the head-waters of the Columbia and Missouri, we can drive 
‘up cattle in the spring, from the range, equal to the best Eastern stall-fed beef;, ~ 
and many of them have not tasted a morsel of hay or straw. 

The atmosphere is salubrious and remarkably free from miasmatic impurities, | 


» 


e 


52 WASHINGTON TERRITORY 





In the summer the heat is rather intense during the day, but every evening brings | 
with it a refreshing coolness, which is perfectly delicious. | 
. Wheat. rye, oats and Spal Saad finely, without irrigation, in all our soils 
which contain clay and loam, and can be raised on the sandy portions of the val- | 
ley with irrigation. ‘Three years ago, when onr valley contained a population of | 
less than 6,000 souls, all told, we raised about 1,000,000 bushels of grain, 700,000 of | 
which was wheat. : | 

[ have seen large fields of wheat average 56 bushels.to the acre, and weigh (2°: 
pounds to the bushel; and have seeh fields which yielded 40 to 50 bushels per ; 
acre, from a “ volunteer”? crop, that is, produced the second year from grain shat 
tered out during harvest, sprouting during the fall, and growing ‘without even 
harrowing. 


spring. 
B We produce about 40 bushels of corn to the acre, of the large Yellow Dent va- | 
riety, and it ripens nicely by the first of September. 
The potato is perfectly at home here, growing large, fine aud mealy. I[ let a 
neighbor have niue pounds of the early Goodrich variety, last spring, from which | 
he raised 1,575. pounds. Sweet potatoes yield finely, but they are not so sweet as | 
further South. ‘Turnips, beets, cabbages, tomatoes, peas, beans, onions, are all 
raised with ease and in great abundance. 
s Although the country has been settled but a few- years, there are already a 
number of fine bearing orchards. I commenced here six years ago last spring on . 
ground that had never been fenced or plowed. After thoroughly plowing up 
about five acres of ground, [ planted it in orchard with small ycarling trees. This 
year I had 1,000 bushels of the finest peaches that I ever saw grown—fully equal 
to the best Delaware and New Jersey peaches—besides large quantities of apples, 
pears, plums, cherries, apricots, grapes, and every variety of small fruits. Fruits 
of all kinds wre perfect in every respect in this climate, particularly plums, the 
curculio having never been seen. I have !00 bearing plum trees; one Imperial 
Gage, two years ago, produced 400 pounds of delicious, ric) fruit, which brought 
8 cents per pound in gold ; last year it had about the same amount of fruit, which 
sold for 124% cents per pound, gold, many other trees, did hearly as well. There 
are a large number of orchards just coming into beating in this country. which 
will, of course, bring down the price of fruit. a 
- ‘the climate is so dry that we never see anything like mildew or rot on the, 
grape. {had grapes last summer ripen and have a fine flavor, which lay entirely | 
ov the ground. H 
Fencing on these plainsis an importantitem. We go to the mountains for all 
our fencing and lumber, from 8 to 20 miles. We ean buy good fir rails in the 
mountuins for $1 50 per hundred, with a good road to haul them out. ‘Tlicre has 
heen a large amonnt of fencing done in this valley by ditching, but it soon wears 
down. and farmers are now building good rail fences. ; | 
There is yet a large amount of good land to be had in the Columbia Basin, by 
guing back a little from the settlements, at $1 25 per acre. | 
The facilities for getting here from the East are, by Union Pacific road to Kel- 
ton, 80 miles West of Salt Lake, or Promontury Point, thence by daily stage, 500 
wiles. through ddako and Westsrn Oregon, to this place ; or by rail or Panama to 
San Francisco, thenve by steamship to Portland, Oregon, thence by steamboat by 
Columbia River to Wallula, and thence by stage, 30 miles, to this place.”’ . 


| 


{ 


Erpata :—Page 15, 4th paragraph, for “foggy 43 days,” read | 
4‘ foggy 14 days.” 





d 
We generally raise the variety known as ‘*Club,”? and sow itin the fall or 


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1906-7-10-11 





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